Moskenesoya Island, Helvetestind, Thirst in the Clouds. During the summer Alexey Orudzhev, Alexander Shamakov, and Andrey Varvarkin from Russia made the first ascent of Thirst in the Clouds on the central section of the main face of Helvetestind, ...
Cerro Pular. Ignacio Morlans and Pedro Rosende, with the porter Guillermo Chailes of Peine, ascended Pular (6225 meter or 20,422 feet) on December 8, 1972, finding on the top the remains of an Incan altar. The Chileans claimed this as a first mode...
Dhaulagiri Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Germans Michael Dacher, Eduard Bimbacher, Dr. Karl Hub, Wolfgang Kunzendorf, Hans Steinbach and I, Swiss Norbert Joos, Austrians Dr. Robert Miller and Andrea Schell, Netherlander Henk N...
Alaska Range Traverse. It was reported that Paul Adkins, Roman Dial, Carl Tobin and, for parts of the journey, Bill Hatcher, made a mountain bike traverse of the Alaska Range, starting near the Alaska/Canada border and finishing at Lake Clark. The...
Sierra Club Outing, 1933, The annual trip of the Sierra Club this last summer reflected the increasing interest in high mountaineering in that organization. Two traverses of Mt. Humphreys were made, thirty-one persons climbed the summit pinnacle o...
Seilik Gulam Muztag, first ascent. A Japanese expedition comprising four climbers led by Hiroshi Onishi was successful in making the first ascent of Seilik Gulam Muztag (6691m), formerly known as Kashitashi, completing the route attempted by an ex...
Nanga Parbat Winter Attempt, 1990-1. An attempt to climb Nanga Parbat during the winter is being made as we go to press. There are no details yet available. The expedition is being led by the well-known Polish climber Maciej Berbeka. On March 6, 1...
New York, Mt. Marcy—On 25 November 1956 a party of three set out on a winter climb from Lake Colden over Mt. Marcy down over Little Haystack to Snow Bird Leanto and return. This was a total distance of 12 miles and 6000 feet of ascent and descent....
SLIP ON ROCK AND CLIMBING UNROPED—Ontario, Milton, Rattlesnake Point. Mark Johnson (18) had climbed with a school group on May 2, 1976, on a part of the cliff with a steep, sloping top covered with leaves and branches, and without a clearly define...
ATRIAL FIBRILLATIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 26, at 2100, old Swiss climber Dr. Paul Robadey (55) was flown from the 14,200 foot Ranger camp by the NPS helicopter to the 7,200 foot base camp. Robadey was diagnosed with atrial fib...
“Shipton Spire” Attempt. On July 24, Andy Selters, Chuck Boyd, Mark Bebie and I set up Base Camp at 14,400 feet on the upper Trango Glacier. Our objective was the first ascent of an impressive rock peak, photographed by Eric Shipton. It is about 1...
In May 1937, Mr. F. Spencer Chapman with the porter Passang successfully accomplished the ascent of this beautiful mountain in the Butan-Tibet border. Unfortunately his companion, C. E. Crawford, could not continue on to the summit owing to the ne...
Langtang Lirung, Winter Ascent. Two Japanese teams went to the normal southeast ridge of Langtang Lining (7234 meters, 23,734 feet). Our group led by Koichi Ezaki consisted of Masayuki Sano, Manabu Kuboki, Kimihiro Moriya, Chie Takeuchi (f), Hiros...
Cordillera Vilcanota, Colque Cruz Range, Various Ascents, and Research on the affect of altitude and acclimatization on basic neurophysical and cognitive function and erectile function. After looking carefully at the Alpine and American Alpine Jou...
FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons GlacierOn July 29, Don McIntyre and Joel Koury had just climbed Liberty Ridge and were forced to bivy near the summit of Rainier due to a sudden storm which deposited wet, heavy snow on the upper...
Pumori, East Face, and Lhotse, First Female Ascent*. On April 15, our Pumori team was established in Base Camp at 5300 meters. Our chosen route was the east face of Pumori. On April 27, Chantai Mauduit, Mike Pearson, and Daniel Mazur climbed from ...
Washington, Cascades, Red Mountain. In August a party of about 25 persons reached the small lake on the Crest Trail below Red Mountain about 10:15 on a warm, sunny morning. After a rest, about twenty members (12 men, all with previous climbing exp...
Tijeras Peak, new routes. On July 19, Cam Burns, of the Basalt Bigfoot Coalition, and I attempted to climb the crowning rock ridge that runs east-west on Tijeras Peak (13,604') in the Sangre de Cristo Range. We completed four pitches up the southe...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Daff DomeOn September 15 at 1520, Anne Venturelli (33) had top-roped about 30 feet of a 5.7 climb known as “Western Front” on Daff Dome. Venturelli was unable to complete the pitch and ...
Mount Moore, British Columbia Coast Mountains. Located south of Tatlayoko Lake and west of Chilko Lake, Mount Moore is a prominent mountain that features a spectacular hanging glacier, ice sheets and couloirs on its 2500-foot-high, broad northern ...