Appalachian Mountain Club. Club members climbed in almost all mountain ranges of the world during the year 1961 with particular emphasis, as always, in the mountains of North America.The Club’s membership rose to new levels with an increase of sev...
Apsarasas. The highest point of Apsarasas (7131 meters, 23,396 feet) * was gained on September 18 by two groups of an Indian Army team led by Brigadier K.N. Thadani. Seven members reached the summit at eleven A.M. and eight at 6:15 P.M. despite ba...
Mt. Shkhara, North Face, New Route. Mt. Shkhara (5068m) lies in the Besengi region of the Central Caucasus. Valery Shamalo and Robert Krymskiy from St. Petersburg climbed a new route via the north face through the so-called “Bottle” from July 22-2...
Alpamayo Norte. The Italians Giancarlo Frigieri, Ferdinando Nusdeo, Gianni Arcari, Carlo Casati and Angelo Erba climbed the north summit of Alpamayo by the north ridge on August 17. They did not continue the traverse to the highest summit.César Mo...
DEHYDRATION, EXHAUSTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn August 4,1985, about 1000, Mike Corbet reported to John Dill at the Park SAR Cache, that they had heard Chuck Goldmann (35), who was soloing the Dihedral Wall on El Capi- tan, yelling for water ...
Pik Kommunizma. In 1978, a seven-member team of Americans consisting of Dana Isherwood, leader, Gil Harder, Maynard Cohick, Richard Soaper, Sallie Greenwood, Diana Dee and Errol Flagor joined the Russian International Climbing Camp in the Pamir to...
El Cerro Blanco, Irritilas (Nómadas) and Lluvia de Estrellas. This is a brief account about the lovely land and people of the states of Durango and Coahuila, México. Desert lands with multicolored sunrises and sunsets and incomparable beauty. The ...
Snowpatch Spire, Direct East Face, Bugaboos. We dragged ourselves to the bottom of the steep, blank climb, a short haul from Boulder Dump. I’d been up those first overhangs before, nailing with Roper years ago. A big snow forced us down (actually ...
McKinley, Descent from Windy Corner 1989. In June, 1989, Mugs Stump, Paul Fitzgerald and I descended the ridge that starts at Windy Comer and runs down to the junction of the northeast fork and the main Kahiltna Glacier. We descended this in order...
Colorado, Long's Peak. On 27 January James Disney (28), Ken Paine (29), Ken Landis (40), and Richard Kezlan (32) were making a winter ascent of Kiener’s Route on the east face of Long’s Peak (for the purpose of making special interest news broadca...
On June 28, Oskar Alexandersson and I made the first free ascent of Life Is Beautiful (VI 5.9 A2+, 600m, Suzuki-Yamaoka, 2000) at 5.13-or F7c+. Both of us led and followed free in a 19-hour push. I had tried to free climb the route the previous su...
Pumori, Southeast Face to Northeast Ridge. Our multi-national team of friends consisted of Australian Geoffrey Bartram, Englishman Chris Curry, Americans Peter Getzels, Steve Amstutz, Robert Schreiber and me, and Nepalese Narayan Shrestha. Our rou...
La Huasteca, Abuelo Fuego. Tatewari is a stunning 550-meter limestone wall in the Canon de Escaleras, near Monterrey. After the 2001 sport-climb first ascent by Carlos Garcia and Francisco Trad, in June 2002 a group of locals (Francisco Medina, Pa...
Annapurna Northwest Ridge Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Jean-Paul Vion, Georges Payot, Godefroy Perroux, François Marsigny, Benoît Grison, Jacques Latarjet and me as leader. Our expedition was the excuse for Maurice Herzog’s ...
Indrasan and Deo Tibba. The Kansai Ganpo Kai expedition, led by Seiichi Asanome, successfully made a new route, the south face of Indra-san (20,410 feet), on May 18. Deo Tibba (19,688 feet) was also climbed some days before by some of the party.Ic...
Pissis-Bonete region, various activity. In March, Andrés Fabeiro and I were transported to the slopes of Cerro Pilar (erroneously stated on the official map as Cerro Azul). We erected camp on a barren desert not far from Laguna Brava. My friend ha...
Shiva, Himachal Pradesh. Our Japanese all-women’s expedition climbed Shiva (6142 meters, 20,150 feet). Base Camp was at 4200 meters south of Shiva. We placed Camp I at 4700 meters at the end of the south glacier on August 10. To reach Camp II at 5...
Mt. Tupungato, first winter ascent. Mt. Tupungato (6,570m) stands in front of Santiago, Chile, on the border with Argentina. It is famous for its bad weather, being swept every day by furious western winds, moistened by Santiago’s smog.After an in...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1982, with membership growing to 1100. Nearly 450 members participated in one of the courses, the mountaineering camps, or the foreign expeditions that were one to four weeks in length. ...
Who wouldn’t jump at the chance to establish a granite big-wall route on an uninhabited island, with crystal clear water in the inlet and a 100' approach to the base across a white sand beach? From June 25 to 28 Mike Brumbaugh, Andrew Burr, Brian ...