Unnamed peaks 6,084m (Namy) and 6,130m (Yury), first ascents. I got a permit for Gajiang (6,111m), as it attracted me strongly. It soars like Machhapuchare in a less-frequented area of Damodar Himal. However, this peak had very steep slopes. In sp...
Hard Rock, Great British Rock-Climbs, compiled by Ken Wilson. London: Hart-Davis, MacGibbon, 1975. 220 pages. Many photographs and diagrams. Price: £6.95.This attractive, big book opens with an interesting account of the development of difficult r...
Cerro Torre Valley, Various Ascents. In January, during a four-week stay in Bridwell Camp and thanks to the cooperation of the weather, I managed to accomplish with various partners several interesting ascents. On January 10, Conrad Anker, Steve G...
The Dudley F. Wolfe Fund of the Swiss Alpine Club. Through the will of Dudley Wolfe, who lost his life on the second American Karkaram Expedition, the S. A. C. has received the sum of $6,172 (Fr. 26,508.75), which will be used toward scientific ad...
China to Chitral, by H. W. Tilman. xi + 124 pages, with 69 illustrations and four maps. New York: Cambridge University Press, 1952. Price, $4.75.The master traveller and master baker recounts in delightful fashion how he and Shipton failed to clim...
Edith Cavell, North Face Indirect. In mid-July, Mark Hesse, Joe Hladick, and I put up a new route on this 4000-foot roadside face. Leaving our car sometime after midnight, we climbed directly and anxiously up the very active icefall of the lower A...
Attempt on Siulá Chico, Cordillera Huayhuash and Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. A German expedition from Munich was led by Horst Wels and consisted of Dr. Rudl Fürst, Hubert Schmidbauer, Helmut Salger, Werner Lindauer and Ulla Staudacher. In the...
West Maiden, North Prow. On August 1-2, Loma Corson, Randy Farris, Mike Menoloscino and I climbed a possible new route on the north side of the West Maiden. We began our climb by traversing left across the wide ledge that is a prominent feature on...
Mount Adams, West Ridge. The first recorded ascent of this route was completed July 14 by Dr. Ralph Uber, Wallace Juneau, Gary Foulkes, and Lex Maxwell. The principal problem was route finding to by-pass some minor gendarmes and to avoid the frequ...
Washington, Near Lake Wenatchee—On July 10, Bob Anderson (27), Ralph Kelso, and Darwin Clark were climbing a steep slope near Lake Wenatchee. Anderson reached a ledge from which he could not climb up or down. The party was apparently without a rop...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, ThatchtopOn November 15, at 1000, Richard Ladue (37) was doing an unroped solo of All Mixed Up (III, WI4) on Thatchtop when he fell 100 feet to the base of t...
Trango Nameless Tower, Free Ascent. On September 7, an all-Wyoming Team topped out on the summit of the Nameless Tower (20,500'). The team members Todd Skinner, Mike Lilygren, Jeff Bechtel and Bobby Model spent 60 nights on the wall in order to fr...
Ice Screws. On the Nisqually Glacier in early June we had the chance to check and compare MARWA ice screws (AAJ, 1962, 13:1, p. 287) with the lag-screw type and also with wedge and tubular ice pitons. I was most impressed with the ease in which th...
Wyoming, Tetons, Mt. Moran. On June 12 Milt Hokanson (19) and David Wood (20) were attempting a climb on the South Buttress of Mount Moran. Hokanson led around a corner onto a high angle slab attempting to reach the bolt from which to pendulum. Th...
El Capitan, Zodiac, warp speed and free variation. After an exploratory ascent in spring 2002 with Valley local Ammon McNeely, I knew that the Zodiac could be climbed free. In spring 2003 my brother Thomas and I started working to free-climb it. W...
EXHAUSTIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyErnest Chandler (52) was a member of a Fantasy Ridge guided expedition to the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. The group, led by guides Jon Waterman and Steve Gall, left Kahiltna Glacier base camp on the afternoon o...
STRANDED–RAPPEL ROPE TOO SHORTArizona, Camelback MountainOn March 15, a person who wishes to remain anonymous was attempting to rappel from a rock face that is 400 feet high. He started rappelling, and when he got close to the end of his rope, he ...
Chulu West, Annapurna Himal. The westernmost summit (21,300 feet) of Chulu was climbed on November 4 by Mountain Travel Sirdar Lhakpa Nuru, Ang Jangbo Sherpa, Dr. Larry Zaroff and me. This peak is best viewed from the Thorong La; it is the summit ...
Aguja Saint Exupery, Condorito. Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold and Edbert Dozenkaff did the first ascent of Condorito (5.12d A2, 400m + 300m via the Buscaini route) on the southeast face of Aguja Saint Exupery. Jens Richter and Rainer Treppter did the ...
White Chuck Mountain, South Face. On August 31, Ted Carpenter, Mike Heath, and I made the first ascent of the south face on this often climbed peak located some 10 miles east-southeast of Darrington. From the basin on the west side of the peak, wh...