This, the tenth report of the Safety Committee, records the accidents which occurred in 1956 and have been reported to the Committee. In addition there are a number of accidents which occurred in 1955 whose reports came in too late to be included ...
BAD WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, AND AVALANCHE CONDITIONS—Oregon, Mt. Hood. Gary Schneider (16) of Weston, and Randy Knapp (19) and Matt Meacham (16) both of Walla Walla, Washington, who survived 17 days in snowcaves on Mt. Hood, came within 20 f...
Gasherbrum IV’s Northwest RidgeGreg ChildON MOST EXPEDITIONS, you are invited along, agree to go, often without knowing much about the peak, get swept along in the choas of organization, travel and penury, then arrive at the mountain. Only then do...
Maoist encounters fall season commentary. There were encounters by two expeditions, one in the Kangchenjunga area in far eastern Nepal and the other in the west on their way to Putha Hiunchuli, which is sometimes called Dhaulagiri VII. These teams...
Mount McKinley, New Route Variant on the Southwest Flank. Bernhard Ehmann and I climbed the prominent snow and ice rib which rises from the northeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier three miles from its junction with the main glacier. The rib ascen...
Cho Oyu, First 8000er by Spanish Women. Society in any country is composed of men and women and I believe we have equal responsibilities. In my country, Spain, few women participate in high-altitude climbing; I felt I should do something about it....
Canada: As of publication date, data and narratives from Canada were not available for this year’s report.United States: This issue marks a half century of the Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club. The Club constituted a Safe...
Four Against the KangshungEd WebsterFOR TEN MINUTES, no one spoke. We stared instead at the mountain flank before us, transfixed, unsure, agonizing. So this is what we had traveled halfway around the world to climb? The east face of Everest gliste...
K2, Ascents by Germans, a Kirghiz, an Australian and Swedes and Deaths on the Descent. The Northlight Expedition was led by German Reinmar Joswig and further composed of Germans Peter Mezger and Ernst Eberhardt, Kirghiz Anatoli Bukreev and Austral...
Classification of High Altitude Retinal Hemorrhage (HARH)Method of Reporting Findings and Request for Collection of Data on High Altitude Retinal Hemorrhage. Dr. Michael Wiedman, Harvard Medical School, 243 Charles Street, Boston, Massachusetts 02...
DORA KEEN HANDY 1871–1963Mrs. Handy died January 31, 1963, in Hong Kong on a journey around the world, active to the end and doing just what she wanted to. Only a year before she had told a friend that when her time came she would want it that way...
Mr. James Taylor Van Rensselaer, who, among many other climbs, made the third ascent of the Petit Dru in 1884 (A. C. Register iii, 246; A. A. J. ii, 509), a resident of California since 1890, has presented to the American Alpine Club his insignia ...
FALL ON SNOW – SKI MOUNTAINEERING, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, Middle Teton, Ellingwood CouloirAt 0140 July 2, Ryan Redmond (32), Ben Johnson, Rob Backlund, and Kevin Salys departed the Lupine Meadows trailhead intending to climb and then ski th...
Kilbuck Mountains, Western Alaska. During the course of an 18-day kayak trip on the Tikchik Lakes in July, my wife Sharon and I caught glimpses of an intriguing range of mountains, one which, it is safe to say, no mountaineer has yet explored. Les...
Daxue Shan, exploration. After his travels in southeast Tibet, Tamotsu Nakamura traveled to the Daxue Shan to inspect an unclimbed 6,000er south of the Minya Konka Range. On the way he photographed the Lamo-she massif southeast of Kangding (Lamo-S...
Denali, Butte Direct. On April 18, Jim Blow and I took Hudson Air to Kantishna and traveled 40 miles to the base of our climb at the end of the West Fork of the Tralieka Glacier. Earlier in the year we had Will Foresberg dogsled most of our heavy ...
TABLE III1951–93USA1959–93CAN.1994USA1994CAN.TerrainRock314136711217Snow1910286417Ice1677751River12300Unknown22600Ascent or DescentAscent284939510815Descent1740265499Unknown245211Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock20601958710Slip on snow or ice703...
The West Face-EI CapitanRoyal RobbinsTHE west face is the plain Jane sister of the Salathé Wall of El Capitan. It would be more distinguished were it not adjacent to one of the most sweeping and magnificent rock walls in the world, flanked as that...
Foraker—Denali’s Neglected WifeDonald J. GoodmanMount Foraker is a formidable mountain, and the route followed looked to be the only practical one. Its average standard is at least as high as that of a first-class alpine peak, and some of the pass...
AAC, Oregon Section. Many of our members achieved noteworthy goals or honors this past year. John Harlin III was appointed Editor of the American Alpine Journal. Jill Kellog was elected President of Cascades Mountaineers. Bob Speik organized Tradi...