This peak, adjacent to Mount Rainier, is pyramid shaped and composed of disintegrating volcanic rock. The north face has long been considered a suicide route. Few climbers have seriously probed for a way up, since the steep, 2000-foot rock- and sn...
New peaks for the autumn of 2002. To coincide with the start of the post-monsoon season 2002 the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation announced that the following 13 mountains were being added to the existing list of peaks permitted for...
P 5730, Chugach Range. On July 7, 1965 the Spaniard Venancio López de Ceballos and the Alaskan John Samuelson made the first ascent of a minor peak of some 5750 feet above the Harriman Glacier at 60°53'45" N. and 148°36'30" W. They were landed by ...
Kakhari, Hindu Raj. Our 1973 expedition consisted of Karl-Heinz Boss, leader, Erich Fend, Peter Trappel, Manfred Bilger and me. After an approach by the Ushu valley we placed Base Camp on the east bank of the Kachhikhani Glacier. We made three asc...
Tilitso Attempt. Eleven Greeks under the leadership of Stratos Paraskevaides attempted to climb Tilitso by its northeast spur and north ridge but could get to only 5800 meters on October 23.Elizabeth Hawley
A.A.C., Cascade Section. 1987 marked another glorious year of mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest. Yakima, east of the Cascade crest, recorded 100 days without rain. Had it not been for the serious implications of the fine, stable weather, i.e...
Peak 5,607m, northwest face, attempt. Our small expedition arrived at base camp on July 22, hoping to make the first free ascent of Lobsang Spire (5,707m) by a new route on the south face. After a reconnaissance, we abandoned this plan, feeling th...
Bastion and Other Peaks, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. In May and June Sam Crymble, Alan Kimber, Terry Smith and I were west of the head of Kingnait Fiord in the Cumberland Peninsula, based on what is unofficially called “South America Lake...
Ascents of Cone and Dome Peaks and Gunnbjorns. The first Spanish Expedition to the Gunnbjorns Fjeld went to Greenland with the goal of climbing to the top of the highest summit of the Arctic. The team was: Jake Molins, Marc Bernat, Monica Belengue...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED OUTWashington, Stuart Range, Colchuck PeakOn June 21, 1992, Kevin Coplin (36) and Allan G. Fries (46), two experienced climbers, fell to their death while ascending Colchuck Peak. What ...
FALL ON ROCK, POOR COMMUNICATIONVirginia, Shenandoah National Park, Old Rag MountainLate on Sunday afternoon June 5, Old Rag Mountain Stewards staff was getting ready to start scenario training when a call came into the park that Dave Rockwell (50...
Tengkangpoche (6,487m), northwest face, attempts. In early November Silvestre Barrientos, Manuel Cordova, and Sidarta Gallego almost repeated the 2004 route, Edge of Darkness (not to summit), on the northwest face, then west ridge, of Tengkangpoch...
Great Days in New Zealand Mountaineering, by John Pascoe. London: Bailey Bros, and Swinfin Ltd., 1958. 199 pages; 27 photographs, 20 maps. Price 21s.It is always a pleasure to read the recollections of a mountaineer about his own homeland mountain...
Isosceles Peak, West Face. In August Allan Pietrasanta and I made the first ascent of this face, the one for which the peak is named. Our line follows the central crack and chimney system that almost perfectly bisects the isosceles triangle. NCCS ...
Evolution Peaks, Grand Traverse. The Evolution Peaks were judged to be the scenic culmination of the High Sierra by the 19th century scrambler Theodore Solomons, who named them after the great evolutionary scientists and thinkers of the time. Loca...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, NO HARD HATNew Hampshire, Rattlesnake MountainOn March 16, 1994, Stephen Williams (27) fell 90 feet from a climb on Rattlesnake Mountain, near Rumney, fracturing his pelvis and suffering other injuries tha...
Garuda Bank. In May I took five undergraduate students of St. Stephens College, Dehli University, Ashok Chakravarti, Amrish Thomas, Gursev Singh, Sandeep Bagchi and Verhese Varkki, on a training expedition; only a couple of them had had previous e...
Daxuetang-feng (5,364m), second ascent, new route. Daxuetang-feng is a well-known mountain visible from the road from Chengdu to Balang Pass (south of Rilong and the Siguiniang massif). More than 10 Chinese teams have tried to climb this peak. On ...
Finger Dome, South Face, 1981. When making the hike from near Wishon Dam to Crown Valley, the usual route to Tehepite Dome and the Obelisk, the seemingly misplaced rock formation of Finger Dome is a magnet to the eye. Not knowing of any visitation...
SLIP ON SNOW, COLLAPSED SNOW LEDGE Alaska, Mt. McKinleyOn May 22, 1979, Ken Currens (25) and Jack Tackle (25) were climbing at 10,000 feet on the southwest face of Mt. McKinley. Their route was a ridge on the west wall of the Northwest Spur of the...