Caullaraju Group and Santa Cruz, South Face and Southwest Ridge. Our expedition from the Tegernsee Section of the DAV was in the Cordillera Blanca from July 18 to September 14. We were Sepp and Hans Gloggner, Fritz Niedermaier, Alfred Müller, Walt...
Far East Nepal is best known for being crowned by the Kanchenjunga massif. Between there and Makalu the Himalayan crest makes an uncommon drop in altitude. Perhaps that is why climbers have not given peaks west of the Ghunsa Valley much attention....
Colorado Climbs. Carl Harrison and Scott Kimball climbed several new routes on Lumpy Ridge early in 1980. On Sundance they climbed a four-pitch route that follows the left-edge of the Dalke-Covington Flake; they named it Jetstream (F9) after its c...
Yale Mountaineering Club. During the active year of 1966, summer found members scattered widely in various climbing areas, including Chamonix, Wales, the Selkirks, Yosemite Valley and the Sierra Nevada, the Tetons, and at Seneca Rock, West Virgini...
Avalanche Handbook. David McClung and Peter Shaerer. Second Edition. TheMountaineers, Seattle, Washington, 1993. 272 pages, photos and drawings.Soft cover. $19.95.“I only hope that the snowpacks will understand that I have read these chapters and ...
Teepe’s Pillar, Teton Range, First AscentMessrs. K. A. Henderson and R. L. M. Underhill made the first ascent of this peak on July 18th, 1930. Leaving camp at Amphitheatre Lake at 5.30 a.m., the usual route to the Teton glacier was followed and th...
Nihon University Greenland Crossing Expedition and Mount Forel. Kinju Ikeda, leader, Tsugio Satsukime, Hiroshi Sagano and Tadashi Tawata were the crossing party. Training dogs and in support were Takayashi Oguri, Shoji Sugahara, Hiroshi Nagashima,...
Everest statistics and records in the spring season. The number of teams on Everest during the spring was 94. These ranged in size from one member with no Sherpa helpers to 29 members and 22 Sherpas. Perhaps surprisingly, the number of expeditions...
New Routes on Mount Waddington and Stiletto Peak. During two weeks in mid-August, a group assembled by Fred Beckey and consisting of him, Jerry Fuller, Don Liska and his wife Alice and me climbed in the Waddington region. We were flown to Ghost La...
P5280, Cordillera Raura. The mountain we climbed is 17,323 feet by triangulation, but my altimeter read only 17,015 feet. Arturo Soriano and I made the climb on Saturday, September 20, 1969 as part of a weekend that was cut short by bad weather co...
We cannot omit to mention a new record hung up under the guise of mountaineering. A young American imbued with the hurry and bustle of his native land climbed the Matterhorn, last summer, in 1 hour 50 minutes, from the Hörnli Hut and after a ten-m...
Mount Hunter’s Southeast RidgePaul Corwin, Dartmouth Mountaineering ClubWe jumped out of the plane and threw out our gear. Pilot Cliff Hudson wished us good luck and took off. A sobering but thrilling silence fell on us. At last we could begin!Whe...
Pik Troglav, Slovene Route. Tomas Jakofcic, Peter Meznar and Blaz Stres climbed the Slovene Route (ED VI 80°), a 1000-meter route on the north face of a subsidiary summit (5200 meters) of Pik Troglav. The lower part of the route followed a promine...
This is the eighteenth report of the Safety Committee and the fifth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. Data about accidents that occurred in 1963 but had not been previously reported have been included in the tabular material.The commi...
The Washington Pass Traverse. At the end of day two, August 25, Mark Allen and I had just completed three-fourths of a traverse that we’d talked about for three years, and we were about to bail and go home. Mark said he had to guide in Mazama the ...
SLIP ON SNOW Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn February 2, 1983, the four members of the Denali Winter Expedition, Robert Frank (38), Charles Sassara (26), Steve Teller (24), and Chris Hraback (27) flew to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. They p...
SLIP ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Palisade MountainOn August 19, two members of a week-long climbing camp based at the Great Cairn Hut were descending the north side of Palisade Mountain on intermittent snow sl...
An eleven-man expedition climbed in the Hindu Kush under the leadership of Andrzej Zawada. There were six Poles, four British and one American. They were divided into two groups. Group I climbed in the Mandaras valley, with Base Camp at 14,100 fee...
Birmingham South Greenland Expedition. Between May and September, the three members of the expedition Michael Kelly, Michael Rhodes and I, spent eleven weeks in the Tasermuit Fjord region of South Greenland. The fjord lies 75 miles northwest of Ka...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1988. For the third consecutive year, a new record was set for the number of mountaineers attempting to climb Mount McKinley. Mild weather and few major storms, combined with the increased ...