Mountaineering Periodicals: Mountain, Ascent, Climbing, Off Belay, Mountain GazetteIn an age when general periodicals falter, there appears to be a plunge into specialized literature. Environment, camping and mountaineering are included in this se...
The JournalsWith the ever increasing activity in world mountaineering it has become more and more difficult to keep abreast of the literature in book form, and many readers are turning to the journals with their abridged accounts of large-scale ex...
DISLODGED ROCK – FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUEWyoming, Grand Teton, Black DikeOn July 17 around 1200, Paul Iman (23) contacted Rangers G.R. Fletcher and D. Hardesty at the Lower Saddle of Garnet Canyon. He was returning from the Black Dike area about a qu...
Early American Ascents. (Additional notes follow, with page references to the book published by the Club in 1943.) P. 1: In 1748, the young Quaker, Francis Rawle, introduced the Philadelphia custom of making the Grand Tour, scions of wealth and ge...
Our original plan was to approach Yangmolong from Sanglongxi (pronounced song-lung-see, a.k.a. Sanchu) Valley and climb from the east. We arrived in the valley on October 17 and spent the night in the lower village, which has a population of ca 30...
Chaupi Orco Area, Various Ascents. A 19-strong German Alpine Club Youth expedition (JDAV), accompanied by Bolivian guide Aldo Riveros, made a number of first ascents and new routes in the Chaupi Orco area from August 14-20, 1995. On the ridge to t...
Copap I, II and III Traverse, 1978. In July of 1978 Norman Benton and I camped at 17,050 feet on the Copap plateau. We crossed snow-fields to the lowest point in the ridge between Copap IV and Copap III. From there we followed along the ridge over...
Left Twin Brother, Ghetto Brother. Over six days in late October, Eric Draper, Bryan Bird, Kirsten Kremer, and I established the 1,700-foot Ghetto Brother (VI5.10 A3, 11 pitches). The route follows dihedral features just right of center on the spo...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Maroon BellsThe body of a Carbondale minister, killed when he slid out of control down an icefield while mountain climbing, has been recovered by military helicopter from the 13,200-foot level of Maroon ...
Pasu I, Ski Ascent and Descent. After a 26-hour bus trip up the Karakoram Highway, we took two days to reach Base Camp at 4000 meters on a flowered meadow up the large Pasu Glacier. We spent the next days finding a good route up the trough beside ...
Idaho, Sawtooth Range, Mt. Heyhurn. On August 27, Gerald Fuller (27) and James Ball (34) were attempting an untried sixth-class ascent of the North face of Mt. Heyburn. Fuller had climbed 20 ft. above his belayer to the top of a small block. Then ...
SNOW BLINDNESS, ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESSAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 15, both a South African McKinley expedition, consisting of Ian Bailey, Steve Camp, and Anthony Tonder, and a Taiwan Chen expedition consisting of Boa Hwan You and Mei Hsing Chen...
Bhrigupanth, Southeast Face. It was reported that Karel Stkora led an eight-man expedition from the Czech Republic that successfully climbed Bhrigupanth (6772 m) on September 27 via the southeast face. (High Mountain Sports 174)
Moose’s Tooth Attempt and Barrille, 1984, In April 1984, Dave Jones and I spent ten days in the Ruth Gorge. We first explored variations for reaching the lower snowfields of the German route on the Moose’s Tooth. On the southern face above the ice...
FALL INTO CREVASSEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca GlacierNear noon on May 9, 1982, Peter Aitchison (39), Dorland Brown (31) and Everett Fee (36) (all experienced in mountain touring) were skiing up the middle of the Athabasca Glacier in the Ca...
Mount Stuart, Lost Planet Airmen. Between the northwest face and north ridge on Mount Stuart lie several pitches of superb crack and slab climbing. On June 27, Tobin Kelly and I climbed through small séracs just left of the northwest-face route an...
Boola Boola Buttress, Black Velvet. On our fall’s first foray into the obscure and unknown, on August 16 Jens Holsten and I explored the exceedingly featured granite of Boola Boola Buttress. Unable to locate the 1984 Jim Yoder route, due to a vagu...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. A nine-man Austrian expedition led by Adolf Huber attempted the standard route, the northeast ridge. They placed three camps and reached 22,650 feet on September 26. Then came a four-day storm that destroyed so much equipment a...
Kilimanjaro, Breach Icicle. On July 21 Scott Fischer and Wes Krause completed the first American ascent of the Breach Icicle (the Breach Wall Direct) on Kilimanjaro. The only other ascent was made in 1978 by Reinhold Messner and K. Renzler.
Mrigthuni. An Indian expedition made the first ascent of 22,490-foot Mrigthuni on the southern rim of the Nanda Devi basin in Garhwal. On June 19 Gurdial Singh (leader), Aamir Ali, Rajendra Vikram Singh, and two Garhwali porters reached the summit...