SNOW BLINDNESS–FAILED TO WEAR EYE PROTECTIONAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 2, Oure Dalbinco (33) was led by his partner to the medical tent at 14,200 feet. Dalbinco was completely blind in both eyes due to snow ...

Bremerton Mount McKinley Expedition. The members of our group were Don Anderson, Jerry Koch, Jim Richardson, Roy Harniss, Jack Newman, Kent Heathershaw and Glenn Kelsey of Bremerton, Washington and Paul Williams of Seattle. We assembled on the Kah...

Manaslu, Northwest Face, Attempt. On the great 8163-meter Manaslu, where six expeditions struggled unsuccessfully to scale the standard Northeast Face route this autumn, one pair of innovative Japanese mountaineers made the first attempt on its no...

Ansilta Range, first enchainment and general access note. The beautiful Ansilta Range lies near Mercedario. It consists of seven peaks, numbered 1 to 7 north-to-south. Ansilta Número 1 is a little higher than 5,400m on the new IGM map, the second ...

Northeast Ridge of the Thumb, Palisade Group, Sierra Nevada. The Thumb had never been climbed from the east or northeast by any of the nine parties that had ascended the peak prior to 1957. From a high camp on the southern Middle Palisade Glacier,...

Peak 5750m, Ascent, Peak 5990m, Possible First Ascent, and Baintha Brakk, Attempt. Doug Chabot and Jack Tackle flew to Islamabad on June 15 and arrived at Base Camp below the Ogre Thumb on June 21. After establishing Advanced Base Camp on the Uzun...

Kumbhakarna Attempt, 1990. Our expedition consisted of Stanislaw Dudek, Kazimierz Kieszka, Andrzej Samolewicz, Ryszard Papaj, Adam Potoczek, Ryszard Knapczyk, Dr. Piotr Wojciechowski, Bogdan Stefko and me as leader. We hoped to climb Kumbhakarna b...

Sulphur Peak and “Cutthroat Spire”, North Faces, Wind River Range. In September, 1974, Lou Dawson and I made two new routes near Peak Lake above the upper Green River. We climbed a really fine mixed route of some difficulty on the north face of Su...

Everest Attempt. Our members were German Michel Dacher, Frenchwoman Chantal Mauduit, Swiss Pierino Giuliani, Louis Deuber, Hans Kessler and I as leader. We joined a number of other expeditions at Base Camp on April 8. On April 11, we climbed the K...

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCE,CLIMBING UNROPED Washington, Olympic National ParkOn April 23, 1988, the following accident occurred to Mona McCalley-Whitters (32) on Mount Ellinor:This was my first mountain climb. After loss of c...

Ganesh IV (Pabil) Attempt. Our expedition to Ganesh IV or Pabil (7052 meters, 23,136 feet) was composed of Dr. Pedro Rossi, Miguel A. Vidal, José María Martín. Félix García, Javier Delgado, Luis Alberto Aguëro and me as leader. Our approach march ...

AVALANCE, POOR POSITIONUtah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, PfeifferhornOn February 3, Brian Dutton (42) and Joe Bullough (42) attempted to climb the East Ridge of Pfeifferhorn on the Little Cottonwood/American Fork ridgeline at 11,326 feet. On the Eas...

Peaks near Condoriri, Cordillera Real. Mitchell Anderson, Phineas Anderson, Lorelei Bode, Roman Laba and I spent a week between Zongo Pass and Mina Palcoco. We left Zongo on July 22 and having passed Estancia Coscapa on the 23rd, we camped just so...

Poincenot, East Face, 1994. Swiss B. Eggler and Michal Pitelka climbed a new route some 50 meters to the east of the 1989 route of Daniel Anker and Michel Piola of 1989 on the east face of Poincenot. They climbed six pitches on their first attempt...

FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Washington, Index—Town WallOn May 5, after freeclimbing two-thirds of the way up the route, we encountered water dripping down the face. We continued to climb up into the chimney. Mike f...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDColorado, Boulder Canyon, Avalon CragOn the morning of Monday June 15, a 17-year-old male was climbing with five others when he decided to free-solo the lower part of the Avalon climbing area, located on the South sid...

Montagne Retrouvée, by Gilbert Toulouse. Paris: Arthaud, 1957. 212 pages.“Alpinism had a double origin” this author points out. Most of the members of our club he would place in his first category: city folks bitten by the sporting bug, some with ...

Mount Rainier National Park—On September 4, 1954, Mr. Rongvald Kvil- stad (47) took a party up to climb Mt. Rainier. A short distance above Camp Muir, his two companions became ill and decided to abandon the climb. Kvilstad continued on alone. He ...

Himalchuli. The 16-man Aoyama Gakuin University Expedition to Himalchuli (25,895 feet) was led by Khiro Koribayashi. The Japanese established Camp V at 22,300 feet on the east ridge and on October 23 got to 23,125 feet, but abandoned the attempt b...

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn January 31, 1992, at 1450, Laurie Lauer (32) fell near the top of White Lightning (5.7). Due to the stretch in the rope and the distance from her last piece of ...