Fitz Roy. There was conflicting information on page 585 of A.A.J., 1978. At the top of the page we reported incorrectly that an Italian expedition had climbed the north buttress of Fitz Roy. Lower on the same page Vojslav Arko correctly stated tha...
Condoriri Group, Various Activity. Slovenes David Podgorelec and Aleš Kovac from the Kozjak Maribor Mountaineering Club spent a week at Condoriri in 1997. On June 28, they attempted Aguja Negra (5280m) and got to the breche on the eastern arête, w...
Torre Egger, Southwest Face. During February and March Italians Bruno Di Dora and Giuliano Giongio climbed the southwest face of Torre Egger. The face was objectively very dangerous because of falling ice and rockfall. The route had previously bee...
Hanuman Tibba and other Peaks, Kulu. The Jochi University expedition was led by Ryujiro Kanda and composed of Daikichi Nakamura, Kuniki Takeda, Koji Ishioka and Yoshihiko Iwasa. After leaving Manali on August 17, they crossed the Solang Pass on Au...
Broad Peak, Attempts and Tragedy. A number of climbers were reported to have reached Broad Peak’s foresummit this year, including Anatoli Boukreev, in 36 hours return from base camp, Ed Viesturs, Vekka Gustafsson (Finland), and an unspecified numb...
Cayesh and Chacraraju Ascents and Tragedy. From May 30 to June 2 Czechoslovaks Bretislav Husicka and Petr Hapala made an alpine-style new route of extreme difficulty on the right side of the west face of Cayesh. The climb was on ice and mixed terr...
The Andean Expedition of the Bavarian Friends of Nature (Naturfreunde) consisted of Herbert Ziegenhardt, Josef Knott, Dr. Ekkehart Otto, Peter Borutzki, Hans Bichlmeier, Peter Schleyer, Manfred Zimmer and me as leader. We were away from Germany fr...
Southern Summer in the Fitz Roy-Cerro Torre Region, 1988-9. Until now (January 26, 1989), there has been little news except for the accidents which have occurred. On November 4, a rubber boat capsized in the Río de las Vueltas below the Madsen ran...
Dhaulagiri South Face Attempt. Our 16-member team had 12 Poles, two Canadians and a Pole from both France and Australia. Our objective was the 4000-meter-high south face of Dhaulagiri. We established Base Camp at 3800 meters on September 16 and Ad...
Everest, New Zealand International Ascent. Our expedition was composed of New Zealanders Gary Ball, Peter Hillary and I as leader, Swedes Mickael Reuterswärd, Oscar Khilborg and Johan Lagne, Belgian Rudy Van Snik, American Karen Fellerhoff, Canadi...
Agrada, east face, Mirror for the Hero. In August our team established a new route on the 2,340m Agrada, Barguzinsky Ridge, Ulzykha River Canyon. Mirror for the Hero (566m, 6B) ascends the center of the east face. The route opened in a corner with...
The Brenva Face of Mt. Blanc in 1933The good condition of the ice climbs during most of the 1933 campaign made this climb rather popular. On July 25th the writer left Courmayeur in the afternoon with Evaristo Croux to spend the night at the Pavili...
Everest Super Couloir Attempt. Robert Anderson, Harry Kent, Chris Reveley, Jay Smith, Paul Teare and I as leader failed in our alpine-style bid on Everest’s Super Couloir (Japanese-Hombein Couloirs). To our great disappointment, the window of favo...
Nanga Parbat Attempt via the Mazeno Ridge. The west ridge of Nanga Parbat is about eight miles long from the Mazeno Pass. It is the longest ridge of any of the 8000ers and remains unclimbed. Although Nanga Parbat is very popular, there has been su...
Mount Deborah, West Face. During late April and May of 1980 Charlie Sassara, Robert Frank and I attempted Mount Deborah’s northwest ridge. After reaching 10,000 feet, we were turned back by extremely sugary snow on a knife-edge. It was during the ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Mount OlympusOn June 29, Michael Fox and two companions were hiking in the North Fork, below Mount Olympus. Along the way, they encountered a rock buttress that Michael decided t...
Medicine for Mountaineering. Edited by James A. Wilkerson, M.D. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington, 1992. 416 pages, line drawings. $16.95.It is unusual for the layman to find books on how to recognize and manage medical problems, let alone boo...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, ThatchtopOn November 6, at 1300, Chris Chierello (29) was leading the Snake Route (I, WI4) on Thatchtop North Face, and was belayed by Mark Keating (21). Chi...
Western Kokshaal-Too, first ascent of “Tombstone Tower.” Fermented horse milk is a delicacy not to be missed. Especially if accompanied by freshly beheaded, blood-boiled lamb, goat yogurt, and yak butter on homemade fry-bread. The boiled goat head...
JarjinjaboNew routes, old worlds; and other epiphanies from the Tibetan borderlands.Edited by Peter AthansIt felt like jumping off the edge of the world. Where China’s Sichuan Province and Tibet meet in the Tibetan Borderlands, the ranges appear w...