Miyar Glacier, Pangi Valley, Zanskar, Kishtwar, exploration; crossings of Kang La (5,440m), Poat La (5,500m), Dharlangwala Jot (5,086m), Shopu Pass (3,400m). For many years I have been trying to connect the entire length and breadth of the Himalay...
Central Peru, Various Ascents. My first campaign centered around the Rajuntay group of the Cordillera de la Viuda, inland from Lima and north of the sources of the Rimac River. From the railroad station of Chinchán I managed to reach the Rajuntay ...
FALLING ICEWashington, Mount Rainier, Kautz Ice CliffOn July 20 Mount Rainier communications received information relating to a 911 call from a climbing party on the Kautz Glacier route. The reporting climber Greg Prothman of Seattle Mountain Resc...
Pumori, Southeast Face, and Other Ascents. The Czech Mountaineering Expedition Spring '96 engaged in alpine-style climbing without a Base Camp and made ascents of Island Peak (6160 m) via the normal route, Ama Dablam (6812 m) via the south face (s...
Washington, Cascades, Big Four Mountain. On 23 August Robert Byhre and Grant Byhre were ascending a rock gully intending to climb Big Four mountain and Halls Peak. Robert Byhre had ascended each by nearly the same route four times. Route ascended ...
In September 2000 Rex Wolters and I climbed a new 1,500', IV 5.10 A1 line on the north face of Mt. Silex in the San Juan Mountains. It follows an arête/buttress to the right of the large dihedral on the western side of the north face.John Kelley
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn July 18, Scott Eisenbarth (25), a guide for Shasta Mountain Guides (SMG), was descending with two clients on the Avalanche Gulch route at 1015 when he was struck on the side of the head by a ...
Mount Waddington and Other Peaks. Andy Tuthill, Bruce Anderson, Mark Bebie and I and Canadian Joe Bajan climbed the south side of Mount Waddington on July 30. From Base Camp at 7000 feet on the Dais Glacier, in marginal weather we followed the ori...
Mt. Moran, South Buttress Prow to top of buttress. On a cool, crisp autumn day in September, Hans Johnstone, Greg Collins, and I paddled across Leigh Lake in the dawn’s early light. We hiked from the outlet of Leigh Canyon to the base of Mt. Moran...
SLIP ON ROCK, AVALANCHE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount WhyteA party of three made a scrambling ascent to the Popes Peak-Mount Whyte col on June 24, 1983. On descent, one of the party (37) slipped on loose rock and t...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PROTECTION PULLED OUTBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park/Alpine Recreation Area, Snowpatch SpireOn August 2, having climbed through the squeeze chimney, two climbers were ascending the final pit...
Nalumasortoq, Life is Beautiful. Takashi Suzuki and I opened a new route on the Left Pillar of the Nalumasortoq Tower in July. The route is named Life is Beautiful (VI- 5.9 A2+, 600m, 13 pitches). Nanortalik was still surrounded by a dense ice pac...
A.A.C., New York Section. Now 342 members strong but addressing a much larger audience, the New York Section prides itself on a variety of wide-ranging activities, both indoor and outdoor, enabling its members to broaden their circle of friends an...
Pumori, South Face Solo Winter Ascent. Earl Wiggins and I had hoped to climb the south face of Pumori in winter, doing it for the first time alpine-style. We established Base Camp at 17,500 feet below the face. During the second night in camp, Wig...
Rolling Mountain's lower summit (13,600 ft.) was first done by Miss Martha Bloom and Dave Lavender.
Une Victoire sur les Andes, by Bernard Pierre. Paris: Bibliothèque Hachette, 1957. 213 pages; ills.; map.This little book is an inexpensive version of M. Pierre’s "La Conquête du Salcantay, Géant des Andes” (for review, see A.A.J., 1954, 9:1, p. 1...
Alum Kuh, Ascents, and Insights into Iranian Climbing. In September, Leyla Pope, a Briton with dual British/Iranian nationality, organized an expedition to Iran to explore the climbing of Alum Kuh. As guests of the Iran Mountaineering Federation, ...
Cho Oyu. Alejandro Izquierdo, Italo Valle, Rodrigo Mújica and I established Base Camp at 5200 meters on April 3 and Camp I at 5600 meters. In order to reach Camp II at 5850 meters on the normal (Tichy) route on Cho Oyu, we had to cross either the ...
Mt. Mulanje, Chambe West Face, First One-Day Ascent, Previously Unreported. We arrived at Mt. Mulanje in August, 1998, with one goal in mind: to climb the largest rock face in Africa in a single day. Alard Hüfner and I had been climbing and establ...
In the middle of August, Spaniards Álvaro Enrique Fernández Escalante and Miguel de Merlo climbed what they believe is a variant on the German route. They began to the right of the German route, then joined it and left it to the right near the top.