Artesonraju, Southwest Face, Ski Descent. Our expedition was made up of Mssrs. Paret, Cortial, Chartier and me. After failing to climb Quitaraju and climbing Huascarán, on July 13 I climbed Artesonraju and made the first ski descent of the southwe...
Artesonraju, Aguja Nevada I and II, Huandoy Norte. The members of our expedition included Dave Marvin, Tom Schwarm, Peter Prandoni, Andy Tuthill, Josh Lieberman and me*. In late June we entered the Quebrada Santa Cruz and set up Base Camp below Al...
Charles B. Newhall, accompanied by Dr. Alexander Forbes and B. M. Smith, made a partial ascent of Blacktooth (13,104 ft.) in the Big Horn mountains of Wyoming, reaching an elevation of about 12,600 ft., which they believe to be the highest point o...
Bezingi Wall. José Bermúdez and Mark Gray made an alpine-style traverse of the ridge from Dykh-Tau (5198 meters) to Mishirgi East (4918 meters) between July 28 and August 5, crossing summits of Dykh-Tau (5198 meters), Pik Pushkin (5100 meters), Ba...
Ascarani and Soral Groups, Apolobamba Region and Illimani, Cordil- lero Real. As far as we know, we were the first Americans to visit the Macara valley, which lies between the Ascarani and Soral Este groups in the Nudo de Apolobamba. From a base c...
BAD WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount RainierOn January 20, 1981, two missing mountain climbers were successfully airlifted from the summit of Mount Rainier to safety. They had been nearly four days overdue in returning from their cli...
Kun. Our expedition had six members: Jan Mikeska, leader, Jan Jursa, Jan Matúš, František Polášek, Jirí Novotný and me. On September 9 we ascended for the first time with loads to Base Camp at 14,750 feet beside the Shafat Glacier. In the followin...
Chianti Spire, East Face. “Let’s see, the slide is here somewhere. …It’s an outer space-like hand crack . . . Looks fantastic! I wonder how steep that direct start is.” Once below the spire we changed our plans: “…It would be nice to get there dir...
Colorado, North Maroon Peak. On 22 April, Joe Fullop (19), Richard Alan Cole (19), and Ronald Fjeseth (19), left Gunnison at about 6:00 p.m. They drove that evening to the Maroon Lake Campground. They had sleeping bags and slept at the Campground....
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Garibaldi Provincial ParkOn September 1, 1985, two hikers left Black Tusk Meadows to scramble up Black Tusk (2200 meters). The night before, they had seen a P...
Titan, Fisher Towers, Sundevil Chimney. On April 28 Harvey T. Carter, Robert Sullivan, Tom Merrill and Ken Wyrick completed an eight-day, eleven-pitch new route on the Titan. This very direct and largely overhanging crack and chimney system rises ...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. We were Beda Fuster, Werner Steininger and I as leader. We got to Base Camp on September 21 at 5350 meters on the moraine between Lhotse Shar and Imjatse (Island Peak). We carried loads up the rocky spur to 5750 meters for thr...
Pili and Aguas Calientes. Sergio Kunstmann and Pedro Rosende, of the Santiago section of the Club Andino de Chile, carried out two expeditions to 19,830-foot-high Pili, the fine conical volcano which the Incas also knew as Acaramachi, the “rock sn...
Torre Norte del Paine, 1989. We arrived at Base Camp at 650 meters at the Italian Camp on December 8, 1989. On December 15, Ricardo Salsi and I left Base Camp shortly after midnight and in 12 hours reached the summit of the Torre Norte in the Pain...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWyoming, Devils TowerThis accident happened in 1986, but the details were not sent in until after publication last year.Scott Hardy (16) was soloing the Durrance Route on Devils Tower when he fell out of the...
Huandoy Sur, South Buttress. The Salzburger Expedition had as its goal Huandoy Sur’s 4000-foot-high south buttress. (Climbed by Americans H. Abrons, T. Frost, H. and J. Kendall, I. and L. Ortenburger in 1964 and Argentines Fonrouge and Suárez in 1...
Lover's Leap, Wet Mountains, “Dull Roar of the Putterman.” The Wet Mountains are probably the most beautiful Front Range climbing area that remain free of the massive crowds of climbers. In 1986 during a visit to the Crestone group, I got my first...
Swargarohini Attempts. Briton Nicholas Banks and a companion failed on the northern approaches of difficult Swargarohini (6252 meters, 20,512 feet). They established three camps during continuous bad weather and made final attempts between May 25 ...
Mazamas. The Mazamas, of Portland, Ore., held their 55th Annual Outing in 1948, from July 25th to August 8th, at Park Creek Pass in the Chelan Mountains of Washington. Inclement weather hampered the mountaineering program somewhat, but the followi...
A primarily French commercial expedition led by Paulo Grobel to 7,047m Gyajikang made the second recorded ascent of the mountain, via a partial new route, the West Ridge Integral. The first ascent of the peak was made in October 1994 by a large Ja...