FALL ON ROCK, FOOTHOLD BROKE-FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSAlberta, Mount John Laurie (Yamnuska)On September 29, two experienced climbers were ascending the Redshirt route on Yamnuska (II, 5.7). On the fourth pitch, leader I.H. (51) traversed left, clipped...
Peak 8933', Ascent. On April 23, six of us (Mimi Bourquin, Paul Claus, Ruedi Homberger, Cristine Legnet, Reto Reutsch, and myself) flew from Ultima Thule Lodge to an unnamed glacier to the north and east of P8933' at around 6,700 feet. We skied do...
Mount Wade. In July Bruce Tickell and I climbed Mount Wade (Boundary Peak 173; 2426 meters, 7960 feet), which is 50 miles east of Yakutat, overlooking Nunatak Fjord. We ascended the East Nunatak Glacier from the beach and left the glacier five mil...
James Goodwin, 1910 – 2011Jim Goodwin died on April 14 in Lake Placid. To the rock and ice climbing community, he was a pioneer. But to those who knew him, especially the hundreds who joined him as children to hike Adirondack trails, Jimmy Goodwin...
Nilgiri South Attempt. A three-man Japanese party failed to climb a new route on Nilgiri South (6838 meters, 22,435 feet), the southwest ridge. The leader was hit by a falling rock, and had to return to Base Camp. One other member had altitude sic...
Mt. Tiedemann, New Route. From August 4-7, Britons Simon Richardson and Doré Green made the first ascent of the South Pillar (VI 5.10+ WI3, 1400m) of Mount Tiedemann (3848m). A full account of their twenty-nine pitch route and an overview of the c...
Mt. Russell, Nelson-Pearson. Surprisingly, before this summer there were no reports of routes on Russell’s impressive north face, save a Beckey route on the far right side. On August 17 Lindsey Pearson and I approached the face from Cleaver Col. W...
Murallón, Northeast Face. Casimiro Ferrari, Paolo Vitale and Carlo Adi climbed Murallón (2810 meters, 9212 feet) by its frightful northeast face. Ferrari, who has climbed Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, considers this new route the most difficult yet do...
Palcaraju West, Cordillera Blanca. On July 28 César Morales Arnao, Alberto Ruibal, and A. Jamanca, of the Club Andinista Cordillera Blanca, made a new route on Palcaraju in the course of which they climbed a new 19,685-foot summit.
Cerro Arenas, East Face of East Summit. On November 30 Eric Soulié and I made the first ascent of the east face of the east summit of Cerro Arenas above the Cajón del Maipo. We lacked technical equipment to do the direttissima.Yves Astier, Club Al...
Cochamo, Various Ascents. It was reported that British and American climbers have begun developing an area of granite big walls in the Patagonian Andes east of Puerto Montt in a valley 15 miles from the town of Cochamo. Briton Crispin Waddy discov...
Kangchenjunga. On October 10, Australians Michael Groom and John Coulton went to the summit of Kangchenjunga by the southwest face in semi-alpine-style without Sherpas and artificial oxygen and with four bivouacs. However, on the descent their vis...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn June 12, 1984, Paul Ormsby (23) and Michael Doroff (24) hiked to the base of MacGregor Slab intending only to hike up and around the backside of the mountain to t...
Everest, by La Fondation Suisse pour Explorations Alpines. 198 pages, including 136 pages of black and white photographs, 8 of color photographs, and 16 pages of introduction by Othmar Gurtner. Geneva: Jeheber, 1953.This picture book of the Swiss ...
Huayna Potosí, East Face, 1990. Juan Carlos Vázquez, Enrique Rey. Julian Hevia and I made a new route on the east face of Huayna Potosí on July 19, 1990. Our route ascended between the normal route and that of the French. It had a rise of 300 mete...
German Caucasus Expedition, 1936. The German expedition entered the central Caucasus by way of the Baksan Valley and Adyl Su to the Shcheldi Valley where camp was made on the side moraine of a glacier.Bshedykhtau was traversed July 18th-21st. The ...
Coyote Cliffs. These cliffs are in Coyote Creek canyon about three miles above its junction with Bishop Creek, near Route #168. The cliffs have long been avoided by climbers because a group of locals, minds psychochemically dimmed, reported that t...
Other Yosemite Ascents. One of the more remarkable climbs of the year was the second ascend of the sheer 2900-foot high face of El Capitan. (For an account of the first ascent, see A.A.J., 1959, 11:2, pp. 184-189.) This was made in the comparative...
AVALANCHE, INADEQUATE PREPARATION AND ROUTE SELECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AndromedaThe morning of September 4, 1990, dawned with pristine clarity in the Columbia Icefields area. R.D. and J.E., both of Salt Lake City, Utah, had just arri...
P 5753, Trango Towers. A Japanese expedition led by Reiji Nonaka ascended P 5753 (18,875 feet). Also on the expedition were the leader’s wife Yukiko, Toshikazu Fujita, Takao Sasaki and Masahiro Oto. They climbed 63 pitches on the east face and sou...