Barbican. In mid-August Don Jensen, Frank Sarnquist and I climbed Barbican by the west ridge, a new route. From Tonquin Valley the ridge was gained via the right hand of two prominent snow gullies which lead up from the right side of the west face...
Aguja de la S. This formation, although the smallest granite peak in the Fitz Roy area, offers superb climbing on both its eastern 1,500-foot face and its western 3,000-foot face. While it is believed there have been only a handful of ascents of t...
Washintgon, Northen Cascades, Red Face Mountain—On August 29, 25 persons, members of the Whatcom Pass Outing sponsored by the Sierra Club, were climbing Red Face Mountain. Some of the group were experienced climbers, others were not, but all were ...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PLACED NO PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Castle Crags WildernessOn March 23, John Stafford (17), who had some training and experience in rock climbing, made climbing the focus of his sen...
Ganesh Himal III Attempt. A joint expedition of five Japanese and three Sherpas led by Yoichiro Arai attempted to climb virgin Ganesh Himal III (7132 meters, 23,400 feet) by the west face of the south ridge and the south ridge. After establishing ...
Swiss Hindu Kush Expedition. Successful first ascents by the expedition led by Max Eiselin are reported in Die Alpen. The group left Kabul by car and traveled through Faizabad and Ishkamish into the Wakhan Corridor and finally to the village of La...
Huandoy, North Face, and Chacraraju, South Face, Solo. After acclimatization and an attempt on Ocshapalca frustrated by bad weather from August 4 to 9, on August 121 left the Laguna Parón at 4000 meters at two P.M. At 5:20 I was at the lake below ...
Gespong. This virgin 19,200-foot peak was climbed September 28 by Hiro Narita, a Japanese student and Ang Nyima, a Sherpa of the Mountaineering Institute at Manali. General Bruce had made an unsuccessful attempt on this peak at the beginning of th...
Mount Neva, East Face, Indian Peak Range. Bart Chandler and I walked in on October 26 to bivouac on a glacier north of Mount Reva. The next day we left at 8:30 and walked around to the east side of the peak. We picked a route that split the face, ...
Good Neighbor Peak, Mount Vancouver. On April 21, Kennan Harvey and I flew to the south face of Vancouver with Gulf Air. Unsettled weather was followed by clearing on April 23. We started climbing on the 24th and camped that night at 12,500 feet. ...
Uzun Brakk Peaks. Our expedition was to train young German climbers in the high mountains. Base Camp was placed on the Biafo Glacier at 4000 meters and Camp I on the Uzun Brakk Glacier at 4800 meters. We climbed two new routes above the Uzun Brakk...
Tukuche. The 15th official ascent of Tukuche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet) was made via the northwest ridge on October 24 by Greek Mrs. Eleni Stamatakis, Dawa Phurbi Sherpa and Pemba Tshering Sherpa.Elizabeth Hawley
Langtang Lirung Winter Ascent and Tragedy. Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 23,734 feet) received its 13th ascent on December 18 when South Korean Kim Jin-Ryun and Nepalese Dorje Tamang and Bir Bahadur Tamang reached the summit from Camp IV at 6800 m...
Glaciers of Yosemite National Park. Since 1931, C. A. Harwell. Yosemite Park naturalist, has made yearly observations and measurements of the glaciers of Mts. Lyell, Maclure, Dana, and Conness. The reports of this systematic study are of great val...
Washington, Snoqualmie Pass—Chair Peak—On Sept. 8, Peter Conti (23) was leading on the east face of Chair Peak several hundred feet below the summit. He had climbed about one-half the length of the rope from his be-layer, John Coffin (28). As life...
Shisha Pangma from the North, Tragedy, Ascent and Attempts, Autumn 1991. At least seven expeditions attempted Shisha Pangma from the northern flank of the mountain in the autumn of 1991. Members of a Japanese expedition, led by Kiyoshi Shimizu, an...
North Trapper Peak, Northwest Face, Bitterroot Range. Persistent tales of bad rock, an unappealing approach and a horrendous descent seem to have kept crowds off this peak’s 4000-foot northwest face, the largest in the range. In late July Jim LaRu...
COLIN G. CHISHOLM1907-1990Colin Chisholm died peacefully on January 7, 1990. He was always an active man, both physically and mentally. His many friends can be thankful that his illness was both short and free from excessive pain. His health began...
In the autumn a joint expedition from the Alpine Club of Kobe University (ACKU) and the Mountaineering Association of China University of Geosciences (Wuhan, CUG) made the first ascent of Kangri Garpo II (KG II, 6,703m on old Soviet maps, 6,805m G...
Battle Range, 1946: Further Attempts. In 1946 L. M. Erskine, Jr., and T. Baker attempted to reach the Battle Range from Beaton, on upper Arrow Lake, via the Incomappleux River. A small glacier was found on the N. side of the pass between Poole and...