FALL ON SNOW, SPRAIN/STRAINAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThe “To Zee Top” expedition started their attempt of the West Buttress on June 9 and proceeded on a normal schedule for the climb. After spending several days at...
Kahiltna Peak, Mount Crosson and other first ascents. Only one party had previously walked the entire length of the Kahiltna Glacier; that was six years ago when time restrictions prevented their doing any climbing on the way. (Beckey, Harrer and ...
“Bhrikuti, ” Ascent. Identifying mountains in remote parts of Nepal is not always easy, as a Spanish post-monsoon expedition to Bhrikuti (6364m) in north-central Nepal learned. The few maps of the area that exist have many mistakes, and the local ...
Cerro Trinidad, Water Music. Cerro Trinidad dominates the Cochamó Valley. A German team, supported by British climbers Tony and Sarah Whitehouse, put up a new free-climb- ing route in the center of the big, challenging northwest face of Cerro Trin...
Attempt on Mount McKinley. On June 25 an eight-man expedition sponsored by The Mountaineers, consisting of Jon Hisey, Jerry Cate, Alan Van Buskirk, Larry Heggerness, Aldon Haug, LeRoy Annis, Larry Annis, and Kenn Carpenter (leader), arrived at McG...
Ogre II, Southeast Ridge, Attempt. The team was supposed to be composed of Luca Maspes (leader), Maurizio Giordani, Mauro Girardi, Emanuele Pellizzari, Natale Villa and Maurizio Venzo. One week before leaving, our “leader” decided, for lack of mot...
Ohmi Kangri. The Nepalese-American Ohmi Kangri Expedition was the first American group to visit this area of northeastern Nepal on the Tibetan border. Our leaders were Rick Richards and Sangya Dorje. We left Basantipur on April 9. The first nine d...
Climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park, 1975. Ever since David Rearick and Bob Kamps in 1960 first climbed the Longs Peak Diamond, the impressive alpine wall has been appreciated both as a test piece and for its esthetic qualities. Other firsts si...
Everest. Ours was the first Everest expedition to consist solely of climbers from the Northeast of North America. We were Mark Richey, climbing leader, Marc Chavin, Barry Rugo, Gary Scott, Dr. Michael Sinclair, Dr. Richard St. Onge, Québecois Yves...
OVERDUE BACKCOUNTRY SKIER, MISCOMMUNICATION Washington, Olympic Peninsula and Cascade RangeIn late April 1988, Craig Peterson (32) left his housemates a note that he would be hiking and cross country skiing on the Olympic Peninsula. When he did no...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT-QUAL1TY OF ROCKUtah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Hellgate CliffsOn August 4, Daniel Filler (21) suffered a 15 to 20 foot ground-fall at Hellgate Cliffs in Little Cottonwood Canyon. He was climbing Dark Star (5.12a...
Haucaña, Cordillera Real. A South African expedition approached the Ancohuma massif from Milibaya. They went by road to the 13,000-foot Mina San Antonio, southeast of the Milibaya road and followed a trail for a mile to the glacier which descends ...
Aguja de la S and Aguja Kakito, 1994. On January 24, 1994, Kako Pardiñas and I made what may be a new route which traverses the southeast face. The six pitches ascend easy blocks with one more difficult pitch. On February 12, we made the first asc...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND INSTRUCTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Washington, Stevens Pass Ski AreaWhile practicing head-first glissade and self-arrest procedures with a group of 40 students and 14 staff from an Everett...
FALL ON SNOWColorado, Capitol Peak, Northwest RidgeOn Friday July 10, James Flowers (47), an experienced climber from Colorado Springs, and his partner set out to climb the Northwest Ridge of Capitol Peak (14,130 feet), one of the most challenging...
Vom Berge Verschlungen in Bücher bewahrt, by Helmut Presser. Bern: Schweizerischen Gutenberg Museums, 1957. 27 pages; ills. Price Sw. fr. 4.50.On August 25 (old style), 1618, the village of Plurs, near Chiavenna in the Bregaglia valley, was destro...
Mt. Rainier National Park (4) Echo Peak—On August 8, 1954, on a Tacoma Mountaineer scheduled climb of Echo Peak in Mt. Rainier National Park, a guest was struck on the head by a falling rock. He was climbing in a narrow gully fifteen feet from the...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn February 1, 1992, Michael Gardiner (31) fell while leading the Hobbit Roof (5.10). Gardiner's top piece of protection, a #2 Friend, pulled out, so he fell 30 fe...
An Austrian expedition was composed of leader Edi Koblmüller, Hans Bärnthaler, Robert Strouhal, Gustav Ammerer, Herbert Hutar, Dr. Herbert Habersack and Maila Pemba Sherpa. They had hoped to climb K2 by its east face but terrible weather prevent...
Golden Sentinel, north ridge, east face; The Chessboard. In August 2007 the Curbatt Group from the Menaggio section of the Italian Alpine Club celebrated its 25th anniversary by an expedition to the Suru Valley, where we hoped to climb a virgin su...