FALL THROUGH CORNICE, FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Spearman PeakKeith Boyer (20), Steve Nickolls (24), and three companions reached the summit of Spearman Peak by the northwest face about 1800 hours on 12 August...
Angel’s Landing, Mostly American Route. It’s getting harder to find a new route on Angel’s Landing. This face inspired some of the first big routes in the park and contains the park’s greatest concentration of wall routes. We had eyed a route on t...
Ketil, West Face, Southwest Greenland, 1984. This giant rock tooth rises above the eastern shore of Tasermiut Fjord near the southern tip of Greenland to a height of 2010 meters (6595 feet). The first ascent was made in 1974 by Austrians by the so...
Pisco West, East Face, Canadian Non-Direct. In May, Chris Geisler and I established the route Canadian Non-Direct (5.9 WI 4+ 90°, 400m) on the east face of Pisco West (5752m) in 12 hours. (This face was climbed in 1977 by John Bouchard and Marie M...
Cerro Arenas, 1985. On December 29, 1985, Ricardo Jara made the first solo ascent of the 1200-meter rock south face of Cerro Arenas. He made the climb free without a rope or any belaying in eight hours. (UIAA V and VI.) (This climb was repeated in...
The northeast arête of Vermilion Peak (13,870 ft.) was done by L. Giesecke and the writer. This climb (not very long) is rather nasty because of the loose rock encountered.Bob Scott and L. Giesecke made the first ascent of the peak V 4 (13,500 ft....
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On 28 July Conrad Fenwick (19) and Peter Pfeifer (19) were climbing up the first snowfield and couloir leading to the notch between the East Prong and Mt. Owen. Fenwick was leading up the rock along the snow. Th...
Satopanth and Shivling. A Japanese expedition of eleven led by Hisao Seki set up Base Camp at Nandanban on July 31. They then established Advance Base, Camps I, II and III at 15,900, 16,750, 19,000 and 20,675 feet on August 6,7, 12 and 17 respecti...
Canyonlands National Park. The Monument Basin Towers are located off the White Rim of the park. A number of climbs were made there. Staggering Rock (IV, 5.9, A3, 3 pitches) by Strappo and Crusher; The Meemohive (IV, 5.9+, A2,4 pitches) by Crusher ...
Gyachung Kang, Attempts. Two teams went to the 7952-meter Gyachung Kang, which stands on the Nepalese-Tibetan border between Cho Oyu and Everest, this autumn. It is very seldom attempted by climbers—probably partly because it is nearly 8000 meters...
Peaks in the Cordilleras Apolobamba and Real. The Jubilee Expedition of the Schorndorf Section of the German Alpine Club had as members Ernst Dreiseitel, Rolf Gölz, Ernst Henninger, Siegfried Härer, Ulrich Jaudas, Wolfgang Lutz, Richard Reif, and ...
Cerro Grande, South Spur. On February 21, Italian Casimiro Ferrari completed a new route on Cerro Grande (2804 meters, 9200 feet) alone, although he had been accompanied for the first 650 of the 850 vertical meters by a relatively inexperienced yo...
Mount Snoqualmie—On April 18, 1954, William A. Degenhardt (45) and two women Mountaineers were climbing Mt. Snoqualmie, 6300 feet on skis. The party members were experienced ski mountaineers and in good physical condition.Snow and weather conditio...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, UNPLANNED BIVOUAC, MISUNDERSTANDING OF RATING SYSTEM, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Arizona, Canyon Spring Wall, De GraziaThe purpose of the trip (on December 2, 1992) was to complete a multi-pitch climb. De Grazia was selected bec...
K2 Attempt. Swiss Jean Troillet and I made what hardly can be called an attempt on K2 from the west since the weather was so bad. During 42 days at Base Camp, it actually snowed for 30 with 10 to 15 centimeters of new snow each morning.Wojciech Ku...
Crystalline Group: (All first ascents.) A substantially glaciated peak several miles south of the main chain (probably Thorington’s "Unnamed (9300)") ; a traverse of the eastern rim of the southwest drainage of the southern end of the chain, inclu...
Cho Oyu, West side from the North, Ascents and Attempts, Post-Monsoon. An international expedition that climbed Cho Oyu’s western side from Tibet was led by Frenchman (Corsican) Hughes Griscelli. There were 2 French, 4 Italian, 2 Spanish and 1 Pol...
Barbican. In mid-August Don Jensen, Frank Sarnquist and I climbed Barbican by the west ridge, a new route. From Tonquin Valley the ridge was gained via the right hand of two prominent snow gullies which lead up from the right side of the west face...
Aguja de la S. This formation, although the smallest granite peak in the Fitz Roy area, offers superb climbing on both its eastern 1,500-foot face and its western 3,000-foot face. While it is believed there have been only a handful of ascents of t...
Washintgon, Northen Cascades, Red Face Mountain—On August 29, 25 persons, members of the Whatcom Pass Outing sponsored by the Sierra Club, were climbing Red Face Mountain. Some of the group were experienced climbers, others were not, but all were ...