Moditse or Annapurna South. A French expedition put Gérard Devou- assoux and Maurice Gicquel onto the summit of Moditse or Annapurna South (23,600 feet) on October 27. They climbed it from the south with a bivouac above their 22,500-feet camp. The...
FAILURE OF RAPPEL, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsAround 4:30 p.m. on September 7, 1981, Joe Bailey (23) was descending from the summit of Nez Perce. He set up a rappel at 11,500 feet despite the fact that his partn...
FALL ON ROCKOregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier HeadwallOn June 20, James Frankenfield (39) and Iain Morris (23) were on the Sandy Glacier Headwall route on Mount Hood. At 0730, while traversing above the glacier to the headwall, they were involved ...
Noshaq, North Face. The Konstanz Hindu Kush Expedition was made up of Dr. Wolfgang Heydenreich, Matthias Avirovic, Hans Christoph Engele, Helmut Rüdele and me as leader. We approached Base Camp at the foot of the western buttress with 27 porters o...
Nameless Tower, Yugoslav Route. The Scandinavian Trango Expedition (Jan Stenstrom, leader; Magnus Nilsson, Jon Haukassveen, Torbjom Ohlén, Fredrik Schlyter, Bo Strand, videofilm, and Anders Schmidt, doctor) climbed the 1987 Yugoslav route on the s...
Lillooet Icecap Area. For Centennial Year the British Columbia Mountaineering Club decided on a ski-mountaineering expedition. On April 29 seven members of the club were flown to a 7500-foot pass west of the Manatee Glacier. This rugged little are...
Ingolffjeld, North Face Attempt, East Greenland. Our expedition was composed of Slovene Peter Podgornik, Italians Ferruccio Svaluto Moreolo, Pierantonio Zago, Sergio De Longhi and me as leader. We hoped to climb for the first time the north face o...
Superstition Mountain, West Face. From the vicinity of Blue Bird Mine Kris Walker and I approached the obvious Flatiron Buttress by hiking up the Syphon Draw trail. The route we climbed on February 27, 1971 ascends the obvious prow. A general sele...
ROBERT P. BROUGHTONRobert P. Broughton was a Professor of Law at the Duquesne University School of Law. He taught basic property law and related courses. He was the author of Measures of Property Rights (The Boxwood Press, 1977), which is a study ...
Appalachian Mountain Club. Club members climbed in almost all mountain ranges of the world during the year 1961 with particular emphasis, as always, in the mountains of North America.The Club’s membership rose to new levels with an increase of sev...
Apsarasas. The highest point of Apsarasas (7131 meters, 23,396 feet) * was gained on September 18 by two groups of an Indian Army team led by Brigadier K.N. Thadani. Seven members reached the summit at eleven A.M. and eight at 6:15 P.M. despite ba...
Mt. Shkhara, North Face, New Route. Mt. Shkhara (5068m) lies in the Besengi region of the Central Caucasus. Valery Shamalo and Robert Krymskiy from St. Petersburg climbed a new route via the north face through the so-called “Bottle” from July 22-2...
Alpamayo Norte. The Italians Giancarlo Frigieri, Ferdinando Nusdeo, Gianni Arcari, Carlo Casati and Angelo Erba climbed the north summit of Alpamayo by the north ridge on August 17. They did not continue the traverse to the highest summit.César Mo...
DEHYDRATION, EXHAUSTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn August 4,1985, about 1000, Mike Corbet reported to John Dill at the Park SAR Cache, that they had heard Chuck Goldmann (35), who was soloing the Dihedral Wall on El Capi- tan, yelling for water ...
Pik Kommunizma. In 1978, a seven-member team of Americans consisting of Dana Isherwood, leader, Gil Harder, Maynard Cohick, Richard Soaper, Sallie Greenwood, Diana Dee and Errol Flagor joined the Russian International Climbing Camp in the Pamir to...
El Cerro Blanco, Irritilas (Nómadas) and Lluvia de Estrellas. This is a brief account about the lovely land and people of the states of Durango and Coahuila, México. Desert lands with multicolored sunrises and sunsets and incomparable beauty. The ...
Snowpatch Spire, Direct East Face, Bugaboos. We dragged ourselves to the bottom of the steep, blank climb, a short haul from Boulder Dump. I’d been up those first overhangs before, nailing with Roper years ago. A big snow forced us down (actually ...
McKinley, Descent from Windy Corner 1989. In June, 1989, Mugs Stump, Paul Fitzgerald and I descended the ridge that starts at Windy Comer and runs down to the junction of the northeast fork and the main Kahiltna Glacier. We descended this in order...
Colorado, Long's Peak. On 27 January James Disney (28), Ken Paine (29), Ken Landis (40), and Richard Kezlan (32) were making a winter ascent of Kiener’s Route on the east face of Long’s Peak (for the purpose of making special interest news broadca...
On June 28, Oskar Alexandersson and I made the first free ascent of Life Is Beautiful (VI 5.9 A2+, 600m, Suzuki-Yamaoka, 2000) at 5.13-or F7c+. Both of us led and followed free in a 19-hour push. I had tried to free climb the route the previous su...