FALL ON ROCK—INADEQUATE BELAY, ROPE TOO SHORT—LOWERING, DISTRACTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Yin YangOn April 26, an experienced climber (44) had led Yin Yang (5.10d) and set up a top-rope for his partner (26) to follow. The leader had used lon...
Mazamas. The Mazamas, of Portland, Oregon, held their 56th Annual Outing in Grand Teton National Park, 16–31 July 1949. The main camp was at String Lake. Seventy-two persons registered, of whom 37 arrived from the west by chartered bus. Six peaks ...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount ForakerOn May 1, 1987, Dan Daugherty (32), a former Chairman of the Alaska Mountain Rescue Group, and Mickey Pratt (28) registered for a climb of the southeast ridge of Mount Foraker, indicating a due-out date of May 12 or 1...
Inderkila, Kulu. In the Sherpa Guide School of Manali we contracted for two Sherpas, Pasang, who was a member of the Indian Everest Expedition of 1965, and Darem Tchan. From Base Camp on the Indrasan Glacier at 14,500 feet we placed a high camp at...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn June 3 at 0750, a man (41) fell on snow/ice while ascending at approximately 12,500 feet at the base of the Red Banks in Avalanche Gulch. He attempted...
Zion SoloBridging the gap between work and lifeby Amanda TarrI emerged, coughing, from a confused sleep. Rolling off the old itchy sofa cushions on the floor of my office, I oriented on my computer’s blinking light, crawled to my desk, killed the ...
Hunter, Barrille and P 6000+. Julie Brugger and I made the third ascent of the north buttress of Hunter to the summit via the Stump route. It was in excellent condition during the nine days it took to climb it. We summited on June 3. We took anoth...
In March 2012, when Stephane Hanssens, Sean Villanueva, Jean-Louis Wertz, and I emerged from the jungle and saw the wall, it looked so overhanging that gravity weighed heavy on our minds. We were unsure the face behind the waterfall was free-climb...
They Climbed the Alps, by Edwin Muller, Jr. Jonathan Cape and Harrison Smith, New York. Price $3.50.Under the title “They Climbed the Alps”, Mr. Edwin Muller, Jr., has given a very interesting and often a dramatic account of the evolution of the a...
Big Wall Climbing: Breakthroughs on the Free-Climbing Frontier. Paul Piana. Sierra Club Books: San Francisco, 1997. Hard cover, profuse color photography. 190 pages. $35.In large part, the history of modem world rock climbing is a response to the ...
After a number of years of ever-more difficult and impressive ascents, the year 2000, at first glance, seemed to represent a bit of a lull in progress in the high and mighty mountains. There were few great ticks in the Greater Ranges that climbers...
Spokane Mountaineers. Courses in ski mountaineering and basic climbing were repeated in 1967. The graduation climb of Mount Hood drew 31 enthusiasts. Members testified earnestly and in depth at Senator Jackson’s hearings on the proposed North Casc...
Kabang, Attempt, and Naimona’nyi, New Route. On September 10, Kinichi Yamamori (leader), Masayoshi Matsudate, Yoshihide Higami and Mitsuru Ito left Narita Airport and travelled to Lhasa via Beijing and Chengdu. On September 17, Ayumi Nozawai, Tomo...
Introduction to the Bobbie Burns GroupFrancis S. NorthTHERE is nothing dearer to the heart of a mountaineer than a first ascent, especially in a district which has resisted previous attempts. When in the summer of 1938, Georgia Engelhard and I vie...
Ushba Region, overview. The region of Ushba is the heart of the Caucasus. Baksanskoy ravine is rather wide, limited by Mt. Elbrus on the one hand and the peaks of the Main Caucasian mountain range on the other hand. There are more ravines downstre...
Alpine Club of Canada. Highlights of our year would have to be our successful club expedition to Mount Logan; our general mountaineering camp at Farnham Creek, 35 miles west of Radium Hot Springs, B.C.; and the tremendous activity at our clubhouse...
Modern Alpinism in the KarakoramCollecting climbing’s overlooked jewelsby Luca “Rampikino” Maspes, ItalyThere are many kilometers between Alaska and Pakistan, but in the month of July, the two places were extremely close together, almost connected...
Drakensberg Mountains, Monk's Cowl (3,224m), Janschek-Mackenzie-Manson. The Drakensberg Mountains (Quathamba in Zulu, translated: “the barrier of spears”) are not very frequented by climbers. Interest in this area has waned more and more as the at...
JUNEAU ICE FIELD RESEARCH PROJECT, 1954Since 1948 the Juneau Ice Field Research Project has conducted in the Juneau area a long-range program studying the relation between glacier behavior and climate. The Project has been supported by the Office ...
Kangchenjunga Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Hannes Grimm, Walter Hadersdorfer, Edu Koch, Dr. Gerhard Reif, Michael Saumwe- ber, Karl Schrag and me as leader. On March 4, we left Basantpur with 156 porters. After traveling throug...