I was in Patagonia from November 14 to December 12, 1996. After 17 days of the worst Patagonian weather I have yet seen, we broke through on December 2, when Jim Donini and I attempted the first ascent of the west ridge of Inominata. We thought th...
Appalachian Mountains. On 25 May 1947, in the Cumberland Plateau region of Tennessee, an accident occurred to a member of a rock-climbing group from Vanderbilt University. Five of the seven active participants had had previous experience of rock c...
Hooker & Brown. Jerry Auld. Brindle & Glass, 2009. 240 pages. Paperback. $19.95 (Canadian).So few mountaineering novels exist that it feels wrong to make generalizations from such a small sampling. Nonetheless, Hooker & Brown is more a...
The Mazamas. Club climbing activity in 1992 under the chairmanship of Jan Schmidt included 253 scheduled summer and 14 winter climbs. However, the usual unfavorable Northwest weather allowed only one winter climb to succeed. The Basic Climbing Sch...
Geographical Districts1951-19961997Number of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta35810477525867British Columbia2531005537326Yukon Territory332673000Ontario33861000Quebec27758214East Arct...
Mount Everest, first free ascent of the Second Step, previously unreported. In AAJ 2000, pp. 378-9, Conrad Anker reported on his unsuccessful attempt to free climb the Second Step on Everest’s Northeast Ridge. He rated the pitch 5.10 AO, concludin...
Heroic Climbs, Chris Bonington, general editor. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington. 1994. 224 pages. $32.00.Heroic Climbs is an anthology of forty narratives and photographs by climbers (“the foremost mountaineers of our times”), organized by m...
San Rafael Swell, Mudstrosity. In March Strappo Hughes and I climbed the Mudstrosity (350', V- A3+). This tower is in the southern San Rafael Swell, located 10 miles northwest of Factory Butte (the summit of which provides a wild view of the whole...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA-CAN.Injured USA-CAN.Killed USA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942—256—231—019—2196047—464—1237—819—4...
Annapurna South. A Korean expedition climbed Annapurna South (7273 meters, 23,862 feet) via the northeast face and the north ridge. They had five high camps. On October 25 Han Sang Kook, leader, Kim Chang Sun, Won Jang Tae and Pinju Sherpa reached...
Northwest Face of Denali’s West ButtressThomas Walter, UnaffiliatedYEARS AGO, I FIRST BECAME aware of the face, the perfect hard Denali route: no hanging ice above, too steep and windswept to collect snow and with easy access to the West Buttress ...
Cholong Kangri (6,182m), first ascent. On September 30, 2007,John Deans (U.K.), Greg Vernovage (U.S.), Kurt Wedberg (U.S.), and I summited an unclimbed Tibetan peak located by GPS at N 28°82, E 90°30. Leaving base camp at 3:30 a.m. we ascended fro...
Cho Oyu. The Indian expedition led by Keki F. Bunshaw made the second ascent of Cho Oyu on May 15 when Sherpas Pasang Dawa Lama and Sonam Gyalzen reached the 26,867-foot summit. This was the second time that Pasang Dawa, now in his late forties, h...
Fitz Roy. In a letter to Toncek Arko, Solvenes Bogdan Bišcak, Rado Fabjan and Matevž Lenarcic told of an ascent they made when they first arrived in the region. It would seem that they had not joined the rest of the Slovene expedition to Cerro Tor...
HACEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 1115 on June 13, Frank Brettholle (51), a member of the “Beer Run” expedition, was found unconscious by his team mates in his tent at the 17,200-foot high camp on Denali’s West Buttress route. His team m...
Memorial to Dr. Paccard At the International Congress of Alpinism, held in Chamonix during August, 1932, there was unveiled a bronze portrait medallion of Dr. Michel Gabriel Paccard, who, in company with Jacques Balmat, made the first ascent ...
Puscanturpa Norte, Via Macanacota, New Route. On August 1, the French climbers Fréderic Paurrage, Alban Faure, and Guillaume Arrisani climbed the northwest face of Puscanturpa Norte (5652m) by a new route. The route begins a few meters to the left...
Paul Stern Land, five first ascents. In May and June Geoff Bonney, my wife Sandy Gregson, and I visited Paul Stern Land. We have all made numerous trips to Greenland and consider ourselves true veterans of the Arctic, with combined ages of 191 yea...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow GlacierOn the afternoon of August 8, 1986, two climbers were descending the Bow Glacier above the Bow Hut. They were roped 15 meters apart, traveling in a well-beaten track within sigh...
Kangchenjunga South Attempt. The leader of three Belgians and a Nepalese on the southwest face of Kangchenjunga, Alain Hubert, reached 8000 meters on October 14 in a solo bid for the summit of Kangchenjunga South. He was forced to bivouac there by...