AVALANCE, POOR POSITIONUtah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, PfeifferhornOn February 3, Brian Dutton (42) and Joe Bullough (42) attempted to climb the East Ridge of Pfeifferhorn on the Little Cottonwood/American Fork ridgeline at 11,326 feet. On the Eas...
Peaks near Condoriri, Cordillera Real. Mitchell Anderson, Phineas Anderson, Lorelei Bode, Roman Laba and I spent a week between Zongo Pass and Mina Palcoco. We left Zongo on July 22 and having passed Estancia Coscapa on the 23rd, we camped just so...
Poincenot, East Face, 1994. Swiss B. Eggler and Michal Pitelka climbed a new route some 50 meters to the east of the 1989 route of Daniel Anker and Michel Piola of 1989 on the east face of Poincenot. They climbed six pitches on their first attempt...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Washington, Index—Town WallOn May 5, after freeclimbing two-thirds of the way up the route, we encountered water dripping down the face. We continued to climb up into the chimney. Mike f...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDColorado, Boulder Canyon, Avalon CragOn the morning of Monday June 15, a 17-year-old male was climbing with five others when he decided to free-solo the lower part of the Avalon climbing area, located on the South sid...
Montagne Retrouvée, by Gilbert Toulouse. Paris: Arthaud, 1957. 212 pages.“Alpinism had a double origin” this author points out. Most of the members of our club he would place in his first category: city folks bitten by the sporting bug, some with ...
Mount Rainier National Park—On September 4, 1954, Mr. Rongvald Kvil- stad (47) took a party up to climb Mt. Rainier. A short distance above Camp Muir, his two companions became ill and decided to abandon the climb. Kvilstad continued on alone. He ...
Himalchuli. The 16-man Aoyama Gakuin University Expedition to Himalchuli (25,895 feet) was led by Khiro Koribayashi. The Japanese established Camp V at 22,300 feet on the east ridge and on October 23 got to 23,125 feet, but abandoned the attempt b...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn January 31, 1992, at 1450, Laurie Lauer (32) fell near the top of White Lightning (5.7). Due to the stretch in the rope and the distance from her last piece of ...
K2 Attempt. Our expedition comprised 10 Basques, Balti “Little” Karim and me. The Basque members were Iñaki Carranza, Juanjo San Sebastián, Txema Camara, Ramón Portilla, Alberto Posada, Koldo Tapia, Matilde Otaduy, Antonio Trabado, Angel Selas and...
Plateau Peak, attempt. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) organized an 11-member expedition, 0led by Wing Commander N. K. Dahiya, to attempt the virgin 7,287m Plateau Peak southwest of Saser Kangri I. The team approached from Panamik in th...
Vermont Group: First ascent of three summits on the east ridge of Azurite Mountain, including the spectacular rock spire ("Toland Tower") which dominates the upper Vermont Creek valley; Syncline Mountain via the south ridge, a new route which trav...
FALL ON ROCK, LEDGE COLLAPSE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION— BELAY ANCHORBritish Columbia, Monashee Mountains, Gold Range, Gates PeakFriday, August 26, 1994, was the last day of a nine-day climbing holiday in the remote Gates Peak area, south of Revelstok...
Cho Oyu Southwest Ridge Attempt, 1990. An expedition of the Vysotnik Club of Leningrad was led by Aleksandr Glushkovski and consisted of Sergei Arsentiev, Nicolai Chorny, Dr. Valeri Karpenko, Aleksei Koren, Yuri Konovalov, Mikhail Mozhayev, Vladim...
Mount Vérendrye, East Face. The precipitous limestone cliffs of Mount Vérendrye are among the more spectacular sights along the Kootenay Highway near Vermillion Crossing. The steep east face was unclimbed. From a camp at the head of the narrow val...
Unnamed peaks 6,084m (Namy) and 6,130m (Yury), first ascents. I got a permit for Gajiang (6,111m), as it attracted me strongly. It soars like Machhapuchare in a less-frequented area of Damodar Himal. However, this peak had very steep slopes. In sp...
Hard Rock, Great British Rock-Climbs, compiled by Ken Wilson. London: Hart-Davis, MacGibbon, 1975. 220 pages. Many photographs and diagrams. Price: £6.95.This attractive, big book opens with an interesting account of the development of difficult r...
Cerro Torre Valley, Various Ascents. In January, during a four-week stay in Bridwell Camp and thanks to the cooperation of the weather, I managed to accomplish with various partners several interesting ascents. On January 10, Conrad Anker, Steve G...
The Dudley F. Wolfe Fund of the Swiss Alpine Club. Through the will of Dudley Wolfe, who lost his life on the second American Karkaram Expedition, the S. A. C. has received the sum of $6,172 (Fr. 26,508.75), which will be used toward scientific ad...
China to Chitral, by H. W. Tilman. xi + 124 pages, with 69 illustrations and four maps. New York: Cambridge University Press, 1952. Price, $4.75.The master traveller and master baker recounts in delightful fashion how he and Shipton failed to clim...