Mount Kiliak and Other Peaks, Western Chugach. This 7450-foot peak near Mount Yukla up the Eagle River valley had been the last virgin 7000-footer near Anchorage since the ascent of Mount Rumble in 1966. Dave Johnston, his sister Jill, my wife Gra...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount VictoriaOn August 12, a party of two were starting early up the North Ridge of Mount Victoria to the north peak after a bivouac at the Victoria Collier Col. The ridge is moderate ice with a fourth class ...
Bhagirathi III, South Buttress. This rock pillar was climbed for the first time in 1982 by two Scots. The climb was repeated on September 21, 1994, by the Basques Pablo Aldai, Carlos Arrieta and Felipe Uriarte, who placed five bivouacs on the face...
The Enclosure, North Ice Couloir. Immediately west of the central north buttress of the Enclosure, the west sub-summit of the Grand Teton, is a prominent ice couloir which joins the northwest ridge of the Enclosure at the first great step high abo...
A.A.C.: Cascade Section. William Eastman was elected chairman at one of the several meetings held in Seattle in 1951. Kurt Beam, with Erling Strom, made an ascent of Mt. Assiniboine. Among those climbing in the Alps were Edward LaChapelle, George ...
On October 23, Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell started up the Wall of Morning Light on what may have been the most difficult rock climb yet accomplished. The climb, which lies between the Nose and the North America Wall, was completed 27 days lat...
Temple Crag, Sunribbon Arête, Winter Ascent. Rising almost out of the shores of beautiful Third Lake, the north face of Temple Crag dominates the immediate area, its dark granite walls accented by snow-covered ledges and couloirs in deep winter. G...
Theodore H. (Ted) Church 1925-2008 Ted Church, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1963, died of cancer on December 25. A World War II veteran, Ted graduated from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology with a degree in mechanical enginee...
Chacraraju and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Javier Donés, Carlos Miguel Gallego, Ignacio Hernández, Francisco Pavón, Miguel Angel Vidal and me as leader. Our average age was only 21 years. From August 18 to 21, Gallego, Hernández a...
Mrigthuni, Garhwal. The members who organized and took part in the Bharat Scouts and Guides Expedition were all Indian women Guide leaders who had attended courses at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling. Though there was enthusiasm ...
The Talon. This 4000-foot spire is located across the canyon from the White Pass Highway about five miles east of the pass. The first ascent was made on September 24 by Dave Mahre, Fred Dunham, and Jim Wickwire. Using the Clear Lake approach, the ...
Pukajirca Central, West Face. An Italian expedition led by Mario Curnis climbed the difficult 3000-foot west face of Pukajirca Central but did not make the final few meters to the summit because of extremely bad weather. The other members were Aug...
Richardson Mountains, Traverse. In August, we completed the traverse of the Richardson Mountains above the 68th parallel. Peak 5,550' at the western rim of the mesa highlands was our mountaineering focal point. Our route proceeds from the Mackenzi...
Nevado de Carás I and Artesonraju. Nigel Hellewell and Albi Sole climbed the south face of the Nevado de Carás I (19,767 feet). The snow-and-ice face led to the final difficult six pitches of mixed climbing. Sole then teamed with Canadian Greg Spo...
The Friends of the Western Mountains is an informal organization, founded in 1926, to stimulate greater interest in and appreciation of the scenic beauty of the mountain regions of the western United States. Members receive a yearly series of pict...
Fremont Peak. The usual route on Fremont Peak starts from a high col on the southwest buttress which separates the drainage of the lakes below (west of) Indian Pass from that of the main Titcomb Valley. Several hundred feet east of this col is a p...
Mount Elbrus, Lower Dongasorun, North Face Ascent and Descent by Snowboard. In mid-May our Russian guide Misha (who was along as much for his mastery of the language as his knowledge of Elbrus), Wade McKay, and I made an ascent of Lower Dongasorun...
Ice Climbing Near Valdez. An explosion of activity in climbing new routes resulted from good ice conditions and increasing interest by locals and visitors, stimulated by the preparation of a guidebook to the area. Starting in early November, by th...
Illimani. A traverse of the three peaks of Illimani was made by three Argentines of the Club Andino de Mendoza, Guillermo Vieiro, Ulises Sila Vitale, Rafael Juarey, together with Ernesto Sánchez, a member of the Club Andino Boliviano. Climbing the...
Mt. McKinley, West Buttress, Patience for Purity. On June 12 and 13 Robert Adams and I climbed a new 3,500' route (Patience for Purity, Alaska Grade IV, 5.9 AI85°) on the western end of the west buttress of Denali. After an eight-day storm, which ...