Mount Waddington and Other Peaks. Andy Tuthill, Bruce Anderson, Mark Bebie and I and Canadian Joe Bajan climbed the south side of Mount Waddington on July 30. From Base Camp at 7000 feet on the Dais Glacier, in marginal weather we followed the ori...
Mt. Moran, South Buttress Prow to top of buttress. On a cool, crisp autumn day in September, Hans Johnstone, Greg Collins, and I paddled across Leigh Lake in the dawn’s early light. We hiked from the outlet of Leigh Canyon to the base of Mt. Moran...
SLIP ON ROCK, AVALANCHE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount WhyteA party of three made a scrambling ascent to the Popes Peak-Mount Whyte col on June 24, 1983. On descent, one of the party (37) slipped on loose rock and t...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PROTECTION PULLED OUTBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park/Alpine Recreation Area, Snowpatch SpireOn August 2, having climbed through the squeeze chimney, two climbers were ascending the final pit...
Nalumasortoq, Life is Beautiful. Takashi Suzuki and I opened a new route on the Left Pillar of the Nalumasortoq Tower in July. The route is named Life is Beautiful (VI- 5.9 A2+, 600m, 13 pitches). Nanortalik was still surrounded by a dense ice pac...
A.A.C., New York Section. Now 342 members strong but addressing a much larger audience, the New York Section prides itself on a variety of wide-ranging activities, both indoor and outdoor, enabling its members to broaden their circle of friends an...
Pumori, South Face Solo Winter Ascent. Earl Wiggins and I had hoped to climb the south face of Pumori in winter, doing it for the first time alpine-style. We established Base Camp at 17,500 feet below the face. During the second night in camp, Wig...
Rolling Mountain's lower summit (13,600 ft.) was first done by Miss Martha Bloom and Dave Lavender.
Une Victoire sur les Andes, by Bernard Pierre. Paris: Bibliothèque Hachette, 1957. 213 pages; ills.; map.This little book is an inexpensive version of M. Pierre’s "La Conquête du Salcantay, Géant des Andes” (for review, see A.A.J., 1954, 9:1, p. 1...
Alum Kuh, Ascents, and Insights into Iranian Climbing. In September, Leyla Pope, a Briton with dual British/Iranian nationality, organized an expedition to Iran to explore the climbing of Alum Kuh. As guests of the Iran Mountaineering Federation, ...
Cho Oyu. Alejandro Izquierdo, Italo Valle, Rodrigo Mújica and I established Base Camp at 5200 meters on April 3 and Camp I at 5600 meters. In order to reach Camp II at 5850 meters on the normal (Tichy) route on Cho Oyu, we had to cross either the ...
Mt. Mulanje, Chambe West Face, First One-Day Ascent, Previously Unreported. We arrived at Mt. Mulanje in August, 1998, with one goal in mind: to climb the largest rock face in Africa in a single day. Alard Hüfner and I had been climbing and establ...
In the middle of August, Spaniards Álvaro Enrique Fernández Escalante and Miguel de Merlo climbed what they believe is a variant on the German route. They began to the right of the German route, then joined it and left it to the right near the top.
Mount Deborah, North Face Attempt; P 9400 and P 9830. Our party consisted of Don Brooks*, Dave Huntley, Eric Reynolds and me*. Cliff Hudson flew us to the north side of Deborah, where we established Base Camp on the Gillam Glacier. The next five d...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTION Montana, Mount ReynoldsOn May 31, 1986, Charles Bauer (27) and his brother, Lary (18), were climbing a technical route on Mount Reynolds when they encountered a steep chute filled with snow. The...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. We left Bunar Bridge on June 2 with 155 porters and got to Base Camp at 14,300 feet on June 5. On June 10 we began route-finding and preparing the route. Camp I was placed across the glacier at 17,100 feet. Above was a s...
Pico Gotico, Via del Arco. Erik Monasterio, with the French climber Marie France Ducret, added a second route to the rock peak of Pico Gotico, marked 5,750m on the DAV map. This peak, a subsidiary summit west of the Ancohuma and Illampu massifs, r...
Erzherzog Johann, Der Steirische Prinz, by Viktor Theis. 175 pages, with 6 illustrations. Graz: Verlag Böhlau, 1950. Price, $2..00.Archduke John of Austria was born in Florence in 1782 and died at Graz in 1859. In an eventful life he was adored by...
In mid-February 2011, Neil Kauffman and I climbed a new route on Aguja Desmochada. After climbing the first five pitches of Golden Eagle we traversed right for 500', below the south face, to a point just right of the obvious overhanging pillar t...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT–INADEQUATE PROTECTIONIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Buzzard's PerchOn September 26 at 5:45 p.m., Adam Baxter (24) fell while attempting to lead “Terror of Tiny Town,” a 5.11 climb on the Buzzard’s Perch ...