Wyoming RockiesDevils Tower. Without the permission usually required for an ascent of a National Monument, the summit of Devils Tower was gained by parachute on October 1st on a wager by George Hopkins, a former instructor of the R. A. F. Unfortun...
Shayaz, Eastern Hindu Kush. Our expedition was composed of Yoshihisa Tagawa, leader, Jiro Tomonaga, Wataru Kawakami and me (f). We made the first ascent of Shayaz (6050 meters, 19,849 feet), which lies west of the Yarkhun River. From the roadhead ...
Mount McKinley. The main summit of Mount McKinley was reached by members of various expeditions. No new routes were made, but an international group, Sepp Weber, an Austrian living in Alaska, Jim Fraser, Jerry Bernas and Rudi Schmid, Americans, Ka...
STRANDED, DARKNESS, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Weeping WallOn March 7 at 2200, Jasper wardens received a report of stranded ice climbers on the Weeping Wall. A party of two climbers was stuck 60 meters above the ground. They had started...
Kamet Ascent and Tragedy. A Gorkha Regiment team of the Indian Army, led by Major H.S. Sahi, climbed the Normal Route of Kamet (7756 meters) via Meade’s Col. The expedition consisted of 21 members. Base Camp was established on August 21 but they w...
Flying Buttress, West Lone Peak Basin. On September 15 Fred Beckey, Dan Davis and I made the first ascent of the buttress to the north of the main peak. Fred led the first pitch, which consisted of a difficult start on microscopic holds; the top p...
Iowa Mountaineers. Club membership has grown to 1,400 after another very active year. Over 2,500 people participated in one of the many instructional courses, mountaineering camps, or foreign expeditions.Under Jim Ebert’s instruction over 492 memb...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Members of Club Campo Abierto again climbed in the Sierra with a German group under the leadership of Franz Kröll. The peaks climbed were: Tairona by 6 Germans, Kröll, S. Gaviria, L. Salomons, H. Frank; Guardián by F....
Valle Lapataia. In January we climbed at the head of the Valle Lapataia, ascended the three peaks two to three miles southwest of the Cerro Dalla Vedova between the Valle Lapataia and the Glaciar Stoppani and another peak near the head of the big ...
Pucaranra, West Face Attempt. We were a month in the Quebrada Cojup, but for the first three weeks the weather was bad. We were Esther Martín, Chiqui González-Betes, Carlos Gallego and I. On August 17 Gallego and I opened a new route to the right ...
LAWRENCE E. NIELSEN1917-1992Lawrence E. Nielsen was born and raised on a cattle and wheat ranch near Pilot Rock Oregon. He was educated at Pacific University, Washington State University and Cornell University, from which he received a Ph.D. in ch...
An American Alpine Club party consisting of William S. Ladd, Allen Carpé and Terris Moore, accompanied by Andy Taylor, left Juneau on April 4th to attempt Mount Fairweather. Heavy storms prevented a landing at Sea Otter Bight, as had been done in ...
Nevado Parón, Huandoy Oeste and Other Peaks. Our expedition was made up of Boštjan Kekec, Franc Langerholc, Željko Perko, Stane Stanovnik, Damjan Vidmar and me as leader. On May 30 Langerholc, Stanovnik and I climbed the middle of the 1300-foot-hi...
YearTotal Number of Accidents ReportedNumber of Deaths194715111948281519491791950308195118419523514195325121954318195534619564610195745171958321119594522196047(4)*23 (1)** Numbers in parenthesis refer to number of rescuers injured or killed–not in...
Half Dome-Mt. Watkins-El Capitan Blitz. In October Dean Potter and I became the first to climb three Grade VI Yosemite walls within 24 hours. We started on Half Dome’s 2,000-foot Northwest Face. Approaching via the Death Slabs we arrived at the ba...
DISLODGED ROCK—FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVEREDPennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, Mount MinsiOn the afternoon of March 26, Daniel O’Malley, Tim Feitzinger, and Jeff Sukenick decided to take advantage of the nice weather to go roc...
Atunmontepuncu. After our Mexican expedition, consisting of Ubaldo Martinez, Agustím Tagle, Santos Castro, Jorge Rivera, Guillermo Carrasco, Felipe García and me, failed to reach our objective of Huascarán because of bad weather, I returned alone ...
P 10,206, P 8715 and P 8110. Jim Bouchard and I were flown to an alpine tarn north of the Eldridge Glacier terminus and hiked up to make the first ascents of two prominent peaks between the Eldridge and Buckskin Glaciers. (Both peaks appear on McK...
Oregon, Salmonberry Canyon. On October 6th, Owen Fowler died of a heart attack while hunting. Upon arrival the Oregon State Police determined that the terrain was too rugged for them to attempt removal of the body. On October 7th, MRSCO was reques...
FALL ON ICEMinnesota, Devil Track River GorgeOn January 18, 1981, Brian McKinley and Peter Monkkonen, both experienced on ice, attempted a third ascent of Nightfall, a 200-foot, two-pitch ice climb in northern Minnesota. Both had done the climb pr...