Mountains of Tartary, by Eric Shipton. 224 pages, with 30 illustrations by the author, one sketch map and end-paper maps. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1952. Price, 20/-.This is a fascinating account of exploration, hunting and climbing in Sinkian...
Mount Alan Campbell, Frigate Mountain and Other Peaks, Freshfield Group. On July 22 Jack Cade, Geoff Dougherty, David Henley, RonParker, Ernst Salzgeber and I helicoptered to a campsite some three kilometers east of the summit of Mount Alan Campbe...
Tsacra Grande, Cordillera Huayhuash. An Italian expedition from Bergamo, led by Annibale Bonicelli, climbed a number of peaks in the Huayhuash. Leaving Chiquián on July 20 they headed into the mountains and set up Base Camp in the Quebrada Seria a...
Arrigetch Peaks, Various Ascents. In early August, Stan Justice, Dean Justice, Ian McRae, Michael Williams and I flew into the Arrigetch Peaks of the Western Brooks Range. We cut our flight costs in half by flying from Graying Lake (near Prospect ...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall. The light clouds above camp suddenly parted and in the soft light brushing the wall above, Dave Mahre pointed out the route we would take that night. He indicated a schrund crossing, over near the Curtis Ridge side of t...
Washington, Mt. Si—On July 31, Stephen Steiner (15) and his brother Geoffrey (16) were climbing up the west flank of Mount Si. They became separated and Stephen reached a point where he could not climb up or down. His brother in the meantime had r...
FALL ON ROCK-FOOT HOLD BROKE OFF, PROTECTION PULLEDIdaho, Sawtooth Wilderness, Grandjean PeakOn August 29, Mick Riffie and myself (we are both from Boise, Idaho) were attempting a new route on the Northeast Face of Grandjean Peak in theSawtooth Wi...
Skilbrum Attempt. The only known climb of Skilbrum (7360 meters) was made in 1957 by Marcus Smuck and Fritz Wintersteller, during the famous expedition of Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger to Broad Peak. Our Base Camp was set up at an altitude of 5...
The Pneumatic bandage-splint illustrated on page 530 is gaining rapid acceptance by emergency first-aid and rescue units across the country for cutting or crushing injuries, fractures, and burns. Application is amazingly simple and fast: The extre...
Wyoming, Tetons, Practice Rocks Near Hidden Falls. On August 8 Richard Frisbee (25), John Baker, Roger Wolfe, and Roger Cook were taking the one-day climbing school offered by the Exum School of American Mountaineering. Peter Lev, the guide, had s...
Ruby Wall Cirque, Boom Town and Billy from the Hills. In June 2000 Jason Lakey and I completed a new route in the Ruby Wall Cirque in Little Lakes Valley above Rock Creek Lake. We climbed the main formation right of the descent gully used for Pter...
PULMONARY EDEMAAlaska, Mount McKinleyA three-member party, the Bavarian McKinley Expedition, flew to the Kahiltna Glacier on May 21 to climb the West Buttress. Their rate of ascent was very fast. They camped at 10,000 feet on the 22nd and at 14,20...
RAPPEL ERROR–FALL ON ROCKArizona, Tucson, Papago ButtesOn August 10 at 7:00 pm, Kyle Brown (22) plunged 50 feet off a cliff at Papago Buttes while teaching kids from his church how to rappel.It took rescue crews about an hour to reach Brown. Fire ...
Tilicho. Our expedition was led by Roger Emin and composed of Bernard Ravier, Marc Testut and me, all guides, Dr. Hervé Boissonnet and reporter Bernard Lagarrigue. We left Dumre, 100 miles from Kathmandu, with 72 porters on September 19, ascended ...
Fitz Roy, West Face Attempt, and Supercanaleta, Ascent. On December 6, 1997, Jack Tackle and I arrived in Chaltén to attempt a new variation to the unrepeated Czech Route on the 6,000- foot west face of Fitz Roy. The next four days were spent carr...
Gunsight Peak (Blue Mountain), New Routes on the North and Center Peaks. A six-day trip into the Glacier Peak Wilderness Area, near the head of the west fork of Agnes Creek, yielded two fine alpine granite routes on the faces of triple-summited Gu...
Langtang Lirung, South Ridge. All six members of a Japanese expedition led by Iwao Otsuka on October 28 climbed to the summit (7245 meters, 23,770 feet) via a new route, the south ridge from Camp IV with a bivouac.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club
Grupo la Paz, Various Activity, Previously Unreported. We met up with Andy McAuley and Vicky O’Malley in December, 1997, in Puerto Natales. Our plan was to make a first ascent on a mountain from the Grupo la Paz (a.k.a. Torres del Diablo). We wait...
Inspiration Peak, South Face. This impressive 1000-foot face in the Southern Picket Range was climbed for the first time on June 18 by Bill Sumner and me. Barraged by my admonitions that we were about to waste a good day on a bad climb, Bill pulle...
Devil’s Castle, new routes. Devil’s Castle is the beautiful, rocky, majestic mountain above Albion Basin, located near Alta ski resort in the Wasatch Mountains. At nearly 11,000', the 700-800' north face remained unclimbed until 1988 when James an...