Cerro Paniri. Claudio Lucero and Nelson Muñoz ascended this 5940-meter volcano (19,488 feet) in December 1972 and located on the top, as expected, traces of Indian occupancy. The peak is situated a few miles north of the old Atacameñan villages of...
Dhaulagiri East Face. We were Janusz Gniadek, Zbigniew Kacuga, Dariusz Pi?tak and I as leader from Poland and Belgian Ingrid Baeyens and German Rüdiger Schleypen. Lots of snow stopped us very low, at the Italian Base Camp at 3700 meters below the ...
Mount Prindle, Southeast Buttress, The Fleecing of America. As Eric Sloan and I drove north from Fairbanks the July rain got worse—a relief for me. The mere thought of humping an aid rack into Mount Prindle made my legs quiver. Unfortunately, by t...
Middle Palisade (14,049 ft.) On July 30th, 1933, Jules Eichorn and Glen Dawson made the first ascent of the northwest ridge of this peak by traversing from the second peak of the Middle Palisade. Previously ascents have been made up the original F...
Hengduan Range, Crown Mountain, possible first ascent. During the end of January 2001 I reached the top of a beautiful 5100m peak (according to my altimeter) in the north west of the Yunnan province in China. The peak can be approached from the ro...
Saraghrar and Other Peaks, Hindu Kush. Our expedition was composed of Anita Burkhardt-Fendt, Klaus Cramer, Adolf Rottach, Tobias Ametsbichler and me as leader and until August 10 Dr. Ulrich Schmidt-Riese. We traveled via Dir, the Lowari Pass and C...
Colorado, Turkey Creek practice rocks—This accident occurred during May, 1956, on one of the regularly scheduled field trips of the Colorado Mountain Club’s technical climbing school. A beginning group of about 10 people under the supervision of L...
MISUSE OF BELAYING DEVICE—Ontario, Milton, Rattlesnake Point. Dave Embury (35) was climbing third on the rope of a 5.5 route in May 1974. His belayer was a Sticht Plate. About 20 feet from the top, Dave asked for tension to rest. His belayer agree...
DEHYDRATION, HEAT EXHAUSTIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 1, around 2330, Robert Paige (28) called 7,200 foot base camp, saying he was sick and could not stop vomiting. Base camp manager Anne Duquette told him that he should take fl...
Ascent of P 5495 and Attempt on P 5956, Sokha Glacier, Baltistan. Our expedition was made up by Chris Howarth, Mick Wringley and me. We traveled by jeep from Skardu to the roadhead at Doko and walked for 3½ days via Bisil to the junction of the So...
Siniolchu. This outstandingly beautiful mountain was ascended again this past summer. A group of three German climbers, Ludwig Schmaderer, Herbert Paidar, and Ernst Grob, made a trip through the Sikkim Himalaya in September, 1937, during which the...
Langtang Lirung, Winter Attempt. Another team of three Japanese and one Nepalese, led by Ichiro Hosoda, arrived at their 4200-meter Base Camp on December 11,16 days after the others. They used their compatriots’ ropes. They pitched Advance Base ne...
Grand Teton, Squeeze Box to junction with Hossack-MacGowan. On February 6,2007 Hans Johnstone and I climbed Squeeze Box (1,000', IV M7 A0), a new route [climbed to easy snow near the intersection with the Hossack-MacGowan Couloir—Ed.] on the north...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, TIME OF DAYBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount RobsonOn August 31, Richard Denker (48) and Bob Breivogel (52) were making their way up the Robson Glacier to the Dome. At 1645 whil...
Kusum Kanguru East, Northeast Ridge. Guy Neithardt, Swiss, and Andrew Wielochowski, British, made the first ascent of the northeast ridge of Kusum Känguru East and the fifth ascent of the summit on September 16. The two other members, Richard Back...
Teton Notes—1932Despite reduced travel to the park, thirty-nine ascents were made. The earliest was on June 23 (Prospectors Mountain), the latest on September 18 (Veiled Peak), and twenty-one out of the thirty-nine were made in August. Climbs were...
Swiss Cho Oyu Attempt. Leader Norbert Joos, Peter Alig and Louis Deuber were defeated by dangerous snow conditions on this attempt on Cho Oyu’s southeast face. They reached 7600 meters on September 20 but were forced to retreat. They had had four ...
Chachacomani. Our expedition was composed of Eddie Boulton, Peter Delmissier, Steve Norris, Kevin Spooner, Bill Bays, Bill Wolf and me as leader. With five herdsmen from the Janko Khota region and 49 llamas, we approached the Chachacomani-Chearoco...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. Frenchmen Eric Beaud, Victor Lant and François Marsigny arrived at Base Camp on August 2. From August 13 to 18 they made a summit push on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat and reached 23,000 feet before they had to quit. Two we...
Südtirol, by Josef Weingartner. 170 pages, with 33 color plates, 100 text illustrations by Robert Zinner. Vienna: Adolf Holz hausens Mfg., 1950. Price, $5.00.In a readable text Weingartner describes the Eisach and Puster valleys, the Dolomites, th...