FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, ICY ROCK Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn September 19, 1992, at 0830, Lathe Strang (30) fractured his left ankle as he slipped on icy rock while leading the first pitch of Prevertica...
Changtse. Our joint expedition had nine Chinese: Jin Jun Xi, Wang Yong Feng, Luo Shen, Zhao Yue Min, Chen Jian Jun, Yang Jiu Hui, Sun Yi, Tong Lu and me as leader; and nine Hong Kong members: Zeng Luo, climbing leader, Zhong Jian Min, Zhen Yi Jia,...
Spantik. The Kohriyama Alpine Club’s expedition to Spantik (23,042 feet) was led by Yasuhiro Narita. They reached Base Camp at 14,100 feet on July 1. Avalanche danger made them change their plans and they pushed on to the Polan La and tried the we...
Minapin. The German Karakoram Expedition 1959, composed of Hans Jochen Schneider, leader, Gerhard Klammert, Hans Baumert, Rudolf Bardolej, Dr. Hermann Berger, Fritz Lobbichler, Erwin Stocker, Dr. Gottfried Neureuther and Willi Bogner, had hoped to...
Snow Creek Wall, New Routes. The Galaxy Route located on the south half of the wall was completed September 14 by Bob Phelps and Pat Callis. The climb took 1½ days and involved 11 leads and 52 pitons, 9 for direct aid. This route lies between the ...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, “EGO IN AN UPROAR” California, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows—Daff DomeOn August 12, 1994, at 1010, the NPS received a report of a climber injured in an 60-80 foot fall to the ground at Daff Dome in T...
Tavan Bogd Range, probable new route on Kowalewski, and other early repeats. The primary aim of the British Heart of Asia Expedition 2002 was to explore the Altai Mountains in the far west of Mongolia and attempt some new peaks and routes. Unfortu...
Miyar Valley, Dome Peak (5,650m), Lopez-Pfaff Direct; Point JAMES (4,965m), Southeast Ridge. At the end of August, after a three-day trek, Anna Pfaff and I established base camp in the Miyar, at the spot we had used for our 2008 visit, the grassy ...
Foraker and McKinley, West Buttress Variant. Granger Banks, Neal Beidleman, Ken Graff, Richard Soaper and I flew to the Kahiltna Glacier on May 19. After an abortive attempt on Hunter’s north ridge, we climbed Foraker’s northeast ridge. It took si...
Washington, Mt. Rainier—On August 31, Marcel Schuster (40), former European guide, and Naydine Nutley (20), both from Yakima, Washington, and a two man support party checked out from the Nisqually entrance station for a summit climb via the Puyall...
Highest Automobile Road in North America is the Mt. Evans scenic drive near Denver, 14,260 ft. above sea level. The highest mountain pass over which a regular highway runs is Independence Pass, near Leadville, Colo., 12,095 ft. Second is Fall Rive...
Everest Traverse from the North in the Pre-Monsoon. On April 14, two figures were seen from Nepal descending the southeast ridge, which no one had ascended. They turned out to be an experienced Himalayan climber from South Korea, Heo Young-Ho, and...
"Amulet Peak," Northwestern Chugach. This beautiful mountain (8290 feet) rises only six miles from mile 94 on the Glenn Highway, but the Matanuska River was a formidable barrier until winter climbing began in this area. In early 1967 none of three...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, NO HARD HATAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Back-of-the-Lake CragOn August 30, T. R. was leading “I Hear My Train A-Coming” (5.10c). He was retreating to his last piece because, “it was no good,” when he fell, pulling it ...
Yogeshwar Attempt and Saife Ascent. After an initial attempt on the unclimbed south ridge of Yoseghwar (6617 meters), which was thwarted by dangerous rotten rock and mud sections and exposure, our L.O. offered us the possibility to climb Saife (61...
Disappointment Peak, Northwest Chimney. Art Gran and John Hudson on July 5 made a new route on the northwest face of Disappointment Peak by selecting the distinct ledge and chimney system which is between the northwest crack and the northwest shel...
Sierra Club. Early in February 1951 the activities of the climbing-and-skiing contingent in the Sierra Club took on the shape of a trans-Sierra ski tour. Two parties, one starting from the E. at Whitney Portal and the other from the W. in Giant Fo...
On February 4, 1971, Royal Robbins and I completed the second ascent of the Wall of the Morning Light. Short days, cold nights, and hot tea characterized the six-day ascent. (The Editor calls attention to this most remarkable ascent so modestly su...
Pavle Kozjeck 1959-2008I once speculated that our generation would keep climbing until at least the age of 65. After a long pause, you corrected me with certainty, saying that we will keep doing it until 85. In your deeds and judgment, I always fe...
Taulliraju, Abasraju, Santa Cruz, Huandoy Oeste, Chacraraju Este, Solo. After an acclimatization climb of Pisco with François Lafaye in late May, I made five solo ascents. From the Quebrada Santa Cruz on June 9 in eight hours I made the fourth asc...