Chockstone Peak, Beggars Can’t Be Choosers. In mid-August, Elisif Harro and I completed a nine-pitch route, Beggars Can’t Be Choosers (1,800', III+ 5.9+), up the north ridge to the west face of Chockstone Peak in the Sawtooth. The route features g...
Chitral. On September 4, the Austrians Markus Schmuck, Martin Gmachl and Walter Frisch, all of Salzburg, left Chitral for Base Camp at 13,600 feet on the Shayoz Glacier, which they established on September 12. They climbed Peak 22,490 feet, which ...
Mount Huntington Attempt. In June the University of Washington’s Tri-Peak Expedition, Neils Anderson, Chris Chandler, Alan Givler, Richard LeBlond, Malcolm Moore and I, made an attempt on the northeast ridge of Mount Huntington. Due to an unfortun...
Pico Bolívar, Northwest Buttress. On February 5, 1983, Jaime Bautista, of the Club Andino Venezolano, made the first ascent of the “pilar noroeste” of Bolívar (5002 meters, 16,410 feet), highest point in Venezuela. On March 3, ql984 César Pemalete...
Koh-i-Bandaka, East Ridge. The Nagasaki University Bandaka Expedition was led by Yoshinori Ichise and composed of Harumi Mizokami, Dai Ohtsuka, Kango Nakao, Tsukasa Matsuo, Sumio Narasaki, Masaaki Maenami, Isao Morimoto and Miss Atsuko Inomata. Af...
Geographical note: The Adamant Group, sometimes mistakenly called the Adamant Range or Mountains, is a subgroup of the Northern Selkirks. Thanks to David P. Jones, author of the Selkirks North and Selkirks South guidebooks, for the clarification a...
Hyalite and Yellowstone, new ice climbs. Hyalite Canyon is our gym here in southwest Montana, with world-class ice that’s been scraped over since the 1970s. These days, to pioneer new lines, one must get scrappy on chossy rock in order to reach ta...
San Lorenzo. On December 10,1986 my husband Gino Buscaini, Argentine Cristina Agued and I reached the summit of San Lorenzo by the easy route of the first ascent made by Padre De Agostini. We believe that ours was the fifth ascent. San Lorenzo was...
Sermilik Fjord, Southwest Greenland. On May 10, 1971 our Tyrolean Greenland Expedition set out from Nanortalik by chartered boat for four unclimbed-in ranges on the western shore of Sermilik Fjord, 50 miles away. We were Peter Tataitz, Arthur Haid...
Sakar Sar, First Ascent. Akira Miyazawa, Makoto Ishikawa, Kanji Kamei and Teruaki Suzuki, along with two high-altitude porters, were in the area from July 19-August 30. Base Camp was made at 4500 meters. From BC to Camp I (5100m), the team encount...
Hanuman Tibba. Hanuman Tibba (19,450 feet) was climbed on June 17 by ladies sponsored by Gujarat State Sports Council, without the assistance of any men. The members were Dolly Saher, leader, Renuka Swami, Usha Bhatt and Rita Patel.Kamal K. Guha, ...
Rasac Oeste, Cordillera Huayhuash. Tiziano Nardella led an Italian expedition composed of Elena Bordogni, Giorgio Brianzi, Franco Gastaldelli, Gianluigi Marini and Tullio Sprechtenhauser. From Base Camp at Jahuacocha, they set up Camp I at Rasacco...
The U.S. Forest Service has conducted in recent years an intensive campaign to prevent accidents, aimed particularly at its own employees. No special program has been organized, but there has been increased emphasis on registration of climbers at ...
Annapurna, Two Winter Attempts. Japanese led by Kuniaki Yagihara on the south face of Annapurna got to 7200 meters before too much heavy snowfall sent them back. On the north face Koreans led by An Chang-Yeul attempted the Dutch route. They claim ...
Bighorn and Cloud Peaks, Bighorn Range. The northeast face of Bighorn Peak is a two-mile-long convoluted rock wall embracing two cirques. We have found no record of ascent. On August 13 I climbed the southern-most cirque wall, up a prominent orang...
Oregon: (1) Cascades. John Howard, leader of a Mazama party, fell twelve feet while rappelling from the summit of Three Fingered Jack. The boulder to which the rappel rope was secured gave way. His injuries consisted of two sprained ankles.Source ...
HYPERVENTILATION-INDUCED CEREBELLAR ISCHEMIA (HICI)Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 30, 1989, the Penns Woods Expedition flew to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to ascend the West Buttress route of Mount McKinley. The party arrived at the...
K2. After a period of acclimatization, two Basques, Mari Abrego and Josema Casimiro, officially members of Renato Casarotto’s expedition but climbing independently, made a swift, illegal ascent of the Abruzzi Ridge of K2 in a five-day alpine-style...
Wrangell Mountains Traverse, 1993. During the whole of June, 1993, Charlie Wolf, Matthew Goewert and Minot Meser made a traverse of the Wrangell Mountains from west to east. They were ferried by plane to the valley between Sanford and Drum. From t...
HANDHOLD PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION (CHOCK PULLED)Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise Area, Rack of the Lake CragOn September 1, 1991, Andrew S. and his friend were rock climbing at the Back of the Lake. Andrew fell when a h...