STRANDED–RAPPEL ROPE TOO SHORTArizona, Camelback MountainOn March 15, a person who wishes to remain anonymous was attempting to rappel from a rock face that is 400 feet high. He started rappelling, and when he got close to the end of his rope, he ...
Chulu West, Annapurna Himal. The westernmost summit (21,300 feet) of Chulu was climbed on November 4 by Mountain Travel Sirdar Lhakpa Nuru, Ang Jangbo Sherpa, Dr. Larry Zaroff and me. This peak is best viewed from the Thorong La; it is the summit ...
Aguja Saint Exupery, Condorito. Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold and Edbert Dozenkaff did the first ascent of Condorito (5.12d A2, 400m + 300m via the Buscaini route) on the southeast face of Aguja Saint Exupery. Jens Richter and Rainer Treppter did the ...
White Chuck Mountain, South Face. On August 31, Ted Carpenter, Mike Heath, and I made the first ascent of the south face on this often climbed peak located some 10 miles east-southeast of Darrington. From the basin on the west side of the peak, wh...
Langtang Lirung Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Mike Stead, Nick Groves, John Marjot, Dr. Neil Harding-Roberts, Rod Mackenzie and me, British, Shana Parent, Canadian, and Sarki Tsering, Sherpa. We had hoped to do the second ascent of Langtang...
Monte Sarmiento, South Face, Attempt. Sergio Echeverria and I had the honor to meet Mr. Jack Miller, the person who knows more about the amazing Cordillera Sarmiento and the Canal de las Montanas than anyone else. He came to Patagonia to try to pr...
Ragged Ridge. Contrary to what the Climber’s Guide might indicate, Ragged Ridge is not just a pile of loose rocks. My wife Chris and I enjoyed a wet trip here in August, 1968, camping in the plush Fisher Creek Basin meadows after an 18-mile trek f...
Chockstone Peak, Beggars Can’t Be Choosers. In mid-August, Elisif Harro and I completed a nine-pitch route, Beggars Can’t Be Choosers (1,800', III+ 5.9+), up the north ridge to the west face of Chockstone Peak in the Sawtooth. The route features g...
Chitral. On September 4, the Austrians Markus Schmuck, Martin Gmachl and Walter Frisch, all of Salzburg, left Chitral for Base Camp at 13,600 feet on the Shayoz Glacier, which they established on September 12. They climbed Peak 22,490 feet, which ...
Mount Huntington Attempt. In June the University of Washington’s Tri-Peak Expedition, Neils Anderson, Chris Chandler, Alan Givler, Richard LeBlond, Malcolm Moore and I, made an attempt on the northeast ridge of Mount Huntington. Due to an unfortun...
Pico Bolívar, Northwest Buttress. On February 5, 1983, Jaime Bautista, of the Club Andino Venezolano, made the first ascent of the “pilar noroeste” of Bolívar (5002 meters, 16,410 feet), highest point in Venezuela. On March 3, ql984 César Pemalete...
Koh-i-Bandaka, East Ridge. The Nagasaki University Bandaka Expedition was led by Yoshinori Ichise and composed of Harumi Mizokami, Dai Ohtsuka, Kango Nakao, Tsukasa Matsuo, Sumio Narasaki, Masaaki Maenami, Isao Morimoto and Miss Atsuko Inomata. Af...
Geographical note: The Adamant Group, sometimes mistakenly called the Adamant Range or Mountains, is a subgroup of the Northern Selkirks. Thanks to David P. Jones, author of the Selkirks North and Selkirks South guidebooks, for the clarification a...
Hyalite and Yellowstone, new ice climbs. Hyalite Canyon is our gym here in southwest Montana, with world-class ice that’s been scraped over since the 1970s. These days, to pioneer new lines, one must get scrappy on chossy rock in order to reach ta...
San Lorenzo. On December 10,1986 my husband Gino Buscaini, Argentine Cristina Agued and I reached the summit of San Lorenzo by the easy route of the first ascent made by Padre De Agostini. We believe that ours was the fifth ascent. San Lorenzo was...
Sermilik Fjord, Southwest Greenland. On May 10, 1971 our Tyrolean Greenland Expedition set out from Nanortalik by chartered boat for four unclimbed-in ranges on the western shore of Sermilik Fjord, 50 miles away. We were Peter Tataitz, Arthur Haid...
Sakar Sar, First Ascent. Akira Miyazawa, Makoto Ishikawa, Kanji Kamei and Teruaki Suzuki, along with two high-altitude porters, were in the area from July 19-August 30. Base Camp was made at 4500 meters. From BC to Camp I (5100m), the team encount...
Hanuman Tibba. Hanuman Tibba (19,450 feet) was climbed on June 17 by ladies sponsored by Gujarat State Sports Council, without the assistance of any men. The members were Dolly Saher, leader, Renuka Swami, Usha Bhatt and Rita Patel.Kamal K. Guha, ...
Rasac Oeste, Cordillera Huayhuash. Tiziano Nardella led an Italian expedition composed of Elena Bordogni, Giorgio Brianzi, Franco Gastaldelli, Gianluigi Marini and Tullio Sprechtenhauser. From Base Camp at Jahuacocha, they set up Camp I at Rasacco...
The U.S. Forest Service has conducted in recent years an intensive campaign to prevent accidents, aimed particularly at its own employees. No special program has been organized, but there has been increased emphasis on registration of climbers at ...