Mount Everest, Attempt. Our expedition, “Comarques de Girona-Everest 1996,” was composed of seven members, all of them from Girona (Catalonia, Spain): Anna Agusti, Quico Campos, Jordi Tosas, Francesc Maso, Carles Figueras, Salvador Coll and Joan C...

Climbers on the Highest Point of Each Continent. It seems that reaching the highest point of each of the continents has become a North American specialty. The first to complete all of them was our member, Dick Bass, when he climbed Everest earlier...

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, TetonsPaul Gordon (36) was a four-year resident of Jackson Hole and a moderately experienced climber. On August 18, 1982, he and Maureen Flanagan hiked to Amphitheater Lake to practice snow climbing on t...

Cuerno Principal, South Face, Attempt. From January 24 to February 2,1999, Corrado Pipolo and Mauro Florit (Italy) climbed four new pitches (510d A1) on the south face of Cuerno Principal in the Valle del Frances before poor weather conditions for...

Knud Rasmussen Land, Sortebrae Mountains, first ascents. On May 27, 2006, a Twin Otter ski-plane transferred my group from Isafjordur in Iceland to N 69° 05.016', W 27° 38.879' on a tributary glacier feeding into the main Borggraven system. These ...

FALL ON ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, PLACED NO PROTECTIONNew York, AdirondacksOn January 29, 1984, Vic Benes fell during the approach to an ice climb on the south side of Lower Cascade Lake off Route 73 in the Adirondacks. The fall occurred after ...

FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONMontana, Beartooth Wilderness, Silver Run PeakOn August 24, around 0600, my wife, Rebecca Hodgkin, and I left camp —located just off the West Fork of Rock Creek Trail near Quinnebaugh Meadows—to climb Pensive Tower (III ...

Cottontail Tower, East Face, Fisher Towers. This is an area known for soft, dirty rock and aid routes with long bolt ladders. Mine was the first major route without bolts and other drilled protection. There were long run-outs of A4, with potential...

Roraima, Hotel Guácharo. Kurt Albert, Renato Botte, Ivan Calderon, Michael Thaler, and I established Hotel Guácharo (550m, 7a+) in February 2009. This southeast face route is equipped at belays, with the rest mostly traditionally protected. The ro...

FALL INTO BUILDING–MISCALCULATED PENDULUM SWING FROM CRANEColorado, BoulderOn December 6, Ryan Young and Jacob Fuerst climbed over the chain-link fence surrounding a University of Colorado construction site, and walked straight to the base of the ...

Taulliraju, east buttress, second ascent. Possibly the most notable event in the Blanca during 2002 was not the creation of a new route but the second ascent of a major line that had remained unrepeated for 20 years. Over eight days from June 26 t...

California: (3) Stinson Beach Cliffs, Warm Springs, Marin County. On 12 February 1950 Robert L. Swift, 19, an experienced member of the Sierra Club, from Alameda, Cali fornia, fell during a scheduled Sierra Club practice climbing trip on which he ...

Nevado de Pissis and Other Ascents, 1990. Italians led by Luciano Gadenz was active in early 1990 in the high, barren area south of the Ojos del Salado. The other members were Giacomo and Renzo Corona, Giampaolo Depaoli, Silvio and Tullio Simoni a...

At the end of July, Florian Hill (Austria and Germany) and Robert Rauch (Bolivia and Germany) began climbing new ice, rock, and mixed terrain below the gable- end of the southwest ridge of Illimani. The initial passages were threatened by large,...

Gasherbrum II, Italian Women’s Altitude Record. Our expedition, for reasons of permissions, consisted of Gabriel Slovina Ubaldini, Valerio Bruschi, Enrico Mutti, my wife Goretta and me, but Goretta and I actually operated completely independently ...

Niut 1, Coast Range. Victor Josendal, Harvey Manning, and Robert Sipe, all from Seattle, climbed Niut I (9,082 feet) during the second week of July 1955. We reached the summit of this unclimbed peak near Lake Tatlayoko after a day and a half backp...

Castleton Tower, North Face. Newsworthy is the first ascent of a new route on the north face of Castleton Tower, The Sun, The Moon, The Stars (IV, 5.11, A3+), climbed by Jim Beyer and Pat Mclnerny. Started in October, the five- pitch climb was com...

FALL ON ROCK, NO PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Grotto CreekOn May 20, 1990, W.M. fell while climbing on Grotto Slabs, sustaining cuts, scrapes, and bruises to his left hand, right thigh, and the right side of his rib cage. He continued climb...

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 26, a climber (33) was descending un-roped with his team members along the ridge below Washburn’s Thumb at approximately 16,500 feet. At this location the ter...

Rakaposhi Attempt. Twelve climbers from Crna in northern Slovenia attempted to make the second ascent of Rakaposhi’s north ridge, which was first climbed by Japanese in 1979. We established Base Camp, Camp I and Camp II at 3600, 4300 and 5350 mete...