British Columbia, Southern Selkirks, Avalanche Peak—On July 9, Alan Stroh (34), Sandra Antins (20), David Williams (25), Timothy Weakley (27), Charles Carpenter (30), and Russell Burditt (23), set out to climb Avalanche Crest. This party was part ...

Lost Arrow, Direct Route. On June 21, after 4½ days, Warren Harding and I completed what seemed to us an exceptionally esthetic new route on the Lost Arrow. It follows a nearly vertical line for the entire 1400 feet from base to tip, a line which,...

Haizi Shan, northeast ridge, attempt. On April 28 an American expedition led by 83-year-old Fred Beckey arrived in Chengdu. The team included Dave O’Leske, Jeff Wenger, Ralf Sweeney, and I. Our objective was the first ascent of a 5,833m peak calle...

We were lost. It was late in the afternoon of our second day on Xuelian West’s north face, and storm clouds were building, descending, and darkening. Everywhere was steep, chalky marble, malleable with a firm swing of an ice axe and extremely diff...

The West Face of the Grand TetonHenry CoulterROBERT UNDERHILL once stated in a lecture that the chim- ney up the West Face of the Grand Teton presented the most obvious and direct route to the summit. When asked if he intended to climb this route,...

Bolivia, Various Activity. In June, a U.S. climber died of a heart attack on the normal route on Huayna Potosi. In August, a guided French climber died on Sajama from pulmonary edema at Camp I after descending from high camp. A Japanese woman died...

Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Our year began with the return from our Christmas trip to Mexico. Members of the party were still nursing the last traces of “tourista” and many saddle sores from the long ride. Only four people of our sizable group ...

Christian William Pruchnic, 1968-2010Chris Pruchnic died on November 20 as the result of an accident while climbing the All Mixed Up route on Thatchtop Mountain, in Rocky Mountain National Park.A graduate of Franklin and Marshall College, Pennsylv...

Belaying[Recent investigations, theoretical and practical, have stimulated renewed and widespread interest in methods of belaying. The two articles which follow, by Professor Whitney, of Harvard University, and Fred Beckey, of Seattle, will be wel...

Attempt on Yerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash. Geoffrey S. Wood, Christopher J. Smith and I established Base Camp at 16,400 feet on the glacier, hoping to attack Jirishanca Norte from the west. Prior to this we had had a few very windy days with some ...

Omi Kangri. Our joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition was composed of Kotaro Nakajima, Yoshinori Suzuki, Shinichi Kohara, Michio Maki, Jun Goto, Ms. Michiko Suzuki, Hideichi Gomi, Dr. Junichi Shioda and me as leader, Japanese, and Nawang Khroklang, A...

Shakhiokun Zom, Ghokhar Sar and Other Peaks, Southwest Hindu Raj. This little known region lies between the Chitral-Mastuj line in the north and Kalam in Swat on the south. Dr. Arndt Schüssler, Hilmar Sturm and I as leader approached from Gabral u...

Ganesh III Attempt. A joint Nepalese-Japanese expedition with twelve members was led by Shoji Imai. Originally they had permission for Ganesh I via its north ridge but recent border adjustments have put this route into Tibet and it is not availabl...

Exploration of the Sources of the Punakha River. An interesting article on little-explored Bhutan appears in the June, 1965 Alpine Journal. Michael Ward and F. S. Jackson explored the upper reaches of the Punakha River and the Bhutan Himal which i...

Canyonlands. In March, Lauren Husted and I made the first ascent of a 300-foot Wingate spire on the Bridger Jack Ridge. A few weeks later, Bryan Becker and I free-climbed past two points of aid used on the original ascent at 5.11. This is a varied...

Tetons, Wyoming: (2) Nez Perce. Facts concerning another accident on Nez Perce are obscure. A rock dislodged by a climber above nearly severed a finger of a woman below. No special evacuation was necessary: the injured woman was helped down the mo...

Fairview Dome’s West FaceThomas HigginsSEVERAL times since 1968, Bob Kamps and I have attempted a new route on the virgin west face of Fairview Dome in Tuolumne Meadows, the glorious Sierra high country above Yosemite.1 Each time, we retreated aft...

Time Exposure, by William Henry Jackson. 8 vo., 341 pages, with illustrations. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1940. Price $3.50.To compress the biography of an active life into print in the ratio of one year of life to 3.5 pages of type is a probl...

Peaks 10,320' and 9,110', possible first ascents.On May 14 Cory Hinds, James Dietzmann, and I drove from Anchorage to Chitina to meet Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air.After being flown in, we hiked west along the Chitina Glacier to reach a camp ...

Postscript to Adventure, by Lord Schuster. 214 pages and 12 illustrations, including 3 sketches by H. G. Willink, with an introduction by Arnold Lunn. London: Eyre and Spottiswoode, 1950. It is said that the late C. Myles Mathews once wished to po...