Over three trips in October and November, Aaron Mulkey and I looked for ice and mixed climbs in the Beartooths. We managed a major route each trip, which made the long and remote approaches worthwhile. After speaking with several Beartooth c...
FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOAT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn June 18, 1982, 24 members of a geology field trip from Western Illinois University hiked to the base of Hidden Falls on the west side of Jenny Lake. Upon arriving at...
HANDHOLD CAME OFF–FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INEXPERIENCE, FAULTY INSTRUCTIONWashington, WilkesonOn July 7, I (25) took S.P. (22), my girlfriend of a year, for a day of instructional rock climbing and rappelling. I have been rock climbing for...
Blow-Me-Down Wall, Lucifer’s Lighthouse. Towering nearly 1,300' above Devil’s Bay on the south coast of Newfoundland, the solid white granite of Blow-Me-Down offers some of the best sea cliff climbing in North America. Accessible only by boat, the...
Welzenbach’s Climbs. A Biographical Study and the Collected Writings of Willo Welzenbach. Eric Roberts. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1981. 272 pages, black-and-white photographs, $14.95.Introduction to Alpinism 101. All right, class, What are the tw...
La Mascara, Fragile Faces, New Route. Gabor Babcsan (Hungary), Stéphane Bauzac (France), and Leslie Fucsko (French/Hungarian) opened the route Fragile Faces (A4+ 6C, 800m) on the east face of La Mascara, located at the end of the Bader Valley (for...
Huascaran massif, unnamed wall, Entre Boires. From July 23 to August 9, after seven days carrying loads, acclimatizing, and fixing the first 200m of the route, Youri Cappis (from Switzerland but living in Catalonia) and I climbed a new route on a ...
About 1130 on March 9, 1986, Tracy Dorton reported to the Valley Visitor Center that three friends of his were climbing on Half Dome and that he was concerned about them due to recent bad weather. Search and Rescue Officer Mike Murray was notified...
German Cho Oyu Attempt. This four-man expedition dwindled to just one member before arrival at Base Camp; two went to Lhotse first and never went on to Cho Oyu and the third got sick before getting to Base Camp and left Nepal. That left Hans Eitel...
ALLEN CARPÉ+1894-1932In the death of Allen Carpé American mountaineering has lost one of its most enthusiastic and accomplished advocates. He was born in Chicago, December 20th, 1894, a great-grandson of Ezra Cornell, founder of Cornell University...
Jirishanca NorteLeslie D. Wilson, unaffiliatedThe twin peaks of Jirishanca and Jirishanca Norte, 20,099 and 19,735 feet respectively, are located in the northern Cordillera Huayhuash between Yerupajá and Rondoy. The only ascent of Jirishanca was m...
Utah, Wasatch Range, Mt. Timpanogos. On 16 June Richard Smith (16), left around mid-morning to climb some of the couloirs of snow that still existed on the east side of the mountain above his family’s house. He carried a small pack, a lunch, flash...
After three years of attempts, on August 1, Helena Fagundes and Ralf Côrtes established Saracura (6° VII D4 E3 (BR), which could translate to: 540m, 5.11a), on Pedra do Elefante, near the rural village Taquaril in the mountains of Rio de Janeiro. ...
FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 9, 1988, three members of the “Denali Flight 88 Expedition,” Jond Chrosto- phe, Serge Tuaz, and Eric Alamichel (20) left from the 5400 meter camp on the West Buttress route ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, OFF ROUTE–LOST TIME, HASTE, DARKNESSCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Half DomeOn August 19, Robert Kuntz (31) and Ryan Worsham (age unknown) hiked up the slabs approach to the Northwest Face of Half Dome. Th...
New routes and information. A six-member British expedition organized by Sarah Griffin visited the Gigante Grande Group in June and July, establishing base camp at the northern end of Lake Larum Khota. From here they made eight ascents, two of whi...
Mt. Kitchener, East Ridge. We had been attracted by the advantages of a new and shorter route up Mt. Kitchener which would avoid hours of toil on the Athabaska tongue and the Columbia Icefield. In the early hours of July 25 we (Fred Ayres, Don Cla...
The First Ascent of Mt. Rainier by Way of Liberty Ridge on Willis Wall(September 28 - October 1, 1935)Ome DaiberFOR years the north face of Mt. Rainier (Willis Wall and surrounding territory) has stood unconquered. The mere sight of it was enough ...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt. With 36 porters, our six-man expedition reached the Rupal Base Camp on August 31. On September 1, one group with five porters established Camp I at 5100 meters. At that time the conditions were excellent and the s...
Paccharaju and Nevado CopaH. Adams Carter and John S. HumphreysAs I dragged my feet up the last steep pitch of the thousand-foot slope, I wondered wearily how far ahead my crew had gone while I was chopping ice off the rocks at the brook crossing....