K2, Ascents by Germans, a Kirghiz, an Australian and Swedes and Deaths on the Descent. The Northlight Expedition was led by German Reinmar Joswig and further composed of Germans Peter Mezger and Ernst Eberhardt, Kirghiz Anatoli Bukreev and Austral...
Classification of High Altitude Retinal Hemorrhage (HARH)Method of Reporting Findings and Request for Collection of Data on High Altitude Retinal Hemorrhage. Dr. Michael Wiedman, Harvard Medical School, 243 Charles Street, Boston, Massachusetts 02...
DORA KEEN HANDY 1871–1963Mrs. Handy died January 31, 1963, in Hong Kong on a journey around the world, active to the end and doing just what she wanted to. Only a year before she had told a friend that when her time came she would want it that way...
Mr. James Taylor Van Rensselaer, who, among many other climbs, made the third ascent of the Petit Dru in 1884 (A. C. Register iii, 246; A. A. J. ii, 509), a resident of California since 1890, has presented to the American Alpine Club his insignia ...
FALL ON SNOW – SKI MOUNTAINEERING, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, Middle Teton, Ellingwood CouloirAt 0140 July 2, Ryan Redmond (32), Ben Johnson, Rob Backlund, and Kevin Salys departed the Lupine Meadows trailhead intending to climb and then ski th...
Kilbuck Mountains, Western Alaska. During the course of an 18-day kayak trip on the Tikchik Lakes in July, my wife Sharon and I caught glimpses of an intriguing range of mountains, one which, it is safe to say, no mountaineer has yet explored. Les...
Daxue Shan, exploration. After his travels in southeast Tibet, Tamotsu Nakamura traveled to the Daxue Shan to inspect an unclimbed 6,000er south of the Minya Konka Range. On the way he photographed the Lamo-she massif southeast of Kangding (Lamo-S...
Denali, Butte Direct. On April 18, Jim Blow and I took Hudson Air to Kantishna and traveled 40 miles to the base of our climb at the end of the West Fork of the Tralieka Glacier. Earlier in the year we had Will Foresberg dogsled most of our heavy ...
TABLE III1951–93USA1959–93CAN.1994USA1994CAN.TerrainRock314136711217Snow1910286417Ice1677751River12300Unknown22600Ascent or DescentAscent284939510815Descent1740265499Unknown245211Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock20601958710Slip on snow or ice703...
The West Face-EI CapitanRoyal RobbinsTHE west face is the plain Jane sister of the Salathé Wall of El Capitan. It would be more distinguished were it not adjacent to one of the most sweeping and magnificent rock walls in the world, flanked as that...
Foraker—Denali’s Neglected WifeDonald J. GoodmanMount Foraker is a formidable mountain, and the route followed looked to be the only practical one. Its average standard is at least as high as that of a first-class alpine peak, and some of the pass...
AAC, Oregon Section. Many of our members achieved noteworthy goals or honors this past year. John Harlin III was appointed Editor of the American Alpine Journal. Jill Kellog was elected President of Cascades Mountaineers. Bob Speik organized Tradi...
Caullaraju Group and Santa Cruz, South Face and Southwest Ridge. Our expedition from the Tegernsee Section of the DAV was in the Cordillera Blanca from July 18 to September 14. We were Sepp and Hans Gloggner, Fritz Niedermaier, Alfred Müller, Walt...
Far East Nepal is best known for being crowned by the Kanchenjunga massif. Between there and Makalu the Himalayan crest makes an uncommon drop in altitude. Perhaps that is why climbers have not given peaks west of the Ghunsa Valley much attention....
Colorado Climbs. Carl Harrison and Scott Kimball climbed several new routes on Lumpy Ridge early in 1980. On Sundance they climbed a four-pitch route that follows the left-edge of the Dalke-Covington Flake; they named it Jetstream (F9) after its c...
Yale Mountaineering Club. During the active year of 1966, summer found members scattered widely in various climbing areas, including Chamonix, Wales, the Selkirks, Yosemite Valley and the Sierra Nevada, the Tetons, and at Seneca Rock, West Virgini...
Avalanche Handbook. David McClung and Peter Shaerer. Second Edition. TheMountaineers, Seattle, Washington, 1993. 272 pages, photos and drawings.Soft cover. $19.95.“I only hope that the snowpacks will understand that I have read these chapters and ...
Teepe’s Pillar, Teton Range, First AscentMessrs. K. A. Henderson and R. L. M. Underhill made the first ascent of this peak on July 18th, 1930. Leaving camp at Amphitheatre Lake at 5.30 a.m., the usual route to the Teton glacier was followed and th...
Nihon University Greenland Crossing Expedition and Mount Forel. Kinju Ikeda, leader, Tsugio Satsukime, Hiroshi Sagano and Tadashi Tawata were the crossing party. Training dogs and in support were Takayashi Oguri, Shoji Sugahara, Hiroshi Nagashima,...
Everest statistics and records in the spring season. The number of teams on Everest during the spring was 94. These ranged in size from one member with no Sherpa helpers to 29 members and 22 Sherpas. Perhaps surprisingly, the number of expeditions...