Ruby Wall Cirque, Boom Town and Billy from the Hills. In June 2000 Jason Lakey and I completed a new route in the Ruby Wall Cirque in Little Lakes Valley above Rock Creek Lake. We climbed the main formation right of the descent gully used for Pter...
PULMONARY EDEMAAlaska, Mount McKinleyA three-member party, the Bavarian McKinley Expedition, flew to the Kahiltna Glacier on May 21 to climb the West Buttress. Their rate of ascent was very fast. They camped at 10,000 feet on the 22nd and at 14,20...
RAPPEL ERROR–FALL ON ROCKArizona, Tucson, Papago ButtesOn August 10 at 7:00 pm, Kyle Brown (22) plunged 50 feet off a cliff at Papago Buttes while teaching kids from his church how to rappel.It took rescue crews about an hour to reach Brown. Fire ...
Tilicho. Our expedition was led by Roger Emin and composed of Bernard Ravier, Marc Testut and me, all guides, Dr. Hervé Boissonnet and reporter Bernard Lagarrigue. We left Dumre, 100 miles from Kathmandu, with 72 porters on September 19, ascended ...
Fitz Roy, West Face Attempt, and Supercanaleta, Ascent. On December 6, 1997, Jack Tackle and I arrived in Chaltén to attempt a new variation to the unrepeated Czech Route on the 6,000- foot west face of Fitz Roy. The next four days were spent carr...
Gunsight Peak (Blue Mountain), New Routes on the North and Center Peaks. A six-day trip into the Glacier Peak Wilderness Area, near the head of the west fork of Agnes Creek, yielded two fine alpine granite routes on the faces of triple-summited Gu...
Langtang Lirung, South Ridge. All six members of a Japanese expedition led by Iwao Otsuka on October 28 climbed to the summit (7245 meters, 23,770 feet) via a new route, the south ridge from Camp IV with a bivouac.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club
Grupo la Paz, Various Activity, Previously Unreported. We met up with Andy McAuley and Vicky O’Malley in December, 1997, in Puerto Natales. Our plan was to make a first ascent on a mountain from the Grupo la Paz (a.k.a. Torres del Diablo). We wait...
Inspiration Peak, South Face. This impressive 1000-foot face in the Southern Picket Range was climbed for the first time on June 18 by Bill Sumner and me. Barraged by my admonitions that we were about to waste a good day on a bad climb, Bill pulle...
Devil’s Castle, new routes. Devil’s Castle is the beautiful, rocky, majestic mountain above Albion Basin, located near Alta ski resort in the Wasatch Mountains. At nearly 11,000', the 700-800' north face remained unclimbed until 1988 when James an...
Expeditions to the Hindu Kush in 1962. More details about the Polish expedition to the Wakhan Corridor in August and September, 1962, have become available. Two groups operated separately. Nine Poles from Kraków, under Stanislaw Biel, all climbed ...
Mount Hayes, Second Ascent by New Route, the East Ridge. After three smooth flights, Dan Osborne, leader, Mark Hottmann,Tom Hillis and I lay ready on the westernmost fork of the Trident Glacier at 6000 feet. We moved camp the next day to a ramp le...
Huandoy Este, East Face and Ocshapalca, South Face, Solo. In July, I made two solo ascents. The first, the south face of Huandoy Este, probably was not a first due to its proximity to the Pisco Base Camp, although I saw no signs of previous ascent...
Peaks in West Parun Valley and Zerago Peak, Bandaka Group. The Mount Yari Hut Party was composed of Minoru Murata, leader, Bunji Kobayashi, Susumu Hirose, and Katsuki Kohno. They traveled from Kabul via Ishtui to the western head of the Parun vall...
The Horn, West Buttress. On July 31 and August 1, during a spell of perfect weather, Rodger DeBeyer and I climbed a 22-pitch route on the West Buttress (V 5.10+ Al) of The Horn. [The Horn and Unicorn Peak, especially as seen from the southwest, ar...
Of all the ranges round the world, the Wind River Mountains, right in my backyard, remain one of my favorites. Granite walls towering above idyllic green meadows, marmots chirping, pikas braying, trout jumping, and skeeters buzzing—it simply...
Patagonia, Southern Summer Season of 1986-7. The weather this season was not as good as last year and so few ascents have been made up to now, late February, 1987. On December 7, Slovenes Franc Knez, Silvo Karo and Johan Jeglic finished a new rout...
American Arctic Greenland Expedition. Our expedition operated in two groups: the Inland Ice Traverse party of Don G. Stevens and me and the Mountain party of John A. Wakefield, Bruce A. Sloan and Roger M. Singer. The Inland Ice Traverse party atte...
Shel Chakpa and Barbachen Peak, First Ascents. I had noticed Shel Chakpa (Balti for “white broken rock”) during a 1995 trip to Haramosh II, and on subsequent visits the following two years. Though a handful of parties pass it each year en route to...
Deo Tibba. Deo Tibba (19,687 feet) was climbed by an expedition of the Alpine Mountaineering Club of Japan. The team included three expert skiers, Y. Kawaguchi, K. Yano, and I. Takahashi, photographer S. Sirahata, and two climbers, Akira Okuyama, ...