Lobuje West Winter Ascent, 1987. Seldom-attempted Lobuje West was scaled so quickly by a Korean expedition’s advance party that when the team leader Lee Hee-Bong and other climbers arrived at their base, they learned that the mountain had already ...
Cordillera Real. On April 25 Peter Hanson and I climbed an easy peak next to Huayna Potosí, Mamailloca (18,117 feet). On the 28th we two climbed the Aguja Negra (17,506 feet) in the Condoriri group by its south ridge, probably a new route, which i...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONOregon, Mount Hood, Sandy GlacierOn November 4, Kenny Dale Kasselder and Shaun Olcott (both 37) had crossed the Sandy Glacier, roped, and were beginning to ascend the headwall. One of them slipped and pulled the o...
Colorado Mountain Club. The Colorado Mountain Club is an organization of 12 Groups, located throughout Colorado, with a membership exceeding 6,000. Over 2,000 trips of various kinds were scheduled in 1979. The major outings included three two-week...
Torre Norte del Paine, 1989. The first days of January, 1989 were stormy and windy and so Enrico Marazzi and I set up our tent on the moraine at the foot of the gully that leads to the Brecha Bich between the North and Central Towers. We waited fo...
FALLING ROCK, FALSE ASSUMPTION Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn May 28, 1987, my wife, Ruth Ann Laine (28), was following me on Grotto, an easy route. I led the one-pitch climb and belayed Ruth up the pitch. At a point two thirds up the pitch ...
Broad Peak. Broad Peak has become one of the most popular of the 8000ers. In a period of good weather and good conditions, two expeditions were successful. On June 26 Swiss Andreas Reinhard and Thomas Hägler and Colombian Manuel Barrios got to the...
Huascarán Norte. On June 9, four members of the Freelance Alpine Research Team reached the north summit of Huascarán after waiting out two weeks of bad weather. The summit day was clear, but the mountain was cloaked in deep powder snow. The summit...
Bífida, East-Southeast Spur. After our group of eleven was thwarted by bad weather from climbing Cerro Campana, we moved south to the Cerro Torre region. Eventually, only four of us, Casimiro Ferrari, Manuele Panzeri, Luciano Spadaccini and I were...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Keith Reynolds and Courtney Scales made the third ascent of Earl Wiggins’ High and Dry (VI, 5.10+, A4) in the spring of 1994. The second ascent had been in 1984.Cameron M. Burns
FALL ON ARTIFICIAL ROCK WALL, HANDHOLD AND FOOTHOLD RROKE OFF AT THE SAME TIMEColorado, DenverOn June 11, 1991, I came home from work and went out to work on my artificial climbing wall in the back yard. The wall is approximately 20 feet long by 1...
FALL ON ICE, UNROPED, ICE COLLAPSE, WARM WEATHER Quebec, Montreal, Mont RoyalOn January 6, 1993, M.D. (29), an experienced ice climber and a member of the FQM, went out with a friend to practice climbing on an ice flow at Mont Royal. About 1405, w...
Nepal Himalaya, porter assistance efforts. If a snow-covered pass at 4500m is difficult to a Western trekker outfitted with the latest combination of fleece, Gore-Tex, ice axe, crampons, and plastic boots, what is it like for a porter using a bamb...
Broad Peak Attempt. Paul Hoekstra, Paul Lahaye, Nympha Stassen, François Verhoeven and I as leader set up Base Camp at 4910 meters. On July 20 and 21, Hoekstra and Verhoeven set up Camps I and II at 5800 and 6600 meters. The weather changed and th...
Bhrigu Pathar, 1991. On page 234 of AAJ, 1992, we reported the first ascent of Bhrigu Pathar (6038 meters, 19,810 feet). Less than a month later, Spaniards José María Codina, Víctor Fernández and Cristóbal Díaz repeated the same route. They fixed ...
A.A.C. in Denver. On 5 May 1949 the Colorado members of the A.A.C., with guests from the Colorado Mountain Club, gathered for dinner at the University Club in Denver, in honor of Mr. and Mrs. Walter Wood, who stopped off for a day on their way to ...
A.A.C., Alaska Section. 1986 proved to be an excellent year for the Alaska Section. Successes included the annual Ice Climbing Festival in Valdez, the first winter ascent of Mount Logan, numerous first ascents of local waterfalls, ski traverses, a...
Baruntse Pre-Monsoon Ascent and Attempt. An expedition of 4 Swiss climbed Baruntse by the normal southeast ridge from the west. On May 4, leader Thomas Pfennninger, Hans Landolt, Fräulein Claudia Müller and Christoph Rothlisberger climbed to the s...
Denbor Brakk, Bloody Mary, mostly free ascent; Zang Brakk, Welcome to Crackistan. Seeking free-climbable routes in the rock spire wonderland of the Nangma Valley, we first examined the left side of Shingu Charpa’s east face, but when poor weather ...
Watkins Mountains, Various Ascents. It was reported that a French expedition organized jointly by Pierre Grossman and Dane Hans Christian Florian traveled to the Watkins Mountains with five objectives: to climb Gunnbj0rns Fjeld (3753 meters, the h...