New Routes on Mount Waddington and Stiletto Peak. During two weeks in mid-August, a group assembled by Fred Beckey and consisting of him, Jerry Fuller, Don Liska and his wife Alice and me climbed in the Waddington region. We were flown to Ghost La...
P5280, Cordillera Raura. The mountain we climbed is 17,323 feet by triangulation, but my altimeter read only 17,015 feet. Arturo Soriano and I made the climb on Saturday, September 20, 1969 as part of a weekend that was cut short by bad weather co...
We cannot omit to mention a new record hung up under the guise of mountaineering. A young American imbued with the hurry and bustle of his native land climbed the Matterhorn, last summer, in 1 hour 50 minutes, from the Hörnli Hut and after a ten-m...
Mount Hunter’s Southeast RidgePaul Corwin, Dartmouth Mountaineering ClubWe jumped out of the plane and threw out our gear. Pilot Cliff Hudson wished us good luck and took off. A sobering but thrilling silence fell on us. At last we could begin!Whe...
Pik Troglav, Slovene Route. Tomas Jakofcic, Peter Meznar and Blaz Stres climbed the Slovene Route (ED VI 80°), a 1000-meter route on the north face of a subsidiary summit (5200 meters) of Pik Troglav. The lower part of the route followed a promine...
This is the eighteenth report of the Safety Committee and the fifth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. Data about accidents that occurred in 1963 but had not been previously reported have been included in the tabular material.The commi...
The Washington Pass Traverse. At the end of day two, August 25, Mark Allen and I had just completed three-fourths of a traverse that we’d talked about for three years, and we were about to bail and go home. Mark said he had to guide in Mazama the ...
SLIP ON SNOW Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn February 2, 1983, the four members of the Denali Winter Expedition, Robert Frank (38), Charles Sassara (26), Steve Teller (24), and Chris Hraback (27) flew to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. They p...
SLIP ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Palisade MountainOn August 19, two members of a week-long climbing camp based at the Great Cairn Hut were descending the north side of Palisade Mountain on intermittent snow sl...
An eleven-man expedition climbed in the Hindu Kush under the leadership of Andrzej Zawada. There were six Poles, four British and one American. They were divided into two groups. Group I climbed in the Mandaras valley, with Base Camp at 14,100 fee...
Birmingham South Greenland Expedition. Between May and September, the three members of the expedition Michael Kelly, Michael Rhodes and I, spent eleven weeks in the Tasermuit Fjord region of South Greenland. The fjord lies 75 miles northwest of Ka...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1988. For the third consecutive year, a new record was set for the number of mountaineers attempting to climb Mount McKinley. Mild weather and few major storms, combined with the increased ...
Fifty-Eighth Annual Report of the Safety Committees of The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of CanadaThis is the fifty-eighth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twenty-seventh issue in which The Alpine Club of Cana...
Christian Beckwith, Editor Advisory BoardJohn E. (Jed) Williamson, Managing Editor; Michael Kennedy, John W. Middendorf, IVAssociate Editors David Stevenson, Reviews Frederick O. Johnson, Club Activities Intern Derek Rubio TranslatorsMarina Heusch...
Annapurna, South Face Tragedy. Alex MacIntyre, René Ghilini and I climbed in the Annapurna Sanctuary in the post-monsoon season. Our main objective was a new route on Annapurna’s south face to the right of the Polish buttress. The expedition ended...
Peak 9,200'+. In mid-June Paul Claus landed Bill Chapman and me on the western end of the Nabesna Glacier at around 7,400 feet. We came to climb the peaks on the ridgeline between the Kluvesna and Nabesna glaciers. We climbed at night due to snow ...
Stanford Alpine Club. The SAC continues to place emphasis on climbing in Yosemite Valley during the school year. Instruction for beginners is coupled with a very active climbing program. The year saw over half a dozen members doing climbs of grade...
Climb to the Stone Age—VenezuelaRick RidgewayTHE WAY I CAME TO ORGANIZE a journey to the upper Orinoco—crossing the Casiquiare Canal, continuing up narrowing tributaries and finally hacking overland through an untracked and uninhabited jungle to a...
Mountain Climbing for Beginners, by Mike Banks. Edited for American readers by Andy Kauffmann, Stein and Day, 1978. Softback. 96 pages, 37 line drawings. Price $3.95.Here is a gem of a little book, the kind of climbing manual Americans have always...
Tausend Gipfel und noch mehr, by Karl Lukan. Salzburg/Stuttgart: Verlag Das Bergland-Buch, 1960. 275 pages, with 21 plate. Sw. Fr. 22.80. The author of three earlier successful mountaineering books, here relates entertaining adventures on many pea...