McKinley, New Routes. Our original intention was to climb the Cassin Ridge, but that was overrun with climbers and we found a ridge, which had only been descended but not ascended before. (See above.) Southwest of Windy Comer, it runs over P 12,96...
Annapurna, Attempt by the Northwest Spur of “Nameless Peak.” Between Annapurna I and Varah Shikhar (Fang) lies a peak which must be over 7700 meters, which has been called the “Nameless Peak.” A distinct spur descends to the valley of the Miristhi...
Phabrang. The Mountaineering Association of Shiga Prefecture sent Shigemaro Ibayashi, leader, Takao Yamada and six others to India. Base Camp was placed at 15,000 feet north of the mountain on September 21. A 19,000-foot peak west of Camp I (18,00...
Brammah I, Ski Descent. Our expedition was composed of Emmanuel Rossi, Dr. Jean-Marie Rossi, Denis Favre, Jean-Pierre Susini, Guy Bartschi, Jacques Simon and me as leader. The purpose of the expedition was to make and film an extreme ski descent. ...
Cerro Miño. This conical volcano (5661 meters, 18,573 feet), located east-northeast of the Oyahue pass, on the Chilean-Bolivian border, was climbed in December 1972 by Bión and Osiel González and Ursus Trotter, members of a large party of the Sant...
The Devils Crags (12,612 ft.). July 25th, 1933, marked the third ascent and the first by the northwest ridge, the party being led by Jules Eichorn. A new route on the west face, north of Michael’s route, was accomplished on the same day by H. H. L...
FALLING ROCK AND NO HARD HAT—Ontario, Milton, Rattlesnake Point. Kim Rodgers was injured on the forehead on May 2, 1976, when she was hit by a rock dislodged by a climber above her. She was not wearing a hard hat. Five or six stitches were require...
ACUTE ABDOMENAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 2, at 2100, Tom Bohanon of the “Three Guys on Denali” expedition came to the ranger camp at 14,200 feet complaining of hematemesis (vomiting blood). Bohanon was examined and diagnosed as ha...
1938 Expeditions. A seventh expedition to Everest will leave early in the spring of 1938 under the leadership of H. W. Tilman. A small Austrian expedition under the leadership of Rudolf Schwarzgruber is understood to be projected also for this spr...
Ganesh V. An expedition of 7 Slovenes led by Stane Belak established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4150, 5150 and 6000 meters. They followed the 1989 Nepalese-Japanese route on Ganesh V as far as Camp II. On November 13, Belak and Tomaž Humar cl...
A Lifelong Love Affair with the Mountains. John Filsinger. A. G. Halldin Publishing Co., Inc., Indiana, PA 15701, 1991. 380 pages, 944 photos (301 in color). $29.95.This profusely illustrated book is a personal document covering a half-century of ...
In spring 2009, while climbing Jobo Rinjang with Joe Puryear, I saw for the first time Pangbuk Ri. With a massive dual summit and steep flanks on the Nepalese side, it presented an alluring objective. Two years later I had the privilege of returni...
Washington, Hozameen Peak—On August 22, in good weather, a party of four climbers, all from Vancouver, British Columbia departed fromCamp Hozameen on Ross Lake in northwest Washington to climb Hoza- meen Peak about two miles south of the Canadian ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDCalifornia, South Sierra Nevada, Spanish NeedlesFrank Riseley (45) was showing Explorer Scouts how to downclimb a pitch. His feet slipped and his handhold was too weak. He fell five feet, jammed his left foot into a c...
On July 2, Todd Marshall (34) was leading the seventh pitch of Petit Grepon South Face (III, 5.8). At 1900, Marshall topped out on the spur ledge below the summit, stood up with arms upraised, and gave a, “Hurray,” and got blown off by a strong gu...
Moose’s Tooth and HuntingtonJames Quirk, UnaffiliatedDAVE NETTLE AND I hadn’t been in Talkeetna for more than ten minutes when we descended on the bar at the Fairview Inn. One of the folks present was Doug Geeting, our pilot. We mentioned to him t...
Makalu, winter solo attempt and tragedy. The well-known French mountaineer, Jean-Christophe Lafaille, 40 years old, vanished on January 27, 2006, while attempting to make an entirely solo ascent of Makalu (8,485m), the world’s fifth highest mounta...
Colorado, Third Flatiron. On July 30, Dennis Dreher (18), Evans Winner (28), and Roy Rieckus (19) were descending the Third Flatiron in the face of an impending storm. Dreher rappelled down their ascent route, the east face. The rappel was fixed a...
FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, BAD WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mt. McKinleyMike McCoomb (21) was a member of the three-man “Bronze Carabiner Expedition” on the West Buttress of Mt. McKinley. They flew to Kahiltna Glacier on May 4 to begin thei...
INADEQUATE FOOD AND WATER, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressShigeo Tamoi (33) began his solo climb of Mount McKinley’s West Buttress on May 28. He ascended to the 14,200-foot camp in three days and then he acclimatized for three ...