FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn February 1, 1992, Michael Gardiner (31) fell while leading the Hobbit Roof (5.10). Gardiner's top piece of protection, a #2 Friend, pulled out, so he fell 30 fe...
An Austrian expedition was composed of leader Edi Koblmüller, Hans Bärnthaler, Robert Strouhal, Gustav Ammerer, Herbert Hutar, Dr. Herbert Habersack and Maila Pemba Sherpa. They had hoped to climb K2 by its east face but terrible weather prevent...
Golden Sentinel, north ridge, east face; The Chessboard. In August 2007 the Curbatt Group from the Menaggio section of the Italian Alpine Club celebrated its 25th anniversary by an expedition to the Suru Valley, where we hoped to climb a virgin su...
Hatteras Group: Traverses in both directions between Mount Hatteras and the small peak ("Squab") (first ascent), which biseas the Hatteras-Sugarplum ridge; two ascents of Sugarplum Spire, one via the grotesquely pinnacled southeast ridge (descent ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Ontario, Kelso Conservation AreaOn September 18, 1994, two young climbers, K.L. and J.L., met for the first time and went climbing. They climbed the route “Econoline,” fi...
Cho Oyu, West Side, Pre-Monsoon. A number of ascents of Cho Oyu were made in the pre-monsoon period on the western side of the peak. Spaniard Andrés Ruiz, of an expedition led by Eloy Sánchez, completed the 83rd ascent of the peak on May 8. Swiss ...
Barbican Peak, East Face. The farthest right in the grand lineup of majestic peaks in the Ramparts, Barbican Peak presents a great challenge of walls on the east and north. On August 25 Jerry Fuller and I climbed the steep snow and ice couloir bet...
Purkhang, first ascent. A large Japanese team and its Sherpas made the first ascent of Purkhang (6,120m), which lies in the Purkhang Himal south west of the main Damodar across the headwaters of the Labse Khola (west of the Teri La). The expeditio...
Wager With the Wind: The Don Sheldon Story, by James Greiner. Chicago-New York-San Francisco: Rand McNally & Company, 1974. 256 pp., 55 photographs. $8.95.Increasingly over the past fifteen years or so, Don Sheldon* has assumed legendary propo...
Cerro Adela Sur, New Route, and Traverse of Cerro Nato, Doblado, and Grande. It was reported that the German Robert Jasper soloed a new 1000-meter mixed route in 20 hours, giving it a grade of IV and 90°. Beginning in the early evening, he reached...
Mountains of Tartary, by Eric Shipton. 224 pages, with 30 illustrations by the author, one sketch map and end-paper maps. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1952. Price, 20/-.This is a fascinating account of exploration, hunting and climbing in Sinkian...
Mount Alan Campbell, Frigate Mountain and Other Peaks, Freshfield Group. On July 22 Jack Cade, Geoff Dougherty, David Henley, RonParker, Ernst Salzgeber and I helicoptered to a campsite some three kilometers east of the summit of Mount Alan Campbe...
Tsacra Grande, Cordillera Huayhuash. An Italian expedition from Bergamo, led by Annibale Bonicelli, climbed a number of peaks in the Huayhuash. Leaving Chiquián on July 20 they headed into the mountains and set up Base Camp in the Quebrada Seria a...
Arrigetch Peaks, Various Ascents. In early August, Stan Justice, Dean Justice, Ian McRae, Michael Williams and I flew into the Arrigetch Peaks of the Western Brooks Range. We cut our flight costs in half by flying from Graying Lake (near Prospect ...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall. The light clouds above camp suddenly parted and in the soft light brushing the wall above, Dave Mahre pointed out the route we would take that night. He indicated a schrund crossing, over near the Curtis Ridge side of t...
Washington, Mt. Si—On July 31, Stephen Steiner (15) and his brother Geoffrey (16) were climbing up the west flank of Mount Si. They became separated and Stephen reached a point where he could not climb up or down. His brother in the meantime had r...
FALL ON ROCK-FOOT HOLD BROKE OFF, PROTECTION PULLEDIdaho, Sawtooth Wilderness, Grandjean PeakOn August 29, Mick Riffie and myself (we are both from Boise, Idaho) were attempting a new route on the Northeast Face of Grandjean Peak in theSawtooth Wi...
Skilbrum Attempt. The only known climb of Skilbrum (7360 meters) was made in 1957 by Marcus Smuck and Fritz Wintersteller, during the famous expedition of Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger to Broad Peak. Our Base Camp was set up at an altitude of 5...
The Pneumatic bandage-splint illustrated on page 530 is gaining rapid acceptance by emergency first-aid and rescue units across the country for cutting or crushing injuries, fractures, and burns. Application is amazingly simple and fast: The extre...
Wyoming, Tetons, Practice Rocks Near Hidden Falls. On August 8 Richard Frisbee (25), John Baker, Roger Wolfe, and Roger Cook were taking the one-day climbing school offered by the Exum School of American Mountaineering. Peter Lev, the guide, had s...