Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Attempts on Unclimbed Peaks Pasang Lhamu and Cho Polu

Attempts on Unclimbed Peaks Pasang Lhamu and Cho Polu. Plans to make the first ascents of two peaks by any routes failed. The highest of these, Jasamba (7351 meters), on a ridge just south of Cho Oyu (officially renamed Pasang Lhamu Peak in honor ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Chilean Reconnaissance in the Cordillera Huayhuash

Chilean Reconnaissance in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Five climbers affiliated with the Federación de Andinismo took part in an expedition of reconnaissance and exploration in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Our specific mission was to locate a mountain r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Columbia Peak, South Ridge

Columbia Peak, South Ridge. This often-climbed peak in the famous Monte Cristo area has a spectacular mile-long, steep-walled South Ridge that is probably photographed by nearly every party to climb the mountain. On September 12, from a high camp ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia and the Canadian Rockies, Unnamed Peak N.E. of Mt. Erasmus

Unnamed Peak N. E. of Mt. Erasmus. This mountain (about 10,400 ft.), prominently visible from the Banff-Jasper Highway N. of the Saskatchewan Bridge, was climbed on 28 June 1951 by A. E. Creswell and Fred Ayres. It stands just across the river fro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Haystack Mountain

Haystack Mountain. Haystack mountain is a long north-south ridge with a buttress at the north end where the valley floor drops away. There were two grade-IV routes on the north end and several easier 5th-class routes further south but nothing in b...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Little

FALLING ROCKAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount LittleOn August 29, a party of four was ascending the normal route on Mount Little during an Association of Canadian Mountain Guides Assistant Alpine Guide exam. Two candidates were roped together an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Northern and Central Chile, Peaks in Los Tilos Valley

Peaks in Los Tilos Valley. A total of 31 mountaineers belonging to five different regional asociaciones (branches) of the Federatión de Andinismo de Chile entered from the coastal town of La Serena into the Pastos Largos region and explored the va...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Nevada de los Tambillos, 1976, Northern Andes

Nevado de los Tambillos, 1976. Northern Andes. Unreported until recently, an Argentinian expedition had made on March 12, 1976 the second ascent of Nevado de los Tambillos (5800 meters, 19,029 feet), located on the Chilean-Argentinian border, nort...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Hunter, Wall of Shadows Variation; Mt. McKinley, Common Knowledge

Mt. Hunter, Wall of Shadows Variation; Mt. McKinley, Common Knowledge. British climbers Ben Gilmore and Kevin Mahoney made the second ascent, with a variant start, of Wall of Shadows (VI, WI6 mixed, 5.9 A2), the Child-Kennedy 1994 route on the nor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Ritter, West Arête United States, California, Sierra Nevada

The west escarpment of Mt. Ritter (13,157') stretches over the headwaters of the San Joaquin River. This impressive wall is steep and the rock suspect, but an arête leading from Ritter Lakes basin to the summit too hard to resist, especial...

| Keywords Mt. Ritter, West Arête, Claude Fiddler
| Published 2009 | Author Claude Fiddler, AAC


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Moditse or Annapurna South

Moditse or Annapurna South. A French expedition put Gérard Devou- assoux and Maurice Gicquel onto the summit of Moditse or Annapurna South (23,600 feet) on October 27. They climbed it from the south with a bivouac above their 22,500-feet camp. The...


Accident Reports ANAM
Failure of Rappel, No Hard Hat, Inadequate Protection, Inexperience

FAILURE OF RAPPEL, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsAround 4:30 p.m. on September 7, 1981, Joe Bailey (23) was descending from the summit of Nez Perce. He set up a rappel at 11,500 feet despite the fact that his partn...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Oregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier Headwall

FALL ON ROCKOregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier HeadwallOn June 20, James Frankenfield (39) and Iain Morris (23) were on the Sandy Glacier Headwall route on Mount Hood. At 0730, while traversing above the glacier to the headwall, they were involved ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Noshaq, North Face

Noshaq, North Face. The Konstanz Hindu Kush Expedition was made up of Dr. Wolfgang Heydenreich, Matthias Avirovic, Hans Christoph Engele, Helmut Rüdele and me as leader. We approached Base Camp at the foot of the western buttress with 27 porters o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Central Karakoram, Nameless Tower, Yugoslav Route

Nameless Tower, Yugoslav Route. The Scandinavian Trango Expedition (Jan Stenstrom, leader; Magnus Nilsson, Jon Haukassveen, Torbjom Ohlén, Fredrik Schlyter, Bo Strand, videofilm, and Anders Schmidt, doctor) climbed the 1987 Yugoslav route on the s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Coast Ranges, Lillooet Icecap Area

Lillooet Icecap Area. For Centennial Year the British Columbia Mountaineering Club decided on a ski-mountaineering expedition. On April 29 seven members of the club were flown to a 7500-foot pass west of the Manatee Glacier. This rugged little are...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Ingolffjeld, North Face Attempt, East Greenland

Ingolffjeld, North Face Attempt, East Greenland. Our expedition was composed of Slovene Peter Podgornik, Italians Ferruccio Svaluto Moreolo, Pierantonio Zago, Sergio De Longhi and me as leader. We hoped to climb for the first time the north face o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Arizona, Superstition Mountain, West Face

Superstition Mountain, West Face. From the vicinity of Blue Bird Mine Kris Walker and I approached the obvious Flatiron Buttress by hiking up the Syphon Draw trail. The route we climbed on February 27, 1971 ascends the obvious prow. A general sele...


In Memoriam AAJ
Robert P. Broughton

ROBERT P. BROUGHTONRobert P. Broughton was a Professor of Law at the Duquesne University School of Law. He taught basic property law and related courses. He was the author of Measures of Property Rights (The Boxwood Press, 1977), which is a study ...


Club Activities AAJ
Appalachian Mountain Club

Appalachian Mountain Club. Club members climbed in almost all mountain ranges of the world during the year 1961 with particular emphasis, as always, in the mountains of North America.The Club’s membership rose to new levels with an increase of sev...