Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Michael Dacher and Peter Habeler reached the summit of Nanga Parbat via the Diamir Face on July 12. Their first attempt failed in bad weather about 650 feet from the top on July 6 in very severe weather. This was the eig...
Sierra Juárez, Baja California, New Routes. El Gato: This hatchetlike rock tower east of the final half-mile of road from El Progreso mine to El Gran Trono was climbed by John Long and me. We ascended the north face, ending at the upper west corne...
Cerros de Llanganati Traverse. Luis Durand, Jorge Pérez and I headed in January for the Cerros de Llanganati, a row of rock peaks in eastern Ecuador. Its highest point, Cerro Hermoso, had been climbed a few times and several of the peaks had been ...
Colorado Mountain Club. Snowmass Lake in the Elk Mountains near Aspen was the site of the two-weeks outing. This was the Club’s sixth outing at Snowmass. Since the first one in 1922 a Snowmass outing has been part of the heritage of every generati...
Abi Gamin. A 20-member team from the Indian Army Armored Corps was led by Lieutenant Colonel B.S. Varma. Base Camp was set up at Vasudharatal on May 30. On July 1, Captains M.S. Dhami, R.A. Khan, V.K. Vaid, Lieutenants Parminder Singh, Sriram, M.B...
Peril Peak, Western Chugach. Nick Parker and Yoshio Inukai between July 10 and 12 made the second ascent of Peril Peak (7020 feet), which lies up the Eklutna Glacier, by a new and difficult route. They gained the south ridge at its junction with t...
Tirich Mir West III. Organized by the Groupe Universitaire de Montagne et de Ski, we had as our goal the ascent of one of the last two 7000-meter peaks of the Hindu Kush, either Tirich Mir West II or III, both about 7400 meters or 24,279 feet. Led...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. Eight Australians, two New Zealanders and a Briton, led by Australian Zac Zaharias, had hoped to climb the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri but they reached only a high point of 7600 meters on May 20.Elizabeth Hawley
Pangnirtung Area, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. While conducting geologic fieldwork aided by an American Alpine Club Scientific Grant, P.T. Davis (Institute of Arctic and Alpine Research; University of Colorado, Boulder) and I undertook the...
Tengkangpoche (6,487m), northeast face, Moonlight. In November Hiroyoshi Manome and Yasushi Okada made the long-awaited first ascent of the northeast face of Tengkangpoche. The pair, who in 2006 made the third ascent of Meru Central, made base cam...
Mount Powell, Broken Rainbow Route. Kim Walker and I climbed this route up the east face of Mount Powell. Climb a crack straight up to an obvious large, orange bulge about half-way up the face, then traverse left and ascend the crack that forms th...
Mount Darwin, Southwest Arête. While camped at Evolution Lake in July, I noticed a surprisingly clean and well-defined granite arête on the 13,831-foot Mt. Darwin’s jumbled and broken southern wall. The arête rises continuously apart from the main...
Hanuman. This 19,903-foot peak, which lies on the northern rim of the peaks which surround Nanda Devi, turned back W. H. Murray’s Scottish expedition in 1950, when they were stopped by a 400-foot drop off the back side of a rock tower only 900 fee...
Mount Hoffman, Crimson Corner and Hoffman’s Turret. To the right of the Merle-Alley route on the north face of Mount Hoffman is a large, left-facing, reddish-stained comer starting about 200 feet off the ground. Two pitches led to the base of the ...
Mt. Messines, 10,290 ft. First ascent, July 15. D. Duncan, A. Megrew. Following ascent of Mt. Cambrai.
"Shey Shikhar," Various Ascents. In September and October my team explored a remote region of the Kanji Roba Himal in the Dolpo region of northwestern Nepal. I spent over a year attempting to procure a permit for a never-attempted mountain called ...
Nevado de Putre. The first reported ascent of Nevado de Putre or Tarapacá (5830 meters, 19,128 feet), located 30 miles east of Arica, was accomplished by a large group of trekkers led by F. Mira, of the Club Aguila Azul. The glaciated volcano Pari...
Aconcagua, Southeast Ridge, Second Ascent. Spaniards Xabier Erro, Martín Zabaleta and Juan Hugas made the second ascent of the southeast ridge of Aconcagua, which was first climbed in 1953 by the Swiss couple Marmillod, Argentines Grajales and Lie...
Mt. McKinley, Light Traveler; Mt. Hunter, Moonflower Buttress; Mini-Moonflower, Luna. In mid- June American Stephen Koch and Slovenian Marko Prezelj established Light Traveler on Mt. McKinley’s southwest face in a 51-hour round-trip from the 14,20...
The northeast face of Ken Minaret features a sharp ridge that leads directly to the summit. In August 2008 Kevin Hartigan and I climbed nine pitches (Broken Rib, 5.9) along this prominent rib in a long day from Devil’s Postpile. We enjoyed grea...