Nanga Parbat, Rupal Buttress Ascent and Tragedy. The Rupal Buttress of Nanga Parbat was very nearly climbed by Swiss Ueli Bühler on the 1982 Herrligkoffer expedition. He reached the 8042-meter south summit, the top of the buttress, but could not g...

A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. The financial affairs of the Rocky Mountain Section of the A.A.C. took a disastrous turn at the start of the year through a deficit incurred in connection with a lecture by Heinrich Harrer, excellent in itself, but ...

Peaks above Karale Glacier. An expedition of the Auronzo section of the CAI was composed of Alziro Molin, leader, Gianni Pais, Alberto Berti, Eraldo Pais, Claudio de Zordo, Enzo Lancellotti and Giuseppe Barbieri. Operating on the true left bank of...

Wyoming—Grand Teton National Park (1): On August 5, 1952, Miss Corinne Voluter (19) had accompanied a group of girls to the top of the bluff overlooking Marion Lake. They had ascended the gentler slope on the back side. Miss Voluter and Miss Pamel...

Sermersoq Island, South Greenland. Britons Mike Banks, Roger Birnstingl, Irishmen Bill Hannon and I climbed on Sermersoq Island near Kap Farvel (Cape Farewell) for three weeks in July and August. An unusual feature of the party is that we are all ...

California, Mt. Shasta. On 18 December Vem Clevenger (16) and Bill Dougherty (16) both Eagle Scouts set out to climb Mt. Shasta. In two days they had reached 13,200 ft. But the next morning the 21st they were in a white-out so they started down th...

Cho Oyu from Tibet. Our group from five nations under my leadership placed 13 climbers on the summit of Cho Oyu via the northwest side, the same as has normally been climbed after crossing from the Nepalese side. We approached from Kathmandu by wa...

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Under leadership of Chairman Fred Johnson, Vice-Chairman Raffi Bedayn, and Secretary-Treasurer Howard Parker, the Sierra Nevada Section held four meetings during 1957. Included in the activities were programs by Jürg...

CRAMPON SNAGGED, FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT (ICE AXES ON PACKS)British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Dennis, Guinness GullyA party of two climbed Guinness Gully, a multi-pitch grade 4 ice route, on March 3, 1992. They then rappelled par...

Cervantes, 1992. Cervantes (2380 meters, 7808 feet), which lies west of Lago Argentino, was climbed during the eighth Cordillera and Trekking Guides Course. They crossed the Brazo Rico of Lago Argentino to establish Base Camp on October 6, 1992. T...

Kamet Attempts. Kamet continues to be the target for many Indian expeditions. In 1989, expeditions led by Manzoor Ahmed and V.G. Kelkar failed to reach the summit. We still have had no news of a joint Indo-Netherlands party led by N. Sherpa.

Beka Brakai Chhok, attempt. On July 2 my climbing partner Malcolm Bass (U.K.) and I turned back at 6,400m on our attempt to make the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6,940m). For me it was the second retreat—I’d failed on the peak the previous y...

Mount Rainier, Tahoma Cleaver. On June 6, Paul Bellamy, Tony Hovey, Don Keller, Herb Steiner, and Klindt Vielbig left the Tahoma Creek Campground enroute to the Tahoma Cleaver, the last major unclimbed ridge on Mount Rainier. They took the Emerald...

Recent changes in regulations. New regulations coming into force during 2002 were generally very beneficial to the mountaineering community and particularly to those climbers wishing to try lightweight ascents of new routes and virginpeaks. The mo...

Western Chugach Range. The more significant virgin peaks near Anchorage are falling fast. The following first ascents were made this year. "Mount Rumble” (7530 feet) was climbed by Dave Meyers and me on July 23. "Peekaboo Peak” (6950 feet )was asc...

Koyo Zom, Hindu Raj. Bruce and Harry Hooker, Neville Jordison, Bruce Littlewood, Rob Wild and I climbed for five weeks in the Koyo Zom group at the head of the Chitral valley in July and August. Permission to climb Thui II was refused at the eleve...

Khangsar Kang (Roc Noir) Attempt. Seven Koreans led by Yang Wha-Souk attempted to climb Khangsar Kang (7485 meters, 24,557 feet) by its south face. Their high point was 5500 meters, reached on October 16.Elizabeth Hawley

A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. The Section continued its resurrection in style during 1987. Section Chairman Randy Starrett hosted a meeting/cookout at his home early in the year. Attendees were treated to a multitude of gastronomic delights, and the...

Baltoro Cathedrals, Reflexes Nocturns. A large Catalan team comprising Antonio Bayones, Oscar Cadiach, Ramon Canyellas, Elias Coll, Pilar Rossinyol, Albert Segura, and Toti Vales climbed a big new rock route on the Baltoro Cathedrals. These are a ...

Overlord, Pangnirtung Fiord, Baffin Island. There are three prominent buttresses on the west side of Mount Overlord. The left one was climbed by Japanese in 1975 and the central one by a party from northern England also in 1975. During July of thi...