Steve House and I climbed the Infinite Spur on June 9 and 10. We carried little in the way of gear, because we are lazy and could not be bothered carrying tents and sleeping bags. This allowed and forced us to move at a steady pace. Our speed was ...
I was suspended in the shade, clenching my upper ice tool with both hands. Behind me, the north face of Cerro Torre beamed in the sun. Deep down below me, the vast icecap met the fjords of Chile, far, far away. The ice vein that wed followed up th...
Newly Opened Peaks in the Nepal Himalaya. The Ministry of Tourism has opened 19 of the less popular Expeditions Peaks to mark the celebration of Visit Nepal Year 1998. These peaks are free of charge in 1998 and 1999, though a Sirdar and permission...
Johannesburg, Northeast Face, Winter Ascent, North Cascades. In mid February Josh Lieberman and I took advantage of perfect weather and low snow cover to drive 18 miles up the Cascade River road. We walked the last four miles up the road. Johannes...
This year again we are extremely grateful to those friends who have done so much to help us to put this section together. Without their help it could not exist. We can not thank all those who have helped but do wish to express our gratitude in par...
Ambush Peak, Dike Route. Ambush Peak’s main face rises from a low angle apron, becoming steeper at mid-height, and is capped by large overhangs near the top. The northeast face is devoid of large overhangs, but rises at a constant angle, ending sh...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn Saturday, July 23, 1983, at 1830, I was contacted by Nancy Kerr regarding her friends on the Northwest Face of Half Dome. One, Ken Morrell (23), had injured himself, but was OK and wanted to finish the cli...
FALL ON SNOW, UNBELAYED, EXHAUSTIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib—Notch CampAt 1430, on June 18, Russ Watts (33)—from Italy, fell 150 feet from the Notch Camp on the West Rib. Watts reported that he was investigating the snow conditions on the W...
Archeology on Llullaillaco. The Puna de Atacama extends for tens of thousands of square miles along the chain of the Andes on the northern frontier between Argentina and Chile and into southern Bolivia. This is the most splendid volcanic area of t...
Cerro Fitz Roy, Various Activity. From November 29-December 1, Joe Reichert and Sue Nott climbed to the end of the difficulties on the Californian Route, but strong winds forced them to traverse over to the Franco-Argentine descent route without r...
Esperero Canyon Towers, Mount Lemmon. From the outskirts of Tucson it is apparent that several notable towers crest the high western backbone of the immense Mount Lemmon massif. It being late February, John Rupley and I had planned a lower altitud...
Conquistadors of the Useless by Lionel Terray. Translated by Geoffrey Sutton. London: Victor Gollancz, Ltd., 1963. 361 pages, 80 illustrations. Price 30 s.This is a book which should fascinate anyone who is interested in mountaineering. M. Terray ...
South Howser Tower, The Minaret, Retinal Circus. In early August Aaron Martin from Mammoth Lakes, California, and I, from Moab, Utah, visited the Howser Spires in the Bugaboos. Before I arrived, Aaron had a huge solo day linking four major formati...
Le Chemineau de la Montagne, by Jacques Dieterlein. 16 mo., pp. 272, with 16 illustrations. Paris: Flammarion, 1938. Price 22 fr. 50.Mountaineers everywhere are acquainted with the extraordinary ski courses made by Léon Zwingelstein in 1933 and 19...
Hooker’s North Face Free-ClimbedGalen A. RowellMy fascination with the north face of Mount Hooker dates back to 1964.1 was climbing in Yosemite that fall while Royal Robbins was preparing to attempt the North America Wall of El Capitan. A bunch of...
On July 17, with the support of the American Alpine Club and the McNeill-Nott Award, Brianna Hartzell, Eric Dalzell, Mike Pond, and I made our way to the Bella Coola Valley. Our objective was the unclimbed east ridge of Mt. Desire, 15 miles sou...
JIM HINKHOUSE 1943-1995Jimmy “Jim” Dean Hinkhouse died with climbing companions Scott Hall and Tom Downey during a storm at Windy Corner on Denali, May 23, 1995.Jim was born and raised in Scappoose, Oregon, and graduated from the University of Ore...
MEXICOFALL ON ROCK, FREE-SOLO CLIMBING, El Potrero Chico, The Scariest Ride in the Park On November 24, Jimmy Rae Forester (43) fell to his death while free-soloing The Scariest Ride in the Park (5.9). He had failed to return to camp and was found...
Rondoy, by David Wall. London: John Murray 1965. 176 pages, 35 illustrations, 3 maps, biographic notes and glossary. Price 30s.In any comprehensive collection of mountaineering books the section devoted to the Andes will be relatively sparse. This...
Staunings Alps, Dansketinde, first ascents of south and southwest ridges. On July 15, Hamish Irvine, Colwyn Jones (Medical Officer), Jonathan Preston, and myself (leader), forming the Scottish Mountaineering Club East Greenland Expedition, were fl...