Stoves for Expedition UseRichard WilcoxWHEN WELL-KNOWN French climber, Yves Astier wrote Adams Carter asking him what high-altitude climbers in the United States thought about the stoves that should be used on expeditions, Carter felt that a poll ...
Chopicalqui, West-Northwest Spur. Our team was composed of Martine Rolland, the first women in France to be granted a guide’s license, her husband Jean-Jacques Rolland, Englishman Alan Roberts and me. We first climbed the southeast ridge of Pisco,...
Colorado Mountain Club, 1947. The Colorado Mountain Club enjoyed a very active year, with trips scheduled practically every week end. Skiing trips occupied first place during the winter season and, among the diehards, extended even into early summ...
Micah Dash 1977–2009In late spring 2009, Micah Dash, a 32-year old professional climber, died in a massive avalanche while climbing the east face of Mt. Edgar (6,618m), on the Gongga Shan massif, located in western Sichuan Province, China. The abo...
Mount Moran, Various Ascents. In July, I soloed South Buttress Drifter (V 5.10c) on the South Buttress of Mt. Moran. The route weaves through roof bands 150 feet right of the South Buttress Right. Three days and five nights were spent putting in t...
Chaturangi III (“Toledo Peak”), First Ascent. Chaturangi III (6393 m) lies in the Khalipet Bamak in the Gangotri area. A 10-member Spanish team from the city of Toledo led by Jose Maria Jayare approached the peak via Vasuki Tal during the month of...
The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain environments. The AAC awards more than $80,000 annually, although the size and number of awards va...
Oasis Peak, First Ascent. In July, Kelvin Vail and I left our homes in southern British Columbia and drove and ferried through the rain to Petersburg, where in the ferry terminal at 3 a.m. we stumbled into our climbing partner. Fred Beckey was biv...
Beyond the Limits: A Woman ’s Triumph on Everest. Stacy Allison with Peter Carlin. Little Brown & Company, Boston. 1993.What can you say about a book promoting Everest as “the world’s most challenging mountain” and which provides a rare close-...
Thunder Mountain, Paikea's Journey, and Mt. Providence, Divine Providence. Jeremy “Jay” Piggott of New Zealand and I based ourselves and friends on the southwest fork of the Tokositna Glacier during the last two weeks of May. We completed alpine-s...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. An expedition from Bergamo led by Augusto Zanotti made the third ascent of the Kinshofer route on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. They were three weeks on the mountain and established four camps. They found ladders and ...
After a first visit to the area in 2008 (see AAJ 2009), Robin Collins (Australia), Geoff Bonney (UK), Paul Walker (UK), my wife Sandy, Willem-B Stern (Netherlands/Switzerland), and I returned to the fine mountains of Paul Stern Land. The combined ...
THE EARLY-JUNE clouds finally part after two weeks of drizzly, miserable weather in the Ruth Gorge. Like clockwork Doug Geeting flies in with another hopeful group, allowing Mike Helms and me to depart. Maybe we can get above these depressing clou...
SYLVANUS JOHN EBERT1907-1996John Ebert, founder of the Iowa Mountaineers, Inc., was one of the great legacies in American mountaineering. While living in the heartland of the Midwest, in the middle of silos and cornfields, 800 miles from the close...
Dhaulagiri Attempt and New Route up the East Face. Marjan Kregar, Andrej Štremfelj, Dr. Iztok Tomazin and I planned to climb a new route to the right of the Kurtyka-MacIntyre route on Dhaulagiri’s 3500-meter-high east face alpine-style, reaching t...
Parón, Bartonellosis to summit mushroom. Owen Samuel, Mike Pescod, Tony Barton, and I set off up the Santa Cruz Valley on June 2, two days after arriving in Peru. We set up a camp at 4,700m on the moraine ridge below the northeast face of Artesonr...
The Central Howser SpireDAVID BERNAYSOn a spectacular camp on a rock island on the height of land between Pigeon Spire and the Howser massif, Dr. George Austin, James McCarthy, John Rupley and I assembled on the evening of August 7, planning our a...
Foraker, Northeast Ridge Attempt. Our party consisted of Louis Blöchlinger, Roger Habersaat, Remo Leiggener, Hans Ruedi Läogli, Swiss, and George Menard and me, Americans. We began on May 19 from the southeast fork of the Kahiltna and reached the ...
Shivling, West Ridge and Northeast Face. Boštjan Kekec, Rupar Uroš, Damjan Vidmar, Aco Pepelnik and I got to Base Camp at Tapovan on September 3, but on the 7th I left for New Delhi. I returned with food on September 13. Meanwhile Uroš and Kekec h...
Direct Southwest Face of Yosemite Valley’s El CapitanEdward CooperIN THE history of mountaineering the climbing developments in Yosemite Valley are uniquely and wholly American. Nowhere in the world has climbing advanced so far in so little time. ...