Langtang Lirung, Swiss-West German and British-lrish Ascents. There were two successful expeditions on Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 23,734 feet), both by the southeast ridge. On November 10, Swiss Markus Baumann, Frau Dorothee Landolt, Martin Loc...
Les Courtes—Face NordYvon Chouinard“IN France we say that the third time is always lucky.” So we were greeted by the guardien of the Argentière refuge in the Mont Blanc massif. Layton Kor and I had been here two other times in futile attempts to d...
Everest 82. Moscow 1984. 360 pages, 162 pages of illustrations in color. Not priced.This account of the highly successful Soviet expedition to Everest describes the climb and some of the scientific data obtained. Eleven climbers reached the summit...
Longs Peak, East Face. On 5 July 1952, your correspondent, in company with his brother, Hassler Whitney, and Robert W. Craig, stumbled onto what proved to be a new route on the much studied East Face of Longs Peak. Approaching the foot of this imp...
Introduction to Mountaineering, by Showell Styles. 159 pages, 8 plates, 17 figures, glossary of climbing terms, bibliography, and 2 appendices. London, Seeley Service and Co. Ltd., 1954. Price 15 s.The novice mountaineer must certainly learn techn...
Abinger Afghanistan Expedition 1960. Early in 1959 permission was sought from the Afghan Government for an all-women expedition to travel in Wakhan and climb some peaks of the Pamirs from the south. This was refused but an alternative suggestion o...
Fall of the Phantom Lord: Climbing and the Face of Fear. Andrew Todhunter. Anchor Books/Doubleday: New York, 1998. 272 pages. $23.95.What is it about risk-taking behavior that endlessly fascinates the human mind? And why is it that so-called “extr...
Mount Foraker’s South RidgeWarren Bleser and Alex BertulisTWO close calls with horrendous rock avalanches at the base of the 8000-foot south wall of Mount Foraker (17,400 feet) led to the unanimous decision to concentrate our efforts on the virgin...
Mount Hayes, Southwest Face of the South Summit. Fred Beckey, Benno Ochenski, Dougal McCarty and I were the second group flown this summer by Wilson Air Service to the middle fork of the Susitna Glacier. At 7000 feet, it was an ideal location belo...
Himalchuli. An Italian expedition led by Dr. Annibalo Bonicelli failed to climb Himalchuli (25,895 feet) by the Japanese route of 1959, the northeast face. On the morning of May 8 at Camp VI at 23,525 feet, Mario Dottu fell whilst he was clipping ...
Ascents in the Cathedral Spires, AlaskaAlvin DeMaria and Peter GeiserIt sometimes happens in life that a practical joke leads to practical results; this article is the brief account of such an occurrence.In the June, 1962 issue of Summit magazine ...
Dhaulagiri IV. The Kamoshika Dojin party was led by Kazuyuki Takashashi and had 11 other members including one woman. They set up Base Camp in the Myagdi Khola at 11,325 feet on September 1. The first step was to climb as far as Myagdi Matha (20,5...
This, the tenth report of the Safety Committee, records the accidents which occurred in 1956 and have been reported to the Committee. In addition there are a number of accidents which occurred in 1955 whose reports came in too late to be included ...
BAD WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, AND AVALANCHE CONDITIONS—Oregon, Mt. Hood. Gary Schneider (16) of Weston, and Randy Knapp (19) and Matt Meacham (16) both of Walla Walla, Washington, who survived 17 days in snowcaves on Mt. Hood, came within 20 f...
Gasherbrum IV’s Northwest RidgeGreg ChildON MOST EXPEDITIONS, you are invited along, agree to go, often without knowing much about the peak, get swept along in the choas of organization, travel and penury, then arrive at the mountain. Only then do...
Maoist encounters fall season commentary. There were encounters by two expeditions, one in the Kangchenjunga area in far eastern Nepal and the other in the west on their way to Putha Hiunchuli, which is sometimes called Dhaulagiri VII. These teams...
Mount McKinley, New Route Variant on the Southwest Flank. Bernhard Ehmann and I climbed the prominent snow and ice rib which rises from the northeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier three miles from its junction with the main glacier. The rib ascen...
Cho Oyu, First 8000er by Spanish Women. Society in any country is composed of men and women and I believe we have equal responsibilities. In my country, Spain, few women participate in high-altitude climbing; I felt I should do something about it....
Canada: As of publication date, data and narratives from Canada were not available for this year’s report.United States: This issue marks a half century of the Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club. The Club constituted a Safe...
Four Against the KangshungEd WebsterFOR TEN MINUTES, no one spoke. We stared instead at the mountain flank before us, transfixed, unsure, agonizing. So this is what we had traveled halfway around the world to climb? The east face of Everest gliste...