Omi Kangri. Our joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition was composed of Kotaro Nakajima, Yoshinori Suzuki, Shinichi Kohara, Michio Maki, Jun Goto, Ms. Michiko Suzuki, Hideichi Gomi, Dr. Junichi Shioda and me as leader, Japanese, and Nawang Khroklang, A...

Shakhiokun Zom, Ghokhar Sar and Other Peaks, Southwest Hindu Raj. This little known region lies between the Chitral-Mastuj line in the north and Kalam in Swat on the south. Dr. Arndt Schüssler, Hilmar Sturm and I as leader approached from Gabral u...

Ganesh III Attempt. A joint Nepalese-Japanese expedition with twelve members was led by Shoji Imai. Originally they had permission for Ganesh I via its north ridge but recent border adjustments have put this route into Tibet and it is not availabl...

Exploration of the Sources of the Punakha River. An interesting article on little-explored Bhutan appears in the June, 1965 Alpine Journal. Michael Ward and F. S. Jackson explored the upper reaches of the Punakha River and the Bhutan Himal which i...

Canyonlands. In March, Lauren Husted and I made the first ascent of a 300-foot Wingate spire on the Bridger Jack Ridge. A few weeks later, Bryan Becker and I free-climbed past two points of aid used on the original ascent at 5.11. This is a varied...

Tetons, Wyoming: (2) Nez Perce. Facts concerning another accident on Nez Perce are obscure. A rock dislodged by a climber above nearly severed a finger of a woman below. No special evacuation was necessary: the injured woman was helped down the mo...

Fairview Dome’s West FaceThomas HigginsSEVERAL times since 1968, Bob Kamps and I have attempted a new route on the virgin west face of Fairview Dome in Tuolumne Meadows, the glorious Sierra high country above Yosemite.1 Each time, we retreated aft...

Time Exposure, by William Henry Jackson. 8 vo., 341 pages, with illustrations. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1940. Price $3.50.To compress the biography of an active life into print in the ratio of one year of life to 3.5 pages of type is a probl...

Peaks 10,320' and 9,110', possible first ascents.On May 14 Cory Hinds, James Dietzmann, and I drove from Anchorage to Chitina to meet Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air.After being flown in, we hiked west along the Chitina Glacier to reach a camp ...

Postscript to Adventure, by Lord Schuster. 214 pages and 12 illustrations, including 3 sketches by H. G. Willink, with an introduction by Arnold Lunn. London: Eyre and Spottiswoode, 1950. It is said that the late C. Myles Mathews once wished to po...

FROM the review of recent mountaineering accidents, it is clear that valuable lessons may be learned, many of them simply reiterations of fundamental maxims of safety. An accumulation of authoritative data not only from 1947 but from previous seas...

Miscellaneous Information Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-651959-651966U.S.A.CAN.U.S.A.–CANTerrainRock5362446–4Snow2932627–0River300–0Unknown000–2Ascent or Descent(River crossing not included)Ascent4052835–2Descent3682134–1Unknown4...

Northern Pantheons, first ascents and exploration. On July 24 Markus Raschke, Mickey Schurr, Don Serl, and I flew from Bluff Lake to the northern Pantheons. Our pilot, Mike King of White Saddle Air, dropped Mickey, me, and the extra gear on a knob...

FALL ON ROCK—INADEQUATE BELAY, ROPE TOO SHORT—LOWERING, DISTRACTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Yin YangOn April 26, an experienced climber (44) had led Yin Yang (5.10d) and set up a top-rope for his partner (26) to follow. The leader had used lon...

Mazamas. The Mazamas, of Portland, Oregon, held their 56th Annual Outing in Grand Teton National Park, 16–31 July 1949. The main camp was at String Lake. Seventy-two persons registered, of whom 37 arrived from the west by chartered bus. Six peaks ...

AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount ForakerOn May 1, 1987, Dan Daugherty (32), a former Chairman of the Alaska Mountain Rescue Group, and Mickey Pratt (28) registered for a climb of the southeast ridge of Mount Foraker, indicating a due-out date of May 12 or 1...

Inderkila, Kulu. In the Sherpa Guide School of Manali we contracted for two Sherpas, Pasang, who was a member of the Indian Everest Expedition of 1965, and Darem Tchan. From Base Camp on the Indrasan Glacier at 14,500 feet we placed a high camp at...

FALL ON SNOW/ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn June 3 at 0750, a man (41) fell on snow/ice while ascending at approximately 12,500 feet at the base of the Red Banks in Avalanche Gulch. He attempted...

Zion SoloBridging the gap between work and lifeby Amanda TarrI emerged, coughing, from a confused sleep. Rolling off the old itchy sofa cushions on the floor of my office, I oriented on my computer’s blinking light, crawled to my desk, killed the ...

Hunter, Barrille and P 6000+. Julie Brugger and I made the third ascent of the north buttress of Hunter to the summit via the Stump route. It was in excellent condition during the nine days it took to climb it. We summited on June 3. We took anoth...