Kamet Attempts. Kamet continues to be the target for many Indian expeditions. In 1989, expeditions led by Manzoor Ahmed and V.G. Kelkar failed to reach the summit. We still have had no news of a joint Indo-Netherlands party led by N. Sherpa.

Beka Brakai Chhok, attempt. On July 2 my climbing partner Malcolm Bass (U.K.) and I turned back at 6,400m on our attempt to make the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6,940m). For me it was the second retreat—I’d failed on the peak the previous y...

Mount Rainier, Tahoma Cleaver. On June 6, Paul Bellamy, Tony Hovey, Don Keller, Herb Steiner, and Klindt Vielbig left the Tahoma Creek Campground enroute to the Tahoma Cleaver, the last major unclimbed ridge on Mount Rainier. They took the Emerald...

Recent changes in regulations. New regulations coming into force during 2002 were generally very beneficial to the mountaineering community and particularly to those climbers wishing to try lightweight ascents of new routes and virginpeaks. The mo...

Western Chugach Range. The more significant virgin peaks near Anchorage are falling fast. The following first ascents were made this year. "Mount Rumble” (7530 feet) was climbed by Dave Meyers and me on July 23. "Peekaboo Peak” (6950 feet )was asc...

Koyo Zom, Hindu Raj. Bruce and Harry Hooker, Neville Jordison, Bruce Littlewood, Rob Wild and I climbed for five weeks in the Koyo Zom group at the head of the Chitral valley in July and August. Permission to climb Thui II was refused at the eleve...

Khangsar Kang (Roc Noir) Attempt. Seven Koreans led by Yang Wha-Souk attempted to climb Khangsar Kang (7485 meters, 24,557 feet) by its south face. Their high point was 5500 meters, reached on October 16.Elizabeth Hawley

A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. The Section continued its resurrection in style during 1987. Section Chairman Randy Starrett hosted a meeting/cookout at his home early in the year. Attendees were treated to a multitude of gastronomic delights, and the...

Baltoro Cathedrals, Reflexes Nocturns. A large Catalan team comprising Antonio Bayones, Oscar Cadiach, Ramon Canyellas, Elias Coll, Pilar Rossinyol, Albert Segura, and Toti Vales climbed a big new rock route on the Baltoro Cathedrals. These are a ...

Overlord, Pangnirtung Fiord, Baffin Island. There are three prominent buttresses on the west side of Mount Overlord. The left one was climbed by Japanese in 1975 and the central one by a party from northern England also in 1975. During July of thi...

Apostle’s Thumb, Northeast Face. Last summer a small but well-organized Austrian party climbed the Northeast Face of the Apostelens Tommelfinger (The Apostle’s Thumb) above Lindenows Fjord in South Greenland. The ascent of the 1400-meter face was ...

FALLING ROCK DISLODGED BY CLIMBERWashington, Mount Shuksan, Fisher ChimneysOn June 20, 1992, Bill Peterson (33) was descending the Fisher Chimneys and was about 200 feet above the base of the summit block when he was struck by a large rock dislodg...

JB (44) was bitten by a Copperhead snake on May 27 at the Bird’s Nest area of Great Falls Park. I (Luciano Lima) was climbing at Bird’s Nest in a group separate from the bitten climber. I had just scrambled to the top of the cliff to break down ...

Tengkangpoche (6,487m), first authorized ascent; northwest face, Checkmate. The most significant pre-monsoon climb in Nepal was Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck’s ascent of the northwest face of Tengkangpoche. Incidentally, it was also the first o...

Appointment in Tibet, by W. H. Murray. New York: G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1959. 284 pages; 6 maps. Price $3.95. Published in English edition as Five Frontiers; J. M. Dent, 1957.Most of us know W. H. Murray as an outstanding rock-climber and Himalayan ...

Whitney Portal, El Segundo Buttress, Brainstorm. In May Bob Harrington and I ascended this route about 150 feet right of the Beckey-Heath route. Climb a steep wall past a fixed pin, then make a long traverse left around a corner and past a bolt to...

Finger Rock, Boldfinger. A long time ago (1970s?), Fred Beckey and crew climbed a route on the south side of Finger Rock, which is a short drive/hike from the Wishon Reservoir. On the east face of Finger Rock are a couple distinct features. There ...

HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITE, WEATHER, LATE START, FAILED TO TURN BACKNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington RavineOn February 26,1994, Monroe Couper (40) and Erik Lattey (28) left the Harvard Cabin in Huntington Ravine to climb Pinnacle Gully. The...

Jaonli. Jaonli (21,760 feet) was unsuccessfully attempted in 1965 by an Indian expedition from the Doon School led by Hari Dang. In June another group from the Doon School, also led by Mr. Dang, made the first ascent. On June 6 and 7 two boys, a s...

Qonglai Shan, Nuixim Shan, northwest side, attempt. Shaluli Shan, Jarjinjabo Massif: Spank Peak (ca 17,500'), south face, attempt; Jarjinjabo, south ridge. Andy Bourne, Misty Tyler, Anitra Accetturo, and I traveled to western Sichuan Province, Chi...