Cordillera Raura. From July 8 through July 22, I conducted a climbing school in the Tinquicocha area of the Raura. My companions were Leslie Vanden Brock, Keith Jimmerson, Julie and Robert Carpenter and Ed Anderson. Having spent June in the Cordil...
The Yale Mountaineering Club has spent much time in emphasizing safety on its local climbs which, perhaps unfortunately, are held on near-by cliffs that do not lend themselves well to the establishment of a proper mountaineering attitude. Recently...
Varah Shikhar (Fang), West Ridge Attempt. On September 13 Scott Fischer, Joe Hladick and I were in Pokhara, ready for our nine-day trek to Base Camp. The monsoon broke the day before we arrived there, giving us for the first time a full view of ou...
Devils Tower, “Conquest of Tillie’s Lookout”, West Face. In early August Mike LaLone and I made a new route on the west face of the Devils Tower between the “Saber” and west-face routes. 1st pitch: Start left of a prominent roof 200 feet up. Mixed...
Oregon: (2) Cascades. On 3 June 1951 a party of 12 members of the Trails Club of Oregon climbed the South Side Route on Mt. Hood. Climbing conditions were excellent. The party was preceded by a group of about eighty Mazamas. After an hour on the s...
FALL ON SNOW, COMBING ALONE, AMS Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 6, 1989, Christopher Bing (30) flew to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to attempt a solo ascent of the West Buttress route of Mount McKinley. Bing allowed four days to reach ...
K2, Women’s Ascents and Tragedy. French climbers Michel Parmentier, Maurice and Liliane Barrard were joined by Pole Wanda Rutkiewicz. Both women had already climbed two 8000ers. Apparently the expedition was not a happy one from the beginning. Mau...
Bona, Wrangell Mountains. On June 16, Paul Klaus flew Paul Barry, Norm Lawler and me to 10,500 feet on the Klutlan Glacier, south of Bona (5029 meters, 16,500 feet). It took us a week in almost constant storm to move up and occupy Camp I at 12,800...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FayAfter completing an ascent of the north face of Mount Fay on September 16, 1991, Bill E. and a friend were descending the west ridge, when they reached a ten-meter step. In order to rappel, t...
Sosbun Spire. In 1986, Poles led by Janusz Skorek reconnoitered the little known Sosbun valley, west of the Biafo Glacier. This inspired a five-person Italian expedition to visit the region. Led by Paolo Vitali, they established Base Camp at 3800 ...
The Arganglas Group, exploration and first ascents. During September a joint Indo-American- British expedition explored the previously unvisited Arganglas Group, which lies south of the Sasar Kangri Range. The Arganglas region is home to the Argan...
Nilgiri North. A Korean expedition led by Kang Han-Chul climbed Nilgiri North (7061 meters, 23,166 feet) by its southeast face. On September 7, Park Yong-Hwan, Kim Youn-Su, Maila Pemba Sherpa and Gomba Sherpa completed the sixth ascent. The next d...
Latok V (6,190m), attempt. The Japanese climber Moromu Omiya returned for his third attempt on the unclimbed 6,190m summit of Latok V. Omiya, who made the first ascent of Latok IV in 1980, attempted this small peak in both 1999 and 2000 via the so...
Noshaq, First Winter Ascent. A ten-man Polish team climbed Noshaq on February 13. Led by Andrzej Zawada, the other members were Tadeusz Piotrowski, Budny, Czechowki, Dmoch, Fijlkowski, Jedlinski, Koisar, Mierzejewski and Wozniak. Base Camp was est...
Cholatse. Cholatse (6440 meters, 21,129 feet) was successfully climbed by all members by the west rib to the southwest ridge. The summit was reached on September 26 by New Zealanders Martin Hunter, leader, Derek Chinn and Can Falkner and on Octobe...
East Africa International Mountain Guide. Andrew Wielochowski. West Col Productions, Goring, 1986. 151 pages, photographs, line drawings, maps, bibliography. $25.00 (U.S.).This is a welcome addition to climbing book shelves to sit alongside Guide ...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Icicle River Canyon, Snow LakesOn July 31, 1993, Rolf Sonnerup (28) was climbing on a popular rock face across the road from the Snow Lakes trailhead. His partner was 50 feet above Sonnerup and dislodged a rock that struck ...
Important changes were also found to have been taking place among the smaller glaciers. The terminus of Clear Creek Glacier has retreated very considerably during the last few decades. Glacial ice in the southwest draw up which runs the Sisson Tra...
Ak-Su, Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range. The members of our expedition were Christopher Watts, Caradse Jones, Jeremy Gore, Nicola Dugan, Siobhan Sheridan and I. Watts and I made a new line on the north face of Ak-Su (5355 meters, 17,569 feet) on June 2...
Washington—Mt. Daniel—Salmon La Sac area—On Sept. 1, a Mountaineer Experience Climb party of four was traversing unroped on a rock and heather slope on the way to Mt. Daniel. The three most experienced climbers in the party crossed onto a moderate...