Satopanth and Shivling. A Japanese expedition of eleven led by Hisao Seki set up Base Camp at Nandanban on July 31. They then established Advance Base, Camps I, II and III at 15,900, 16,750, 19,000 and 20,675 feet on August 6,7, 12 and 17 respecti...
Canyonlands National Park. The Monument Basin Towers are located off the White Rim of the park. A number of climbs were made there. Staggering Rock (IV, 5.9, A3, 3 pitches) by Strappo and Crusher; The Meemohive (IV, 5.9+, A2,4 pitches) by Crusher ...
Gyachung Kang, Attempts. Two teams went to the 7952-meter Gyachung Kang, which stands on the Nepalese-Tibetan border between Cho Oyu and Everest, this autumn. It is very seldom attempted by climbers—probably partly because it is nearly 8000 meters...
Peaks in the Cordilleras Apolobamba and Real. The Jubilee Expedition of the Schorndorf Section of the German Alpine Club had as members Ernst Dreiseitel, Rolf Gölz, Ernst Henninger, Siegfried Härer, Ulrich Jaudas, Wolfgang Lutz, Richard Reif, and ...
Cerro Grande, South Spur. On February 21, Italian Casimiro Ferrari completed a new route on Cerro Grande (2804 meters, 9200 feet) alone, although he had been accompanied for the first 650 of the 850 vertical meters by a relatively inexperienced yo...
Mount Snoqualmie—On April 18, 1954, William A. Degenhardt (45) and two women Mountaineers were climbing Mt. Snoqualmie, 6300 feet on skis. The party members were experienced ski mountaineers and in good physical condition.Snow and weather conditio...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, UNPLANNED BIVOUAC, MISUNDERSTANDING OF RATING SYSTEM, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Arizona, Canyon Spring Wall, De GraziaThe purpose of the trip (on December 2, 1992) was to complete a multi-pitch climb. De Grazia was selected bec...
K2 Attempt. Swiss Jean Troillet and I made what hardly can be called an attempt on K2 from the west since the weather was so bad. During 42 days at Base Camp, it actually snowed for 30 with 10 to 15 centimeters of new snow each morning.Wojciech Ku...
Crystalline Group: (All first ascents.) A substantially glaciated peak several miles south of the main chain (probably Thorington’s "Unnamed (9300)") ; a traverse of the eastern rim of the southwest drainage of the southern end of the chain, inclu...
Cho Oyu, West side from the North, Ascents and Attempts, Post-Monsoon. An international expedition that climbed Cho Oyu’s western side from Tibet was led by Frenchman (Corsican) Hughes Griscelli. There were 2 French, 4 Italian, 2 Spanish and 1 Pol...
Barbican. In mid-August Don Jensen, Frank Sarnquist and I climbed Barbican by the west ridge, a new route. From Tonquin Valley the ridge was gained via the right hand of two prominent snow gullies which lead up from the right side of the west face...
Aguja de la S. This formation, although the smallest granite peak in the Fitz Roy area, offers superb climbing on both its eastern 1,500-foot face and its western 3,000-foot face. While it is believed there have been only a handful of ascents of t...
Washintgon, Northen Cascades, Red Face Mountain—On August 29, 25 persons, members of the Whatcom Pass Outing sponsored by the Sierra Club, were climbing Red Face Mountain. Some of the group were experienced climbers, others were not, but all were ...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PLACED NO PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Castle Crags WildernessOn March 23, John Stafford (17), who had some training and experience in rock climbing, made climbing the focus of his sen...
Ganesh Himal III Attempt. A joint expedition of five Japanese and three Sherpas led by Yoichiro Arai attempted to climb virgin Ganesh Himal III (7132 meters, 23,400 feet) by the west face of the south ridge and the south ridge. After establishing ...
Swiss Hindu Kush Expedition. Successful first ascents by the expedition led by Max Eiselin are reported in Die Alpen. The group left Kabul by car and traveled through Faizabad and Ishkamish into the Wakhan Corridor and finally to the village of La...
Huandoy, North Face, and Chacraraju, South Face, Solo. After acclimatization and an attempt on Ocshapalca frustrated by bad weather from August 4 to 9, on August 121 left the Laguna Parón at 4000 meters at two P.M. At 5:20 I was at the lake below ...
Gespong. This virgin 19,200-foot peak was climbed September 28 by Hiro Narita, a Japanese student and Ang Nyima, a Sherpa of the Mountaineering Institute at Manali. General Bruce had made an unsuccessful attempt on this peak at the beginning of th...
Mount Neva, East Face, Indian Peak Range. Bart Chandler and I walked in on October 26 to bivouac on a glacier north of Mount Reva. The next day we left at 8:30 and walked around to the east side of the peak. We picked a route that split the face, ...
Good Neighbor Peak, Mount Vancouver. On April 21, Kennan Harvey and I flew to the south face of Vancouver with Gulf Air. Unsettled weather was followed by clearing on April 23. We started climbing on the 24th and camped that night at 12,500 feet. ...