Uzun Brakk Peaks. Our expedition was to train young German climbers in the high mountains. Base Camp was placed on the Biafo Glacier at 4000 meters and Camp I on the Uzun Brakk Glacier at 4800 meters. We climbed two new routes above the Uzun Brakk...
Tukuche. The 15th official ascent of Tukuche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet) was made via the northwest ridge on October 24 by Greek Mrs. Eleni Stamatakis, Dawa Phurbi Sherpa and Pemba Tshering Sherpa.Elizabeth Hawley
Langtang Lirung Winter Ascent and Tragedy. Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 23,734 feet) received its 13th ascent on December 18 when South Korean Kim Jin-Ryun and Nepalese Dorje Tamang and Bir Bahadur Tamang reached the summit from Camp IV at 6800 m...
Glaciers of Yosemite National Park. Since 1931, C. A. Harwell. Yosemite Park naturalist, has made yearly observations and measurements of the glaciers of Mts. Lyell, Maclure, Dana, and Conness. The reports of this systematic study are of great val...
Washington, Snoqualmie Pass—Chair Peak—On Sept. 8, Peter Conti (23) was leading on the east face of Chair Peak several hundred feet below the summit. He had climbed about one-half the length of the rope from his be-layer, John Coffin (28). As life...
Shisha Pangma from the North, Tragedy, Ascent and Attempts, Autumn 1991. At least seven expeditions attempted Shisha Pangma from the northern flank of the mountain in the autumn of 1991. Members of a Japanese expedition, led by Kiyoshi Shimizu, an...
North Trapper Peak, Northwest Face, Bitterroot Range. Persistent tales of bad rock, an unappealing approach and a horrendous descent seem to have kept crowds off this peak’s 4000-foot northwest face, the largest in the range. In late July Jim LaRu...
COLIN G. CHISHOLM1907-1990Colin Chisholm died peacefully on January 7, 1990. He was always an active man, both physically and mentally. His many friends can be thankful that his illness was both short and free from excessive pain. His health began...
In the autumn a joint expedition from the Alpine Club of Kobe University (ACKU) and the Mountaineering Association of China University of Geosciences (Wuhan, CUG) made the first ascent of Kangri Garpo II (KG II, 6,703m on old Soviet maps, 6,805m G...
Battle Range, 1946: Further Attempts. In 1946 L. M. Erskine, Jr., and T. Baker attempted to reach the Battle Range from Beaton, on upper Arrow Lake, via the Incomappleux River. A small glacier was found on the N. side of the pass between Poole and...
Grosvenor is a striking mountain, an iconic pyramid with technical faces that allow no easy way up. The west face appeared to us the most impressive and technical. It rises 1,300m and is littered with ice ribbons broken by steep rock bands. ...
Fitz Roy, Super Couloir, 1980. During the 1979-1980 season, Marius Norstad and I went to Fitz Roy Park, hoping to climb both Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. We believed it possible if we could make light, fast ascents. There are such routes on both peak...
Mount Huntington, West Face. At 6:30 p.m. on May 6, less than 24 hours after we left Colorado, Talkeetna Air Taxi deposited Dave Bangert and me on the Tokisitna Glacier below the west face of Mt. Huntington. It was bitterly cold. On May 8, we clim...
YearNumber of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 81...
The First Twenty-Seven YearsThe Safety Report of the American Alpine ClubBenjamin G. Ferris, Jr., M.D.SHORTLY AFTER WORLD WAR II, in 1947, a large number, more than 300 climbing fatalities or accidents, were reported in Europe—mainly in Switzerlan...
Eagle Rock Peak, first ascent. A man wearing a leather jacket with a bloody knife in his hands stands by the roadside, digging inside the body of a slaughtered yak. We realized we were in China.Christof Looser, Martin Ruggli, and I started out for...
K2, North Buttress via the Japanese Route, Ascent and Tragedy. The expedition was composed of Spaniards José Carlos Tamayo, Iñaki Otxoa, Juan José Ruiz, Ramón Portilla, Juan José (Juanjo) San Sebastián, Juan Ignacio (Atxo) Apellaniz and me and the...
The Pacific Crest Trailway, by Clinton C. Clarke, 126 pp.; 12 detached illustrations, 5 detached maps. Pasadena: Pacific Crest Trailway System Conference, 1945. $2.25.A description of the history, construction and location of the 2156 miles of thi...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED New Hampshire, Mt. WashingtonOn January 22, 1980, John Zedick (25) was leading two friends, Brian Kring and KimAnkeny, up the Fan to climb Odell’s Gully. They had stayed at the Harvard Cabin the night before. The Fan,...
Huntington’s Phantom WallJay Smith“HEY, LADDIE. Had a look lately?”“Huh?” I moaned, as it felt as if only minutes before I had dropped off to sleep. I pulled my gloved hands out from my armpits and wiggled my cold toes. Then turning to the right, ...