Utah, Wasatch Range, Mt. Timpanogos. On 16 June Richard Smith (16), left around mid-morning to climb some of the couloirs of snow that still existed on the east side of the mountain above his family’s house. He carried a small pack, a lunch, flash...
After three years of attempts, on August 1, Helena Fagundes and Ralf Côrtes established Saracura (6° VII D4 E3 (BR), which could translate to: 540m, 5.11a), on Pedra do Elefante, near the rural village Taquaril in the mountains of Rio de Janeiro. ...
FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 9, 1988, three members of the “Denali Flight 88 Expedition,” Jond Chrosto- phe, Serge Tuaz, and Eric Alamichel (20) left from the 5400 meter camp on the West Buttress route ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, OFF ROUTE–LOST TIME, HASTE, DARKNESSCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Half DomeOn August 19, Robert Kuntz (31) and Ryan Worsham (age unknown) hiked up the slabs approach to the Northwest Face of Half Dome. Th...
New routes and information. A six-member British expedition organized by Sarah Griffin visited the Gigante Grande Group in June and July, establishing base camp at the northern end of Lake Larum Khota. From here they made eight ascents, two of whi...
Mt. Kitchener, East Ridge. We had been attracted by the advantages of a new and shorter route up Mt. Kitchener which would avoid hours of toil on the Athabaska tongue and the Columbia Icefield. In the early hours of July 25 we (Fred Ayres, Don Cla...
The First Ascent of Mt. Rainier by Way of Liberty Ridge on Willis Wall(September 28 - October 1, 1935)Ome DaiberFOR years the north face of Mt. Rainier (Willis Wall and surrounding territory) has stood unconquered. The mere sight of it was enough ...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt. With 36 porters, our six-man expedition reached the Rupal Base Camp on August 31. On September 1, one group with five porters established Camp I at 5100 meters. At that time the conditions were excellent and the s...
Paccharaju and Nevado CopaH. Adams Carter and John S. HumphreysAs I dragged my feet up the last steep pitch of the thousand-foot slope, I wondered wearily how far ahead my crew had gone while I was chopping ice off the rocks at the brook crossing....
El Gran Trono Blanco, Baja California. On March 25 Brian Cox, Werner Landry and I completed a new route on the south face of El Gran Trono Blanco, possibly one of the finest lines of its length in the Cañón Tajo. Henri Agresti, his wife Isabelle a...
With Dave Moles-worth and Misha Sukhorukov I made my second visit to Kyrgyzstan’s mountains, this time exploring the Torugart-too (Khrebet Torugart), which lies close to the Torugart Pass into China. Discovering that Pat Littlejohn’s ISM expeditio...
The historic first ascent of Yosemite Valley’s El Capitan in 1958 opened a new era in Yosemite climbing. In subsequent years, three additional routes, each over 2500 feet in height, were established on the great monolith. El Capitan’s great heig...
Kara-Su Valley, north face of a ridge east of Piramidalny summit. The Karavshin Valley in southern Kyrgyzstan was eerily deserted in the fall. There were no large groups of climbers on the towering granite faces (as in the Soviet era), and no figh...
In February 1953, the Swiss couple, Dr. and Mme. Fred Marmillod and the Argentinians Francisco Ibáñez and Francisco Grajales made the first ascent of the south ridge of Aconcagua (23,036 ft.). The climbers reported that although the route was not ...
To mountaineers the Himalaya means the high snow-clad chain of peaks which stretches 2400 kilometers from Nanga Parbat to Namche Barwa. To the major governments of South Asia, however, the area of primary importance is the plains below the mountai...
Snow Mountains of Irian JayaGeoffrey C. TabinTHERE ARE FEW mountain ranges less known or more interesting than the Snow Mountains of Irian Jaya. Thrusting above the equatorial jungles in the heart of the island of New Guinea, the Snow Mountains co...
Mukut Parbat Attempt. I led a Paratroopers expedition to Mukut Parbat (7242 meters, 23,760 feet) on the Indo-Tibetan border. The mountain had been climbed only once before, by New Zealanders in 1951. They climbed the northwest ridge from the Dakhn...
FALL ON ROCK-DISLOCATED SHOULDERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry SpireAt 1330 on September 11, the Exum Mountain Guides’ office received a call from Guide Gary Falk, guide, on Jensen ridge of Symmetry Spire. Falk stated that a client h...
Wet snow entered the neck of my Gore-Tex. Looking up, my eyes stung with pain as the weather hammered down. I pulled up my hood. I couldn’t help smiling. Out in the mist, ten meters horizontally to the left of me, Gunnar was swinging on the belay-...
Central Borkoldoy, exploration and various first ascents. The central area of the Borkoldoy range in southeast Kyrgyzstan is a group of superb “alpine” peaks that are well-defended on every side by chains of slightly lower mountains. They are nort...