Sosbun Spires Attempt and P 5890 Ascent. Heinz Zak, Toni Ponholzer, Dietmar Sinnhuber, Rudi Sailer, Michael Larcher, Hans Ganzberger and I as leader were in the Sosbun valley from May 15 to the end of June. We had hoped to climb some of the 1200-m...
Singhi Kangri second ascent, and other peaks on the Siachen Glacier. It is reported that an Indian Army expedition, organized by the Corps of Engineers and led by Col. Dinesh Kumar, made the second ascent of 7751m Singhi Kangri close to the head o...
Tilitso Attempts. Briton Matthew Dower led six climbers on an attempt on the south ridge to the south face of Tilitso (7134 meters, 23,406 feet). They got to 6500 meters on October 20. French led by Guy Abert tried the northeast spur and reached 6...
Peak 6,920m, first ascent. A four-man Russian team comprising Valeri Bagov, Ivan Dusharin, Viktor Kolesnichenko, and (Russian-American) Lev Yoffe, made the first ascent of the unnamed Pk 6,920m, which lies on or close to the watershed ridge betwee...
Tirich Mir Attempt. Bill Dunaway, Chuck Hall, Fritz Stammberger, Vern Read and I attempted the South Barum Glacier route followed by the successful Norwegian party in 1950. We organized the trip in less than a month. After leaving Aspen on May 5, ...
Cho Oyu in Winter, 1993. An expedition of six Spaniards, a Swiss woman and an Argentine was led by Manuel González. They made two successful summit climbs from Camp IV on the normal route. They made Base Camp on January 13, 1993 very low, at only ...
Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows. Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein. Chock- stone Press, Denver, 1986. 140 pages, black and white photographs, line drawings. $13.95 (paper).This is an excellent revision of the authors’ 1983 guidebook, and it should be...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Icicle River Canyon, Snow LakesOn July 31, 1993, Rolf Sonnerup (28) was climbing on a popular rock face across the road from the Snow Lakes trailhead. His partner was 50 feet above Sonnerup and dislodged a rock that struck ...
Konwakiton Glacier was described and mapped by the early writers, but its lower portion as well as what is now Mud Creek Glacier were overlooked, apparently because they were covered with ash. At that time these glaciers must have been united and ...
Peaks in Pik Kommunizma Area. Between July 15 and August 12, Ace Kvale and I climbed in the Pik Kommunizma area of the Pamirs. We arrived in the Moskvina Base Camp by helicopter four days after leaving Paris. After a brief period of acclimatizatio...
Washington, Mt. Johannesburg—On 1 Sept., Tom Gibbon (33) an experienced climber was injured by a falling rock. While descending a steep heather slope on Johannesburg Mine trail on the N.W. flank and entering a rock and dirt couloir the party of fo...
FALL/SLIP ON ICE, BAD WEATHER—New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Huntington Ravine. Rick Welch (21) had soloed Pinnacle and was descending. He wanted to descend Lions Head to Tuck Trail but wind was so strong he decided to descend Central Gully. One-t...
Cho Oyu, Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt from the North. There were four successful expeditions that climbed Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,904 feet) by the normal west-face route. Eight Koreans led by Kim Kwan-Jun put Koreans Nam Sun- Woo, Kim Young-T...
Tombstone and Seraph. In September, my brother Jonathan and I climbed a 350-foot spire known by the locals as “The Tombstone.” This wide spire can be seen, looking south off Highway 70, about 15 miles east of Green River. After a 30-minute drive o...
RAPPEL FAILUREBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mt. AusterityOn 24 July 1978 Edward P. Nester and Julius Bede, both experienced climbers, attempted a new route on the northeast ridge of Mt. Austerity, 10,980 feet. At 1600 hours they had not rea...
FALL ON ROCK, LOOSE ROCK, FATIGUEAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount VictoriaI (35) was climbing with two friends, H.N. (32) and E.D. (26) on August 28. We departed from the Abbot Pass Hut early Saturday morning to attempt a south to north travers...
Torres del Paine, Various Ascents. In early March I traveled to Paine, took advantage of a good spell of weather and went with several friends to a base camp below Cuerno Chico. Several new routes have been done here this season, on Cuerno Chico a...
Queenstown region, summary. Queenstown’s Wye Creek became New Zealand’s focal point for sport-mixed climbing over the past winter. A number of climbers based themselves in the Wye valley cirque and developed mixed climbs up to grade M11. First to ...
Big Bend Gendarme, Mean High Tide. This route climbs the obvious crack system on the southwest face, facing the Big Bend shuttle stop. It can be recognized by the rubble stack in the fifth-pitch chimney. It reaches the top of the spirelike formati...
DROPPED GEAR, INADEQUATE FUEL AND FOOD, WEATHER, DEHYDRATION, EXHAUSTIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeA cell phone call late June 30 revealed that Mike Matelich and Larry Sverdrup were stranded on Liberty Ridge and in need of assistance ...