FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTNew Mexico, Sandia Mountains, Gemstone AreaThree friends went out climbing at the Gemstone Area on the climb Seam- ingly Hard, a run-out 5.10, mixed bolted and natural gear seem that is to t...
Grill, genannt Kederbacher, by Fritz Schmitt. 243 pages, with illustrations. Munich : Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1935. Price RM. 3.80.Der Sepp, by Karl Springenschmid. 361 pages. Munich : Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 1935. Price RM. 6.Junger Mensch im...
Dhaulagiri Direct North Face. Rick Allen describes in a full article earlier in the Journal his experiences with a Russian expedition which made a difficult new route on the north face of Dhaulagiri.
A Slender Thread: Escaping Disaster in the Himalaya. Stephen Venables. London: Hutchinson, 2000. Hardcover. 208 pages (copy reviewed). And New York: Thunder’s Mouth Press, 2001. Paperback. 256 pages. $14.95.Stephen Venables’ A Slender Thread: Esca...
Preliminary Scientific Report of the 1959 American Himalayan Expedition. The scientific aims of the party included surveying of the inaccurately mapped area of central Nepal that was visited and reconaissance geology and glaciology. Since the expe...
ANCHOR FAILURE—SLING BURNED THROUGH, INEXPERIENCE California, Yosemite Valley, Reed’s PinnacleOn June 12, 1994, four Swiss climbers were top roping an unnamed 60 foot pitch in the corner formed by the left side of Reeds Pinnacle. Fabian Nuescheler...
First Ascents in the Revelation MountainsDavid S. RobertsOn September 23, 1966, Rick Millikan and Art Davidson made the first ascent of Kichatna Spire, the highest of the spectacular Cathedral Spires. At sunset, standing on the tiny summit of this...
Green Cognac: The Education of a Mountain Fighter. William Lowell Putnam. American Alpine Club Press. New York, 1991. 288 pages, 52 black-and- white photographs, 9 maps. $35.00.Most books and articles about the 10th Mountain Division in World War ...
On July 12 Rentaro Nishijima and the Indian guide Kumchuk Thines made the first ascent of Barma Kangri. High-altitude porter Pemba Norbu, Thines, and I (75 years old) repeated the route on the 17th. We were the first non-Indian party to climb in t...
Cordillera Yarumaria and Artesonraju and Alpamayo, Cordillera Blanca. The Andean expedition of the Aibling Section of the German Alpine Club consisted of Peter Gessner, Helmut Schmidt, Michl Steinbeis, my wife Johanna and me as leader. We left Mun...
Mount Russell, New Era. In October Kim Walker and I climbed this route on Russell’s west face, about 100 feet left of the Rowell-Jones route. Ascend an obvious right-facing book with many cracks on its left wall. The second pitch continues out and...
Kabru IV (7,318m), west face attempt. A Serbian expedition may have been only the third to make a serious attempt on the Nepalese flank of the Kabru Range. The team, led by Dragan Jacimovic, set up Base Camp at ca 4,600m on the moraines of the Yal...
Dawa peak, possible first ascent of west ridge; Pharilapcha, first ascent of east face via The Oracle Night. Three years after I first climbed Pharilapcha (6,017m) via a new route, Bonfire of the Vanities, on the north face (AAJ 2004, pp. 398-400)...
A New Route on Devils Tower, Wyoming. Since the first ascent of the “long column” by F. Wiessner in 1937, all successful activity on Devils Tower has been concentrated on the adjacent “leaning column,” the route pioneered by J. Durrance in 1938. T...
Warlock Needle, South Face. Almost a classic combination of a smooth dome and a pointed spire, the magnificent upthrust in the central portion of the Needles was certainly image-evoking. On my first climbing venture to the attractive group of “new...
Tomaz Humar. Bernadette McDonald. London: Hutchinson, 2008. Hardcover. 244 pages. Cdn $45.95.In The Sun Also Rises Hemingway describes the bullfighter Romero as a man who “never made any contortions, always it was straight and pure and natural in ...
Attempt on Himlung Himal and Ascent of North Peak of Manaslu. Our party was led by Jan Boon and consisted of Fons Driessen, Charles Dufour and me, Netherlanders, and Hubert Schriebl, Austrian. We left Kathmandu with 90 porters on September 6, trav...
Mount Index, East Face of the Middle Peak. To the climbers of the Pacific Northwest the three peaks of Mount Index have always presented a challenge. A series of remarkable and difficult ascents beginning in 1929 culminated with the ascent of the ...
Northwest Cook to Mt. Cook, Traverse. Climbers Greg Brown (Canada), Bertrand Eynard (France), Dave Hildes (Canada), and Alun Hubbard (leader, UK) and crew Chris Barnett, Armel Castello, Tobyn Ross (all from Canada) left Vancouver on June 14 aboard...
JOHN SANFORD HUMPHREYS1933-1967On March 9, 1967, John Humphreys, Eastern Vice-President of the American Alpine Club, was killed near Dayton, Ohio, when the airliner on which he was a passenger collided with a private plane. John is survived by his...