Peak 10,522', Ascent. On May 29, Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew me into the upper Chisana Glacier at around 8,300 feet on the southeast side of this mountain. I was climbing alone since I had been unable to locate a climbing partner. In e...

Fairweather, Southeast Buttress, 1986. On June 27, 1986, Tad Pfeffer, Linda Sugiyama and I were flown by Mike Ivers to a camp on the upper Fairweather Glacier at 6000 feet. We benefited from the new rules under which airplane landings appear to be...

Hiunchuli, Southeast Face. The second ascent of this mountain, south of Annapurna, was accomplished by our expedition on October 8. Since the first ascent by a team of U.S. Peace Corps volunteers led by Craig Anderson in 1971, Hiunchuli had withst...

Tellot Glacier, Various Activity and New Routes. Dead. Not even a flicker when you turn it on. It was time to go home—not the planned time, not the scheduled time, but nonetheless, it was time.Mike Spagnut, Mark Hartley, and I were flown to Plumme...

Cerro Torre Tragedy. A French climber, Pierre Paul Farges, who was attempting a solo climb of Cerro Torre in March, failed well short of his goal. His body was found deep in a crevasse on the glacier approach.Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche

Jangyaraju, Cordillera Blanca. On July 18 Steve Dzuranin, Ivan Jirak, and Joseph Muck, of the Explorers Club of Pittsburgh, made the first ascent of Jangyaraju (18,655 feet), which lies northwest of Ocshapalca and Ranrapalca. Base camp was on a sm...

Fitz Roy, Argentine Route on Southeast Buttress. Austrians Rudi Mayr and Robert Purtscheller repeated the Argentine route on Fitz Roy a few days after Galen Rowell, from November 5 to 18. They noted, “We had good weather, much ice in the cracks. F...

Kangchenjunga, North Face Attempt. Terry Tremble, Dr. Carol Brand-Maher and I attempted to climb the north face of Kangchenjunga. Dr. Brand-Maher had no prior experience in mountaineering. The walk-in from Hille to Pang Pema with 33 porters took 1...

Huayna Potosi, West Face, 1990. Argentines Horacio and Carolina Godö, Marcelo Pagani and Spaniard Alvaro Enriquez climbed a new route on the right side of the west face of Huayna Potosi, which rose 1000 meters with a maximum angle of 80°. Both of ...

White Mountains Winter Traverse. In February 1974 Dave Sharp, George Miller, Jay Jensen and I made the first winter traverse of the crest of the California White Mountains. The trip was mostly on skis, took 16 days, and was at an average elevation...

Sawtooth Range. The Iowa Mountaineers, 1960 Summer Camp was located on the southwest shore of Big Redfish Lake. The 76 climbers concentrated on the peaks flanking or near Redfish Creek. All of the major peaks and pinnacles in this immediate area w...

Latok I Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Remy Martin, Roger Laot and me. We hoped to climb the Lowe route on Latok I. It took us seven days from Dassu to reach Base Camp on the Choktoi Glacier on July 11. We fixed rope on the first 600 mete...

Scottish Expedition to South Greenland. A University of St. Andrews party visited the mountains between Tasermiut and Ilua fjords at 60° N. During a period of eight weeks a total of 45 peaks were either climbed or attempted, 40 first ascents were ...

Tuttle Creek, Clean Willy’s Escape. Alan Roberts and I climbed this route in June. It lies on the Keystone Wall above Tuttle Creek’s south fork. It follows the prominent crack and chimney system just right of the Locksmith’s Route (Beckey-Roberts)...

Kang Karpo (Meili) Attempt. Our expedition again attempted Kang Karpo, as it is known in the region, or Meili, as the Chinese call it. It was jointly organized by the Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto, the Chinese Mountaineering Associations of Beijin...

California, Yosemite (1)—On May 27, 1956 Dr. Robert Franklin Johnson (28) was killed instantly in a sheer fall from Castle Cliff east of the Lost Arrow. He had climbed up Indian Canyon where there is no trail to the rim of the canyon. He was alone...

Peak 10,105, Second Ascent. This important peak, (10,105 feet) rises immediately east of the Kahiltna Glacier and is the highest point south of Mount Hunter. Its impressive west ridge is obviously the safest route to the summit as the east and sou...

Soviet Climbing in the Cascades. After their successful return from Alaska the Soviet team enjoyed a couple of days of “R&R” in Seattle. Then their attention turned to the mountains of the Cascade Range. During the weekend of June 11 and 12, S...

Darban Zom Attempt, Hindu Kush. The members of our expedition to Darban Zom (7110 meters, 23,327 feet) were Jürgen Diederichs, Heiki Irmisch and I as leader. We approached on the traditional way up the Udren and Darban Glaciers and got to Base Cam...

Santander, Southeast Face, and Other Peaks, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, 1974. Between January 14 and February 5, 1974, a 17-man Royal Air Force expedition led by Wing Commander N.M. Ridley was active in the western and northern sections of this ...