Peak 11,793, Twenty Lakes Wall. Above a magnificent unnamed lake east of Mount Roberts, this face lies to the north, an interesting wall but quite overshadowed by Roberts. Eric Bjørnstad made the first ascent on July 6, using a series of short wal...
The Great Couloir on EverestJames WickwireWITH THE DECISION of the People’s Republic of China in 1979 to open its autonomous regions, including Tibet, to non-Chinese mountaineers, new opportunities to climb Mount Everest were presented. A few mont...
Ten to RememberA thousand climbs couldn’t capture the richness of our last century.So here are 10 to get us started.While editing the stories that follow I had to start deleting the word “inspire”—it just came up too often. In fact, the I-word app...
Changwatang and Nalakankar, First Ascents, and Exploration of the Chandi, Nalakankar and Takphu Himal. We were granted climbing permission for Nalakankar, but ours was the first expedition to the peak since 1963. Why? In the revised Climbing Regul...
Climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. Netherlanders M.A. Bonhomme, M.A. Briet, K.E.J. Dijk, P. Dekker, R. Staaftjes, J.K. Richert, H. Tollenaar and A.C.A. van Helbergen climbed the south (higher) summit of Alpamayo by the north ridge and over the nor...
Ski traverse, five first and two second ascents. We should have been in Tibet. That’s what we’d planned. But after the riots in Lhasa, it was no surprise to find our permit withdrawn and, soon after, the borders closed. We realized that only Kyrgy...
MOHAMMAD AKRAM 1929-1959(It is appropriate to include this obituary since Captain Akram was being proposed for membership.—Editor.)When the 1958 American Karakoram Expedition requested the Pakistan Army to assign two mountaineers as members of the...
ERNANI FAÈ1911-1983Ernani Faè was born in May 1911 in Belluno, Italy. From Belluno, the beautiful capital of the Dolomites, it is easy to reach the valleys and famous peaks. Thus, Ernani Faè, as a teenager, started to climb together with friends. ...
Dhaulagiri. A very competent Swiss expedition of the Akademischer Alpen Club Zürich failed to reach the summit of Dhaulagiri (26,795 feet) in Nepal. The group under the leadership of Bernhard Lauterberg consisted of Dr. Ruedi Pfisterer, André Roch...
For Almaty (Kazakhstan) climbers, the Zailiskiy Alatau in the northern Tien Shan is our most accessible mountain range and the foundation of our mountaineering. Even though roads reach 3,000m, climbing routes can be long and difficult; they allow ...
1951-06USA1959-04CAN.2007USA2007CAN.TerrainRock437852875Snow230435532Ice2591587River1430Unknown22100Ascent or DescentAscent292658768Descent222737146Unknown249130OtherNB-700Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock346729055Slip on snow or ice99020720Fall...
West Tumwater Rock, Tumwater Canyon. This rock is located several miles west of Piton Tower, above the highway. Fred Beckey, Ed Cooper, and Don Claunch found some 40 feet of medium difficult tension climbing, in addition to some class 5 on the asc...
Sakar Sar, second ascent. Kunihiko Sato made a solo ascent of the 6,272m Sakar Sar via the southeast ridge. This remote peak, which lies on the Afghan border in the northern Batura Muztagh and is approached via the Chapursan and Sakarjerab Valleys...
Citizen of Two Worlds, by Mohammad Ata-Ullah, with a foreword by Lowell Thomas. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1960. 285 pages. Price $5.00.“Under the shadow of this grim mountain, East and West had not only met, but had fused into one.” So writ...
In the Bugaboo GroupEaton CromwellTHIS seldom-visited group is surely deserving of greater popularity. The climbing compares favorably with that of the minor European centers, and it is easy to reach; our camp being only a day and a half from Spil...
The North Face of Mount RobsonDan DavisWhen Pat Callis and I arrived at the Robson Coffee Shop on the morning of August 6, we were fortunate to have a beautifully clear view of the mountain, apparently the first for days, but we were disheartened ...
The Wall of ForgetfulnessLotus Flower Tower—Logan MountainsHarthon H. Bill“How sweet it were, hearing the downward streamWith half shut eyes ever to seemFalling asleep in a halfdream!To dream and dream like yonder amber lightWhich will not leave t...
NOEL EWART ODELL 1890–1987Striding up through the sun-scented evergreens toward Nanda Devi in 1936, I remember Odell exclaiming, “God! It’s good to be back.” It was twelve years since his great effort on Everest had been hailed by the mountaineeri...
Baintha Brakk, southeast ridge, attempt; Choktoi Spire, probable first ascent. In early June Paul McSorley and we arrived at a 4,400m base camp on the Choktoi Glacier, intent on climbing the southeast ridge of Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. The Ogre, 7,285...
AAC, Oregon Section. Jeff Alzner led the K2000 Expedition to the North Ridge of K2 in the summer. The climb was frustrated above 7350 meters by persistent bad weather and poor conditions. A succession of storms prevented the large team from making...