Expeditions to the Hindu Kush in 1962. More details about the Polish expedition to the Wakhan Corridor in August and September, 1962, have become available. Two groups operated separately. Nine Poles from Kraków, under Stanislaw Biel, all climbed ...
Mount Hayes, Second Ascent by New Route, the East Ridge. After three smooth flights, Dan Osborne, leader, Mark Hottmann,Tom Hillis and I lay ready on the westernmost fork of the Trident Glacier at 6000 feet. We moved camp the next day to a ramp le...
Huandoy Este, East Face and Ocshapalca, South Face, Solo. In July, I made two solo ascents. The first, the south face of Huandoy Este, probably was not a first due to its proximity to the Pisco Base Camp, although I saw no signs of previous ascent...
Peaks in West Parun Valley and Zerago Peak, Bandaka Group. The Mount Yari Hut Party was composed of Minoru Murata, leader, Bunji Kobayashi, Susumu Hirose, and Katsuki Kohno. They traveled from Kabul via Ishtui to the western head of the Parun vall...
The Horn, West Buttress. On July 31 and August 1, during a spell of perfect weather, Rodger DeBeyer and I climbed a 22-pitch route on the West Buttress (V 5.10+ Al) of The Horn. [The Horn and Unicorn Peak, especially as seen from the southwest, ar...
Of all the ranges round the world, the Wind River Mountains, right in my backyard, remain one of my favorites. Granite walls towering above idyllic green meadows, marmots chirping, pikas braying, trout jumping, and skeeters buzzing—it simply...
Patagonia, Southern Summer Season of 1986-7. The weather this season was not as good as last year and so few ascents have been made up to now, late February, 1987. On December 7, Slovenes Franc Knez, Silvo Karo and Johan Jeglic finished a new rout...
American Arctic Greenland Expedition. Our expedition operated in two groups: the Inland Ice Traverse party of Don G. Stevens and me and the Mountain party of John A. Wakefield, Bruce A. Sloan and Roger M. Singer. The Inland Ice Traverse party atte...
Shel Chakpa and Barbachen Peak, First Ascents. I had noticed Shel Chakpa (Balti for “white broken rock”) during a 1995 trip to Haramosh II, and on subsequent visits the following two years. Though a handful of parties pass it each year en route to...
Deo Tibba. Deo Tibba (19,687 feet) was climbed by an expedition of the Alpine Mountaineering Club of Japan. The team included three expert skiers, Y. Kawaguchi, K. Yano, and I. Takahashi, photographer S. Sirahata, and two climbers, Akira Okuyama, ...
Cordillera Raura. From July 8 through July 22, I conducted a climbing school in the Tinquicocha area of the Raura. My companions were Leslie Vanden Brock, Keith Jimmerson, Julie and Robert Carpenter and Ed Anderson. Having spent June in the Cordil...
The Yale Mountaineering Club has spent much time in emphasizing safety on its local climbs which, perhaps unfortunately, are held on near-by cliffs that do not lend themselves well to the establishment of a proper mountaineering attitude. Recently...
Varah Shikhar (Fang), West Ridge Attempt. On September 13 Scott Fischer, Joe Hladick and I were in Pokhara, ready for our nine-day trek to Base Camp. The monsoon broke the day before we arrived there, giving us for the first time a full view of ou...
Devils Tower, “Conquest of Tillie’s Lookout”, West Face. In early August Mike LaLone and I made a new route on the west face of the Devils Tower between the “Saber” and west-face routes. 1st pitch: Start left of a prominent roof 200 feet up. Mixed...
Oregon: (2) Cascades. On 3 June 1951 a party of 12 members of the Trails Club of Oregon climbed the South Side Route on Mt. Hood. Climbing conditions were excellent. The party was preceded by a group of about eighty Mazamas. After an hour on the s...
FALL ON SNOW, COMBING ALONE, AMS Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 6, 1989, Christopher Bing (30) flew to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to attempt a solo ascent of the West Buttress route of Mount McKinley. Bing allowed four days to reach ...
K2, Women’s Ascents and Tragedy. French climbers Michel Parmentier, Maurice and Liliane Barrard were joined by Pole Wanda Rutkiewicz. Both women had already climbed two 8000ers. Apparently the expedition was not a happy one from the beginning. Mau...
Bona, Wrangell Mountains. On June 16, Paul Klaus flew Paul Barry, Norm Lawler and me to 10,500 feet on the Klutlan Glacier, south of Bona (5029 meters, 16,500 feet). It took us a week in almost constant storm to move up and occupy Camp I at 12,800...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FayAfter completing an ascent of the north face of Mount Fay on September 16, 1991, Bill E. and a friend were descending the west ridge, when they reached a ten-meter step. In order to rappel, t...
Sosbun Spire. In 1986, Poles led by Janusz Skorek reconnoitered the little known Sosbun valley, west of the Biafo Glacier. This inspired a five-person Italian expedition to visit the region. Led by Paolo Vitali, they established Base Camp at 3800 ...