IdiOdyssey. In April James Garrett and I climbed a new route (V 5.10 A2+) via a crack system on the 1,000' wall left of Swoop Gimp. This route, which I began with Brian Cabe, climbs the first two and a half pitches of Swoop Gimp, then branches lef...

FALL ON STEEP ICE WHILE SKIINGWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeA climber at Thumb Rock high camp on the Liberty Ridge called Mount Rainier National Park with a cell phone on the evening of May 24 to report that his climbing partner was miss...

Coleman Glacier Face, Mount Baker. A new variation of the Coleman Glacier (northwest) face route was made in May by Hank Mathers and Les MacDonald of Vancouver, B. C. From the ice funnel at the base of the 2000-foot summit wall they climbed direct...

Mount Harrison Smith, Direct East Face, Echelon Spire, Southeast Ridge, and Lotus Flower Tower. In June leader Syuichi Okada, Toshiyuko Arai, Masahiko Suga and Ms. Kinuyo Hagiwara climbed in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Logan Mountains. O...

FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonIn late March 1982, Kathy Hamman (25) fell 130 meters to her death while climbing in Connection Gully in Tuckerman Ravine. Her partner, Barry Schempf (26), also fell while trying to reach he...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE–SEPARATED FROM PARTY, FAILED TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO HARD HATOregon, Mount Jefferson, Whitewater GlacierOn June 24, while descending from camp after a weather-shortened climb, Robert Stockhouse (28) decided to descend via ...

Cotopaxi, Northeast Face, New Route. From February 28 to March 1, Gaspard Naverette, Jurg U Umlaut and Gabriel Llano climbed a new route on the northeast face of Cotopaxi (5897m). From the refuge, the three traversed eastward around the mountain f...

Mayra, Cordón de los Primos, Puna de Atacama. Ricardo Jara and Misael Alvial made the first ascent of Cerro Mayra (5300 meters, 17,389 feet) on January 21. They ascended from the mining camp Nevada at 3600 meters and climbed the granite south spur...

Peak 8,500'+, possible first ascent. On July 27 Don Welty of Wrangell Mountain Air flew me to the Horsfeld Airstrip along Beaver Creek, near the Canadian border at the northeastern boundary of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. My objective was a s...

The first climb on the Colorado Mountain Club outing for 1932 was that of Pilot Knob (13,750 ft.). Messrs. Charles Kendrick, Scott, Dave Lavender, Giesecke, and the writer (leader) established a new route up the final cliff on the west face just a...

Taruca Umana Valleys, New Routes, Previously Unreported. In August, 1999, Britons Roger Barton, Mark Bramidge, Jim and Sue Savege, Catrin Thomas, and Iain Wright established 18 new routes in the Taruca Umana valleys of the northern Quimsa Cruz. Th...

Colorado, Amphitheater. On 7 October Charles Joseph Brown (17) was leading and fell on a traverse on the inside of the northside of the Amphitheater. Three pitons were in. When he fell he pulled out two pitons and landed on the ground, 20 - 25 fee...

SLIP ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial ParkOn July 28,1986, a party of three was returning to the Conrad Kain hut after climbing in the afternoon. At 1630, about five minutes above the hut, they w...

Satopanth, Northeast Ridge. Our German Alpine Club expedition had twelve Germans, two Swiss and three South Tiroleans under my leadership. From Base Camp at Nandanban at 14,450 feet, we placed Advance Base on May 27 at 16,075 feet in the Vasuki va...

Angel’s Landing, Zion National Park. Two new routes were put up on the north face of Angel’s Landing. The Swiss-American Route, done in October by Xaver Bongard and me, climbs the major crack line to the left of the Lowe route and ascends directly...

SNOW BLINDNESS–FAILED TO WEAR EYE PROTECTIONAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 2, Oure Dalbinco (33) was led by his partner to the medical tent at 14,200 feet. Dalbinco was completely blind in both eyes due to snow ...

Bremerton Mount McKinley Expedition. The members of our group were Don Anderson, Jerry Koch, Jim Richardson, Roy Harniss, Jack Newman, Kent Heathershaw and Glenn Kelsey of Bremerton, Washington and Paul Williams of Seattle. We assembled on the Kah...

Manaslu, Northwest Face, Attempt. On the great 8163-meter Manaslu, where six expeditions struggled unsuccessfully to scale the standard Northeast Face route this autumn, one pair of innovative Japanese mountaineers made the first attempt on its no...

Ansilta Range, first enchainment and general access note. The beautiful Ansilta Range lies near Mercedario. It consists of seven peaks, numbered 1 to 7 north-to-south. Ansilta Número 1 is a little higher than 5,400m on the new IGM map, the second ...

Northeast Ridge of the Thumb, Palisade Group, Sierra Nevada. The Thumb had never been climbed from the east or northeast by any of the nine parties that had ascended the peak prior to 1957. From a high camp on the southern Middle Palisade Glacier,...