FALL ON ICE, ROPED BUT NOT BELAYEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AberdeenThe initial pitches of the North Glacier route of Mount Aberdeen consist of 35-degree ice, usually bare in summer. On July 14, 1990, two climbers were roped together and mov...
Nameless Tower, Trango Towers, Second Ascent. A six-man Yugoslav team from Celje, Slovenia, led by Slavko Cankar, climbed the 1200- meter-high south-southeast face of the Nameless Tower on a new route to the left of the Polish-Japanese and America...
Nanga Parbat Attempts. Although many of the dozen expeditions that went to Nanga Parbat this year were successful, there were those which did not reach the summit. These include Swiss led by Stefan Wörner and Japanese led by Takashi Ozaki, both on...
KumaunBurphu Dhura, South Summit, Second Ascent, and Main Summit, First Ascent. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation, which had organized one expedition in 1999 to Burphu Dhura (6210m), organized two more in 2000. The first expedition followed the...
Upernivik Island, West Greenland. The expedition of the Lidau Section of the German Alpine Club was a complete success. We climbed from August 9 to 27 in the mountains of Upernivik Island at 72° N. We were Volker Stelzer, Klaus, Gustav and Susi Ha...
HIS MAJESTY, KING LEOPOLD III1902-1983Prince Leopold, who was bom in the royal palace in Brussels on November 3, 1902, followed in his royal father’s, Albert I, footsteps in his love of the mountains. He attended Eton, but in the main was given a ...
Annapurna, West Face Solo Attempt. From October 28 to 31, I climbed a new route on the west face of Annapurna solo alpine-style but did not ascend to the summit. I got to Base Camp at 4300 meters on October 19 and bivouacked at the foot of the wes...
WILLIAM SPENCER CHILD1909-1985Bill Child was bom in Boston July 23, 1909, but grew up in Philadelphia, where his father was a famous professor of English at the University of Pennsylvania. Bill went to Haverford School and to the University of Pen...
The Men and the Mountain : Frémont’s Fourth Expedition, by William Brandon. 337 pages with 3 sketch maps. New York: William Morrow and Company, 1955. Price $5.00.This account of Frémont’s fourth expedition in 1848 records the strong- willed but fu...
Kangshungatse. A Netherlands expedition led by Jean François Sablet unsuccessfully tried to climb Kangshungatse or Makalu II (25,066 feet) by its south ridge. The highest point reached was 23,625 feet on October 11, the same day that Camp IV was e...
Kangchenjunga, Indo-Ukrainian Expedition. Our expedition of three Indians and 16 Ukrainians reached the roadhead at Lachen in northern Sikkim on April 8 and established Base Camp at Green Lake at 4935 meters on April 14. We were Vadim Sviridenko, ...
Mountaineering—The Freedom of the Hills, by the Climbing Committee of The Mountaineers; Harvey Manning, Chairman of Editors; Editorial Committee: Nancy Bickford (Miller), John R. Hazle, Carl Henrikson, Thomas Miller, Franz Mohling, Rowland Tabor, ...
Khunyang Chhish, South Ridge, attempt. Kazuo Tobita, 60, returned to the Karakoram to attempt an ascent of Khunyang Chhish (7,852m), a mountain he has inspected six times and tried to climb four times. From May to July, with five other Japanese, h...
The Needles, Merlin Dome, Unbolt the Gate. In December Dave Seres and I climbed this route on the left side of Merlin Dome. Begin on a very bushy ledge system about 400 feet up. From the upper bushes, the first pitch starts up a short crack and en...
Dhaulagiri in the Post-Monsoon. There were six expeditions to Dhaulagiri, all on the normal northeast ridge. The expeditions are listed below with the make-up of the group, the leader, those who reached the summit and when: 3 French and 2 Swiss le...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONKentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir ValleyOn April 22, a male climber (40) was nearing the top of a short dihedral on a trad route called “Short and Sweet” (5.7), located at the Practice Wall. ...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt and Tragedy. The members of our expedition were Hitoshi Sakurai, Nobuyoshi Sakurai, Iwao Ogasawara, Shinji Kobayashi, Tetusa Baba, Shinya Nakashima, Katsuyuki Kitamura, Masaki Akiba, Ms. Yukiko Fukuzawa, Ms. Masae ...
California, San Francisco—On March 25, 1956 Bruce Frederick (16), with two companions, attempted an ascent of Lands End cliff. After his companions turned back, Frederick continued alone, reaching a point about 25 feet from the top before falling ...
Chugach Range. During an extremely rare period of sustained weather, Art Davidson, from Colorado, and I made first ascents of Kuluk Peak (7535 feet) and Peak 7190, north of Eagle River and east of Anchorage. Real problems came on the approach the ...
Mount Forbidden, South Face. Craig McKibben and I made a new route in July on the south face that ascends directly to the summit and lies 150 to 200 feet to the right of the other south-face route. We started on right-hand slabs 100 feet below a f...