Christian Beckwith, Editor Advisory BoardJohn E. (Jed) Williamson, Managing Editor; Michael Kennedy, John W. Middendorf, IVAssociate Editors David Stevenson, Reviews Frederick O. Johnson, Club Activities Intern Derek Rubio TranslatorsMarina Heusch...
Annapurna, South Face Tragedy. Alex MacIntyre, René Ghilini and I climbed in the Annapurna Sanctuary in the post-monsoon season. Our main objective was a new route on Annapurna’s south face to the right of the Polish buttress. The expedition ended...
Peak 9,200'+. In mid-June Paul Claus landed Bill Chapman and me on the western end of the Nabesna Glacier at around 7,400 feet. We came to climb the peaks on the ridgeline between the Kluvesna and Nabesna glaciers. We climbed at night due to snow ...
Stanford Alpine Club. The SAC continues to place emphasis on climbing in Yosemite Valley during the school year. Instruction for beginners is coupled with a very active climbing program. The year saw over half a dozen members doing climbs of grade...
Climb to the Stone Age—VenezuelaRick RidgewayTHE WAY I CAME TO ORGANIZE a journey to the upper Orinoco—crossing the Casiquiare Canal, continuing up narrowing tributaries and finally hacking overland through an untracked and uninhabited jungle to a...
Mountain Climbing for Beginners, by Mike Banks. Edited for American readers by Andy Kauffmann, Stein and Day, 1978. Softback. 96 pages, 37 line drawings. Price $3.95.Here is a gem of a little book, the kind of climbing manual Americans have always...
Tausend Gipfel und noch mehr, by Karl Lukan. Salzburg/Stuttgart: Verlag Das Bergland-Buch, 1960. 275 pages, with 21 plate. Sw. Fr. 22.80. The author of three earlier successful mountaineering books, here relates entertaining adventures on many pea...
The Last Step: The American Ascent of K-2, by Rick Ridgeway. Seattle: The Mountaineers, Washington, 1980. 352 pages, including 32 pages of color photos $25.00.Take fourteen people of varying personality, profession and inclination; add an extended...
Ren Land, exploration, science, and first ascents. Following a successful expedition to neighboring Milne Land in 2004, 50 members of West Lancashire County Scouts again left the U.K. in July for the Arctic. Our final destination was to be the rar...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY AND PROTECTION, OVER-CONFIDENCEWashington, Mount AdamsOn July 19, 1985, Jeff Hancock (33) and Frances Olszewski (43), with two others, were climbing Mt. Adams via the Adams Glacier when the following events occurred.T...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Redgarden WallOn May 23, a male (22) was free-soloing the route Smoke and Mirrors, rated 5.10a, high on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Cany...
Cerro Tórtolas. A German scientific expedition enlisted aid of the Chilean government to carry out biological research and experiments on the human body on the high peak of Tórtolas (20,744 feet). The Germans, led by Hans Albrecht, were supported ...
The Ice Experience, by Jeff Lowe. Chicago: Contemporary Books, 1979.211 pages, with photographs. $6.95.After writing much of Yvon Chouinard’s ice book, I was naturally curious to see what Jeff Lowe would do with the subject. But before I would see...
Juan Tarditti and I arrived in Cochamo, Chile, mid-February 2010 after a long rainy season. The trails that approach the Refugio Cochamó in La Junta had become rivers; people and horses were engulfed in knee-deep mud. We arrived to stories of ra...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT,DISTRACTIONMassachusetts, Chapel LedgesOn May 16, 1987, James Stow (73), a veteran Westfield climber, fell 15 meters to his death as he was preparing a rappel for a teenage church group. He was tying...
Cordillera Meliquina, Cerro Meliquina (2,602m), northeast face. Our group of eight NOLS instructors left Coihaique on December 24, reached Rio Leones, then turned west and traveled up the Leones Valley toward Lago Leones, as far as Rio Meliquina...
LYMAN SPITZER1914 - 1997On March 31, we lost a distinguished astrophysicist and an accomplished mountaineer when Lyman Spitzer died suddenly at his home in Princeton, New Jersey.Lyman was born in Toledo, Ohio, and obtained a Bachelor’s degree in p...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HELMETCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Church BowlOn August 31, Tomoki Shibata (22) led Church Bowl Tree, a 5.10b crack, belayed by Hiroki Kishi. Shibata left his helmet at the base of the climb because the rout...
The International Spantik ExpeditionDifferent styles on the Golden PillarMikhail Davy, Russia, and Marko Prezelj, SloveniaPrezelj article translated by Ana PercicMarko:At the end of the summer of 1987, Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders started their...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, look back on 1972 as another year of high level activity in its climbing, hiking, and skiing activities. Each year the membership grows: from 1088 in 1960 to 2453 in 1972. Thanks in part to the increased a...