Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, "Wolf Peak, Howling Ridge"

“Wolf Peak, Howling Ridge.” This route is located on the north ridge of the minor summit between Sperry and Vesper peaks. Viktoria Stepitova and I approached the climb via the Headlee Pass trail, then over the pass between Sperry and Vesper into t...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

1951-631964GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeaths TotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta10410426British Columbia13724518Yukon Territory101000Quebec111000United StatesAtlantic — North571973529— South2...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Gurney Peak and P 8520, Kichatna Mountains

Gurney Peak and P 8520, Kichatna Mountains. (See USGS map, Talkeetna B6). The north buttress can be seen from the “Glacier of the Shadows” (so named by the Roberts Party, A.A.J., 1967) which runs directly north from the summit of Gurney. The buttr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Attempt on Nanda Devi, Ascent of Devistan I, Maiktoli, and Trisul, Garhwal

Attempt on Nanda Devi, ascent of Devistan I, Maiktoli, and Trisul, Garhwal. Our trip this year was the sequel to a reconnaissance we had made to the Nanda Devi area last summer; it was financed by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, the Mount Ev...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Various Activity

Cerro Torre, Various Activity. Beside the ascent mentioned above, the Compressor Route saw only one other repeat this season: Heinz Zak, Peter Janschek and Elmar Springer (Austria) climbed it on February 21. The Austrians as well as the Americans ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Climbs in the Western Cariboos

Climbs in the Western Cariboos. In August Alex Fabergé, Don Hubbard, Linnea Stewart, Art Wilder, my wife Nancy, our one-year-old daughter Mai-Britt and I helicoptered into a 5700-foot Base Camp at Tranquility Lake, three miles east of 9800-foot Mo...


Accident Reports ANAM
New York, Shawangunks

New York, Shawangunks. On 12 November, Matt Hale and Kevin Bein (18) were doing a climb named “Sultana.” They had finished one pitch and Bein set off to lead the second, while Hale belayed on a ledge about 20 feet off the ground. Bein clipped thro...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Redoubt

FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RedoubtOn August 25, 1985, three highly experienced climbers were ascending a chimney on the west face of Mt. Redoubt. About 12 meters above a belay station, the leader dislodged a large boulder, raining...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Climber's Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia

A Climber’s Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia by William Lowell Putnam, based on previous editions by J. Monroe Thorington. Fourth Edition. New York: American Alpine Club, 1963. xvii + 248 pages, 16 plates. Price $4.50 ($3.50 to mem...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Kolana Rock, North Face

Kolana Rock, North Face. On Memorial Day weekend, Warren Harding and I made the first ascent of this 1800-foot face in Hetch Hetchy Valley. An attempt in March had failed after three awkward aid pitches, a bivouac, and an oncoming storm. We left o...


Book Reviews AAJ
Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas

A Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra, edited by Hervey H. Voge. Second edition. San Francisco, Sierra Club. 298 pages, 16 glossy prints, 33 sketches. Price $4.75.The second edition of this Climber’s Guide is a basic necessity in the library of all...


Book Reviews AAJ
Minus Three

Minus Three, by Gene Mason, Englewood Cliffs, N.J.: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1970. 190 pages, 12 color photos. $7.95.Dr. Gene Mason, specialist in anesthesiology at an Everett, Washington, hospital, writes this personal account of his ascents of the h...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountaineering In Scotland

Mountaineering In Scotland, by W. H. Murray. 8vo., xii, 252 pp., 31 photographic illustrations, 5 maps. New York, 1948: The Macmillan Company. Price, $4.50.None of the Scottish mountains rises much above 4000 feet, and their average elevation is c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Attempts on Saraghrar and Other Peaks

Attempts on Saraghrar and Other Peaks. The Bayerland section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) was led by Heinz Köbrich, and further composed of Erich Griessl, Walter Kellermann, Sepp Rieser, Jürgen Vogt and Fritz Widerer. Not receiving permission f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nuptse, Southeast Buttress Winter Attempt

Nuptse, Southeast Buttress Winter Attempt. Americans Jeff Lowe and Marc Twight did not get quite as high on their buttress in the winter as they had last spring. This winter they abandoned their climb after reaching 6700 meters on December 31. The...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Ojos del Salado, El Solo and Other Peaks

Ojos del Salado, El Solo and other peaks. A joint expedition by the Polish Academic Speleological Club and the Federatión de Andinismo de Chile chose the massif of Ojos del Salado to carry out a program of climbing and scientific research. The gro...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Lowering Error, Communication Problem, Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon

FALL ON ROCK–LOWERING ERROR, COMMUNICATION PROBLEMUtah, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn June 16, Doug Grennan (18) and eight friends were top-roping sport climbs in the upper S-Curves area of Big Cottonwood Canyon. Doug was climbing a 5.10 route on the ri...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. The club membership has grown to 1200. Once again the year was an unusually active one. Many of our courses and mountain camps were again offered for credit by the University of Iowa. Under the instruction of John and Jim Ebert,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Torre Norte del Paine, 1989

Torre Norte del Paine, 1989. In October and November of 1989, John Catto and I traveled to Chilean Patagonia to attempt the Central and North Paine Towers. On October 26, we established our Base Camp at the traditional Campo Italiano in perfect we...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat, Wisconsin, Devil's Lake State Park

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn June 18, 1987, Jon Currie (24) was climbing Berkeley when he fell from 12 meters. His foot became entangled in his harness, which caused him to turn upside down....