High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Everest and Other Unforgiving Places. David Breashears. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1999. 16 color photos. 309 pages. $26.00.It would be a great injustice for High Exposure to be regarded in any potential r...
FALL ON ROCK – BELAY FAILURE (UNSECURED ROPE, DISTRACTION), NO HELMETCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Five Open BooksOn August 11, my brothers, Eric (26) and Thayne (19), and I, Grace Rich (31), were visiting Yosemite and we decided to go climbing. Er...
Everest Attempt via Hornbein Couloir and Tragedy. L’Esprit d’Equipe had post-monsoon permits for the Great and Hornbein Couloirs on the north face of Everest. We concentrated on the Hornbein Couloir so that Benoit Chamoux might try a ski descent f...
CHARLES GRANVILLE BRUCE1866–1939The death in London last July at the age of seventy-three of Brigadier-General The Hon. C. G. Bruce takes away another of the outstanding figures of our day in the alpine world. General Bruce had a great love for th...
El Capitan, The Shield, Rescue and Judicial Precedent. On May 16, Austrians Christian Zenz and Christian Wassertheurer requested a rescue from The Shield on El Capitan that eventually involved 38 park personnel and two helicopters. In the debriefi...
AVALANCHE, HELICOPTER/SKI OPERATIONS—British Columbia, Cariboo Mountains. On 17 February 1974, three groups of ten skiers each on a helicopter ski week with Canadian Mountain Holidays were skiing a 3000-foot slope eight miles from the town of Vale...
Himalayas Photographs and text by Yoshikazu Shirakawa. Testimonial by Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah Deva, King of Nepal. Preface by Arnold Toynbee. Introduction by Sir Edmund Hillary. Essay, “The Great Himalayas,” by Kyuya Fukuda. New York: Harry N. Ab...
FALLING ROCK—Quebec, Mont Pinnacle, Lac Lyster. On July 2, a climber displaced, by a few inches, a block near the top of La Voie Normale on MontPinnacle. On July 6 and 7, ropes passed the block to check it and found it stable. On the 8th, a group ...
A Picture History of Mountaineering, by Ronald Clark. New York: The Macmillan Company, 1956. 350 ills.; explanatory text. Price $5.95.Mr. Clark, whose noteworthy "Victorian Mountaineers" and other related books have been reviewed in earlier issues...
Siniolchu. Siniolchu (6887 meters, 22,595 feet) is probably the most beautiful peak in Sikkim. It was first climbed by Germans in 1936 and again in 1937. In 1979, about 20 Indians from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute, climbing on three d...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – TOOL PLACEMENTWashington, Banks Lake, Brush BashOn 30 December, RM (23), while leading Brush Bash, WI 4, (one pitch) at Banks Lake, Washington, sustained a leader fall resulting in a badly sprained left ankle. ...
Mount Asgard, Northeast Face and Mount Frigga, West Pillar. John Rzeczycki and I spent 50-plus days in the Asgard region of Baffin Island from late June through late August. After arriving at Base Camp via helicopter, we spent 20 days establishing...
What Are the Chances of Climbing Kangchenjunga?Norman G. DyhrenfurthKangchenjunga has always held for me a fascination that cannot be put into words. Although I have not been there, I have studied most of the available literature on the subject, a...
Chamar Attempt. An expedition of ten Englishmen and an American led by Robert Brown hoped to climb Chamar, Shringi Himal (7187 meters, 23,579 feet) by its northeast ridge, but they were not able to get higher than 5400 meters, which they reached o...
Extreme Rock & Ice. Garth Hattingh. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001. 160 pages, 200 color photos, paperback. $39.95.Massively oversized, Extreme Rock & Ice is divided into five spectacular sections: Rock Climbs, Ice & Mixed Climb...
Qong Muztagh East (ca 6,976m). In September and October, Diana Borisova, Pavel Demesh- chik, Vasiliy Ivanov, Ivan Muyzhnek, Anna Pereverzeva, Sergey Zayko, and I visited the Western Kun Lun, near the northern border of Tibet. It was my fourth expe...
HOWARD FREDERICK JOHN LAMBART 1880-1946On 12 January 1946 our valued friend of mountaineering days, “Fred” Lambart, left his home at Ottawa on his last great adventure, and true to his sturdy nature, without fear or question; for he had lived an a...
VARIOUS: FALLS ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE BELAYS, STRANDED, BEESNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksOf the 28 accidents reported from the Shawangunks in 1995, 17 were the result of falling, and in three cases, prote...
El Sombrero, Just Another BBQ. This spectacular line on El Sombrero at the end of the Mexican Mountain Road in the Swell was finally climbed. I had traveled into this area on four prior occasions to climb this route, but was thwarted by an unusual...
Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt, and West Kahiltna Peak, Southwest Buttress. Ned Lewis and I made an attempt to climb the Lowe-Kennedy route on Hunter (A.A.J., 1978, pages 344-352) in early June. We hoped to make a quick alpine ascent and descend...