Climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park, 1975. Ever since David Rearick and Bob Kamps in 1960 first climbed the Longs Peak Diamond, the impressive alpine wall has been appreciated both as a test piece and for its esthetic qualities. Other firsts si...
Everest. Ours was the first Everest expedition to consist solely of climbers from the Northeast of North America. We were Mark Richey, climbing leader, Marc Chavin, Barry Rugo, Gary Scott, Dr. Michael Sinclair, Dr. Richard St. Onge, Québecois Yves...
OVERDUE BACKCOUNTRY SKIER, MISCOMMUNICATION Washington, Olympic Peninsula and Cascade RangeIn late April 1988, Craig Peterson (32) left his housemates a note that he would be hiking and cross country skiing on the Olympic Peninsula. When he did no...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT-QUAL1TY OF ROCKUtah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Hellgate CliffsOn August 4, Daniel Filler (21) suffered a 15 to 20 foot ground-fall at Hellgate Cliffs in Little Cottonwood Canyon. He was climbing Dark Star (5.12a...
Haucaña, Cordillera Real. A South African expedition approached the Ancohuma massif from Milibaya. They went by road to the 13,000-foot Mina San Antonio, southeast of the Milibaya road and followed a trail for a mile to the glacier which descends ...
Aguja de la S and Aguja Kakito, 1994. On January 24, 1994, Kako Pardiñas and I made what may be a new route which traverses the southeast face. The six pitches ascend easy blocks with one more difficult pitch. On February 12, we made the first asc...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND INSTRUCTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Washington, Stevens Pass Ski AreaWhile practicing head-first glissade and self-arrest procedures with a group of 40 students and 14 staff from an Everett...
FALL ON SNOWColorado, Capitol Peak, Northwest RidgeOn Friday July 10, James Flowers (47), an experienced climber from Colorado Springs, and his partner set out to climb the Northwest Ridge of Capitol Peak (14,130 feet), one of the most challenging...
Vom Berge Verschlungen in Bücher bewahrt, by Helmut Presser. Bern: Schweizerischen Gutenberg Museums, 1957. 27 pages; ills. Price Sw. fr. 4.50.On August 25 (old style), 1618, the village of Plurs, near Chiavenna in the Bregaglia valley, was destro...
Mt. Rainier National Park (4) Echo Peak—On August 8, 1954, on a Tacoma Mountaineer scheduled climb of Echo Peak in Mt. Rainier National Park, a guest was struck on the head by a falling rock. He was climbing in a narrow gully fifteen feet from the...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn February 1, 1992, Michael Gardiner (31) fell while leading the Hobbit Roof (5.10). Gardiner's top piece of protection, a #2 Friend, pulled out, so he fell 30 fe...
An Austrian expedition was composed of leader Edi Koblmüller, Hans Bärnthaler, Robert Strouhal, Gustav Ammerer, Herbert Hutar, Dr. Herbert Habersack and Maila Pemba Sherpa. They had hoped to climb K2 by its east face but terrible weather prevent...
Golden Sentinel, north ridge, east face; The Chessboard. In August 2007 the Curbatt Group from the Menaggio section of the Italian Alpine Club celebrated its 25th anniversary by an expedition to the Suru Valley, where we hoped to climb a virgin su...
Hatteras Group: Traverses in both directions between Mount Hatteras and the small peak ("Squab") (first ascent), which biseas the Hatteras-Sugarplum ridge; two ascents of Sugarplum Spire, one via the grotesquely pinnacled southeast ridge (descent ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Ontario, Kelso Conservation AreaOn September 18, 1994, two young climbers, K.L. and J.L., met for the first time and went climbing. They climbed the route “Econoline,” fi...
Cho Oyu, West Side, Pre-Monsoon. A number of ascents of Cho Oyu were made in the pre-monsoon period on the western side of the peak. Spaniard Andrés Ruiz, of an expedition led by Eloy Sánchez, completed the 83rd ascent of the peak on May 8. Swiss ...
Barbican Peak, East Face. The farthest right in the grand lineup of majestic peaks in the Ramparts, Barbican Peak presents a great challenge of walls on the east and north. On August 25 Jerry Fuller and I climbed the steep snow and ice couloir bet...
Purkhang, first ascent. A large Japanese team and its Sherpas made the first ascent of Purkhang (6,120m), which lies in the Purkhang Himal south west of the main Damodar across the headwaters of the Labse Khola (west of the Teri La). The expeditio...
Wager With the Wind: The Don Sheldon Story, by James Greiner. Chicago-New York-San Francisco: Rand McNally & Company, 1974. 256 pp., 55 photographs. $8.95.Increasingly over the past fifteen years or so, Don Sheldon* has assumed legendary propo...
Cerro Adela Sur, New Route, and Traverse of Cerro Nato, Doblado, and Grande. It was reported that the German Robert Jasper soloed a new 1000-meter mixed route in 20 hours, giving it a grade of IV and 90°. Beginning in the early evening, he reached...