Mt. Owen, North Ridge, first winter ascent. My partner, local innkeeper Hans Johnstone, and I, a guide, completed the first winter ascent of the North Ridge of Mt. Owen on March 18, 2007. One of the longest rock climbs in Grand Teton National Park...
FALL ON SNOW OR ICE, CLIMBING ALONE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount BowlenOn July 4, 1983, a call was received by the Lake Louise Warden Office to report that a friend of the caller was overdue from a solo climbing trip in the Moraine Lake area. A...
FALL ON ROCKBritish Columbia, Squamish, Lower Malamute areaOn August 6, a 23-year-old male from the United States fell while rock climbing in an area known as the Lower Malamute. He narrowly missed hitting the railroad tracks when he fell. He was ...
Ulamertorssuaq, Piteraq, and Little Ulamertorssuaq, Mosquito Attack, New Routes. From June 27 to July 19, we established a new route on Ulamertorssuaq’s 900-meter south face. Our team was Torben Redder (Denmark), Jens Søndergaard (Denmark), Lars H...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. The Oregon Section had a productive year with a variety of events. Numerous members of the section worked to make Silcox Hut more accessible to climbers. During the month of May, the completed classical Cascadian Hut was op...
Kwangde, Winter Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Shin’ya Ikuta climbed Kwangde’s northeast ridge. In the last week of December 1982 and first week of January, they placed two camps and fixed rope on a headwall. Yasuki Nishimoto, Kenji Fujita a...
An easy first ascent of peak V 5 (13,200 ft.) was made by L. Giesecke and the writer.The numerous aiguilles of the Saint Sophia Ridge were visited by several members of the San Juan Mountaineers. The entire length of the ridge was traversed along ...
Au dela de la Verticale, Livanos as told to Arthaud. Paris: 1958. 268 pages ; 17 ills.It was a happy day for me when I was asked to review Livanos-Arthaud’s delightful Au dela de la Verticale. A description of Class VI rock-climbs of the Alps can ...
Minaret Peak, Ascent. On May 5, A1 Read, Jean Weiss (U.S.), Abbas Jafari (Iran) and I left the Iran Mountaineering Federation’s hut at the village of Rudbarak in the foothills of the Alam Kooh (also transliterated as Alum Kuh; see above) range of ...
Cho Oyu, Illegal Ascent. Two Polish climbers, Tadeusz Karolczak and Aleksander Lwow, made an unauthorized climb of Cho Oyu, reaching the summit on September 30. They climbed the northwest face after crossing into Tibet from Nepal.
One hundred kilometers south of the island of Mozambique, along some of the prettiest and most remote coastline in the world, you will find the small town of Liupo. Besides being the site of a major crossroads that sees the occasional U.N. Landrov...
Chachacomani, Chearoco and Other Peaks, 1984 to 1989. The American Alpine Institute has conducted a number of expeditions into the Chachacomani- Chearoco massif over the past few years. We normally approached from the east into the Echsococho vall...
South Peak of Mount Hayes Attempt. We failed to reach the south peak of Mount Hayes because a huge crevasse lay at right angles to our climbing route 50 feet below the summit. We had only two snow pickets left, which we needed for the descent. In ...
FALL ON ICE, ICE SCREWS PULLED OUT New Hampshire, Mount WashingtonOn the morning of February 14,1986, after spending the night at the Harvard Mountaineering Cabin, Rhode Island climbers Peter Barlow (29) and Steven Cournoyer (28) left the cabin fo...
Nanga Parbat. Our expedition was composed of Kive de Pablo, Mikel Martinez, I. Alvarez, L. Tapia and me as leader. We approached up the Diamir valley with 29 porters and established Base Camp on July 15 at 13,125 feet. We set up Camps I and II at ...
Cabeza de Condor, La Promenade des Braves; Huallomen, Duende del Diablo; and Illampu, La Conjuration des Imbecile. Jerome Mercader and I were in Bolivia for one month. We first acclimatized in the Condoriri Range, with a BC at 4,600m/15,100'. We c...
Südtiroler Volksleben, by Karl Th. Hoeninger. 104 pages, illustrated from 170 paintings and sketches by Albert Stolz. Innsbruck-Vienna: Tyrolia-Verlag. Price, $2.50.Albert Stolz was the artist chronicler of the southern Tyrolese people, his work d...
One tower at a time, Nate Opp, Josh Wharton, and I wanted to do it right. The Wave Effect started with Aguja Desmochada. We linked parts of two different routes: the original Bridwell line, El Condor, and the Huber route, Golden Eagle. The key w...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT–INADEQUATE PROTECTIONIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Bath RockOn June 27 around 11 a.m., climber Chris Weber (age unknown) fell 25-30 feet from Bath Rock, causing a compound fracture to his wrist and poss...
Nanga Parbat Attempt by the First-Ascent Route. Eight Japanese led by Kazuyuki Shimazu set up five camps on the northeast ridge of Nanga Parbat. On July 10 Hideo Yokohama, Yutaka Mukai, Koji Hasegawa and Akira Echigoya left Camp V at 6900 meters f...