ACUTE ABDOMENAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 2, at 2100, Tom Bohanon of the “Three Guys on Denali” expedition came to the ranger camp at 14,200 feet complaining of hematemesis (vomiting blood). Bohanon was examined and diagnosed as ha...
1938 Expeditions. A seventh expedition to Everest will leave early in the spring of 1938 under the leadership of H. W. Tilman. A small Austrian expedition under the leadership of Rudolf Schwarzgruber is understood to be projected also for this spr...
Ganesh V. An expedition of 7 Slovenes led by Stane Belak established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4150, 5150 and 6000 meters. They followed the 1989 Nepalese-Japanese route on Ganesh V as far as Camp II. On November 13, Belak and Tomaž Humar cl...
A Lifelong Love Affair with the Mountains. John Filsinger. A. G. Halldin Publishing Co., Inc., Indiana, PA 15701, 1991. 380 pages, 944 photos (301 in color). $29.95.This profusely illustrated book is a personal document covering a half-century of ...
In spring 2009, while climbing Jobo Rinjang with Joe Puryear, I saw for the first time Pangbuk Ri. With a massive dual summit and steep flanks on the Nepalese side, it presented an alluring objective. Two years later I had the privilege of returni...
Washington, Hozameen Peak—On August 22, in good weather, a party of four climbers, all from Vancouver, British Columbia departed fromCamp Hozameen on Ross Lake in northwest Washington to climb Hoza- meen Peak about two miles south of the Canadian ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDCalifornia, South Sierra Nevada, Spanish NeedlesFrank Riseley (45) was showing Explorer Scouts how to downclimb a pitch. His feet slipped and his handhold was too weak. He fell five feet, jammed his left foot into a c...
On July 2, Todd Marshall (34) was leading the seventh pitch of Petit Grepon South Face (III, 5.8). At 1900, Marshall topped out on the spur ledge below the summit, stood up with arms upraised, and gave a, “Hurray,” and got blown off by a strong gu...
Moose’s Tooth and HuntingtonJames Quirk, UnaffiliatedDAVE NETTLE AND I hadn’t been in Talkeetna for more than ten minutes when we descended on the bar at the Fairview Inn. One of the folks present was Doug Geeting, our pilot. We mentioned to him t...
Makalu, winter solo attempt and tragedy. The well-known French mountaineer, Jean-Christophe Lafaille, 40 years old, vanished on January 27, 2006, while attempting to make an entirely solo ascent of Makalu (8,485m), the world’s fifth highest mounta...
Colorado, Third Flatiron. On July 30, Dennis Dreher (18), Evans Winner (28), and Roy Rieckus (19) were descending the Third Flatiron in the face of an impending storm. Dreher rappelled down their ascent route, the east face. The rappel was fixed a...
FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, BAD WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mt. McKinleyMike McCoomb (21) was a member of the three-man “Bronze Carabiner Expedition” on the West Buttress of Mt. McKinley. They flew to Kahiltna Glacier on May 4 to begin thei...
INADEQUATE FOOD AND WATER, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressShigeo Tamoi (33) began his solo climb of Mount McKinley’s West Buttress on May 28. He ascended to the 14,200-foot camp in three days and then he acclimatized for three ...
Granitic Peaks of KirgiziaMark Bebie and Tom Hargis with Igor Tsaruk, St. PetersburgMICHAEL GRABER WROTE in Ascent of 1980, “God went nuts when He created the Cathedral Spires,” and halfway around the world from Alaska, this statement applies equa...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1985. There were no winter ascents of Mount McKinley or adjacent peaks during 1985. A Japanese team, filming a movie about Naomi Uemura, made this season’s first ascent. Their large filming...
Torres del Paine*Ramiro Calvo, Club Andino Bariloche, Argentinain PUERTO NATALES WE SET ABOUT GETTING PERMISSIONS. The Chilean officials try to explain that problems are to be solved without haste. Our anxiety accelerates the slowness, but at the ...
Ruth Gorge, ascents and attempts. The popularity of the Ruth Gorge continued, with many routes seeing ascents. The oft-attempted Cobra Pillar (VI 5.10+ A3, Donini-Tackle, 1991) on Mt. Barrill finally was repeated in June, by two parties. Canadians...
Over three trips in October and November, Aaron Mulkey and I looked for ice and mixed climbs in the Beartooths. We managed a major route each trip, which made the long and remote approaches worthwhile. After speaking with several Beartooth c...
FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOAT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn June 18, 1982, 24 members of a geology field trip from Western Illinois University hiked to the base of Hidden Falls on the west side of Jenny Lake. Upon arriving at...
HANDHOLD CAME OFF–FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INEXPERIENCE, FAULTY INSTRUCTIONWashington, WilkesonOn July 7, I (25) took S.P. (22), my girlfriend of a year, for a day of instructional rock climbing and rappelling. I have been rock climbing for...