Matt Traver (UK), Chris Parenteau, and I (both American) arrived in Bishkek on July 1. We were accompanied by Jamie Maddison (UK), who was investigating the bouldering potential of the area while reporting on the trip for a UK magazine. We spent t...
Broad Peak Attempts. This was not a good year for expeditions to Broad Peak. Bernard Muller and his wife Laurence de la Ferrière led an international group of some 22 climbers but they were unsucessful. They included well known climbers such as Sw...
Battle Range, Southern Selkirks. Last summer two groups from the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club explored a large portion of the Battle Range in the southern Selkirk Mountains of British Columbia. Douglas Anger, an A.A.C. member was with one of thes...
FALL ON SNOW – NEAR MISSWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Moran, Skillet GlacierOn June 2nd, a woman (20+) was ascending the Skillet Glacier with her male friend with intentions of skiing the Skillet Col. Both were wearing backpacks with s...
American Expedition to Nuristan, 1968Jeff DozierFrom ITS junction with the Pamir and Karakorum ranges at the tortuous Pamir Knot, the Hindu Kush extends westward for over 700 miles along the border between West Pakistan and the Wakhan region of Af...
Between The Light and The ShadowStruggling with wind and cold while putting up the Bulgarian route on the north face of Thalay Sagar, Garhwal, India.Nikola LevakovAt our arrival at base camp I counted 25 tents. I hadn’t expected such attendance, a...
Mountain Journeys. Edited by James P. Vermeulen. The Overlook Press, Woodstock, New York, 1989. 248 pages, $19.95.James P. Vermeulen has compiled an anthology of mainstream first-person climbing stories. He has reasonably organized the selections ...
The Seventh Grade, by Reinhold Messner. New York: Oxford University Press, 1974. 160 pages, 30 photos, 1 map. $8.50.Messner’s book seems to have improved a lot since it was published a year or so ago (“Pass the crow, please, George.” “Certainly, M...
North Tower of Haystack. From the eastern end of Clear Lake the glacially scoured 1500-foot west wall of Haystack’s North Tower rises precipitously. Late on the morning of August 13, Peter Croff, Richard Schori and I probed its lower defenses. The...
Aguja Poincenot, South Face. It was reported that a four-man team of Andy Maag (Ireland), Makoto Ishibe (Japan), Alexandre Portela (Brazil) and Michel Shcwitter (Switzerland) climbed an 850-meter line up the South Face to the left of the 1986 Ital...
On High; The Adventures of Legendary Mountaineer, Photographer, and Scientist Brad Washburn.Brad Washburn, with Donald Smith. The National Geographic Society, 2002. 100 photos, 240 pages. Hardcover. $40.00.Ask Brad Washburn to sign a copy of Among...
Kajaqiao“Technical wading” to an unclimbed summit in Eastern Tibet.Mick FowlerChris Watts and I peered out the window of our hotel in the town of Nagchu, Tibet. The temperature hovered stubbornly below freezing, and a dusting of snow blew around t...
The Mazamas: Following is our report for the fiscal year starting October 1, 1990: The Banquet Committee staged the 98th Annual Mazama Banquet at the Airport Holiday Inn, attended by 240 people on November 2. Master of Ceremonies, Dr. Christine Ma...
MexicoIn view of various articles on the Mexican volcanoes in the American Alpine Journal, the following data, not readily accessible, may be of interest:Orizaba. The Aztec name “Citlaltepetl” or “Star Mountain” is connected with the legend that t...
Polish-American Exchange. It was marvelous for Janna Piatkowska, Zbigniew Mlynarczyk and me to be able to climb in the United States as part of the Polish-American Alpine Club exchange. Our climbing began in New Hampshire with an ascent of the Pin...
Sierra Nevada, Various Activity, Previously Unreported. Although there was little coverage in the 1999 AAJ, route development and freeing of old aid lines continues at a frenetic pace in the California High Sierra. Unreported from August, 1997, Cr...
FALLING ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED—Washington, Mt. Torment. Sharon Goss was the leader of a Mountaineers trip to Mt. Torment which included five others. On Saturday, August 20, at 3:30 p.m., the party was ascending Boston Basin, halfway between Mt. Tor...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Dome RockOn September 25, I was climbing with a friend in Boulder Canyon on Gorilla’s Delight (5.9+) on Dome Rock. We originally intended to climb in Eldorado Canyon, but i...
Spirit Of The Age, The Biography Of America's Most Distinguished Rock Climber, Royal Robbins. Pat Ament. Adventure’s Meaning Press, Lincoln, Nebraska, 1992. 301 pages, 219 black & white photographs, many by Tom Frost. $24.95.There was not much...
Shot Tower, Northwest Face and Other Peaks, Arrigetch. Mike Biarzi, Savvy Saunders, Roman Dial and I were landed at Circle Lake on July 18. We had no airdrop. Base Camp was in the Aiyagomahala valley, south of the Arrigetch valley. We next had to ...