The Last Step: The American Ascent of K-2, by Rick Ridgeway. Seattle: The Mountaineers, Washington, 1980. 352 pages, including 32 pages of color photos $25.00.Take fourteen people of varying personality, profession and inclination; add an extended...
Ren Land, exploration, science, and first ascents. Following a successful expedition to neighboring Milne Land in 2004, 50 members of West Lancashire County Scouts again left the U.K. in July for the Arctic. Our final destination was to be the rar...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY AND PROTECTION, OVER-CONFIDENCEWashington, Mount AdamsOn July 19, 1985, Jeff Hancock (33) and Frances Olszewski (43), with two others, were climbing Mt. Adams via the Adams Glacier when the following events occurred.T...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Redgarden WallOn May 23, a male (22) was free-soloing the route Smoke and Mirrors, rated 5.10a, high on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Cany...
Cerro Tórtolas. A German scientific expedition enlisted aid of the Chilean government to carry out biological research and experiments on the human body on the high peak of Tórtolas (20,744 feet). The Germans, led by Hans Albrecht, were supported ...
The Ice Experience, by Jeff Lowe. Chicago: Contemporary Books, 1979.211 pages, with photographs. $6.95.After writing much of Yvon Chouinard’s ice book, I was naturally curious to see what Jeff Lowe would do with the subject. But before I would see...
Juan Tarditti and I arrived in Cochamo, Chile, mid-February 2010 after a long rainy season. The trails that approach the Refugio Cochamó in La Junta had become rivers; people and horses were engulfed in knee-deep mud. We arrived to stories of ra...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT,DISTRACTIONMassachusetts, Chapel LedgesOn May 16, 1987, James Stow (73), a veteran Westfield climber, fell 15 meters to his death as he was preparing a rappel for a teenage church group. He was tying...
Cordillera Meliquina, Cerro Meliquina (2,602m), northeast face. Our group of eight NOLS instructors left Coihaique on December 24, reached Rio Leones, then turned west and traveled up the Leones Valley toward Lago Leones, as far as Rio Meliquina...
LYMAN SPITZER1914 - 1997On March 31, we lost a distinguished astrophysicist and an accomplished mountaineer when Lyman Spitzer died suddenly at his home in Princeton, New Jersey.Lyman was born in Toledo, Ohio, and obtained a Bachelor’s degree in p...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HELMETCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Church BowlOn August 31, Tomoki Shibata (22) led Church Bowl Tree, a 5.10b crack, belayed by Hiroki Kishi. Shibata left his helmet at the base of the climb because the rout...
The International Spantik ExpeditionDifferent styles on the Golden PillarMikhail Davy, Russia, and Marko Prezelj, SloveniaPrezelj article translated by Ana PercicMarko:At the end of the summer of 1987, Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders started their...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, look back on 1972 as another year of high level activity in its climbing, hiking, and skiing activities. Each year the membership grows: from 1088 in 1960 to 2453 in 1972. Thanks in part to the increased a...
Peineta, Capicúa Pastor. In October, Dario Arancibia and I summited Peineta, the fourth Paine Tower, by a new route (Capicúa Pastor, 12 pitches, 500m, 5.9 A1+), making what seems to be the seventh climb of the spire. Our route ascends the west fac...
This is the twenty-sixth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and the thirteenth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada.Data from accidents not previously reported have been obtained, and the statistical tables ...
Mount Kinabalu, West Plateau, Victoria Peak, Southeast Face. Mount Kinabulu (4095m) in the Kinabalu National Park is the highest peak of Southeast Asia. Low’s Gully, as the name suggests, is a deep gully that runs from the top of Kinabalu for more...
On February 16, Christy McIntire (31) and Victor Lawson (37) were ice climbing in Lee Vining Canyon, just east of Tuolumne Meadows. They began their day of climbing on Main Wall, a popular area for ice climbers in the eastern Sierra. After toppi...
lorana I and Iorana II, first ascents. Andy Parkin and I made the first ascents of two peaks at the head of Sena Pia in the Cordillera Darwin, after a drop-off from the yacht lorana on March 6. We approached the peaks by crossing glaciers and clim...
Ultima ThuleA short walk through China ’s Kun Lun Shan by Mark Newcomb“Man, this place is vast and empty!” said Kent McBride as he, Hans Johnstone and I topped out on a ridge in the heart of the Kun Lun Shan mountains of northwestern China. We wer...
MARC EMERSON 1954–1970On September 27, 1970, Marc Emerson fell to his death while climbing on Castle Rock near Leavenworth, Washington, when his climbing rope slipped off the carabiner that was attached to his swami seat. Thus at the age of sixtee...