Baruntse Pre-Monsoon Ascent and Attempt. An expedition of 4 Swiss climbed Baruntse by the normal southeast ridge from the west. On May 4, leader Thomas Pfennninger, Hans Landolt, Fräulein Claudia Müller and Christoph Rothlisberger climbed to the s...

Denbor Brakk, Bloody Mary, mostly free ascent; Zang Brakk, Welcome to Crackistan. Seeking free-climbable routes in the rock spire wonderland of the Nangma Valley, we first examined the left side of Shingu Charpa’s east face, but when poor weather ...

Watkins Mountains, Various Ascents. It was reported that a French expedition organized jointly by Pierre Grossman and Dane Hans Christian Florian traveled to the Watkins Mountains with five objectives: to climb Gunnbj0rns Fjeld (3753 meters, the h...

The Accidental Adventurer: Memoirs of the First Woman to Climb Mt. McKinley. Barbara Washburn. Kenmore, Washington: Epicenter Press, 2001.192 pages, paperback. $19.95.Rising from the tundra of Alaska to over 20,000 feet in height, the Arctic summi...

Northern Apolobamba, Various Ascents. A German expedition from Forchheim, with Bolivian guide Aldo Riveros, made a number of first ascents in the northern Apolobamba in 1997. They established a base camp at 4600 meters on August 19 to the east of ...

Toqllaraju, West Face; Ranrapallca, North Face; Allpamayo, Southwest Face; and Other Peaks. After I had soloed Urus, Pat Ellinwood and I climbed the west face of Toqllaraju. The route was on 50° water-ice and névé for about 1200 feet, at which poi...

Bridge Mountain, Northwest Face, Desert Alpine, Previously Unreported. The name of the route, Desert Alpine (V 5.11 A1+, 18 pitches), doesn’t come, by any means, from the style that we climbed it in, but from the fact that it is, by Zion standards...

FALL ON ROCK, NUT FAILURENew Jersey, Yards CreekWe have begun receiving reports from this relatively new climbing area. In this instance, it was reported that a climber fell while leading. He was just short of the top when he slipped and his upper...

Kuti Dorkush, Batura Group. Irishmen Jack Bergin and Mairi Keenleyside climbed virgin Kuti Dorkush (c. 6000 meters). From Gilgit, they continued by jeep to Bar. Base Camp was near the junction of the Kukuar and Sat Marao Glaciers at 3200 meters. A...

California, San Gabriel Mountains, Mt. Baden-Powell. On February 19, Charles Brubaker (20), William Glass (20), Roy O’Brien (19), and Larry Sheets (17), set out to climb Mt. Baden-Powell (9399 ft.) The party planned to follow the summer trail. In ...

HIGH ALTITUDE CEREBRAL EDEMA (HACE)Alaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThe “Kiwi Denali” expedition included Richard Walshe, Andre Bell, Dave McKinley, and Pete O’Connor. On June 6 three of the members, including Walshe, Bell, and O’Connor, depar...

Gangotri I, Ascent. A Japanese team led by Yutaka Morizane climbed Gangotri I (6672 m) in the Gangotri area twice via the northeast ridge: On September 30, Daisuke Naromi summitted with Rie Nishimoto, and on October 1, Yatuka Morizane reached the ...

Bear’s Tooth, East Face Attempt. Doug Klewin and I on June 15 attempted the east face of the Bear’s Tooth, the peak adjacent to the Moose’s Tooth and south of it in the intimidating cirque of the Buckskin Glacier. We climbed three pitches up the l...

FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainA party of four rock-climbing instructors from the Vernon Army Cadet Camp, who were training in Banff, were climbing a rock buttress above the Banff Army Cadet Camp on June 26, 19...

Castle Peak, Left Side of North Face. The north face of Castle Peak features six distinct granitic buttresses. Our climb ascended the last buttress on the left side of the face. On September 12, Sue Harrington and I climbed two pitches of slabs to...

Mt. McClellan, Granite Mountain, and Pernod Spire, various new routes. On the east face of Mt. McClellan, in the Enchantments near Leavenworth, Rolf Larson and I climbed a new route in July. The Madcap Laughs (IV 5.10+ C1) starts with four pitches...

Dhampus. Eight members of a French commercial expedition, including the leader Jean Coudray and a 60-year-old member, on October 26 climbed Dhampus via the west ridge from a camp at 16,400 feet.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

Jichu Drake Attempt and Sepchu Kang. Our women’s expedition went as the first mountaineering expedition to Bhutan on April 16. We had intended to climb the east ridge of Jichu Drake (previously incorrectly identified* as Tsherim Kang). We set out ...

Kalu and Spiti. An. English party of J. G. G. Stephenson, D. T. Osselton, J. M. Stopford, and J. P. O’F. Lynam climbed and explored in Kalu and Spiti during the summer of 1958. No details of what they did are available.

Mount Everest, Attempt. Our expedition, “Comarques de Girona-Everest 1996,” was composed of seven members, all of them from Girona (Catalonia, Spain): Anna Agusti, Quico Campos, Jordi Tosas, Francesc Maso, Carles Figueras, Salvador Coll and Joan C...