BAD WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount RainierOn January 20, 1981, two missing mountain climbers were successfully airlifted from the summit of Mount Rainier to safety. They had been nearly four days overdue in returning from their cli...
Kun. Our expedition had six members: Jan Mikeska, leader, Jan Jursa, Jan Matúš, František Polášek, Jirí Novotný and me. On September 9 we ascended for the first time with loads to Base Camp at 14,750 feet beside the Shafat Glacier. In the followin...
Chianti Spire, East Face. “Let’s see, the slide is here somewhere. …It’s an outer space-like hand crack . . . Looks fantastic! I wonder how steep that direct start is.” Once below the spire we changed our plans: “…It would be nice to get there dir...
Colorado, North Maroon Peak. On 22 April, Joe Fullop (19), Richard Alan Cole (19), and Ronald Fjeseth (19), left Gunnison at about 6:00 p.m. They drove that evening to the Maroon Lake Campground. They had sleeping bags and slept at the Campground....
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Garibaldi Provincial ParkOn September 1, 1985, two hikers left Black Tusk Meadows to scramble up Black Tusk (2200 meters). The night before, they had seen a P...
Titan, Fisher Towers, Sundevil Chimney. On April 28 Harvey T. Carter, Robert Sullivan, Tom Merrill and Ken Wyrick completed an eight-day, eleven-pitch new route on the Titan. This very direct and largely overhanging crack and chimney system rises ...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. We were Beda Fuster, Werner Steininger and I as leader. We got to Base Camp on September 21 at 5350 meters on the moraine between Lhotse Shar and Imjatse (Island Peak). We carried loads up the rocky spur to 5750 meters for thr...
Pili and Aguas Calientes. Sergio Kunstmann and Pedro Rosende, of the Santiago section of the Club Andino de Chile, carried out two expeditions to 19,830-foot-high Pili, the fine conical volcano which the Incas also knew as Acaramachi, the “rock sn...
Torre Norte del Paine, 1989. We arrived at Base Camp at 650 meters at the Italian Camp on December 8, 1989. On December 15, Ricardo Salsi and I left Base Camp shortly after midnight and in 12 hours reached the summit of the Torre Norte in the Pain...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWyoming, Devils TowerThis accident happened in 1986, but the details were not sent in until after publication last year.Scott Hardy (16) was soloing the Durrance Route on Devils Tower when he fell out of the...
Huandoy Sur, South Buttress. The Salzburger Expedition had as its goal Huandoy Sur’s 4000-foot-high south buttress. (Climbed by Americans H. Abrons, T. Frost, H. and J. Kendall, I. and L. Ortenburger in 1964 and Argentines Fonrouge and Suárez in 1...
Lover's Leap, Wet Mountains, “Dull Roar of the Putterman.” The Wet Mountains are probably the most beautiful Front Range climbing area that remain free of the massive crowds of climbers. In 1986 during a visit to the Crestone group, I got my first...
Swargarohini Attempts. Briton Nicholas Banks and a companion failed on the northern approaches of difficult Swargarohini (6252 meters, 20,512 feet). They established three camps during continuous bad weather and made final attempts between May 25 ...
Mazamas. The Mazamas, of Portland, Ore., held their 55th Annual Outing in 1948, from July 25th to August 8th, at Park Creek Pass in the Chelan Mountains of Washington. Inclement weather hampered the mountaineering program somewhat, but the followi...
A primarily French commercial expedition led by Paulo Grobel to 7,047m Gyajikang made the second recorded ascent of the mountain, via a partial new route, the West Ridge Integral. The first ascent of the peak was made in October 1994 by a large Ja...
Stoves for Expedition UseRichard WilcoxWHEN WELL-KNOWN French climber, Yves Astier wrote Adams Carter asking him what high-altitude climbers in the United States thought about the stoves that should be used on expeditions, Carter felt that a poll ...
Chopicalqui, West-Northwest Spur. Our team was composed of Martine Rolland, the first women in France to be granted a guide’s license, her husband Jean-Jacques Rolland, Englishman Alan Roberts and me. We first climbed the southeast ridge of Pisco,...
Colorado Mountain Club, 1947. The Colorado Mountain Club enjoyed a very active year, with trips scheduled practically every week end. Skiing trips occupied first place during the winter season and, among the diehards, extended even into early summ...
Micah Dash 1977–2009In late spring 2009, Micah Dash, a 32-year old professional climber, died in a massive avalanche while climbing the east face of Mt. Edgar (6,618m), on the Gongga Shan massif, located in western Sichuan Province, China. The abo...
Mount Moran, Various Ascents. In July, I soloed South Buttress Drifter (V 5.10c) on the South Buttress of Mt. Moran. The route weaves through roof bands 150 feet right of the South Buttress Right. Three days and five nights were spent putting in t...