In March 2012, when Stephane Hanssens, Sean Villanueva, Jean-Louis Wertz, and I emerged from the jungle and saw the wall, it looked so overhanging that gravity weighed heavy on our minds. We were unsure the face behind the waterfall was free-climb...
They Climbed the Alps, by Edwin Muller, Jr. Jonathan Cape and Harrison Smith, New York. Price $3.50.Under the title “They Climbed the Alps”, Mr. Edwin Muller, Jr., has given a very interesting and often a dramatic account of the evolution of the a...
Big Wall Climbing: Breakthroughs on the Free-Climbing Frontier. Paul Piana. Sierra Club Books: San Francisco, 1997. Hard cover, profuse color photography. 190 pages. $35.In large part, the history of modem world rock climbing is a response to the ...
After a number of years of ever-more difficult and impressive ascents, the year 2000, at first glance, seemed to represent a bit of a lull in progress in the high and mighty mountains. There were few great ticks in the Greater Ranges that climbers...
Spokane Mountaineers. Courses in ski mountaineering and basic climbing were repeated in 1967. The graduation climb of Mount Hood drew 31 enthusiasts. Members testified earnestly and in depth at Senator Jackson’s hearings on the proposed North Casc...
Kabang, Attempt, and Naimona’nyi, New Route. On September 10, Kinichi Yamamori (leader), Masayoshi Matsudate, Yoshihide Higami and Mitsuru Ito left Narita Airport and travelled to Lhasa via Beijing and Chengdu. On September 17, Ayumi Nozawai, Tomo...
Introduction to the Bobbie Burns GroupFrancis S. NorthTHERE is nothing dearer to the heart of a mountaineer than a first ascent, especially in a district which has resisted previous attempts. When in the summer of 1938, Georgia Engelhard and I vie...
Ushba Region, overview. The region of Ushba is the heart of the Caucasus. Baksanskoy ravine is rather wide, limited by Mt. Elbrus on the one hand and the peaks of the Main Caucasian mountain range on the other hand. There are more ravines downstre...
Alpine Club of Canada. Highlights of our year would have to be our successful club expedition to Mount Logan; our general mountaineering camp at Farnham Creek, 35 miles west of Radium Hot Springs, B.C.; and the tremendous activity at our clubhouse...
Modern Alpinism in the KarakoramCollecting climbing’s overlooked jewelsby Luca “Rampikino” Maspes, ItalyThere are many kilometers between Alaska and Pakistan, but in the month of July, the two places were extremely close together, almost connected...
Drakensberg Mountains, Monk's Cowl (3,224m), Janschek-Mackenzie-Manson. The Drakensberg Mountains (Quathamba in Zulu, translated: “the barrier of spears”) are not very frequented by climbers. Interest in this area has waned more and more as the at...
JUNEAU ICE FIELD RESEARCH PROJECT, 1954Since 1948 the Juneau Ice Field Research Project has conducted in the Juneau area a long-range program studying the relation between glacier behavior and climate. The Project has been supported by the Office ...
Kangchenjunga Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Hannes Grimm, Walter Hadersdorfer, Edu Koch, Dr. Gerhard Reif, Michael Saumwe- ber, Karl Schrag and me as leader. On March 4, we left Basantpur with 156 porters. After traveling throug...
In approximately one month Darren Benton, Jesse Burkhardt, Mikey Church, Jim Donini, Jennifer Flemming, Chris Weidner, and I completed first ascents of four peaks in the Gorno-Badakshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) region of eastern Tajikistan. We als...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTEWashington, Mount ThompsonOn October 15, 1983, Edward Henderson (47), Johanna Backus (45), Sherman Ackley (46), and Roger Ehret (52) set out to climb the West Ridge of Mount Thompson. Although the weath...
Dhampus. Patrick Monzat led a group of 17 French climbers to Dhampus. On October 29, Monzat, Jacky Guichaoua, Francette Jarry, Roland Lavisse and nine teen-aged girls climbed the southwest ridge to complete the sixth official ascent. The next day ...
Mountain Light: In Search of the Dynamic Landscape. Galen Rowell. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1986. 224 pages, 80 color photographs. $35.00.I once read in a review of another of Galen Rowell’s books the complaint that Rowell’s photographs we...
MoskenesØy Island, Helvetestind, west face, The Next Best Thing and Norwegian Sheep Ranch. On July 3 Adam Stack and I climbed a six-and-a-half pitch line on what is locally known as Den Franske Pillaren (the French Pillar) on the west face (Hell's...
Manaslu. In 1956 the Japanese made a fourth and successful expedition to 26,658-foot Manaslu, the world’s ninth highest peak. Having briefly scouted out a route in 1952, they returned in 1953 to climb to within 1250 feet of the summit. In 1954, th...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, WEBBING PARTED, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGWashington, North Cascades, Eldorado PeakThe accident occurred some time between 1100 and 1300 on Wednesday, July 18. Five climbers had started out together from a camp...