Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Lirung, Winter Attempt

Langtang Lirung, Winter Attempt. Another team of three Japanese and one Nepalese, led by Ichiro Hosoda, arrived at their 4200-meter Base Camp on December 11,16 days after the others. They used their compatriots’ ropes. They pitched Advance Base ne...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, Squeeze Box to Junction with Hassack-MacGowan

Grand Teton, Squeeze Box to junction with Hossack-MacGowan. On February 6,2007 Hans Johnstone and I climbed Squeeze Box (1,000', IV M7 A0), a new route [climbed to easy snow near the intersection with the Hossack-MacGowan Couloir—Ed.] on the north...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse, Placed Inadequate Protection, Time of Day, British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount Robson

FALL INTO CREVASSE, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, TIME OF DAYBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount RobsonOn August 31, Richard Denker (48) and Bob Breivogel (52) were making their way up the Robson Glacier to the Dome. At 1645 whil...


Club Activities AAJ
Memphis Mountaineers, Inc.

Kusum Kanguru East, Northeast Ridge. Guy Neithardt, Swiss, and Andrew Wielochowski, British, made the first ascent of the northeast ridge of Kusum Känguru East and the fifth ascent of the summit on September 16. The two other members, Richard Back...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Teton Notes—1932

Teton Notes—1932Despite reduced travel to the park, thirty-nine ascents were made. The earliest was on June 23 (Prospectors Mountain), the latest on September 18 (Veiled Peak), and twenty-one out of the thirty-nine were made in August. Climbs were...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Swiss Cho Oyu Attempt

Swiss Cho Oyu Attempt. Leader Norbert Joos, Peter Alig and Louis Deuber were defeated by dangerous snow conditions on this attempt on Cho Oyu’s southeast face. They reached 7600 meters on September 20 but were forced to retreat. They had had four ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Chachacomani

Chachacomani. Our expedition was composed of Eddie Boulton, Peter Delmissier, Steve Norris, Kevin Spooner, Bill Bays, Bill Wolf and me as leader. With five herdsmen from the Janko Khota region and 49 llamas, we approached the Chachacomani-Chearoco...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Attempt

Nanga Parbat Attempt. Frenchmen Eric Beaud, Victor Lant and François Marsigny arrived at Base Camp on August 2. From August 13 to 18 they made a summit push on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat and reached 23,000 feet before they had to quit. Two we...


Book Reviews AAJ
Südtiroler

Südtirol, by Josef Weingartner. 170 pages, with 33 color plates, 100 text illustrations by Robert Zinner. Vienna: Adolf Holz hausens Mfg., 1950. Price, $5.00.In a readable text Weingartner describes the Eisach and Puster valleys, the Dolomites, th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Michael Dacher and Peter Habeler reached the summit of Nanga Parbat via the Diamir Face on July 12. Their first attempt failed in bad weather about 650 feet from the top on July 6 in very severe weather. This was the eig...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Baja California—Sierra Juarez, New Routes, El Gato

Sierra Juárez, Baja California, New Routes. El Gato: This hatchetlike rock tower east of the final half-mile of road from El Progreso mine to El Gran Trono was climbed by John Long and me. We ascended the north face, ending at the upper west corne...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Cerros de Llanganti Traverse

Cerros de Llanganati Traverse. Luis Durand, Jorge Pérez and I headed in January for the Cerros de Llanganati, a row of rock peaks in eastern Ecuador. Its highest point, Cerro Hermoso, had been climbed a few times and several of the peaks had been ...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. Snowmass Lake in the Elk Mountains near Aspen was the site of the two-weeks outing. This was the Club’s sixth outing at Snowmass. Since the first one in 1922 a Snowmass outing has been part of the heritage of every generati...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Abi Gamin

Abi Gamin. A 20-member team from the Indian Army Armored Corps was led by Lieutenant Colonel B.S. Varma. Base Camp was set up at Vasudharatal on May 30. On July 1, Captains M.S. Dhami, R.A. Khan, V.K. Vaid, Lieutenants Parminder Singh, Sriram, M.B...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Peril Peak, Western Chugach

Peril Peak, Western Chugach. Nick Parker and Yoshio Inukai between July 10 and 12 made the second ascent of Peril Peak (7020 feet), which lies up the Eklutna Glacier, by a new and difficult route. They gained the south ridge at its junction with t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir West III

Tirich Mir West III. Organized by the Groupe Universitaire de Montagne et de Ski, we had as our goal the ascent of one of the last two 7000-meter peaks of the Hindu Kush, either Tirich Mir West II or III, both about 7400 meters or 24,279 feet. Led...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri Attempt

Dhaulagiri Attempt. Eight Australians, two New Zealanders and a Briton, led by Australian Zac Zaharias, had hoped to climb the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri but they reached only a high point of 7600 meters on May 20.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Pangnirtung Area, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island

Pangnirtung Area, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. While conducting geologic fieldwork aided by an American Alpine Club Scientific Grant, P.T. Davis (Institute of Arctic and Alpine Research; University of Colorado, Boulder) and I undertook the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal, Tengkangpoche (6,487m), Northeast Face, Moonlight

Tengkangpoche (6,487m), northeast face, Moonlight. In November Hiroyoshi Manome and Yasushi Okada made the long-awaited first ascent of the northeast face of Tengkangpoche. The pair, who in 2006 made the third ascent of Meru Central, made base cam...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mount Powell, Broken Rainbow Route

Mount Powell, Broken Rainbow Route. Kim Walker and I climbed this route up the east face of Mount Powell. Climb a crack straight up to an obvious large, orange bulge about half-way up the face, then traverse left and ascend the crack that forms th...