Mt. McKinley, Father and Sons Wall, Extraterrestrial Brothers; Mt. Hunter, Moonflower Buttress; Mini-Moonflower, Kiss Me Where the Sun Don’t Shine. British climbers Kenton Cool and Ian Parnell established Extraterrestrial Brothers (Alaskan Grade 5...
Mt. Walt, Northwest Ridge. While cragging on the west side of Little Slide Canyon, one naturally admires the Incredible Hulk, across the drainage. Less obvious is Mt. Walt, lurking above and behind the Hulk. A low-angle but sharp ridge descends fr...
Nilgiri East, Annapurna Himal. The Spaniards, Jorge Matas and Manuel Martin made the first ascent in November of Nilgiri East (22,146 feet). Alfredo Poveda was also a member of the group.JOSÉ PAYTUBI, Club Excursionista de Gracia, Barcelona
FALL ON SNOW, UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn August 11, 1981, about 6:00 p.m., Travis Plunkett (22) slipped on a snow patch in the south fork of Garnet Canyon while descending from the Middle Teton. Plunkett slid about 100 feet and hit som...
FALL ON SNOW-UNROPED AT SUMMIT, WINDOregon, Mount HoodOn June 4, Diana Kornet (29) slipped as she was looking over the northeast side of Mount Hood. She fell about 2,500 feet to her death. She and six friends had reached the summit about 7 a.m. Sh...
Noshaq Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Sheldon Moomaw, leader, Bernhard Ehmann, Mark Goebel, Jack Lewis, Mary Omberg, Sam Roberts and Kesler Teter. Since the recent change in government, all land arrangements had to be made through Afghan Tou...
Great Trango Tower, New Route. It was reported that the Korean team of Kim Hyung-Jin, Lee Sang-Co, Choi Seoung-Chul and Shin Yun-Jeong climbed the Great Trango Tower on its east face, adding a five-pitch variation to an established route. Further ...
Peaks Southwest of Mount Hallam. From August 3 to 23 A.C. Fabergé, Talbot Bielefeldt and I revisited the extensively glaciated area a few miles east of Mud Lake and southwest of Hallam. We scaled five prominent peaks, four of which had not previou...
Petermanns Bjerg, Fourth Ascent, Kejser Franz Josephs Fjord, 1985. Iaian Smart, P. Sellars, P. Todd, R. Zeyen and I flew to Mestersvig on July 26, 1985, where we picked up two inflatable boats belonging to Wally Herbert, left from his circum-Green...
Bridge Mountain Annex, West Face, Zion National Park. North of and adjoining Bridge Mountain is a smaller, 1000-foot shoulder, the Annex. Mike Wies and Andy Carson climbed a route to the right of the center of its west face in January 1973. After ...
GEORGE BOGEL1944-1977George died in the Himalayas by an act of God. He and Bob Broughton were camped on a rock ledge on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat when a rock wall collapsed and slid over their campsite.As expedition climbing leader he had re...
Alpine Club of Canada. The spring ski camp was held in the Little Yoho Valley, where the Club’s Stanley Mitchell Hut was used as a base. Ski conditions were very good, and as usual for this area, more persons registered for the camp than the hut c...
Mount Ghent, Second Ascent. From May 15 to July 5 Dr. Peter Brill, Georg Mezger, Dr. Rolf Schöpl-Sedlaczek, Bernd Schreckenbach and I as leader were on 24,280-foot (7400-meter) Mount Ghent, which was first climbed by Wolfgang Axt in 1961. We follo...
Mt. Karatash, North Face, New Route. Mt. Karatash is situated in the northeast part of the North Chuyskiy crest in the Aktru Valley of the Altai range. Organized by the sport committee of the town of Biysk, a team led by A. Afanasiev and comprisin...
Alpamayo Norte. In less than 24 hours after leaving Calgary on May 4, Hugh Considine, Peter Fuhrmann, Stephen Herrero and I had all our equipment in Huaraz and were gently acclimatizing in Monterrey. We took advantage of the new road to Palo Seco,...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXPOSURE, WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn July 28, 1985, Paul Borne (25) was free-solo climbing on Sentinel Rock when he got caught in a thunderstorm, he spent the night on the rock and had to be given self-res...
Bodies on Mount Everest. The accident occurred on October 12. Three Chinese died. Among them was Wang Hong Bao, who had climbed five times to the North Col and had reached over 8000 meters. The day before the accident, Mr. Wang told our Japanese m...
The Cascade Wall, Kola Loca. Zack Smith and I climbed a line, Kola Loca (V 5.10 A2+), on The Cascade Wall of Basaseachic. The route ascends the prominent dihedral system some distance left of the waterfall and the prominent black streak. Climbers ...
Snowpatch Spire, South Face, Bugaboos. The absolute verticality and symmetry of this classic face have always appealed to me when I have been in the Bugaboos. A fine route was established on this face by Hudson, Leemets and Williams in 1966, but a...
Denali National Park Survey. An interesting study was made at Denali National Park by Alan Ewert and Robert Seibert of the National Park Service. Some 360 registered climbers (about a third of this year’s number) were asked to complete a 26-item q...