Langtang Ri Winter Ascent. An expedition of three Koreans made the sixth ascent of Langtang Ri (7205 meters, 23,638 feet). On December 9, leader Park Young-Seok, Youn Tae-Young and Nepali Bir Bahadur Tamang reached the summit via the southwest rid...
Shimshal Valley, exploration and survey. In 2001, when the Yokohama Alpine Club went to the Shimshal Pass area to climb Mungarig-Sar (Lupjoi-Sar), we found the whole area to be almost completely unsurveyed. We had so much trouble identifying the s...
Tukuche and Dhampus Ascents. A French expedition led by Jean Moatti made the 16th authorized ascent of Tukuche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet). On September 28, Frédéric Buet and Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa reached the summit via the northwest ridge. This same...
Idaho Alpine Club. Our club, located in Idaho Falls, engages in diverse activities that include cross-country skiing, rafting, kayaking, bicycling, and backpacking in addition to climbing and mountaineering. Our 150 members have a strong interest ...
Lamjung Himal. The Hong Kong Expedition of the British Mountaineering Association was organized by Major J.L. Barker and led by Captain Michael Burgess. This nine-man team made the first ascent of the 22,921-foot peak. Their highest camp was Camp ...
Castle Crags, North Face of Castle Dome, Northern California. On June 22, Clay Cox, Mike Seeley and I climbed this route located in Castle Crags State Park. The climb began with a descent of a gully west of the Dome, to a large fir tree, just befo...
Wood Peak, Sinclair Spur, and Mount McArthur, North Ridge. The Anglo-American team of Geoff Hornby, Tom Nonis, Stephen Jones and Dean Freeman landed on the Hubbard Glacier on May 1. On May 3 they climbed a new route on the west face of Wood Peak (...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, ICY ROCK Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn September 19, 1992, at 0830, Lathe Strang (30) fractured his left ankle as he slipped on icy rock while leading the first pitch of Prevertica...
Changtse. Our joint expedition had nine Chinese: Jin Jun Xi, Wang Yong Feng, Luo Shen, Zhao Yue Min, Chen Jian Jun, Yang Jiu Hui, Sun Yi, Tong Lu and me as leader; and nine Hong Kong members: Zeng Luo, climbing leader, Zhong Jian Min, Zhen Yi Jia,...
Spantik. The Kohriyama Alpine Club’s expedition to Spantik (23,042 feet) was led by Yasuhiro Narita. They reached Base Camp at 14,100 feet on July 1. Avalanche danger made them change their plans and they pushed on to the Polan La and tried the we...
Minapin. The German Karakoram Expedition 1959, composed of Hans Jochen Schneider, leader, Gerhard Klammert, Hans Baumert, Rudolf Bardolej, Dr. Hermann Berger, Fritz Lobbichler, Erwin Stocker, Dr. Gottfried Neureuther and Willi Bogner, had hoped to...
Snow Creek Wall, New Routes. The Galaxy Route located on the south half of the wall was completed September 14 by Bob Phelps and Pat Callis. The climb took 1½ days and involved 11 leads and 52 pitons, 9 for direct aid. This route lies between the ...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, “EGO IN AN UPROAR” California, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows—Daff DomeOn August 12, 1994, at 1010, the NPS received a report of a climber injured in an 60-80 foot fall to the ground at Daff Dome in T...
Tavan Bogd Range, probable new route on Kowalewski, and other early repeats. The primary aim of the British Heart of Asia Expedition 2002 was to explore the Altai Mountains in the far west of Mongolia and attempt some new peaks and routes. Unfortu...
Miyar Valley, Dome Peak (5,650m), Lopez-Pfaff Direct; Point JAMES (4,965m), Southeast Ridge. At the end of August, after a three-day trek, Anna Pfaff and I established base camp in the Miyar, at the spot we had used for our 2008 visit, the grassy ...
Foraker and McKinley, West Buttress Variant. Granger Banks, Neal Beidleman, Ken Graff, Richard Soaper and I flew to the Kahiltna Glacier on May 19. After an abortive attempt on Hunter’s north ridge, we climbed Foraker’s northeast ridge. It took si...
Washington, Mt. Rainier—On August 31, Marcel Schuster (40), former European guide, and Naydine Nutley (20), both from Yakima, Washington, and a two man support party checked out from the Nisqually entrance station for a summit climb via the Puyall...
Highest Automobile Road in North America is the Mt. Evans scenic drive near Denver, 14,260 ft. above sea level. The highest mountain pass over which a regular highway runs is Independence Pass, near Leadville, Colo., 12,095 ft. Second is Fall Rive...
Everest Traverse from the North in the Pre-Monsoon. On April 14, two figures were seen from Nepal descending the southeast ridge, which no one had ascended. They turned out to be an experienced Himalayan climber from South Korea, Heo Young-Ho, and...
"Amulet Peak," Northwestern Chugach. This beautiful mountain (8290 feet) rises only six miles from mile 94 on the Glenn Highway, but the Matanuska River was a formidable barrier until winter climbing began in this area. In early 1967 none of three...