BRADFORD FULLER SWAN1907–1976With a heavy heart we write these lines in memory of Brad Swan, who with gentle irascibility brought wisdom and manners, good judgment and humor to us all. Brad was not a great mountaineer; his alpine accomplishments w...
Huantsán Norte, Loyacjirca, and Quitaraju, Cordillera Blanca. On July 5 three Oregonians, Dave Jensen, Dean Caldwell and I started to climb Nevado Huantsán (20,981 feet) from a base camp at the head of the Quebrada Shallap. Our porterless party sp...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED (PARTY SEPARATED), EXCEEDING ABILITIES Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Glencoe SpireOn July 20, 1994, a member of the Paul Petzoldt 70th anniversary climbing party heard cries for help coming from the south...
The Monitor and the MerrimacRon OlevskyTHERE ARE JUST two seasons for climbing in the canyon country of the desert, too hot and too cold. Often they are separated by a matter of minutes and one does not necessarily find them when one expects. Whil...
The Good, the Great, and the Awesome: The Top 40 High Sierra Rock Climbs. Peter Croft. Mammoth Lakes, CA: Maximus Press, 2002. 243 Pages. $30.00.How would you feel, having invested in a guidebook, reading in it this? “Above looms THE corner. If yo...
The Ohno Wall, Mount Moby DickDavid Peter JonesI first heard about the immense granite west face of Mount Moby Dick while talking with Bob Kruszyna in 1970 after his return from three weeks in the Battle Range of the southern Selkirks. He describe...
While walking back from Island Peak I saw what I thought was a series of ice runnels on the northern flank of Tsuro Ri, the shoulder on the northwest ridge of Ama Dablam, and decided I had to try them. I believe every mountaineer has demons that t...
Chomolhari (7,326m), alpine style ascent. On 7 May Roger Payne and I (both British) made a rapid alpine style ascent of the south ridge of Chomolhari (7,326m) in Yadong County. We had been aiming to climb a new route on the northwest ridge of the ...
Sierra Classics: The 100 Best Climbs in the High Sierra. John Moynier andClaude Fiddler. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1993. 316 pages. $25.00.When this new book first caught my eye on the shelf of a Yosemite climbing shop, my mouth watered in ...
Colorado, Animas Peak—On July 24 during the annual summer outing of the Colorado Mountain Club, a strong party of Elwyn Arps, William Davis (31), John Filsinger, and Gus Hallum (33), was formed to make the climb of the north face of Animas Peak, a...
It was cold and clear on the summit, without a breath of wind. Unlikely conditions, considering where we were. Laid out before us were the iconic peaks of the Nepal Himalaya. Mountains you dream about while growing up. Mountains I had already seen...
Mount King George. The decision last winter of the Canadian government to rename East Hubbard Mount Kennedy generated much climbing interest. It quickly became obvious that anyone wanting the first ascent would have to go earlier than the usual cl...
Mountain and Caving Film Festival, Huaraz. Acceding to a request of the Revista Peruana de Andinismo, the French Ministry of Youth and Sport sent 17 mountaineering and caving films to Huaraz. The famous French climber, René Desmaison, presented hi...
Chilean Patagonia, Various Ascents. On Monday, December 29, I crawled out of my cave at 5 a.m. I didn’t think the weather was terrific, so I went back to sleep. I woke up and started to the gear stash cave at 9 a.m. I organized things and at noon ...
Alberta and the Silver Ice-AxeJOHN C. OBERLIN“WE CAME from Japan so far called by this charming great mountain.” The paper was carefully folded and tucked in a recently emptied tin can to be placed in the hurriedly constructed cairn on the summit...
Summary of activity. [Note: this summary supplements individual reports, mostly of bigger routes, below—Ed.] Mountaineering activity appears to be in slight decline in Washington. In recent years the Park Service has been reporting fewer climbers ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Athabasca, North RidgeOn August 21, Jeff (age unknown) and Andrew (33) were ascending the North Ridge (III 5.5) of Mount Athabasca. After crossing the North Glacier they ascended a short snow/ice gu...
Bella Coola area, Coast Range. For the first time we finally beat the brush-filled valleys of the Bella Coola area by finding a cheap airplane. Although still committed to drive a great deal of the dirt road from Williams Lake to the takeoff point...
Pico de la Fortuna, Ascent, and Cerro Santa Vera Cruz, Ascent and Discovery. The Santa Vera Cruz is the smallest range in Bolivia. With an extension of only 20 kilometers between the villages of Huanacota on the north and Ichoco on the south, thes...
Gangstan, 1977. Shigeo Suzuki led a four-man Japanese expedition which climbed Gangstan (20,215 feet). From Manali they traveled for three days up the Billing Nala to Base Camp at 13,775 feet. Advanced Base was established on September 16 at the t...