A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. During 1955 the Sierra Nevada Section held four meetings, all of them in Berkeley. Talks were given in March by Nick Clinch and Bob Brooke on the 1954 Coast Range Expedition near Mt. Waddington; in May by Nello Pace ...
El Gran Trono Blanco, north face, Deep Throat Route. A Thanksgiving Day snowstorm in Baja? Iced-over granite and quagmire roads make this an undesirable situation, but we found the line of our choice— a seven-pitch continuous crack system beginnin...
Wyoming—Grand Teton National Park (2): James B. Ayer and Robert Saltonstall both 41 started a climb from Hidden Falls at 1 P. M. on Saturday, August 16, 1952. They both wore rubber soled boots, and carried an extra sweater and chocolate. They had ...
Chimborazo Avalanche Tragedy. On November 10, a number of climbers left the Whymper Hut on Chimborazo to climb to the summit. A French guide, Bruno Douillet, and eight clients set out for the summit, but three of them turned back in the cold. Anot...
RESCUE OPERATIONS NEW TRENDS IN MOUNTAIN RESCUEThe application of modern communication systems and the helicopter to mountain rescue problems have completely revolutionized the movement in the last decade. Now it appears that a new revolution may ...
Cho Oyu Ascent and Paraglider Descent. After seven Sherpas joined us on August 25, we settled Base Camp that same day at the tongue of the Gyabrag Glacier at 4950 meters. We were Kazuyuki Takahashi, Akio Hayakawa, Kenji Kondo, Tomoji Kato, co-lead...
Appalachian Mountain Club. During the year the Club’s trail system was put into good shape and several shelters were rebuilt. A new shelter was built at Ethan Pond to fill in a gap on the Appalachian Trail, where an overnight provision was needed....
ROPE PARTED (WORN THROUGH ON ROCK EDGE WHILE JUMARRING), FALL ON ROCK British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Stawamus ChiefOn April 8, 1992, Grace W. left her climbing partner near the south summit of Stawamus Chief in order to examine a wall for new ...
Abi Gamin, 1988. An Indian expedition led by Bilwanath Ghosh climbed Abi Gamin. Camp V was established at 22,400 feet on September 15, 1988. After a day confined to their tents by the weather, on the 17th, Miss Anita Sarkar and Sherpas Kami and Ph...
Rakaposhi, southwest spur, attempt; Neyzah Peak, first ascent. In July our team of ten Catalans and one Basque traveled to Pakistan planning to climb Rakaposhi (7,788m). Conditions on the southwest spur, first climbed in 1958 by a British-Pakistan...
This peak, adjacent to Mount Rainier, is pyramid shaped and composed of disintegrating volcanic rock. The north face has long been considered a suicide route. Few climbers have seriously probed for a way up, since the steep, 2000-foot rock- and sn...
New peaks for the autumn of 2002. To coincide with the start of the post-monsoon season 2002 the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation announced that the following 13 mountains were being added to the existing list of peaks permitted for...
P 5730, Chugach Range. On July 7, 1965 the Spaniard Venancio López de Ceballos and the Alaskan John Samuelson made the first ascent of a minor peak of some 5750 feet above the Harriman Glacier at 60°53'45" N. and 148°36'30" W. They were landed by ...
Kakhari, Hindu Raj. Our 1973 expedition consisted of Karl-Heinz Boss, leader, Erich Fend, Peter Trappel, Manfred Bilger and me. After an approach by the Ushu valley we placed Base Camp on the east bank of the Kachhikhani Glacier. We made three asc...
Tilitso Attempt. Eleven Greeks under the leadership of Stratos Paraskevaides attempted to climb Tilitso by its northeast spur and north ridge but could get to only 5800 meters on October 23.Elizabeth Hawley
A.A.C., Cascade Section. 1987 marked another glorious year of mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest. Yakima, east of the Cascade crest, recorded 100 days without rain. Had it not been for the serious implications of the fine, stable weather, i.e...
Peak 5,607m, northwest face, attempt. Our small expedition arrived at base camp on July 22, hoping to make the first free ascent of Lobsang Spire (5,707m) by a new route on the south face. After a reconnaissance, we abandoned this plan, feeling th...
Bastion and Other Peaks, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. In May and June Sam Crymble, Alan Kimber, Terry Smith and I were west of the head of Kingnait Fiord in the Cumberland Peninsula, based on what is unofficially called “South America Lake...
Ascents of Cone and Dome Peaks and Gunnbjorns. The first Spanish Expedition to the Gunnbjorns Fjeld went to Greenland with the goal of climbing to the top of the highest summit of the Arctic. The team was: Jake Molins, Marc Bernat, Monica Belengue...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED OUTWashington, Stuart Range, Colchuck PeakOn June 21, 1992, Kevin Coplin (36) and Allan G. Fries (46), two experienced climbers, fell to their death while ascending Colchuck Peak. What ...