Mount KimballGrace Hoeman“KIMBALL is a tough nut to crack. One may aim the blow by studying photos and maps, reading of previous attempts, careful selection of food and equipment and by flying in close in good weather, but there is no guarantee th...
Barry Corbet 1936-2004“Damn it,” Barry said. I’d just shared my latest ruminations on heroes, and declared him one of them. He squirmed, didn’t like it, said so. One thing that irks wheelchair users, he told me, is to be viewed by “normies” as nee...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. During July Jim LaRue, Jan Olsen and I guided Jeff Blaser, Frank and Marshall Farmer and Colin Steele into the range from San Sebastián. Two other clients dropped out en route to Lago Naboba with altitude problems. Af...
GeographicalDistricts1951-781979NumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta713112711612British Columbia1094420612913Yukon Territory101928202Ontario9314000Quebec7221202East Arctic305100West Ar...
Clearing Garbage from Mount McKinleyTERRY JONES, University of Oregon Outdoor ProgramWE are grateful for the grant from the American Alpine Club Climbing Fellowship Fund, given to support our effort to clean the West Buttress route of Mount McKinl...
Strange and Dangerous Dreams: The Fine Line Between Adventure and Madness. Geoff Powter. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2006. 8 pages of black & white photographs. 245 PAGES. $22.95 HARDCOVER.A bit of ancient wisdom has it that no matter how...
Mount Everest in the Post-Monsoon. A small Indian team came to the north side of Everest during the summer and stayed on well into the autumn. They were at or above basecamp nine weeks in all. Their leader, Atanu Chatterjee, said they were finally...
Manual of Ski Mountaineering, 3rd Edition, edited by David Brower. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1962. 224 pages, 40 photographs, 73 sketches. Price $3.75.The third edition of this fine manual has recently appeared under the Sierra Club imprint. Ori...
Days RememberedJames SimpsonWhen a man becomes a legend in his own time, particularly if he is articulate, he creates his own image for posterity, an autobiography that is unique and not to be improved by others. Jim Simpson was my friend and comp...
Steve House and I climbed the Infinite Spur on June 9 and 10. We carried little in the way of gear, because we are lazy and could not be bothered carrying tents and sleeping bags. This allowed and forced us to move at a steady pace. Our speed was ...
I was suspended in the shade, clenching my upper ice tool with both hands. Behind me, the north face of Cerro Torre beamed in the sun. Deep down below me, the vast icecap met the fjords of Chile, far, far away. The ice vein that wed followed up th...
Newly Opened Peaks in the Nepal Himalaya. The Ministry of Tourism has opened 19 of the less popular Expeditions Peaks to mark the celebration of Visit Nepal Year 1998. These peaks are free of charge in 1998 and 1999, though a Sirdar and permission...
Johannesburg, Northeast Face, Winter Ascent, North Cascades. In mid February Josh Lieberman and I took advantage of perfect weather and low snow cover to drive 18 miles up the Cascade River road. We walked the last four miles up the road. Johannes...
This year again we are extremely grateful to those friends who have done so much to help us to put this section together. Without their help it could not exist. We can not thank all those who have helped but do wish to express our gratitude in par...
Ambush Peak, Dike Route. Ambush Peak’s main face rises from a low angle apron, becoming steeper at mid-height, and is capped by large overhangs near the top. The northeast face is devoid of large overhangs, but rises at a constant angle, ending sh...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn Saturday, July 23, 1983, at 1830, I was contacted by Nancy Kerr regarding her friends on the Northwest Face of Half Dome. One, Ken Morrell (23), had injured himself, but was OK and wanted to finish the cli...
FALL ON SNOW, UNBELAYED, EXHAUSTIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib—Notch CampAt 1430, on June 18, Russ Watts (33)—from Italy, fell 150 feet from the Notch Camp on the West Rib. Watts reported that he was investigating the snow conditions on the W...
Archeology on Llullaillaco. The Puna de Atacama extends for tens of thousands of square miles along the chain of the Andes on the northern frontier between Argentina and Chile and into southern Bolivia. This is the most splendid volcanic area of t...
Cerro Fitz Roy, Various Activity. From November 29-December 1, Joe Reichert and Sue Nott climbed to the end of the difficulties on the Californian Route, but strong winds forced them to traverse over to the Franco-Argentine descent route without r...
Esperero Canyon Towers, Mount Lemmon. From the outskirts of Tucson it is apparent that several notable towers crest the high western backbone of the immense Mount Lemmon massif. It being late February, John Rupley and I had planned a lower altitud...