Tsaranoro Be, east face, Old Master. A seven-member Slovak team visited the Tsaranoro massif. In six days of climbing, during August 27-31 and September 3-4, Dusan Beranek and Richard Nyeki put up a new route, Old Master, on the east face of Tsara...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST,INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn July 14,1986, Steve Adkison (24), Abigail Mackey (21), Nicola Rotberg (20), Andrew Lewis (20), Herminio Delgado (21), and Alicia Zbehlik (22) set out to climb the ...
New Facts About Early Wyoming AscentsOrrin H. BonneyAn adventure into exciting new information spurred research for the Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas. (Reviewed in this issue.—Editor.)It soon became apparent that Fremont and ...
WHEN KENT MENEGHIN, Glenn Randall, Joe Kaelin, and I planned a route on Mount Huntington (12,240 feet), we wanted to keep pace with the trend in Alaskan climbing towards fast, lightweight ascents. Few of the routes being pioneered today could b...
Rakaposhi Attempt. We had hoped to make the first ascent of the east ridge of Rakaposhi. In 1985, Austrians led by Edi Koblmüller climbed to the east summit (7010 meters, 23,000 feet) via the north spur. Before we arrived, Japanese attempted the c...
The Rocky Mountains: A Vision for Artists in the Nineteenth Century. Patricia Trenton and Peter H. Hassrick. University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, in association with the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Cody, Wyoming, 1983. XIX + 418 pages, 129 bl...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. Sixteen new members during the year brought the total membership to 140. Ten local outings were held from April through October with attendance of 273 members and 200 guests. During the outing period, the Iowa Mountain...
West Face of the South Tower of Howser SpireFred BeckeyOne of the great mysteries in the Bugaboos has been the west faces of the Howser Spires, which are not only the most magnificent walls in the range but are on the highest and most alpine peaks...
Langtang Lirung, Swiss-West German and British-lrish Ascents. There were two successful expeditions on Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 23,734 feet), both by the southeast ridge. On November 10, Swiss Markus Baumann, Frau Dorothee Landolt, Martin Loc...
Les Courtes—Face NordYvon Chouinard“IN France we say that the third time is always lucky.” So we were greeted by the guardien of the Argentière refuge in the Mont Blanc massif. Layton Kor and I had been here two other times in futile attempts to d...
Everest 82. Moscow 1984. 360 pages, 162 pages of illustrations in color. Not priced.This account of the highly successful Soviet expedition to Everest describes the climb and some of the scientific data obtained. Eleven climbers reached the summit...
Longs Peak, East Face. On 5 July 1952, your correspondent, in company with his brother, Hassler Whitney, and Robert W. Craig, stumbled onto what proved to be a new route on the much studied East Face of Longs Peak. Approaching the foot of this imp...
Introduction to Mountaineering, by Showell Styles. 159 pages, 8 plates, 17 figures, glossary of climbing terms, bibliography, and 2 appendices. London, Seeley Service and Co. Ltd., 1954. Price 15 s.The novice mountaineer must certainly learn techn...
Abinger Afghanistan Expedition 1960. Early in 1959 permission was sought from the Afghan Government for an all-women expedition to travel in Wakhan and climb some peaks of the Pamirs from the south. This was refused but an alternative suggestion o...
Fall of the Phantom Lord: Climbing and the Face of Fear. Andrew Todhunter. Anchor Books/Doubleday: New York, 1998. 272 pages. $23.95.What is it about risk-taking behavior that endlessly fascinates the human mind? And why is it that so-called “extr...
Mount Foraker’s South RidgeWarren Bleser and Alex BertulisTWO close calls with horrendous rock avalanches at the base of the 8000-foot south wall of Mount Foraker (17,400 feet) led to the unanimous decision to concentrate our efforts on the virgin...
Mount Hayes, Southwest Face of the South Summit. Fred Beckey, Benno Ochenski, Dougal McCarty and I were the second group flown this summer by Wilson Air Service to the middle fork of the Susitna Glacier. At 7000 feet, it was an ideal location belo...
Himalchuli. An Italian expedition led by Dr. Annibalo Bonicelli failed to climb Himalchuli (25,895 feet) by the Japanese route of 1959, the northeast face. On the morning of May 8 at Camp VI at 23,525 feet, Mario Dottu fell whilst he was clipping ...
Ascents in the Cathedral Spires, AlaskaAlvin DeMaria and Peter GeiserIt sometimes happens in life that a practical joke leads to practical results; this article is the brief account of such an occurrence.In the June, 1962 issue of Summit magazine ...
Dhaulagiri IV. The Kamoshika Dojin party was led by Kazuyuki Takashashi and had 11 other members including one woman. They set up Base Camp in the Myagdi Khola at 11,325 feet on September 1. The first step was to climb as far as Myagdi Matha (20,5...