West of Eden. A History of the art and literature of Yosemite. David Robertson. Yosemite Natural History Association and Wilderness Press. 174 pages, 27 color plates, 72 black-and-white plates. $29.95 hardcover; $19.95 paperback.David Robertson ha...
Living Dangerously, by F. Spencer Chapman. 253 pages, with 28 illustrations and 4 maps. New York: Harper & Bros., 1953. Price, $3.00.This book is short, well-written, and full of brief anecdotes of adventure, which can be enjoyed even if read ...
After our ascent of Przhevalskogo, the plan was for Boris Dedeshko and I to traverse over Khan Tengri (6,995m) to the South Inylchek Glacier, where Gennadiy Durov would be waiting for us. From there we would attempt a new line on the north face ...
Mountain Rescue Council, Seattle, Washington. Bolstered by local climbers, many of whom are active members of A.A.C., as well as by hundreds of civic-minded citizens and business firms, MRC continued during 1956 its program of rescue, rescue train...
FRITZ HERMANN ERNST WIESSNER 1900-1988Bom in Dresden on February 26, 1900, Fritz Wiessner was an active climber from his earliest youth. Practising on the pinnacles of the Elbe Sandstein Gebirge, he became one of the best climbers in the area by t...
Suma Brakk, first ascent; Latok I attempt; Choktoi Tower, new route to just below summit. On June 15 Doug Chabot, Steve Swenson, and I arrived in base camp on the Choktoi Glacier for an attempt on the unclimbed north ridge of Latok I and other pea...
THE WHOLE DAY had been cold, stormy and very unproductive. Three hundred feet of wallowing had been the sum total of our efforts. Dejected and frustrated, Dave and I rappelled back to our bivouac. This was my third time on the Isis face and I wasn...
Tim Sell and I had just finished climbing Mescalito (VI 5.9 A4) on El Capitan. It was Halloween evening. Although it was getting late, we thought we could make it down the rappels to the bottom of the East Ledges before it got dark.We repacked our...
Pumasillo and Mellizos, Cordillera VilcabambaCarlos BuhlerTHE STEAMING JUNGLES of southeastern Peru seem a strange place to begin an exploration of the northeastern side of the Pumasillo massif. Hidden from all but the most remote mountain trails,...
Labchi Kang Group, first ascents. Duncan Chessell’s Australian-Icelandic commercial expedition, which was successful on Cho Oyu, putting three out of its four members and two Sherpas on the summit over two days in mid May, first acclimatized on on...
New York, Shawangunks (1)—On April 5, Donald Hetz (20) and Jim Walker (20) of the Yale Mountaineering Club, set out to climb the “High Corner”, a Class 5 rock climb in the Shawangunks. Hetz, leading, climbed up about 12 feet to a large ledge and c...
The Minya Konka ClimbTerris MooreOUR Sikong Expedition spent three months in and about the Niarong Range on the Sikong-Szechwan border in southwestern China, before the summit of the main peak was attained. The month of August, 1932, was devoted b...
FALL ON ICE, EQUIPMENT FAILUREAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount AberdeenOn August 20, L.S. (40) was guiding K.B. (61) on Mount Aberdeen. They reached the toe of the Aberdeen Glacier at approximately 0700. They moved together on a two-meter short...
Aguja Bifida, West Face, Various Ascents. It was reported that Italians P. Cavagneto, R. Giovanetto, M. Motto, G. Predan, and C. Ravaschietto climbed two striking new lines on this seldom-visited formation. Hielo y Fuego (535 meters, 6b A3), which...
Thalay Sagar, North Face, Attempt. Jay Smith and I arrived at Base Camp on August 28 to climb a new route on the north face, which Andy Selters and I had attempted in 1986. Every day until September 17, we endured fog with spells of drizzling rain...
The Darran Mountains, summary. Despite their isolation and high rainfall, Fiordland’s Darran Mountains are New Zealand’s current forcing ground for rock climbing—both alpine and crag. The rock quality and virtually unlimited quantity of future lin...
IdiOdyssey. In April James Garrett and I climbed a new route (V 5.10 A2+) via a crack system on the 1,000' wall left of Swoop Gimp. This route, which I began with Brian Cabe, climbs the first two and a half pitches of Swoop Gimp, then branches lef...
FALL ON STEEP ICE WHILE SKIINGWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeA climber at Thumb Rock high camp on the Liberty Ridge called Mount Rainier National Park with a cell phone on the evening of May 24 to report that his climbing partner was miss...
Coleman Glacier Face, Mount Baker. A new variation of the Coleman Glacier (northwest) face route was made in May by Hank Mathers and Les MacDonald of Vancouver, B. C. From the ice funnel at the base of the 2000-foot summit wall they climbed direct...
Mount Harrison Smith, Direct East Face, Echelon Spire, Southeast Ridge, and Lotus Flower Tower. In June leader Syuichi Okada, Toshiyuko Arai, Masahiko Suga and Ms. Kinuyo Hagiwara climbed in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Logan Mountains. O...