Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt, and West Kahiltna Peak, Southwest Buttress. Ned Lewis and I made an attempt to climb the Lowe-Kennedy route on Hunter (A.A.J., 1978, pages 344-352) in early June. We hoped to make a quick alpine ascent and descend...
Ghhanyala Hies, attempt. A five-member ski expedition, which comprised Yan Andre (leader), Stephane Dan and Pierre Alexis de Postestad (French) and Thor Husted and Nathan Wallace (Americans), was the first officially to attempt Ghhanyala Hies (6,7...
CARDIAC ARREST-FALL ON SNOWAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Temple, East RidgeOn September 15, a party of two was ascending the Aemmer Couloir variant of this route. This is a snow and ice gully of 45 to 55 degrees. About halfway up the route o...
Mt. Leeper, Ascent. On May 13, Art Weiner and I were flown into the upper Yahtse Glacier at around 4,700 feet by Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters. As we flew in, Paul mentioned that in 1993, he had landed in his Super Cub high in a bowl on th...
Pyramid Peak, Saint Elias Mountains. On September 11, Dan Doak and I flew to 4200 feet 2½ miles south of Pyramid Peak, which lies 22 miles southeast of McCarthy, hoping to finish making the first ascent that Dan, Jesper Krogholt from Denmark and I...
James W. Ebert, 1947–2011Jim Ebert was born and raised in the geographically oppressed Plains of the Midwest. In spite of this initial handicap, he grew into one of the most impressive climbing instructors and out- doorsmen in America.His parents,...
Nilgiri South Attempt. A six-man Japanese expedition, led by Motoro Iwasaki, had hoped to make an alpine-style ascent of Nilgiri South by a new route, the south face in the pre-monsoon period, but failed at 18,800 feet because of deep snow.Michael...
Mt. Combatant, Perseverance, New Route. On the evening of July 29, White Saddle Air chop- pered Alan Kearney and I to a precarious little spot in the icefall of the upper Tiedemann Glacier directly below the immense east face of Waddington. This a...
Mt. Carillon, Sweet Carillon and Pipeline. Only two hours from Whitney Portal but unseen from the North Fork Trail, the east face of Mt. Carillon (13,552') stands guard over beautiful Cleaver Cirque. On July 20 Andre Kiryanov and I went up toward ...
Fitz Roy, Aguja Guillaumet, Southeast Face. Three days after their arrival in the national park, on December 2 Daniel Anker and Thomas Wüschner climbed to the summit of Fitz Roy by the American route, the southwest ridge. On December 7 Anker soloe...
Gonapirua, Cordillera Raura. This 17,000-foot peak was ascended for the first time on May 15 by the Peruvians Anselmo Quinteros, Jeremías Herbozo, Sergio Zúñiga Montemayor, Marcelino Javier, Gregorio Girón, Rómulo Azabache, and Eladio Rivera, of t...
Volcán San José, First Ski Ascent and Descent, 1984. In October 1984 Miguel Sepúlveda, Alejandro Manfredini, Ludwig Wulf and I made the first ski ascent and descent of the Volcán San José (5850 meters, 19,193 feet) in four days.Gastón Oyarzún, Fed...
Chile, Various Activity. In the last two southern summers (December through March), I accompanied local mountaineers in repeat climbs in central Chile. However, on the four first ascents I was able to make in that period, I had no companions. On D...
Kangchenjunga, North Face Solo Attempt. Frenchman Eric Monier hoped to climb the north face of Kangchenjunga solo. He set out from Camp I at 5900 meters where the only other member of the party stayed. On April 24, the third day after leaving Camp...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT/CAM PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE BELAYColorado, Boulder CanyonOn June 4, 1984, Jay Kenney (28) and Doug Mallach (25) were climbing Bitty Buttress (5.8-) when Kenney fell. In Kenney’s words, “We had completed three pitches without incid...
Everest 1952, by André Roch. 72 pages of black and white and 8 of color photographs with commentary. Preface by Lt. General E. F. Norton, 9-page introduction by Dr. Edward Wyss- Dunant, map, and end papers. Geneva: Editions Jeheber, 1952.The membe...
Illampu West Face, Three Routes and Other Climbs. On June 25, Miha Vreca and Marko Vrevc climbed a new route on the west face of Illampu Norte (6342 meters, 20,798 feet). This is Number 1 on the accompanying drawing. They rated it UIAA VI—, 85°, A...
Swabian Caucasus Expedition, 1936. Two Stuttgart climbers, Fritz Schäfer and Hans Schweizer, did several climbs in the central Caucasus from a camp near the Stuluwzik Pass above Dop- pakh Glacier.Sugantau was climbed by the S. ridge on July 19th. ...
The Juggernaut, Dihedral Route. This route follows the only prominent open-book on the face climbed and named by Beckey in 1973 above Crown Lake, near Rock Island Pass. Vern Clevenger, Bill Dougherty, Mike Farrell and I climbed this difficult 4-pi...
Royal Arches. Royal Robbins and Joe Fitschen took three days to establish a direct route over the Royal Arches. This was all sixth-class climbing.