One hundred kilometers south of the island of Mozambique, along some of the prettiest and most remote coastline in the world, you will find the small town of Liupo. Besides being the site of a major crossroads that sees the occasional U.N. Landrov...
Chachacomani, Chearoco and Other Peaks, 1984 to 1989. The American Alpine Institute has conducted a number of expeditions into the Chachacomani- Chearoco massif over the past few years. We normally approached from the east into the Echsococho vall...
South Peak of Mount Hayes Attempt. We failed to reach the south peak of Mount Hayes because a huge crevasse lay at right angles to our climbing route 50 feet below the summit. We had only two snow pickets left, which we needed for the descent. In ...
FALL ON ICE, ICE SCREWS PULLED OUT New Hampshire, Mount WashingtonOn the morning of February 14,1986, after spending the night at the Harvard Mountaineering Cabin, Rhode Island climbers Peter Barlow (29) and Steven Cournoyer (28) left the cabin fo...
Nanga Parbat. Our expedition was composed of Kive de Pablo, Mikel Martinez, I. Alvarez, L. Tapia and me as leader. We approached up the Diamir valley with 29 porters and established Base Camp on July 15 at 13,125 feet. We set up Camps I and II at ...
Cabeza de Condor, La Promenade des Braves; Huallomen, Duende del Diablo; and Illampu, La Conjuration des Imbecile. Jerome Mercader and I were in Bolivia for one month. We first acclimatized in the Condoriri Range, with a BC at 4,600m/15,100'. We c...
Südtiroler Volksleben, by Karl Th. Hoeninger. 104 pages, illustrated from 170 paintings and sketches by Albert Stolz. Innsbruck-Vienna: Tyrolia-Verlag. Price, $2.50.Albert Stolz was the artist chronicler of the southern Tyrolese people, his work d...
One tower at a time, Nate Opp, Josh Wharton, and I wanted to do it right. The Wave Effect started with Aguja Desmochada. We linked parts of two different routes: the original Bridwell line, El Condor, and the Huber route, Golden Eagle. The key w...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT–INADEQUATE PROTECTIONIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Bath RockOn June 27 around 11 a.m., climber Chris Weber (age unknown) fell 25-30 feet from Bath Rock, causing a compound fracture to his wrist and poss...
Nanga Parbat Attempt by the First-Ascent Route. Eight Japanese led by Kazuyuki Shimazu set up five camps on the northeast ridge of Nanga Parbat. On July 10 Hideo Yokohama, Yutaka Mukai, Koji Hasegawa and Akira Echigoya left Camp V at 6900 meters f...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. During 1955 the Sierra Nevada Section held four meetings, all of them in Berkeley. Talks were given in March by Nick Clinch and Bob Brooke on the 1954 Coast Range Expedition near Mt. Waddington; in May by Nello Pace ...
El Gran Trono Blanco, north face, Deep Throat Route. A Thanksgiving Day snowstorm in Baja? Iced-over granite and quagmire roads make this an undesirable situation, but we found the line of our choice— a seven-pitch continuous crack system beginnin...
Wyoming—Grand Teton National Park (2): James B. Ayer and Robert Saltonstall both 41 started a climb from Hidden Falls at 1 P. M. on Saturday, August 16, 1952. They both wore rubber soled boots, and carried an extra sweater and chocolate. They had ...
Chimborazo Avalanche Tragedy. On November 10, a number of climbers left the Whymper Hut on Chimborazo to climb to the summit. A French guide, Bruno Douillet, and eight clients set out for the summit, but three of them turned back in the cold. Anot...
RESCUE OPERATIONS NEW TRENDS IN MOUNTAIN RESCUEThe application of modern communication systems and the helicopter to mountain rescue problems have completely revolutionized the movement in the last decade. Now it appears that a new revolution may ...
Cho Oyu Ascent and Paraglider Descent. After seven Sherpas joined us on August 25, we settled Base Camp that same day at the tongue of the Gyabrag Glacier at 4950 meters. We were Kazuyuki Takahashi, Akio Hayakawa, Kenji Kondo, Tomoji Kato, co-lead...
Appalachian Mountain Club. During the year the Club’s trail system was put into good shape and several shelters were rebuilt. A new shelter was built at Ethan Pond to fill in a gap on the Appalachian Trail, where an overnight provision was needed....
ROPE PARTED (WORN THROUGH ON ROCK EDGE WHILE JUMARRING), FALL ON ROCK British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Stawamus ChiefOn April 8, 1992, Grace W. left her climbing partner near the south summit of Stawamus Chief in order to examine a wall for new ...
Abi Gamin, 1988. An Indian expedition led by Bilwanath Ghosh climbed Abi Gamin. Camp V was established at 22,400 feet on September 15, 1988. After a day confined to their tents by the weather, on the 17th, Miss Anita Sarkar and Sherpas Kami and Ph...
Rakaposhi, southwest spur, attempt; Neyzah Peak, first ascent. In July our team of ten Catalans and one Basque traveled to Pakistan planning to climb Rakaposhi (7,788m). Conditions on the southwest spur, first climbed in 1958 by a British-Pakistan...