Pumori, Southeast Face to Northeast Ridge. Our multi-national team of friends consisted of Australian Geoffrey Bartram, Englishman Chris Curry, Americans Peter Getzels, Steve Amstutz, Robert Schreiber and me, and Nepalese Narayan Shrestha. Our rou...
La Huasteca, Abuelo Fuego. Tatewari is a stunning 550-meter limestone wall in the Canon de Escaleras, near Monterrey. After the 2001 sport-climb first ascent by Carlos Garcia and Francisco Trad, in June 2002 a group of locals (Francisco Medina, Pa...
Annapurna Northwest Ridge Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Jean-Paul Vion, Georges Payot, Godefroy Perroux, François Marsigny, Benoît Grison, Jacques Latarjet and me as leader. Our expedition was the excuse for Maurice Herzog’s ...
Indrasan and Deo Tibba. The Kansai Ganpo Kai expedition, led by Seiichi Asanome, successfully made a new route, the south face of Indra-san (20,410 feet), on May 18. Deo Tibba (19,688 feet) was also climbed some days before by some of the party.Ic...
Pissis-Bonete region, various activity. In March, Andrés Fabeiro and I were transported to the slopes of Cerro Pilar (erroneously stated on the official map as Cerro Azul). We erected camp on a barren desert not far from Laguna Brava. My friend ha...
Shiva, Himachal Pradesh. Our Japanese all-women’s expedition climbed Shiva (6142 meters, 20,150 feet). Base Camp was at 4200 meters south of Shiva. We placed Camp I at 4700 meters at the end of the south glacier on August 10. To reach Camp II at 5...
Mt. Tupungato, first winter ascent. Mt. Tupungato (6,570m) stands in front of Santiago, Chile, on the border with Argentina. It is famous for its bad weather, being swept every day by furious western winds, moistened by Santiago’s smog.After an in...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1982, with membership growing to 1100. Nearly 450 members participated in one of the courses, the mountaineering camps, or the foreign expeditions that were one to four weeks in length. ...
Who wouldn’t jump at the chance to establish a granite big-wall route on an uninhabited island, with crystal clear water in the inlet and a 100' approach to the base across a white sand beach? From June 25 to 28 Mike Brumbaugh, Andrew Burr, Brian ...
Cerro Paniri. Claudio Lucero and Nelson Muñoz ascended this 5940-meter volcano (19,488 feet) in December 1972 and located on the top, as expected, traces of Indian occupancy. The peak is situated a few miles north of the old Atacameñan villages of...
Dhaulagiri East Face. We were Janusz Gniadek, Zbigniew Kacuga, Dariusz Pi?tak and I as leader from Poland and Belgian Ingrid Baeyens and German Rüdiger Schleypen. Lots of snow stopped us very low, at the Italian Base Camp at 3700 meters below the ...
Mount Prindle, Southeast Buttress, The Fleecing of America. As Eric Sloan and I drove north from Fairbanks the July rain got worse—a relief for me. The mere thought of humping an aid rack into Mount Prindle made my legs quiver. Unfortunately, by t...
Middle Palisade (14,049 ft.) On July 30th, 1933, Jules Eichorn and Glen Dawson made the first ascent of the northwest ridge of this peak by traversing from the second peak of the Middle Palisade. Previously ascents have been made up the original F...
Hengduan Range, Crown Mountain, possible first ascent. During the end of January 2001 I reached the top of a beautiful 5100m peak (according to my altimeter) in the north west of the Yunnan province in China. The peak can be approached from the ro...
Saraghrar and Other Peaks, Hindu Kush. Our expedition was composed of Anita Burkhardt-Fendt, Klaus Cramer, Adolf Rottach, Tobias Ametsbichler and me as leader and until August 10 Dr. Ulrich Schmidt-Riese. We traveled via Dir, the Lowari Pass and C...
Colorado, Turkey Creek practice rocks—This accident occurred during May, 1956, on one of the regularly scheduled field trips of the Colorado Mountain Club’s technical climbing school. A beginning group of about 10 people under the supervision of L...
MISUSE OF BELAYING DEVICE—Ontario, Milton, Rattlesnake Point. Dave Embury (35) was climbing third on the rope of a 5.5 route in May 1974. His belayer was a Sticht Plate. About 20 feet from the top, Dave asked for tension to rest. His belayer agree...
DEHYDRATION, HEAT EXHAUSTIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 1, around 2330, Robert Paige (28) called 7,200 foot base camp, saying he was sick and could not stop vomiting. Base camp manager Anne Duquette told him that he should take fl...
Ascent of P 5495 and Attempt on P 5956, Sokha Glacier, Baltistan. Our expedition was made up by Chris Howarth, Mick Wringley and me. We traveled by jeep from Skardu to the roadhead at Doko and walked for 3½ days via Bisil to the junction of the So...
Siniolchu. This outstandingly beautiful mountain was ascended again this past summer. A group of three German climbers, Ludwig Schmaderer, Herbert Paidar, and Ernst Grob, made a trip through the Sikkim Himalaya in September, 1937, during which the...