Colorado, Third Flatiron. On 5 June the first member of a party of two rappelled from the “Sugar Bowl” on the west side of the Third Flatiron to “Friday’s Folly Ledge.” The anchor used was a large stable boulder about 6 feet in diameter. It has be...
More Fox Jaw history. Some history of climbing in the Fox Jaw Cirque was reported in AAJ 2008, pp. 207-211. In addition, in 2000 Christoph Mauerhofer and friends from Switzerland climbed two routes. The first was seven pitches to the summit of Bab...
Nuptse Northwest Summit, Northwest Ridge. A French expedition led by Raymond Renaud climbed Nuptse Northwest (7720 meters, 25,328 feet) by the northwest ridge from the south, a new approach to the ridge. They had four high camps. The French gave c...
Trad at the Potrero Chico. The bolt Mecca of northeastern Mexico was profaned by a series of long trad routes this year. The rock’s poor quality made these very bold adventures. Dane Bass and Sue from the Gunks started things off with The Scariest...
Annapurna. After our ascent of Nanga Parbat, Fausto De Stefani, Almo Giambisi and I headed for Nepal, to climb the normal route on the north side of Annapurna. Well acclimatized from Nanga Parbat, we quickly established Camp I at 5000 meters and m...
Hanuman Tibba. Hanuman Tibba (19,450 feet) was climbed on July 11, 1971 by Nick DeLisa, Susan and Gordon Jarrell, Sara Officer, Pat Ophuls, Chris Pizzo and me with Dhan Khumar Sherpa and Rinzing Ladakhi of the Western Himalayas Mountaineering Inst...
Sierra Nevada de las Lagunas Bravas, exploration and various ascents. During the four campaigns that we undertook in 1998,2000,2002, and 2005, several members of our Iberia Mountain Group visited the Sierra Nevada de las Lagunas Bravas, located no...
Dharamsura, Southwest and Southeast Ridges, Tos Nala, Kulu. Donna McBain, leader, my wife Rachel Cox, Steve Risse and I arrived in Base Camp on the eastern moraine of the Tos Glacier on September 21. After 4½ days of continuous rain and snow, the ...
Aconcagua, possible new route or variation. Various sources, including www.alpinist.com and www.czechclimbing.com, reported that Czechs Josef Lukas and Leopold Sulovsky climbed an alpine-style new route on Aconcagua’s west face. The route is right...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Each weekend in the fall and spring club members head for the rock climbing areas of New Hampshire, Connecticut, and New York, while the club continues to sponsor Friday afternoon beginners’ trips to the nearby Quincy ...
Moskenesoya Island, Helvetestind, Thirst in the Clouds. During the summer Alexey Orudzhev, Alexander Shamakov, and Andrey Varvarkin from Russia made the first ascent of Thirst in the Clouds on the central section of the main face of Helvetestind, ...
Cerro Pular. Ignacio Morlans and Pedro Rosende, with the porter Guillermo Chailes of Peine, ascended Pular (6225 meter or 20,422 feet) on December 8, 1972, finding on the top the remains of an Incan altar. The Chileans claimed this as a first mode...
Dhaulagiri Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Germans Michael Dacher, Eduard Bimbacher, Dr. Karl Hub, Wolfgang Kunzendorf, Hans Steinbach and I, Swiss Norbert Joos, Austrians Dr. Robert Miller and Andrea Schell, Netherlander Henk N...
Alaska Range Traverse. It was reported that Paul Adkins, Roman Dial, Carl Tobin and, for parts of the journey, Bill Hatcher, made a mountain bike traverse of the Alaska Range, starting near the Alaska/Canada border and finishing at Lake Clark. The...
Sierra Club Outing, 1933, The annual trip of the Sierra Club this last summer reflected the increasing interest in high mountaineering in that organization. Two traverses of Mt. Humphreys were made, thirty-one persons climbed the summit pinnacle o...
Seilik Gulam Muztag, first ascent. A Japanese expedition comprising four climbers led by Hiroshi Onishi was successful in making the first ascent of Seilik Gulam Muztag (6691m), formerly known as Kashitashi, completing the route attempted by an ex...
Nanga Parbat Winter Attempt, 1990-1. An attempt to climb Nanga Parbat during the winter is being made as we go to press. There are no details yet available. The expedition is being led by the well-known Polish climber Maciej Berbeka. On March 6, 1...
New York, Mt. Marcy—On 25 November 1956 a party of three set out on a winter climb from Lake Colden over Mt. Marcy down over Little Haystack to Snow Bird Leanto and return. This was a total distance of 12 miles and 6000 feet of ascent and descent....
SLIP ON ROCK AND CLIMBING UNROPED—Ontario, Milton, Rattlesnake Point. Mark Johnson (18) had climbed with a school group on May 2, 1976, on a part of the cliff with a steep, sloping top covered with leaves and branches, and without a clearly define...
ATRIAL FIBRILLATIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 26, at 2100, old Swiss climber Dr. Paul Robadey (55) was flown from the 14,200 foot Ranger camp by the NPS helicopter to the 7,200 foot base camp. Robadey was diagnosed with atrial fib...