Great Trango TowerXaver Bongard, Club Alpin Suisse*All climbers who pass urdokas,an obligatory halt on the road to the giants K2, Gasherbrum I and II and Broad Peak, admire the Trango Towers that crown the other side of the immense Baltoro Glacier...
1951-841985GeographicalDistrictsNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta1855740716033British Columbia179723618223Yukon Territory202251000Ontario18436102Quebec11228214East Arctic6218000West...
FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST Oregon, Mount Hood, South SideAfter successfully ascending South Side on July 23, Zach Usadi-Henrickson (20) slipped on a steep section of snow roughly below the “Mazama Chute” as he was descending. He was unable...
Phabrang South. Tohichi Ohtake led the Tokyo Denki University expedition. After crossing the Rohtang Pass by bus, they reached Thirot Nalla of Lahul via Keron on September 12. After going through the villages of Chokang, Chhogzing, Guhari and Nawi...
Great Expedition Hoaxes. David Roberts. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1982. 182 pages, 14 black and white photographs, 8 maps, bibliographies. $12.95.Dave Roberts has here produced another one of his very readable books. He has chosen what he ...
South summit of North Tower of Paine, Maury the Jewish Tapeworm; Central Tower of Paine, Bonington-Whillans Route first free ascent; South Tower of Paine, Andrea Oglioni. This was a season of prolific activity in Patagonia, in both the Torres ...
During late December 2009 and early January 2010, Graham Rowbotham and I completed five new routes on the exotic limestone of the Western Hajar. Starting on the southwest face of Jabal Kawr near M’Seeb hamlet, we climbed an old watercourse on the ...
HAND-HOLDS BROKE OFF-FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Direct Jensen RidgeOn August 5 about 1430, Exum Guide Mark Newcomb (39) fell about 80 feet when his hand-holds broke off while ascending the Direct Jensen Ridge route of Symmetry...
The Central Tower of PaineA singular educationby Steve SchneiderMy first view of Patagonia was from 30,000 feet. My partner, Jim Surette, and I jostled for window space in the jetliner. Below us, Cerro Torre and her satellite summits stood in full...
Saint Exupery, Tical, and other ascents. This year’s seven-week trip to Patagonia didn’t start well. I flew out of London on New Year’s Day while everyone else was ice skating in Fontainebleau. After four weeks of high winds, long hikes, tendoniti...
Mt. Wrangell Project. (The following is an excerpt from a report by Philip C. Bettler, leader of the 1954 project.—Editor.)The Mt. Wrangell high-altitude laboratory was reoccupied during the summer of 1954 and operated for the period from June 28t...
Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), west face, Manos al Cielo. My friend Cheyne Lempe had never been to Patagonia. He’d never set foot on a glacier or climbed a new route. January 2012 was full of new experiences for Cheyne.Just a few days after our arriva...
Sangemar Mar, Southwest Face Attempt. Our Belgian expedition to Sangemar Mar (“The Shining Mountain”) had as members, Jean-Claude LeGros, Marcel Charlier, Bertrand Borrey, Marc Debaecke, Vincent Dewaele, Albert Decremer, André Menu, Jean-Claude Co...
In November Michal Rosecky, Tomas Sobotka, and I visited Wadi Rum. We were interested in this area because we come from the Czech Republic, where most rock climbing is on sandstone. We’ve put up many new routes in our country and wanted to make ...
Cerro Juriques. I ascended Juriques volcano (5710 meters, 18,733 feet) in December 1972, from a camp located at 14,100 feet in the higher Cajón valley, to the south of the peak; it lies on the Chilean-Bolivian border east of San Pedro de Atacama. ...
High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Everest and Other Unforgiving Places. David Breashears. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1999. 16 color photos. 309 pages. $26.00.It would be a great injustice for High Exposure to be regarded in any potential r...
FALL ON ROCK – BELAY FAILURE (UNSECURED ROPE, DISTRACTION), NO HELMETCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Five Open BooksOn August 11, my brothers, Eric (26) and Thayne (19), and I, Grace Rich (31), were visiting Yosemite and we decided to go climbing. Er...
Everest Attempt via Hornbein Couloir and Tragedy. L’Esprit d’Equipe had post-monsoon permits for the Great and Hornbein Couloirs on the north face of Everest. We concentrated on the Hornbein Couloir so that Benoit Chamoux might try a ski descent f...
CHARLES GRANVILLE BRUCE1866–1939The death in London last July at the age of seventy-three of Brigadier-General The Hon. C. G. Bruce takes away another of the outstanding figures of our day in the alpine world. General Bruce had a great love for th...
El Capitan, The Shield, Rescue and Judicial Precedent. On May 16, Austrians Christian Zenz and Christian Wassertheurer requested a rescue from The Shield on El Capitan that eventually involved 38 park personnel and two helicopters. In the debriefi...