South Howser Tower, The Minaret, Retinal Circus. In early August Aaron Martin from Mammoth Lakes, California, and I, from Moab, Utah, visited the Howser Spires in the Bugaboos. Before I arrived, Aaron had a huge solo day linking four major formati...
Le Chemineau de la Montagne, by Jacques Dieterlein. 16 mo., pp. 272, with 16 illustrations. Paris: Flammarion, 1938. Price 22 fr. 50.Mountaineers everywhere are acquainted with the extraordinary ski courses made by Léon Zwingelstein in 1933 and 19...
Hooker’s North Face Free-ClimbedGalen A. RowellMy fascination with the north face of Mount Hooker dates back to 1964.1 was climbing in Yosemite that fall while Royal Robbins was preparing to attempt the North America Wall of El Capitan. A bunch of...
On July 17, with the support of the American Alpine Club and the McNeill-Nott Award, Brianna Hartzell, Eric Dalzell, Mike Pond, and I made our way to the Bella Coola Valley. Our objective was the unclimbed east ridge of Mt. Desire, 15 miles sou...
JIM HINKHOUSE 1943-1995Jimmy “Jim” Dean Hinkhouse died with climbing companions Scott Hall and Tom Downey during a storm at Windy Corner on Denali, May 23, 1995.Jim was born and raised in Scappoose, Oregon, and graduated from the University of Ore...
MEXICOFALL ON ROCK, FREE-SOLO CLIMBING, El Potrero Chico, The Scariest Ride in the Park On November 24, Jimmy Rae Forester (43) fell to his death while free-soloing The Scariest Ride in the Park (5.9). He had failed to return to camp and was found...
Rondoy, by David Wall. London: John Murray 1965. 176 pages, 35 illustrations, 3 maps, biographic notes and glossary. Price 30s.In any comprehensive collection of mountaineering books the section devoted to the Andes will be relatively sparse. This...
Staunings Alps, Dansketinde, first ascents of south and southwest ridges. On July 15, Hamish Irvine, Colwyn Jones (Medical Officer), Jonathan Preston, and myself (leader), forming the Scottish Mountaineering Club East Greenland Expedition, were fl...
Cordillera RauraJohn RickerThe following is a chapter from a guidebook in preparation on the Peruvian Andes. Maps and photographs are used especially to establish the positions of mountain features and to give local place names on Quechua and Span...
In October John Kelley and I headed back to Mt. Yukla to climb the North Couloir and check out an appealing smear that intersects that route at two-thirds height. John, Ben Trocki, and I had climbed the North Couloir the previous September, but th...
Snow on the Hills, by Frank S. Smythe. Large 4to., 119 pp., 47 illustrations. London, 1946: A. & C. Black. Price, 25/-.Another book of mountain photographs by Smythe, his seventh. It consists of two essays, “The Beauty of Snow” and “The Photog...
Tirich Mir. The Ichikawa Mountaineering Association Expedition was composed of Kazuyoshi Takahashi, Sadamasa Takahashi, Tatsuo Arioka, Kohji Komatsu, Masazumi Nishina, Kenji Takano, Masaaki Kondo, Fusayoshi Maeda, Hiroshi Sekiya, Toshio Aoki and Y...
1951–20012002Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsTotal PersonsNumber of AccidentsTotal Persons InvolvedDeathsInvolvedDeathsCanadaAlberta44912898219216British Columbia2761066131728Yukon Territory332673102Ontario37967000Quebec27758122East Arcti...
Great Trango TowerXaver Bongard, Club Alpin Suisse*All climbers who pass urdokas,an obligatory halt on the road to the giants K2, Gasherbrum I and II and Broad Peak, admire the Trango Towers that crown the other side of the immense Baltoro Glacier...
1951-841985GeographicalDistrictsNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta1855740716033British Columbia179723618223Yukon Territory202251000Ontario18436102Quebec11228214East Arctic6218000West...
FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST Oregon, Mount Hood, South SideAfter successfully ascending South Side on July 23, Zach Usadi-Henrickson (20) slipped on a steep section of snow roughly below the “Mazama Chute” as he was descending. He was unable...
Phabrang South. Tohichi Ohtake led the Tokyo Denki University expedition. After crossing the Rohtang Pass by bus, they reached Thirot Nalla of Lahul via Keron on September 12. After going through the villages of Chokang, Chhogzing, Guhari and Nawi...
Great Expedition Hoaxes. David Roberts. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1982. 182 pages, 14 black and white photographs, 8 maps, bibliographies. $12.95.Dave Roberts has here produced another one of his very readable books. He has chosen what he ...
South summit of North Tower of Paine, Maury the Jewish Tapeworm; Central Tower of Paine, Bonington-Whillans Route first free ascent; South Tower of Paine, Andrea Oglioni. This was a season of prolific activity in Patagonia, in both the Torres ...
During late December 2009 and early January 2010, Graham Rowbotham and I completed five new routes on the exotic limestone of the Western Hajar. Starting on the southwest face of Jabal Kawr near M’Seeb hamlet, we climbed an old watercourse on the ...