On High; The Adventures of Legendary Mountaineer, Photographer, and Scientist Brad Washburn.Brad Washburn, with Donald Smith. The National Geographic Society, 2002. 100 photos, 240 pages. Hardcover. $40.00.Ask Brad Washburn to sign a copy of Among...
Kajaqiao“Technical wading” to an unclimbed summit in Eastern Tibet.Mick FowlerChris Watts and I peered out the window of our hotel in the town of Nagchu, Tibet. The temperature hovered stubbornly below freezing, and a dusting of snow blew around t...
The Mazamas: Following is our report for the fiscal year starting October 1, 1990: The Banquet Committee staged the 98th Annual Mazama Banquet at the Airport Holiday Inn, attended by 240 people on November 2. Master of Ceremonies, Dr. Christine Ma...
MexicoIn view of various articles on the Mexican volcanoes in the American Alpine Journal, the following data, not readily accessible, may be of interest:Orizaba. The Aztec name “Citlaltepetl” or “Star Mountain” is connected with the legend that t...
Polish-American Exchange. It was marvelous for Janna Piatkowska, Zbigniew Mlynarczyk and me to be able to climb in the United States as part of the Polish-American Alpine Club exchange. Our climbing began in New Hampshire with an ascent of the Pin...
Sierra Nevada, Various Activity, Previously Unreported. Although there was little coverage in the 1999 AAJ, route development and freeing of old aid lines continues at a frenetic pace in the California High Sierra. Unreported from August, 1997, Cr...
FALLING ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED—Washington, Mt. Torment. Sharon Goss was the leader of a Mountaineers trip to Mt. Torment which included five others. On Saturday, August 20, at 3:30 p.m., the party was ascending Boston Basin, halfway between Mt. Tor...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Dome RockOn September 25, I was climbing with a friend in Boulder Canyon on Gorilla’s Delight (5.9+) on Dome Rock. We originally intended to climb in Eldorado Canyon, but i...
Spirit Of The Age, The Biography Of America's Most Distinguished Rock Climber, Royal Robbins. Pat Ament. Adventure’s Meaning Press, Lincoln, Nebraska, 1992. 301 pages, 219 black & white photographs, many by Tom Frost. $24.95.There was not much...
Shot Tower, Northwest Face and Other Peaks, Arrigetch. Mike Biarzi, Savvy Saunders, Roman Dial and I were landed at Circle Lake on July 18. We had no airdrop. Base Camp was in the Aiyagomahala valley, south of the Arrigetch valley. We next had to ...
British Columbia, Southern Selkirks, Avalanche Peak—On July 9, Alan Stroh (34), Sandra Antins (20), David Williams (25), Timothy Weakley (27), Charles Carpenter (30), and Russell Burditt (23), set out to climb Avalanche Crest. This party was part ...
Lost Arrow, Direct Route. On June 21, after 4½ days, Warren Harding and I completed what seemed to us an exceptionally esthetic new route on the Lost Arrow. It follows a nearly vertical line for the entire 1400 feet from base to tip, a line which,...
Haizi Shan, northeast ridge, attempt. On April 28 an American expedition led by 83-year-old Fred Beckey arrived in Chengdu. The team included Dave O’Leske, Jeff Wenger, Ralf Sweeney, and I. Our objective was the first ascent of a 5,833m peak calle...
We were lost. It was late in the afternoon of our second day on Xuelian West’s north face, and storm clouds were building, descending, and darkening. Everywhere was steep, chalky marble, malleable with a firm swing of an ice axe and extremely diff...
The West Face of the Grand TetonHenry CoulterROBERT UNDERHILL once stated in a lecture that the chim- ney up the West Face of the Grand Teton presented the most obvious and direct route to the summit. When asked if he intended to climb this route,...
Bolivia, Various Activity. In June, a U.S. climber died of a heart attack on the normal route on Huayna Potosi. In August, a guided French climber died on Sajama from pulmonary edema at Camp I after descending from high camp. A Japanese woman died...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Our year began with the return from our Christmas trip to Mexico. Members of the party were still nursing the last traces of “tourista” and many saddle sores from the long ride. Only four people of our sizable group ...
Christian William Pruchnic, 1968-2010Chris Pruchnic died on November 20 as the result of an accident while climbing the All Mixed Up route on Thatchtop Mountain, in Rocky Mountain National Park.A graduate of Franklin and Marshall College, Pennsylv...
Belaying[Recent investigations, theoretical and practical, have stimulated renewed and widespread interest in methods of belaying. The two articles which follow, by Professor Whitney, of Harvard University, and Fred Beckey, of Seattle, will be wel...
Attempt on Yerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash. Geoffrey S. Wood, Christopher J. Smith and I established Base Camp at 16,400 feet on the glacier, hoping to attack Jirishanca Norte from the west. Prior to this we had had a few very windy days with some ...