Vermont Group: First ascent of three summits on the east ridge of Azurite Mountain, including the spectacular rock spire ("Toland Tower") which dominates the upper Vermont Creek valley; Syncline Mountain via the south ridge, a new route which trav...
FALL ON ROCK, LEDGE COLLAPSE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION— BELAY ANCHORBritish Columbia, Monashee Mountains, Gold Range, Gates PeakFriday, August 26, 1994, was the last day of a nine-day climbing holiday in the remote Gates Peak area, south of Revelstok...
Cho Oyu Southwest Ridge Attempt, 1990. An expedition of the Vysotnik Club of Leningrad was led by Aleksandr Glushkovski and consisted of Sergei Arsentiev, Nicolai Chorny, Dr. Valeri Karpenko, Aleksei Koren, Yuri Konovalov, Mikhail Mozhayev, Vladim...
Mount Vérendrye, East Face. The precipitous limestone cliffs of Mount Vérendrye are among the more spectacular sights along the Kootenay Highway near Vermillion Crossing. The steep east face was unclimbed. From a camp at the head of the narrow val...
Unnamed peaks 6,084m (Namy) and 6,130m (Yury), first ascents. I got a permit for Gajiang (6,111m), as it attracted me strongly. It soars like Machhapuchare in a less-frequented area of Damodar Himal. However, this peak had very steep slopes. In sp...
Hard Rock, Great British Rock-Climbs, compiled by Ken Wilson. London: Hart-Davis, MacGibbon, 1975. 220 pages. Many photographs and diagrams. Price: £6.95.This attractive, big book opens with an interesting account of the development of difficult r...
Cerro Torre Valley, Various Ascents. In January, during a four-week stay in Bridwell Camp and thanks to the cooperation of the weather, I managed to accomplish with various partners several interesting ascents. On January 10, Conrad Anker, Steve G...
The Dudley F. Wolfe Fund of the Swiss Alpine Club. Through the will of Dudley Wolfe, who lost his life on the second American Karkaram Expedition, the S. A. C. has received the sum of $6,172 (Fr. 26,508.75), which will be used toward scientific ad...
China to Chitral, by H. W. Tilman. xi + 124 pages, with 69 illustrations and four maps. New York: Cambridge University Press, 1952. Price, $4.75.The master traveller and master baker recounts in delightful fashion how he and Shipton failed to clim...
Edith Cavell, North Face Indirect. In mid-July, Mark Hesse, Joe Hladick, and I put up a new route on this 4000-foot roadside face. Leaving our car sometime after midnight, we climbed directly and anxiously up the very active icefall of the lower A...
Attempt on Siulá Chico, Cordillera Huayhuash and Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. A German expedition from Munich was led by Horst Wels and consisted of Dr. Rudl Fürst, Hubert Schmidbauer, Helmut Salger, Werner Lindauer and Ulla Staudacher. In the...
West Maiden, North Prow. On August 1-2, Loma Corson, Randy Farris, Mike Menoloscino and I climbed a possible new route on the north side of the West Maiden. We began our climb by traversing left across the wide ledge that is a prominent feature on...
Mount Adams, West Ridge. The first recorded ascent of this route was completed July 14 by Dr. Ralph Uber, Wallace Juneau, Gary Foulkes, and Lex Maxwell. The principal problem was route finding to by-pass some minor gendarmes and to avoid the frequ...
Washington, Near Lake Wenatchee—On July 10, Bob Anderson (27), Ralph Kelso, and Darwin Clark were climbing a steep slope near Lake Wenatchee. Anderson reached a ledge from which he could not climb up or down. The party was apparently without a rop...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, ThatchtopOn November 15, at 1000, Richard Ladue (37) was doing an unroped solo of All Mixed Up (III, WI4) on Thatchtop when he fell 100 feet to the base of t...
Trango Nameless Tower, Free Ascent. On September 7, an all-Wyoming Team topped out on the summit of the Nameless Tower (20,500'). The team members Todd Skinner, Mike Lilygren, Jeff Bechtel and Bobby Model spent 60 nights on the wall in order to fr...
Ice Screws. On the Nisqually Glacier in early June we had the chance to check and compare MARWA ice screws (AAJ, 1962, 13:1, p. 287) with the lag-screw type and also with wedge and tubular ice pitons. I was most impressed with the ease in which th...
Wyoming, Tetons, Mt. Moran. On June 12 Milt Hokanson (19) and David Wood (20) were attempting a climb on the South Buttress of Mount Moran. Hokanson led around a corner onto a high angle slab attempting to reach the bolt from which to pendulum. Th...
El Capitan, Zodiac, warp speed and free variation. After an exploratory ascent in spring 2002 with Valley local Ammon McNeely, I knew that the Zodiac could be climbed free. In spring 2003 my brother Thomas and I started working to free-climb it. W...
EXHAUSTIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyErnest Chandler (52) was a member of a Fantasy Ridge guided expedition to the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. The group, led by guides Jon Waterman and Steve Gall, left Kahiltna Glacier base camp on the afternoon o...