Broad Peak Attempt. A French expedition led by Michael Vincent and composed of Yves Astier, François Rebuffet, Jean-Claude Chaix, Marc Donzelle and André Berthet unsuccessfully attempted Broad Peak. Astier made a solo attempt from May 28 to June 2...
Tragedy on Chopicalqui. Three German climbers, S. Tilman, Ulrich Bernard and D. Albrecht, were swept to their deaths by a windslab avalanche down the northern slopes from near the summit of Chopicalqui.
Bífida, Ridge Between Cuatro Dedos and Bífida, and Cerro Grande. Gerold Dünser and I were based at the Bridwell Camp near Laguna Torre from January 20 to March 24. Our objective was to climb the Egger-Maestri route on Cerro Torre, but knowing how ...
Mount Fairchild, Honcho Boncho Buttress, Rocky Mountain National Park, 1992 and 1994. On June 20, 1992, Doug Byerly and I climbed a new line on the Honcho Boncho Buttress (east cirque) of Mount Fairchild. Power Struggle ascended the prominent dihe...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Petit GreponOn July 6, 1991, at 1200, Mike Dobry (24) took a lead fall on the 5.8 crux of the South Face of Petit Grepon in Rocky Mountain National Park. He sustained an open...
STRANDED, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE, PARTY SEPARATED Quebec, Old Stoneham CliffsLate on August 22, 1993, Benoit L. (24) and Stephan G. (25) decided to climb Old Stoneham bluff, and started up with minimal equipment that included a rope, flashlight, an...
Api, ascent. This rarely visited 7132m peak was climbed on October 6 and 8 by five members of Ayumi Nozawai’s six-man Japanese team. The climbers, all members of the Barbarian Club, established base camp at 4000m in the Api Khola and then repeated...
Broad Peak North. Our expedition of firemen from Tarragona took twelve days to get to Base Camp at 4900 meters, having difficulties with the porters and the sirdar. The route we took was a repeat of that climbed by Poles Kurtyka and Kukuczka in 19...
Draupadi-Ka-Danda and Jaonli Ascents and Tragedy. A 29-member Japanese team to Draupadi-Ka-Danda and Jaonli was led by Yoshiki Yamanaka. There were four instructors and the rest were divided into a basic course and an advanced one. Their original ...
Mountaineers. At the time of going to press, we have unfortunately received no summary of the year 1948 from the Mountaineers, Inc. On the basis of evidence to be found in other communications, one surmises that excellent proof of continued activi...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. The Blue Ridge Section reorganized in 1986 with the election of new officers. The Section wishes to extend its invitation to other Club members to take advantage of our location in “Lobby City, U.S.A.,” for pursuing cli...
Baruntse in the Post-Monsoon. Baruntse (7129 meters, 23,389 feet) continues to be one of the most popular peaks in Nepal. In the autumn seven expeditions climbed or attempted the peak, all but one on the normal southeast ridge. The expeditions, le...
Zang Brakk, Czech Start Canadian Pinish. I was coming to the end of my summer guiding season in the Alps when I applied for the John Lauchlan Award to pursue my dream of exploring new routes in the Karakoram. After Lilla Molnar—a good friend and s...
Igdlorssuit Havn Tower, West Face, Ujarak. Five climbers from Croatia (Boris Cujic, Darko Dular and Vladimir Pausic) and Slovenia (Miha Kajzelj, Igor Kalan) climbed in Igdlorssuit Havn, in south Greenland, from July 23 to August 8. We made a first...
Denali: Deception, Defeat and Triumph (Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001; hardbound, $38) collects the works of Frederick Cook, Belmont Browne, and Hudson Stuck—“the stories of the fake, the almost, and the actual first ascent”—together in one...
Huascarán Norte, Northeast Buttress Variant, 1980. On June 21, 1980 J-M. Boucansaud and I completed a variant of the French route of 1973 led by Maurice Barrard on the lovely northeast buttress of Huascarán Norte. The first three rope-lengths were...
Johnson Mountain, West Face, Mojo Rising. Located on the left-hand side of Johnson Mountain, Mojo Rising (IV/V 5.10 A1, 9 pitches, 3 bolts) was first climbed in April by Dave Littman and I. It climbs the obvious and vertical crack system that term...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION, RAPPEL FAILURENew Hampshire, Whitehorse LedgeOn January 31, Clin Cummins (21) was leading the second pitch of a vertical icicle which then ascends 80 feet up a slab of 60-degree ice. He fell 200 feet to the base ...
Chaukhamba II, Northwest Ridge. A nine-member Korean expedition, led by Nam Ki Chang, climbed Chaukhamba II (7068 m), which is situated at the head of the Gangotri Glacier, on May 14 via a new route on the northwest ridge. Summitters were Cho Chul...
McGinnis Peak, East Face, Hayes Range. “Cutthroat Couloir” forms the right comer of the east face of McGinnis Peak with the southeast ridge on its left side. Our ascent of the peak by Cutthroat Couloir may be the most difficult climb yet done in t...