Johannesburg, Northeast Face, Winter Ascent, North Cascades. In mid February Josh Lieberman and I took advantage of perfect weather and low snow cover to drive 18 miles up the Cascade River road. We walked the last four miles up the road. Johannes...
This year again we are extremely grateful to those friends who have done so much to help us to put this section together. Without their help it could not exist. We can not thank all those who have helped but do wish to express our gratitude in par...
Ambush Peak, Dike Route. Ambush Peak’s main face rises from a low angle apron, becoming steeper at mid-height, and is capped by large overhangs near the top. The northeast face is devoid of large overhangs, but rises at a constant angle, ending sh...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn Saturday, July 23, 1983, at 1830, I was contacted by Nancy Kerr regarding her friends on the Northwest Face of Half Dome. One, Ken Morrell (23), had injured himself, but was OK and wanted to finish the cli...
FALL ON SNOW, UNBELAYED, EXHAUSTIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib—Notch CampAt 1430, on June 18, Russ Watts (33)—from Italy, fell 150 feet from the Notch Camp on the West Rib. Watts reported that he was investigating the snow conditions on the W...
Archeology on Llullaillaco. The Puna de Atacama extends for tens of thousands of square miles along the chain of the Andes on the northern frontier between Argentina and Chile and into southern Bolivia. This is the most splendid volcanic area of t...
Cerro Fitz Roy, Various Activity. From November 29-December 1, Joe Reichert and Sue Nott climbed to the end of the difficulties on the Californian Route, but strong winds forced them to traverse over to the Franco-Argentine descent route without r...
Esperero Canyon Towers, Mount Lemmon. From the outskirts of Tucson it is apparent that several notable towers crest the high western backbone of the immense Mount Lemmon massif. It being late February, John Rupley and I had planned a lower altitud...
Conquistadors of the Useless by Lionel Terray. Translated by Geoffrey Sutton. London: Victor Gollancz, Ltd., 1963. 361 pages, 80 illustrations. Price 30 s.This is a book which should fascinate anyone who is interested in mountaineering. M. Terray ...
South Howser Tower, The Minaret, Retinal Circus. In early August Aaron Martin from Mammoth Lakes, California, and I, from Moab, Utah, visited the Howser Spires in the Bugaboos. Before I arrived, Aaron had a huge solo day linking four major formati...
Le Chemineau de la Montagne, by Jacques Dieterlein. 16 mo., pp. 272, with 16 illustrations. Paris: Flammarion, 1938. Price 22 fr. 50.Mountaineers everywhere are acquainted with the extraordinary ski courses made by Léon Zwingelstein in 1933 and 19...
Hooker’s North Face Free-ClimbedGalen A. RowellMy fascination with the north face of Mount Hooker dates back to 1964.1 was climbing in Yosemite that fall while Royal Robbins was preparing to attempt the North America Wall of El Capitan. A bunch of...
On July 17, with the support of the American Alpine Club and the McNeill-Nott Award, Brianna Hartzell, Eric Dalzell, Mike Pond, and I made our way to the Bella Coola Valley. Our objective was the unclimbed east ridge of Mt. Desire, 15 miles sou...
JIM HINKHOUSE 1943-1995Jimmy “Jim” Dean Hinkhouse died with climbing companions Scott Hall and Tom Downey during a storm at Windy Corner on Denali, May 23, 1995.Jim was born and raised in Scappoose, Oregon, and graduated from the University of Ore...
MEXICOFALL ON ROCK, FREE-SOLO CLIMBING, El Potrero Chico, The Scariest Ride in the Park On November 24, Jimmy Rae Forester (43) fell to his death while free-soloing The Scariest Ride in the Park (5.9). He had failed to return to camp and was found...
Rondoy, by David Wall. London: John Murray 1965. 176 pages, 35 illustrations, 3 maps, biographic notes and glossary. Price 30s.In any comprehensive collection of mountaineering books the section devoted to the Andes will be relatively sparse. This...
Staunings Alps, Dansketinde, first ascents of south and southwest ridges. On July 15, Hamish Irvine, Colwyn Jones (Medical Officer), Jonathan Preston, and myself (leader), forming the Scottish Mountaineering Club East Greenland Expedition, were fl...
Cordillera RauraJohn RickerThe following is a chapter from a guidebook in preparation on the Peruvian Andes. Maps and photographs are used especially to establish the positions of mountain features and to give local place names on Quechua and Span...
In October John Kelley and I headed back to Mt. Yukla to climb the North Couloir and check out an appealing smear that intersects that route at two-thirds height. John, Ben Trocki, and I had climbed the North Couloir the previous September, but th...
Snow on the Hills, by Frank S. Smythe. Large 4to., 119 pp., 47 illustrations. London, 1946: A. & C. Black. Price, 25/-.Another book of mountain photographs by Smythe, his seventh. It consists of two essays, “The Beauty of Snow” and “The Photog...