Cho Oyu. Alejandro Izquierdo, Italo Valle, Rodrigo Mújica and I established Base Camp at 5200 meters on April 3 and Camp I at 5600 meters. In order to reach Camp II at 5850 meters on the normal (Tichy) route on Cho Oyu, we had to cross either the ...
Mt. Mulanje, Chambe West Face, First One-Day Ascent, Previously Unreported. We arrived at Mt. Mulanje in August, 1998, with one goal in mind: to climb the largest rock face in Africa in a single day. Alard Hüfner and I had been climbing and establ...
In the middle of August, Spaniards Álvaro Enrique Fernández Escalante and Miguel de Merlo climbed what they believe is a variant on the German route. They began to the right of the German route, then joined it and left it to the right near the top.
Mount Deborah, North Face Attempt; P 9400 and P 9830. Our party consisted of Don Brooks*, Dave Huntley, Eric Reynolds and me*. Cliff Hudson flew us to the north side of Deborah, where we established Base Camp on the Gillam Glacier. The next five d...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTION Montana, Mount ReynoldsOn May 31, 1986, Charles Bauer (27) and his brother, Lary (18), were climbing a technical route on Mount Reynolds when they encountered a steep chute filled with snow. The...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. We left Bunar Bridge on June 2 with 155 porters and got to Base Camp at 14,300 feet on June 5. On June 10 we began route-finding and preparing the route. Camp I was placed across the glacier at 17,100 feet. Above was a s...
Pico Gotico, Via del Arco. Erik Monasterio, with the French climber Marie France Ducret, added a second route to the rock peak of Pico Gotico, marked 5,750m on the DAV map. This peak, a subsidiary summit west of the Ancohuma and Illampu massifs, r...
Erzherzog Johann, Der Steirische Prinz, by Viktor Theis. 175 pages, with 6 illustrations. Graz: Verlag Böhlau, 1950. Price, $2..00.Archduke John of Austria was born in Florence in 1782 and died at Graz in 1859. In an eventful life he was adored by...
In mid-February 2011, Neil Kauffman and I climbed a new route on Aguja Desmochada. After climbing the first five pitches of Golden Eagle we traversed right for 500', below the south face, to a point just right of the obvious overhanging pillar t...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT–INADEQUATE PROTECTIONIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Buzzard's PerchOn September 26 at 5:45 p.m., Adam Baxter (24) fell while attempting to lead “Terror of Tiny Town,” a 5.11 climb on the Buzzard’s Perch ...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Buttress Ascent and Tragedy. The Rupal Buttress of Nanga Parbat was very nearly climbed by Swiss Ueli Bühler on the 1982 Herrligkoffer expedition. He reached the 8042-meter south summit, the top of the buttress, but could not g...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. The financial affairs of the Rocky Mountain Section of the A.A.C. took a disastrous turn at the start of the year through a deficit incurred in connection with a lecture by Heinrich Harrer, excellent in itself, but ...
Peaks above Karale Glacier. An expedition of the Auronzo section of the CAI was composed of Alziro Molin, leader, Gianni Pais, Alberto Berti, Eraldo Pais, Claudio de Zordo, Enzo Lancellotti and Giuseppe Barbieri. Operating on the true left bank of...
Wyoming—Grand Teton National Park (1): On August 5, 1952, Miss Corinne Voluter (19) had accompanied a group of girls to the top of the bluff overlooking Marion Lake. They had ascended the gentler slope on the back side. Miss Voluter and Miss Pamel...
Sermersoq Island, South Greenland. Britons Mike Banks, Roger Birnstingl, Irishmen Bill Hannon and I climbed on Sermersoq Island near Kap Farvel (Cape Farewell) for three weeks in July and August. An unusual feature of the party is that we are all ...
California, Mt. Shasta. On 18 December Vem Clevenger (16) and Bill Dougherty (16) both Eagle Scouts set out to climb Mt. Shasta. In two days they had reached 13,200 ft. But the next morning the 21st they were in a white-out so they started down th...
Cho Oyu from Tibet. Our group from five nations under my leadership placed 13 climbers on the summit of Cho Oyu via the northwest side, the same as has normally been climbed after crossing from the Nepalese side. We approached from Kathmandu by wa...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Under leadership of Chairman Fred Johnson, Vice-Chairman Raffi Bedayn, and Secretary-Treasurer Howard Parker, the Sierra Nevada Section held four meetings during 1957. Included in the activities were programs by Jürg...
CRAMPON SNAGGED, FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT (ICE AXES ON PACKS)British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Dennis, Guinness GullyA party of two climbed Guinness Gully, a multi-pitch grade 4 ice route, on March 3, 1992. They then rappelled par...
Cervantes, 1992. Cervantes (2380 meters, 7808 feet), which lies west of Lago Argentino, was climbed during the eighth Cordillera and Trekking Guides Course. They crossed the Brazo Rico of Lago Argentino to establish Base Camp on October 6, 1992. T...