Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs, various ascents. Between mid-January and early March a young team of Slovene climbers, including me, visited the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs, spending a total of 40 days accomplishing a series of important as...
Staunings Alps, East Greenland. Sir John Hunt kindly invited me to join his expedition to Greenland this summer. The expedition was sponsored by the National Association of Mixed Clubs and Girls’ Clubs in conjunction with the Duke of Edinburgh’s A...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn August 2, about noon, Matthew Tomlinson (28) fell while lead climbing Keystone Corner (5.8) at Five and Dime Cliff. He was flown by Helicopter 51 from the scene ...
Peak Gomiak, Third Ascent. Peak Gomiak (5013m) is difficult to get to without a helicopter. It takes two days and entails crossing two passes from the Karavshin Base Camp in the Asan- Usen region. Only two routes have been established on it: one, ...
FALL ON ROCK – SHORT FIXING WITHOUT A SELF-BELAY, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – FAILURE TO TEST AID PLACEMENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan.On June 26, Degan (38) and Beth (32) were attempting a one-day climb of the Nose of El Capitan (Grade VI...
High PraiseCelebrating 52 magnificent books from the Club’s first century.David Stevenson“To this day mountain climbing remains the most literary of all sports. No other activity so compels its participants, from the international star to the week...
Cerro Gardener and Cerro Matacaballos. Argentines José Luis Fonrouge, Alberto del Castillo and his wife Paula Marechal with Australian Murray Inglis were active on the Glaciar Perito Moreno and the Southern Patagonian Icecap. They crossed the Braz...
Traverse of the Trans-Himalaya and Various Ascents, Previously Unreported. Over seven weeks in the summer of 1996, Irene Oehninger and I traveled by jeep, foot, yak and truck (for a short distance) as we made our traverse of the Trans-Himalaya fro...
Salcantay, 1973. After their climbs in the Cordillera Blanca (see that section), five of the climbers moved to the Vilcabamba, the rest having left for Poland. Base Camp was at 15,600 feet at the foot of Salcantay. On July 13, 1973 Guzzy and Pawla...
Mount Robson’s Emperor FaceJames LoganTHE real key to climbing the Emperor Face was making a firm decision to try, regardless of the obstacles that nature and our imagination might place in our path. Once we were on the climb and especially when h...
Matt Traver (UK), Chris Parenteau, and I (both American) arrived in Bishkek on July 1. We were accompanied by Jamie Maddison (UK), who was investigating the bouldering potential of the area while reporting on the trip for a UK magazine. We spent t...
Broad Peak Attempts. This was not a good year for expeditions to Broad Peak. Bernard Muller and his wife Laurence de la Ferrière led an international group of some 22 climbers but they were unsucessful. They included well known climbers such as Sw...
Battle Range, Southern Selkirks. Last summer two groups from the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club explored a large portion of the Battle Range in the southern Selkirk Mountains of British Columbia. Douglas Anger, an A.A.C. member was with one of thes...
FALL ON SNOW – NEAR MISSWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Moran, Skillet GlacierOn June 2nd, a woman (20+) was ascending the Skillet Glacier with her male friend with intentions of skiing the Skillet Col. Both were wearing backpacks with s...
American Expedition to Nuristan, 1968Jeff DozierFrom ITS junction with the Pamir and Karakorum ranges at the tortuous Pamir Knot, the Hindu Kush extends westward for over 700 miles along the border between West Pakistan and the Wakhan region of Af...
Between The Light and The ShadowStruggling with wind and cold while putting up the Bulgarian route on the north face of Thalay Sagar, Garhwal, India.Nikola LevakovAt our arrival at base camp I counted 25 tents. I hadn’t expected such attendance, a...
Mountain Journeys. Edited by James P. Vermeulen. The Overlook Press, Woodstock, New York, 1989. 248 pages, $19.95.James P. Vermeulen has compiled an anthology of mainstream first-person climbing stories. He has reasonably organized the selections ...
The Seventh Grade, by Reinhold Messner. New York: Oxford University Press, 1974. 160 pages, 30 photos, 1 map. $8.50.Messner’s book seems to have improved a lot since it was published a year or so ago (“Pass the crow, please, George.” “Certainly, M...
North Tower of Haystack. From the eastern end of Clear Lake the glacially scoured 1500-foot west wall of Haystack’s North Tower rises precipitously. Late on the morning of August 13, Peter Croff, Richard Schori and I probed its lower defenses. The...
Aguja Poincenot, South Face. It was reported that a four-man team of Andy Maag (Ireland), Makoto Ishibe (Japan), Alexandre Portela (Brazil) and Michel Shcwitter (Switzerland) climbed an 850-meter line up the South Face to the left of the 1986 Ital...