Churen Himal. An expedition of Tokyo University was led by Dr. Makoto Takahashi. They attempted both the east and west peaks of Churen Himal (both peaks 24,184 feet). Camp V on the east ridge was set up on May 10 at 20,700 feet and Camp V on the w...

FALL INTO CREVASSE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING Washington, Mount RainierOn August 8, 1987, Larry Weathur (42) was climbing on a rope of four team members at the 2900-meter level of the Emmons Glacier, just below Camp Schurman. Ra...

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Dobbs Hartshorne and I approached the range in July 1972 in three days via San Sebastián from the southwest to Lago Naboba, the site of our Base Camp. This route is superior to the usual, southeast approach, via Atanq...

Cerro San Juan, 1991. This high peak lies northwest of Cerro Alma Negra, in the Mercedario group. Silvia Tejada, Humberto Campodónico, Luis Gómez, Mauricio Manzi, Manuel Maurín, Iván Nobre and Fabián Olivieri from the city of San Juan placed camp ...

FALL ON ICE, COMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn September 24, 1989, John Ashby (38) was attempting an unroped solo ascent of thinly iced Alexander’s Chimney (5.5) on the East Face of Longs Peak...

Colorado—Red Rocks Park, Ship Rock: On October 10, 1953, Ronald Hedge (19) attempted to climb the steep face of Ship Rock in Red Rocks Park. When he was up about 65 feet, he lost his footing and fell to his death on the rocks below.Source: Newspap...

Mountain of the Sun, West Face, “Tao of Light,” Zion National Park. Paul Turecki and I climbed a new big-wall route on the 2000-foot unclimbed west face of the Mountain of the Sun in the main Zion Canyon. Our route took the crack line on the edge ...

Colorado, Mt. Thorodin. On 10 June Joseph Willoughby (20) and Garris Flebbe, both moderately experienced climbers, saw a storm approaching while on a technical climb of the West Face of Mt. Thorodin and began their retreat. Willoughby was rappelli...

FALL ON ROCK, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Grotto CanyonOn the evening of August 8,1993, Bow Valley Ambulance in Canmore was called about a climbing accident in Grotto Canyon. They notified Kananaskis Central District, who dispatched rangers t...

Nanda Devi, attempt and tragedy. A 16-member team led by Mohammed Mamun Rashid had major plans to climb the 7434m East Peak and traverse to the Main summit. Approaching during the autumn via the usual route from the east, they had set up base camp...

Mamostong Kangri and P 6448. A 31-member team of the Border Security Force was led by S.C. Negi. The roadhead at Sasoma was reached on July 18. Base Camp at Skyangpoche beyond Saser Nala, Camp I on the moraine and Advance Base were set up at 4575,...

CHARLES BOARDMAN NEWHALL1902-1984Charles B. Newhall was bom in Lynn, Massachusetts on June 8, 1902, a direct descendant of Thomas Newhall, who was bom in Lynn in 1630. He grew up in Lynn, graduating from the Lynn Classical High School in 1919 and ...

Alpine Tragedy, by Charles Gos. Translated from the French by Malcolm Barnes. 282 pages, illustrations. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1948. Price, $6.00.Malcolm Barnes’ spirited translation of Charles Gos’ story of fatal mountain climbing acc...

STEVEN GEOFFREY SCHWARTZ 1961-1986The central Ohio climbing community was saddened by Steve’s death during a solo ascent of the north face of Les Courtes in the Mont Blanc Range on March 16, 1986. His demise ended a potential life-time of commitme...

Badal Wall, new route to shoulder; Nafees’ Cap, first ascent; Iqbal’s Wall, new route. After failed attempts on three new routes, the team of Nicolas and Olivier Favresse (Belgium), Adam Pustelnik (Poland), and Sean Villanueva (Belgium) succeeded ...

Stairway and Aries Pks. 1944 first ascents by Mr. and Mrs. D. Measuroll, J. M. Thorington, E. Feus, Jr. From Howse Pass, camp was established at timberline in the N. fork of Ebon creek, this stream being the true source of Blaeberry River. Stairwa...

RAPPEL ERROR—CLIPPED TO ONE ROPE, FALL ON ROCKOregon, Smith Rock State ParkOn February 4, John Elgin (24) fell 60 feet after failing to rig his rappel properly. All that is known is that another climber shouted to Elgin to recheck his rig as he pr...

Zion, Various New Route Activity. In early May, 2000, I soloed a six-pitch variation between Wind, Sand, and Stars and The Futura. The variation shares the first pitch of Wind, Sand, and Stars and links up with The Futura at the top of that route’...

Mount Hunter, West Ridge via the Northwest Spur. On the evening of June 1 Boudewijn, Ronald Binnebösz, Ton Hoenevelt, Frans Kerren, Arie Korving and I left our camp on the Kahiltna Glacier to climb to the west ridge via the northwest spur which jo...

Drohmo south pillar, major variation; Drohmo East, first ascent; Pathibhara Chuli, southwest face; Kirat Chuli west face and Chang Himal north face, attempts. The Slovenian Alpine Association organized an expedition to the Kangchenjunga region, si...