Annapurna, Two Winter Attempts. Japanese led by Kuniaki Yagihara on the south face of Annapurna got to 7200 meters before too much heavy snowfall sent them back. On the north face Koreans led by An Chang-Yeul attempted the Dutch route. They claim ...
Bighorn and Cloud Peaks, Bighorn Range. The northeast face of Bighorn Peak is a two-mile-long convoluted rock wall embracing two cirques. We have found no record of ascent. On August 13 I climbed the southern-most cirque wall, up a prominent orang...
Oregon: (1) Cascades. John Howard, leader of a Mazama party, fell twelve feet while rappelling from the summit of Three Fingered Jack. The boulder to which the rappel rope was secured gave way. His injuries consisted of two sprained ankles.Source ...
HYPERVENTILATION-INDUCED CEREBELLAR ISCHEMIA (HICI)Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 30, 1989, the Penns Woods Expedition flew to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to ascend the West Buttress route of Mount McKinley. The party arrived at the...
K2. After a period of acclimatization, two Basques, Mari Abrego and Josema Casimiro, officially members of Renato Casarotto’s expedition but climbing independently, made a swift, illegal ascent of the Abruzzi Ridge of K2 in a five-day alpine-style...
Wrangell Mountains Traverse, 1993. During the whole of June, 1993, Charlie Wolf, Matthew Goewert and Minot Meser made a traverse of the Wrangell Mountains from west to east. They were ferried by plane to the valley between Sanford and Drum. From t...
HANDHOLD PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION (CHOCK PULLED)Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise Area, Rack of the Lake CragOn September 1, 1991, Andrew S. and his friend were rock climbing at the Back of the Lake. Andrew fell when a h...
Sosbun Spires Attempt and P 5890 Ascent. Heinz Zak, Toni Ponholzer, Dietmar Sinnhuber, Rudi Sailer, Michael Larcher, Hans Ganzberger and I as leader were in the Sosbun valley from May 15 to the end of June. We had hoped to climb some of the 1200-m...
Singhi Kangri second ascent, and other peaks on the Siachen Glacier. It is reported that an Indian Army expedition, organized by the Corps of Engineers and led by Col. Dinesh Kumar, made the second ascent of 7751m Singhi Kangri close to the head o...
Tilitso Attempts. Briton Matthew Dower led six climbers on an attempt on the south ridge to the south face of Tilitso (7134 meters, 23,406 feet). They got to 6500 meters on October 20. French led by Guy Abert tried the northeast spur and reached 6...
Peak 6,920m, first ascent. A four-man Russian team comprising Valeri Bagov, Ivan Dusharin, Viktor Kolesnichenko, and (Russian-American) Lev Yoffe, made the first ascent of the unnamed Pk 6,920m, which lies on or close to the watershed ridge betwee...
Tirich Mir Attempt. Bill Dunaway, Chuck Hall, Fritz Stammberger, Vern Read and I attempted the South Barum Glacier route followed by the successful Norwegian party in 1950. We organized the trip in less than a month. After leaving Aspen on May 5, ...
Cho Oyu in Winter, 1993. An expedition of six Spaniards, a Swiss woman and an Argentine was led by Manuel González. They made two successful summit climbs from Camp IV on the normal route. They made Base Camp on January 13, 1993 very low, at only ...
Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows. Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein. Chock- stone Press, Denver, 1986. 140 pages, black and white photographs, line drawings. $13.95 (paper).This is an excellent revision of the authors’ 1983 guidebook, and it should be...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Icicle River Canyon, Snow LakesOn July 31, 1993, Rolf Sonnerup (28) was climbing on a popular rock face across the road from the Snow Lakes trailhead. His partner was 50 feet above Sonnerup and dislodged a rock that struck ...
Konwakiton Glacier was described and mapped by the early writers, but its lower portion as well as what is now Mud Creek Glacier were overlooked, apparently because they were covered with ash. At that time these glaciers must have been united and ...
Peaks in Pik Kommunizma Area. Between July 15 and August 12, Ace Kvale and I climbed in the Pik Kommunizma area of the Pamirs. We arrived in the Moskvina Base Camp by helicopter four days after leaving Paris. After a brief period of acclimatizatio...
Washington, Mt. Johannesburg—On 1 Sept., Tom Gibbon (33) an experienced climber was injured by a falling rock. While descending a steep heather slope on Johannesburg Mine trail on the N.W. flank and entering a rock and dirt couloir the party of fo...
FALL/SLIP ON ICE, BAD WEATHER—New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Huntington Ravine. Rick Welch (21) had soloed Pinnacle and was descending. He wanted to descend Lions Head to Tuck Trail but wind was so strong he decided to descend Central Gully. One-t...
Cho Oyu, Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt from the North. There were four successful expeditions that climbed Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,904 feet) by the normal west-face route. Eight Koreans led by Kim Kwan-Jun put Koreans Nam Sun- Woo, Kim Young-T...