Cerro Mascara, The Magic Carpet Ride. During the months of January and February, 1999, Conny Amelunxen and I completed the first ascent of the 800-meter east face of The Mummer (Cerro Mascara) in the Bader Valley of Torres del Paine in Chile. This...
“Leaning Tower,” Jemez Mountains. Though they appear relatively gentle from the distance, the Jemez Mountains have many canyons, towers and crags and offer many climbing possibilities. In the Las Conchas area, rhyolite crags rise as high as 200 f...
Cerro Natividad and Other Ascents, 1990-1. On March 19, 1990, four Argentine climbers led by Antonio Beorchia made the second ascent of the highest point of the Cordon de Manrique (5026 meters, 16,490 feet). On the summit, Boerchia found pieces of...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD—FALLING ROCK, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Grotto CanyonOn August 4, 1990, off-duty ranger M.S. was climbing with a partner in Grotto Canyon, when they found D.K. stranded on a ledge some 20 meter...
Rakaposhi Attempt. A Japanese expedition from Meiji University was composed of Munehiko Yamamoto, leader, Atsushi Yamamoto and Hiroshi Ohishi. They attempted the east ridge, also tried by Edi Koblmüller in 1985, who got only to the east peak. Afte...
Langtang Lirung Tragedy. An eight-member Japanese expedition from Hosei University in Tokyo attempting Langtang Lirung via the southeast ridge ended in tragedy. On March 29, four climbers ascending to Camp I at 5600 meters were struck by a huge av...
Dhaulagiri, West Face. Our team from Kazakhstan sent ten members to the summit of Dhaulagiri by a difficult new route on the west face. They were climbing leader Yervand Ilinsky, Yuri Moiseev, Andrei Tselishchev, Anatoli Bukreev, Vladimir Sugiva, ...
Lamjung. Koaru Kikuchi and Kiyotaka Uetake climbed Lamjung (22,921 feet) on October 20. Masanobu Osakin, Dr. Yasuo Abe and Sherpa sirdar Lobsang Tenzing repeated the summit climb on October 21. The six-man Japanese team was led by Yoichi Yamakura....
Artist’s Tears, Moab. Along the Colorado River, three miles east on Highway 128 from the junction of 163, there is an obvious northwest- facing, overhanging wall with black and brown streaks sweeping across what appears to be a totally featureless...
Cho Oyu. During three days, several expeditions successfully climbed Cho Oyu via the west ridge and west face from the north. An expedition led by Alberto Bianchi put Italian Albert Brugger and Luxembourger Roland Zeyen on the summit on September ...
Midnight Rock, South Ramp. The longest route on the rock, the South Ramp, is a continuation of a climb begun a few years ago by Ed Cooper. Dave Beckstead and I did the whole climb in two days. A number of wide angles were required and we put in an...
Hollywood Note. The sound-track for cracking ice and sliding glaciers is the squeal of a pig run backwards.
Everest, Other Pre-monsoon North-Col Ascents and Attempt. An expedition of eight Chinese and eight Taiwanese was led by Chinese Zeng Shu-Sheng and Taiwanese Mrs. Lee Chengyen. On May 5, Chinese Chhimi, Gyatso, Khetsun, Phubu and Wang Yong-Feng and...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT-PITONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Ha Ling PeakOn September 12, J. M., F. K. and S. K. were climbing the Northeast Ridge of Ha Ling Peak near Canmore. J. M. was leading the third last pitch when he experienced some ...
Bhagirathi IV Attempt. My expedition to India with Silvo Karo was foiled by paperwork. We arrived in Delhi on August 28 and proceeded to make preparations for our trip into the Garhwal Himalaya, where we intended to attempt a big wall route on the...
Artesonraju, Southwest Face, Ski Descent. Our expedition was made up of Mssrs. Paret, Cortial, Chartier and me. After failing to climb Quitaraju and climbing Huascarán, on July 13 I climbed Artesonraju and made the first ski descent of the southwe...
Artesonraju, Aguja Nevada I and II, Huandoy Norte. The members of our expedition included Dave Marvin, Tom Schwarm, Peter Prandoni, Andy Tuthill, Josh Lieberman and me*. In late June we entered the Quebrada Santa Cruz and set up Base Camp below Al...
Charles B. Newhall, accompanied by Dr. Alexander Forbes and B. M. Smith, made a partial ascent of Blacktooth (13,104 ft.) in the Big Horn mountains of Wyoming, reaching an elevation of about 12,600 ft., which they believe to be the highest point o...
Bezingi Wall. José Bermúdez and Mark Gray made an alpine-style traverse of the ridge from Dykh-Tau (5198 meters) to Mishirgi East (4918 meters) between July 28 and August 5, crossing summits of Dykh-Tau (5198 meters), Pik Pushkin (5100 meters), Ba...
Ascarani and Soral Groups, Apolobamba Region and Illimani, Cordil- lero Real. As far as we know, we were the first Americans to visit the Macara valley, which lies between the Ascarani and Soral Este groups in the Nudo de Apolobamba. From a base c...