Dawa peak, possible first ascent of west ridge; Pharilapcha, first ascent of east face via The Oracle Night. Three years after I first climbed Pharilapcha (6,017m) via a new route, Bonfire of the Vanities, on the north face (AAJ 2004, pp. 398-400)...
A New Route on Devils Tower, Wyoming. Since the first ascent of the “long column” by F. Wiessner in 1937, all successful activity on Devils Tower has been concentrated on the adjacent “leaning column,” the route pioneered by J. Durrance in 1938. T...
Warlock Needle, South Face. Almost a classic combination of a smooth dome and a pointed spire, the magnificent upthrust in the central portion of the Needles was certainly image-evoking. On my first climbing venture to the attractive group of “new...
Tomaz Humar. Bernadette McDonald. London: Hutchinson, 2008. Hardcover. 244 pages. Cdn $45.95.In The Sun Also Rises Hemingway describes the bullfighter Romero as a man who “never made any contortions, always it was straight and pure and natural in ...
Attempt on Himlung Himal and Ascent of North Peak of Manaslu. Our party was led by Jan Boon and consisted of Fons Driessen, Charles Dufour and me, Netherlanders, and Hubert Schriebl, Austrian. We left Kathmandu with 90 porters on September 6, trav...
Mount Index, East Face of the Middle Peak. To the climbers of the Pacific Northwest the three peaks of Mount Index have always presented a challenge. A series of remarkable and difficult ascents beginning in 1929 culminated with the ascent of the ...
Northwest Cook to Mt. Cook, Traverse. Climbers Greg Brown (Canada), Bertrand Eynard (France), Dave Hildes (Canada), and Alun Hubbard (leader, UK) and crew Chris Barnett, Armel Castello, Tobyn Ross (all from Canada) left Vancouver on June 14 aboard...
JOHN SANFORD HUMPHREYS1933-1967On March 9, 1967, John Humphreys, Eastern Vice-President of the American Alpine Club, was killed near Dayton, Ohio, when the airliner on which he was a passenger collided with a private plane. John is survived by his...
Mount KimballGrace Hoeman“KIMBALL is a tough nut to crack. One may aim the blow by studying photos and maps, reading of previous attempts, careful selection of food and equipment and by flying in close in good weather, but there is no guarantee th...
Barry Corbet 1936-2004“Damn it,” Barry said. I’d just shared my latest ruminations on heroes, and declared him one of them. He squirmed, didn’t like it, said so. One thing that irks wheelchair users, he told me, is to be viewed by “normies” as nee...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. During July Jim LaRue, Jan Olsen and I guided Jeff Blaser, Frank and Marshall Farmer and Colin Steele into the range from San Sebastián. Two other clients dropped out en route to Lago Naboba with altitude problems. Af...
GeographicalDistricts1951-781979NumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta713112711612British Columbia1094420612913Yukon Territory101928202Ontario9314000Quebec7221202East Arctic305100West Ar...
Clearing Garbage from Mount McKinleyTERRY JONES, University of Oregon Outdoor ProgramWE are grateful for the grant from the American Alpine Club Climbing Fellowship Fund, given to support our effort to clean the West Buttress route of Mount McKinl...
Strange and Dangerous Dreams: The Fine Line Between Adventure and Madness. Geoff Powter. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2006. 8 pages of black & white photographs. 245 PAGES. $22.95 HARDCOVER.A bit of ancient wisdom has it that no matter how...
Mount Everest in the Post-Monsoon. A small Indian team came to the north side of Everest during the summer and stayed on well into the autumn. They were at or above basecamp nine weeks in all. Their leader, Atanu Chatterjee, said they were finally...
Manual of Ski Mountaineering, 3rd Edition, edited by David Brower. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1962. 224 pages, 40 photographs, 73 sketches. Price $3.75.The third edition of this fine manual has recently appeared under the Sierra Club imprint. Ori...
Days RememberedJames SimpsonWhen a man becomes a legend in his own time, particularly if he is articulate, he creates his own image for posterity, an autobiography that is unique and not to be improved by others. Jim Simpson was my friend and comp...
Steve House and I climbed the Infinite Spur on June 9 and 10. We carried little in the way of gear, because we are lazy and could not be bothered carrying tents and sleeping bags. This allowed and forced us to move at a steady pace. Our speed was ...
I was suspended in the shade, clenching my upper ice tool with both hands. Behind me, the north face of Cerro Torre beamed in the sun. Deep down below me, the vast icecap met the fjords of Chile, far, far away. The ice vein that wed followed up th...
Newly Opened Peaks in the Nepal Himalaya. The Ministry of Tourism has opened 19 of the less popular Expeditions Peaks to mark the celebration of Visit Nepal Year 1998. These peaks are free of charge in 1998 and 1999, though a Sirdar and permission...