Fall of the Phantom Lord: Climbing and the Face of Fear. Andrew Todhunter. Anchor Books/Doubleday: New York, 1998. 272 pages. $23.95.What is it about risk-taking behavior that endlessly fascinates the human mind? And why is it that so-called “extr...
Mount Foraker’s South RidgeWarren Bleser and Alex BertulisTWO close calls with horrendous rock avalanches at the base of the 8000-foot south wall of Mount Foraker (17,400 feet) led to the unanimous decision to concentrate our efforts on the virgin...
Mount Hayes, Southwest Face of the South Summit. Fred Beckey, Benno Ochenski, Dougal McCarty and I were the second group flown this summer by Wilson Air Service to the middle fork of the Susitna Glacier. At 7000 feet, it was an ideal location belo...
Himalchuli. An Italian expedition led by Dr. Annibalo Bonicelli failed to climb Himalchuli (25,895 feet) by the Japanese route of 1959, the northeast face. On the morning of May 8 at Camp VI at 23,525 feet, Mario Dottu fell whilst he was clipping ...
Ascents in the Cathedral Spires, AlaskaAlvin DeMaria and Peter GeiserIt sometimes happens in life that a practical joke leads to practical results; this article is the brief account of such an occurrence.In the June, 1962 issue of Summit magazine ...
Dhaulagiri IV. The Kamoshika Dojin party was led by Kazuyuki Takashashi and had 11 other members including one woman. They set up Base Camp in the Myagdi Khola at 11,325 feet on September 1. The first step was to climb as far as Myagdi Matha (20,5...
This, the tenth report of the Safety Committee, records the accidents which occurred in 1956 and have been reported to the Committee. In addition there are a number of accidents which occurred in 1955 whose reports came in too late to be included ...
BAD WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, AND AVALANCHE CONDITIONS—Oregon, Mt. Hood. Gary Schneider (16) of Weston, and Randy Knapp (19) and Matt Meacham (16) both of Walla Walla, Washington, who survived 17 days in snowcaves on Mt. Hood, came within 20 f...
Gasherbrum IV’s Northwest RidgeGreg ChildON MOST EXPEDITIONS, you are invited along, agree to go, often without knowing much about the peak, get swept along in the choas of organization, travel and penury, then arrive at the mountain. Only then do...
Maoist encounters fall season commentary. There were encounters by two expeditions, one in the Kangchenjunga area in far eastern Nepal and the other in the west on their way to Putha Hiunchuli, which is sometimes called Dhaulagiri VII. These teams...
Mount McKinley, New Route Variant on the Southwest Flank. Bernhard Ehmann and I climbed the prominent snow and ice rib which rises from the northeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier three miles from its junction with the main glacier. The rib ascen...
Cho Oyu, First 8000er by Spanish Women. Society in any country is composed of men and women and I believe we have equal responsibilities. In my country, Spain, few women participate in high-altitude climbing; I felt I should do something about it....
Canada: As of publication date, data and narratives from Canada were not available for this year’s report.United States: This issue marks a half century of the Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club. The Club constituted a Safe...
Four Against the KangshungEd WebsterFOR TEN MINUTES, no one spoke. We stared instead at the mountain flank before us, transfixed, unsure, agonizing. So this is what we had traveled halfway around the world to climb? The east face of Everest gliste...
K2, Ascents by Germans, a Kirghiz, an Australian and Swedes and Deaths on the Descent. The Northlight Expedition was led by German Reinmar Joswig and further composed of Germans Peter Mezger and Ernst Eberhardt, Kirghiz Anatoli Bukreev and Austral...
Classification of High Altitude Retinal Hemorrhage (HARH)Method of Reporting Findings and Request for Collection of Data on High Altitude Retinal Hemorrhage. Dr. Michael Wiedman, Harvard Medical School, 243 Charles Street, Boston, Massachusetts 02...
DORA KEEN HANDY 1871–1963Mrs. Handy died January 31, 1963, in Hong Kong on a journey around the world, active to the end and doing just what she wanted to. Only a year before she had told a friend that when her time came she would want it that way...
Mr. James Taylor Van Rensselaer, who, among many other climbs, made the third ascent of the Petit Dru in 1884 (A. C. Register iii, 246; A. A. J. ii, 509), a resident of California since 1890, has presented to the American Alpine Club his insignia ...
FALL ON SNOW – SKI MOUNTAINEERING, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, Middle Teton, Ellingwood CouloirAt 0140 July 2, Ryan Redmond (32), Ben Johnson, Rob Backlund, and Kevin Salys departed the Lupine Meadows trailhead intending to climb and then ski th...
Kilbuck Mountains, Western Alaska. During the course of an 18-day kayak trip on the Tikchik Lakes in July, my wife Sharon and I caught glimpses of an intriguing range of mountains, one which, it is safe to say, no mountaineer has yet explored. Les...